Featured Restaurant: Le Gigot
GutterGourmet — August 30, 2010
Gigot d’Agneau aux Flageolet and Crème Brûlée at Le Gigot.
Enter Le Gigot. Içi Paris. The only things missing are the French accordion music and the mimes. Pick one of the 10 tiny bistro tables and you’ve abandoned Cornelia Street for the Left Bank
Featured Cocktail: The Highlands’ Blackberry Tartan
Maryse Chevrière — August 26, 2010
The Blackberry Tartan at The Highlands.
By now, scotch fiends have found a home in West Village gastropub, The Highlands. There’s a serious selection of malts and scotches for the straight up drinker, and a menu of carefully-crafted cocktails too. In the latter category is the Blackberry Tartan, an ideal summer-switch-to-fall concoction.
It’s late August now, September is creeping in, and you’re in a weird place— you want to hold on to the fruits of summer, but you are primed to dive in to the bounty of the new season. The Blackberry Tartan ($13) solves this dilemma, offering the tart berry in combination with maple syrup, Appleton Estate Rum Reserve, and anCnoc 12 year scotch.
The Tartan is frothy on the top and viscous throughout with real body from the fruit pulp. Maple syrup adds to the cocktail’s steady hint of sweetness—never overwhelming—well-matched against the scotch, which maintains its identity. You finish faster than you expect and think, “I want to try more of what this place has to offer.” Mission accomplished.
Featured Dish: Kesté’s Insalata Pizza Sandwich
Arthur Bovino — August 11, 2010
A quarter cross-section of Kesté‘s Pizza & Vino’s Pizza insalata.
Last June, when Grub Street reported on the pizza wallet at Kesté Pizza & Vino, aka the Portfolio, we took note with excitement— the Neapolitan pie goes portable! But we measured the ‘Neapolitan’ equivalent of New York’s street slice against the original with mixed results. While they tasted good, wallets made with regular Kesté pies (they wouldn’t make minis), with toppings and without, eaten crust or tip first, either burst open or devolved into a mess of bread and cheese. Whether you were sitting or walking, it was a fail. A new innovation at Kesté, the Pizza Sandwich, had more promise.
Featured Dessert: For the Love of Salted Caramel
Arthur Bovino — August 10, 2010
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Sundae: Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Candied Popcorn, Whipped Crème Fraiche & Chocolate Sauce at ABC Kitchen.
It’s not news that Salted Caramel is taking over the world. But the path to world domination must go straight through New York. There’s currently a trio of salted caramel high-flyers for the City’s dessert-lovers to check off their lists. Take the salted caramel quiz:
- Have you had Shake Shack’s Salted Caramel Custard? Yes? Good.
- How about Cake and Shake’s Salted Caramel Shake? Yes? Excellent.
- Lastly, the Salted Caramel Sundae at ABC Kitchen. Yes? Wow. You’re good, and excused.
Everyone else, read on…
Featured Brunch: Joseph Leonard
Maryse Chevrière — July 30, 2010
Saucisson a L’Ail: Pork and Garlic Sausage, Fried Eggs, Hash Brown, Crème Fraîche and Arugula.
That on a recent Sunday three dishes had been 86’d from the brunch menu at Joseph Leonard (including the day’s special), says something about the restaurant’s weekend dining program: it’s popular.
But removing the Biscuits and Gravy, Croque Madame, and the Watermelon Salad, while disappointing, still leaves several tempting options. You can stick with the familiar— Lox on Rye, Brioche French Toast— or lean towards the more creative— Beef Tongue Corned Beef, Saucisson a L’Ail. The latter ($13) presents sausage and eggs perhaps not as you expected. The pork and garlic sausage is loose and terrine-like, delicately sliced and held together by a ghost casing. With it are two fried eggs and a fat nest of a hash brown with a super crunchy shell.
Featured Cocktail: Anfora’s Cucato
Maryse Chevrière — July 15, 2010
The Cucato cocktail at Anfora.
“What do you think?” asked the bartender at Anfora about their Cucato cocktail.
“Don’t take this the wrong way,” you’ll want to answer, “but it kind of tastes like salad.”
It’s true, and a very good salad at that. Made with organic tomato and cucumber vodkas, lemon, and finished with a salt and pepper rim, the drink ($12) belongs in the same league as ilili’s Not So Bloody Martini and Prune’s Ghost of Mary. It’s exactly the refreshing option a savory cocktail drinker looks for on a muggy summer evening. The key is the cracked pepper on the rim— not a move you see all that often, but it works, and you’ll seek them out as you rotate around the glass with each sip.
With it there are also several above-par bar snacks to be had, this is, after all, the sister establishment of nearby dell’anima. A large board of loosely-folded speck, a fantastic Lamb Ragu slider, and another large board featuring soft Robiola with its proper accompaniments. You could easily make an enjoyable meal out of it. If the restaurant is too crowded you should.
Featured Brunch: Yerba Buena Perry
Maryse Chevrière — May 28, 2010
Sandwich Cubano at Yerba Buena Perry.
The brunch menu at Julian Medina’s Yerba Buena Perry presents you with that problem-you-want-to-have situation of too many good-sounding dishes to chose from. On it you’ll find brunch staples tweaked with Latin flavors— Cachapa Benedict with Serrano Ham over a Sweet Corn Cake, French Toast with Manchego Dulce de Leche. But, there are also familiar classics like Churros, Huevos Rancheros, and a Cuban Sandwich. The solution? Arrive hungry and over-order.
Featured Dessert: Get Your Pop On
Maryse Chevrière — May 25, 2010
From left: Rhubarb-Jasmine Popsicle from People’s Pops, and an Almond Popsicle with Dark Chocolate and Chopped Hazelnuts from Popbar.
Two new concepts are giving reason to ditch the cup and cone, and go for the stick when weighing your options of where to get a frozen treat this summer. With the recent openings of People’s Pops in Chelsea Market and Popbar in the West Village, it looks as though the popsicle is making a comeback.
People’s Pops, which launched at the Brooklyn Flea back in April, impressed from the beginning with their syrup-drenched, made-to-order shaved ices. They’re still on the menu at the new Chelsea Market stand, along with a weekly rotating popsicle menu. A recently sampled Rhubarb-Jasmine ($3.50) variety was boldly tart and super juicy, with soft chunks of fresh rhubarb throughout.
Whereas the creativity at People’s Pops comes from the unique flavor pairings, at Popbar, the creative wheel is put in your hands with their toppings station. For example, customize an almond-flavored popsicle with chopped hazelnuts and a half-dip of dark chocolate ($5.50) for a Klondike-esque effect. Careful though, these pops melt fast.
Featured Restaurant: Bobo
Maryse Chevrière — May 24, 2010
Duck Breast with Date Purée, Hazelnuts, Parsnip, and Chorizo at Bobo in the West Village.
It’s about that time of year— that time when al fresco dining is the only option you want to consider.
Sunny and warm, but not yet unbearable, you want to relish a table outside with good food, cocktails and friends. During a recent invitation to dine in the West Village at Bobo, this was the scenario presented on its trellised, ivy-lined patio. It has to count among New York’s best, if not most charming, outdoor dining experiences in the City.
Always Informed: Meat Pies at Myers of Keswick
GutterGourmet — May 11, 2010
A selection of meat pies from Myers of Keswick.
The New York Post’s recent meat pie round-up overlooked one indomitable bit of the British Empire left in the West Village, Myers of Keswick. Since 1985, it has been one of the City’s best spots for meat pies— the place to amble in when you’re feeling peckish for something scrummy.
There is the comforting Cornish Pastie, with beef, potatoes and peas in a flaky pastry crescent reminiscent of an empanada. Want a proper curry? Try the Curried Lamb— like an Indian samosa, but still very British. And of course, one of the all-time favorites, the Pork Pie ($3.25). A hand crimped lard pie dough covers the steaming fatty minced pork meat encapsulated in the wonderful jelly produced by boiling pigs’ trotters. The Pork Pie with Port and Stilton Topping ($2.75) is a great spin on this, with some funk that’s not to be trifled with.
More Photographs of Myers of Keswick's Meat Pies >>
Featured Brunch: Cabrito
Maryse Chevrière — May 07, 2010
Biscuits and Gravy for brunch at Cabrito.
You’ve been to Cabrito for the eponymous dish, downed a Border Dog during one of its football parties last October, maybe you were even lucky enough to taste the Pata de Cerdo special. But if you haven’t been to Cabrito for brunch you’re missing out on yet another reason to be a fan.
The ever-crowded West Village spot fills up just as quickly on the weekend, but go on a Saturday around 12:00pm when they open and you won’t have a problem finding a seat. Choosing from the many tempting entrées, however, may prove more difficult.
Featured Dessert: Il Cantuccio’s Pancioc
Maryse Chevrière — May 04, 2010
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Clockwise from top: Pancioc, and Espresso from Il Cantuccio in the West Village.
Walk into the just-opened West Village outpost of Italian bakery, Il Cantuccio, for a coffee and something sweet, and your choice is simple. Obvious, really.
The heralded, namesake cantucci, of course. Small, golden biscotti studded with chunks of chocolate, almonds, and sweet fig that beckon to you from the moment you step inside. Then an Italian gentleman who was on line in front of you walks past with some sort of speckled sweet roll— is that chocolate? Yes, and this treat is called Pancioc.
Featured Brunch: Braeburn
Maryse Chevrière — April 30, 2010
Clockwise from top: Braeburn’s Chicken Fried Steak with Eggs, Gravy and Biscuit. Perry Street Punch.
It’s Sunday, you’re in the West Village looking for a nice neighborhood spot for brunch. Ideally, someplace relaxed, home-style— no reservations required. You’re with a group of your best girlfriends? They can join a few tables together. With kids? Not a problem. Such is the welcoming, laid-back vibe of brunch at Braeburn, chef Brian Bistrong’s contemporary American bistro.
Several options sound compelling: Lobster Knuckle Sandwich, Bourbon French Toast, Grilled Cheddar Sandwich and Tomato Soup. Order the Perry Street Punch to drink as you consider the menu. Made with light and dark rums, and homemade punch, it’s more interesting than your standard Mimosa or Bloody Mary— stronger too. Just make sure to mix it up.
AlwaysInformed: Pearl Beyond the Lobster Roll
Arthur Bovino — April 27, 2010
Fried Oyster Roll With Tartar Sauce and Shoestring Fries .
Luke’s, the Red Hook Lobster Pound, Mary’s, Ed’s. Lobster Rolls are everywhere. If a few more show up, they may have a shot at becoming a New York icon. The one that started it all, of course, is at Pearl Oyster Bar. But as good as the roll is, Pearl has other menu items that deserve celebration.
Full disclosure, in 2006, fresh out of culinary school, I manned Pearl’s garde manger station for six months. Salads, oysters, tartar sauce, sundaes, these were my purview. Don’t misunderstand. I miss the daily proximity to Pearl’s roll, but these days, the dishes I crave reach beyond lobster and mayonnaise.
Everyone knows that Pearl makes great fried oysters. They’re plump and crunchy, served on top of dollops of creamy, cornichon, caper, and red onion tartar sauce in cleaned oyster shells. But the fried oysters are also great served in the same butter-toasted, top-loading hot dog buns used for the lobster roll. This lesser-known sandwich is a great lunch-time special.
Featured Brunch: Perry St
Arthur Bovino — April 23, 2010
Crispy Poached Eggs with Caviar and Crème Fraîche.
The minimalist decor might not make Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Perry St the first place you’d think of for Sunday brunch. But the airy room surrounded by trees on one side, the parkway on the other gives the feeling you’re away from Manhattan— even as yellow cabs pass quietly by. Then the crowd starts to show.
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