FirstLook: SHO Shaun Hergatt

The Gluttoness — June 08, 2009

It’s rare that I’m speechless, but last Thursday night’s preview dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt stunned me into my first satisfied oblivion of 2009. Executive Chef Sean Hergatt has spent two years turning the concrete canvas within The Setai New York into a modern Asian masterpiece with simple elegance and ruby red accents. An expansive glass wall separates diners from the theatrics of the grand kitchen and many of the tables face Hergatt’s “stage” where he commands his dutiful “players.” You witness meticulousness then taste it.

The striking décor is matched by the drama of SHO’s impeccable food, which the chef described as “Asian-accented, modern French cuisine.” Hergatt is a brawny Australian with a sweet smile—the unexpected artist behind brilliantly feminine dishes that are as artistically inclined as they are sophisticated in flavor. There’s a continual dance between delicacy and decadence. Riveting taste always wins, but it’s the manner in which it’s achieved that is so interesting.

 

Duo of Canapes: Crêpe w/ Tobiko & Sour Cream over Lime & Sesame Seed Tuille w/ Whitefish Tartare

Two velvety crêpes were filled with tobiko and sour cream, then tied in purses, served over thin slices of lime and topped with gold leaf. Two sesame seed tuilles were rolled like cigars and stuffed with whitefish tartare. There was an impressive equilibrium between the rich insides and the subtle exteriors.

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What’s in a Name?: Apiary

The Gluttoness — February 01, 2009

Just as parents set out to find the perfect name for their newborn, chefs and restaurant owners alike are always searching for the perfect title for their restaurants. Some people go for the obvious, like a relative’s name or a favorite ingredient, but often times there is more to a moniker than meets the eye.

Last year, Moss, the over-the-top but amazing furniture store on Houston, opened Centovini. Now, one of their competitors, Ligne Roset, is getting in on the restaurant action with Apiary.

The moniker Apiary stems from the owners’ penchant for bees and their passion for honey. An apiary is the place where bees are kept to produce honey. The owners hope that the restaurant will have a similar effect; becoming a sanctuary for diners to gather over food and enjoy the sweeter things in life. Keeping in theme, new Chef Scott Bryan, formerly of Veritas, has woven the inspirational ingredient into a number of the desserts, including the Goat Cheesecake with Lavender Honey, Strawberry Crepes with Honey Ice Cream, and a Cheese Plate accompanied with Artisinal Honey.