AlwaysInformed: Burger Poppin’
The Gluttoness — August 17, 2009
Champagne bottles from the ‘Quarter’ to the ‘Balthazar’ (courtesy nicks.com.au) & burger counterparts.
A recent nightclub outing brought us face-to-face with the Methuselah, an awesome and incredibly heavy bottle of champagne, equivalent to eight ordinary bottles. Bottles larger than magnums are generally filled with champagne that has been fermented in standard bottles or magnums, and are named after biblical figures. In terms of these epically-sized bottles, the Methuselah, a biblical patriarch said to have lived to the age of 969, only ranks as the seventh largest.
It’s difficult to pinpoint the exact reason why champagne bottles are named thusly. There is speculation that the names were selected “to evoke importance and even a certain extravagance.” One site, uncork.biz, claims the earliest recorded use of these names is 1725 when Bordeaux winemakers were using the name Jeroboam for the four-bottle size, “It’s presumed they selected Jeroboam, the biblical founder of Israel…because he is referred to as ‘a man of great worth.’” There are larger sizes: Melchior (24 bottles), Solomon (33 bottles), Primat (36 bottles), and the Melchizedek (40 bottles), but as you might imagine, seeing one of these is a pretty rare occasion.
In order to best comprehend the disparity between the smallest bottle, the ‘Quarter,’ and the granddaddy, the Nebuchadnezzar (a 20 bottle monster, not pictured above), we thought it best to relate the increase in bottle sizes to one of the things AlwaysHungryNY.com knows best: burgers. In this case, as with the bottles of champagne, the larger and more extravagant the hamburger, the higher the price-tag The beef and bun Nebuchadnezzar is as monumental and seldom-ordered as its bubbly brother.
FirstLook: SHO Shaun Hergatt
The Gluttoness — June 08, 2009
It’s rare that I’m speechless, but last Thursday night’s preview dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt stunned me into my first satisfied oblivion of 2009. Executive Chef Sean Hergatt has spent two years turning the concrete canvas within The Setai New York into a modern Asian masterpiece with simple elegance and ruby red accents. An expansive glass wall separates diners from the theatrics of the grand kitchen and many of the tables face Hergatt’s “stage” where he commands his dutiful “players.” You witness meticulousness then taste it.
The striking décor is matched by the drama of SHO’s impeccable food, which the chef described as “Asian-accented, modern French cuisine.” Hergatt is a brawny Australian with a sweet smile—the unexpected artist behind brilliantly feminine dishes that are as artistically inclined as they are sophisticated in flavor. There’s a continual dance between delicacy and decadence. Riveting taste always wins, but it’s the manner in which it’s achieved that is so interesting.
Duo of Canapes: Crêpe w/ Tobiko & Sour Cream over Lime & Sesame Seed Tuille w/ Whitefish Tartare
Two velvety crêpes were filled with tobiko and sour cream, then tied in purses, served over thin slices of lime and topped with gold leaf. Two sesame seed tuilles were rolled like cigars and stuffed with whitefish tartare. There was an impressive equilibrium between the rich insides and the subtle exteriors.
Click here for AlwaysHungry's full First Look at Sho Shaun Hergatt >>
AlwaysLearning: Velouté
The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009
During a recent, fantastic meal at an ‘underground restaurant’ named The Cardinal Club, our hosts Simon and Paula, prepared a Sunchoke Velouté with Leeks and Paddlefish Caviar (right). The dish was served as a soup and its execution was as textbook and delightful as you’d expect at a fine French restaurant. It inspired a discussion that led to an investigation of Velouté, and we thought we would share some of what we learned.
What It Is: Velouté is one of the four original French mother sauces (the other three are Allemande, Béchamel, and Espagnole) as designated by Antonin Carême, an early practitioner and champion of haute cuisine in the 19th century.
How It’s Made: A proper velouté (French for ‘velvet’ or ‘velvety’) starts with a light stock (veal, chicken or fish) made with unroasted bones. It is thickened with a blond roux (equal parts flour and butter cooked until a pale paste is formed) to make a light-hued sauce with a velvety texture, thus the name.
Where to Eat It: Considering that velouté is a classic French sauce, it’s no surprise that you can find renditions of it at some of the city’s finest French restaurants. Daniel plates a Frog Leg and Watercress Velouté with Truffled Mousseline, Black Garlic and Chervil. Café Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s other restaurant, currently serves two dishes that use the sauce: Prince Edward Island Mussel Velouté with Green Curry, Fava Beans and Baby Cauliflower; and Vidalia Onion Velouté with Spring Garlic, Crispy Frog Legs and Parsley. Gordon Ramsay’s, eponymous restaurant makes a Ravioli of Quail, Preserved Walnuts, Mushroom Velouté and Celeriac.
AlwaysPartying: Fiamma Las Vegas Preview
The Hungry Goat — March 26, 2009
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The New York dining scene may have lost Fiamma and the much-praised cuisine of Chef Fabio Trabocchi to the economic climate, but Steve Hanson wants us to know that the chips are still rolling in to Fiamma at the MGM Grand in Las Vegas. Executive Chef Carlos Buscaglia was in town yesterday to whet the media’s appetite with a preview of the restaurant’s upcoming spring menu. Held at the former Fiamma location on Spring Street, which now operates as a B.R. Guest event space, Chef Buscaglia impressed with a host of delectable, beautifully-presented tastes. Most impressive were the signature handmade gnocchi with Maine lobster and black truffle crema, a luscious foie gras mousse drizzled with honey, and a perfectly seared diver scallop over fava bean purée.
Always Traveling: Paul Bocuse (Lyon, France)
Jeff Zalaznick — March 09, 2009
Paul Bocuse is not the easiest restaurant to find, but once you get it in your sights there is no way to miss this garish edifice. Bocuse has consistently maintained a prestigious 3-star Michelin rating since it opened in 1965, and as one of the first prominent public culinary icons, this chef’s legendary restaurant seemed like a logical starting point for our journey.
Restaurant: Paul Bocuse
Rating: *** (Michelin), #71 (World’s Best Restaurants List)
AlwaysHungry Grade: B-
Signature Dishes: Soupe aux Truffes Noires V.G.E (Black Truffle Soup), Volaille de Bresse en Vessie “Mére Fillioux” (Bresse Chicken cooked inside a Pig’s Bladder)
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Salade de Homard du Maine a la Parisienne (Parisian Lobster Salad) & Turbot au Champagne (Turbot in a Champagne Sauce)
Click to read the Dish By Dish >>
Danny Meyer’s Chicken Soup for the Soul
The Hungry Goat — March 06, 2009
For Danny Meyer’s “Chicken Soup” initiative, the restaurateur has challenged the chefs at his esteemed restaurants (save Shake Shack) to come up with their own spin on classic Chicken Soup. For every bowl that is sold during this promotion, which lasts through March 31st, $2 will be donated to City Harvest. The truth is, in these difficult times, a comforting bowl of chicken soup might benefit the diner just as much as the charity. Especially when the soups in question feature ingredients like sweetbreads, black truffles, and ricotta dumplings.
I took to the streets in the name of culinary benevolence to see how Meyer’s restaurants were interpreting this simple dish. What I found were five very different, very delicious, interpretations of chicken soup, each a reflection of the restaurant and the chef.
Dish by Dish: Per Se
Jeff Zalaznick — February 25, 2009
Amuse Bouche: Salmon Tartare Cornets
1st Course: “Oysters and Pearls”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar
2nd Course: “Scrambled Eggs”
Sautéed Sweetbreads with Slow-Cooked Black Truffle Scrambled Eggs
AlwaysHungry: Momofuku Ko
Jeff Zalaznick & The Gluttoness — February 23, 2009
“We should go to Co. for our office meal,” I said late last week upon learning that Jim Lahey’s Company had finally acquiesced to being open during lunch hours.
Jeff heard “Ko,” and wearing a smirk, secretly went to check availability at Momofuku Ko .
“We’re going,” he said, inspiring me to celebrate over the prospect of eating artisanal pizza.
“No,” he corrected, “I mean, we’re going to Momofuku Ko.”
In a rare moment of availability and well-guided fate, he had unbelievably snatched up a coveted lunch reservation for 12:20pm this past Friday. I couldn’t believe it, but his giant smile and a printed confirmation dispelled my skepticism. I broke into a prolonged extra-happy dance, which lasted until we sat down for the meal. Some people play 18 holes in an afternoon—if you’re AlwaysHungry, you enjoy an 18-course meal.
Since photography is banned (while twittering about our meal, I was even accused of taking pictures with my phone), we decided the most interesting way to share our experience was to grade each course individually without discussion. Here is a Dish by Dish and our results:
1st Course: Trio of Hors d’Oeuvres
Fried Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp) Heads
The Gluttoness’ Grade: B+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A+
Pommes Souffle with Caviar & Crème Fraiche
The Gluttoness’ Grade: A+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: B
Pomegranate-Glazed Duck Tongue Confit over Grilled Rice Cake
The Gluttoness’ Grade: A-
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: B+
2nd Course: Oysters
New Brunswick Beau Soleil Oyster topped with American Hackleback Caviar & Lime
The Gluttoness’ Grade: A-
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: B+
3rd Course: Kampachi
Japanese Kampachi with Lemon Balm, Daikon Radish, Sea Salt & Mustard Sprouts
The Gluttoness’ Grade: B+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A-
4th Course: Fluke
Sliced Long Island Fluke topped with Gochujang, 2-Year Aged Artisanal Soy Sauce, Chives & Ginger-Pickled Shallots
MMS: Gochujang — A fermented chili paste similar in flavor to Sriracha.
The Gluttoness’ Grade: A+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A+
5th Course: Sweet Shrimp
Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp) tossed with Avocado, Blood Orange, Mustard Oil & Tomburi Seeds
MMS: Tomburi Seeds — Also known as “boiled broom corn” or “Vegetarian Caviar”, they are used to add a caviar-like popping sensation.
The Gluttoness’ Grade: A-
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A+
Dish by Dish: Del Posto
The Hungry Goat — February 17, 2009
Mario Batali & Joe Bastianich’s much-decorated temple of Italian fine dining is the kind of grand place that just makes a diner feel special. The combination of Chef Mark Ladner’s refined, comforting fare and outstanding service is what consistently makes Del Posto an A+ dining experience, and one of AlwaysHungry’s favorite restaurants.
AlwaysHungry Gets Totally Baked
The Gluttoness — September 02, 2008
Not like we need a real reason to ravage a restaurant, but with our offices just a few blocks from Totally Baked, it was only fitting that we investigate in AlwaysHungry-style—with a slew of gourmet baked potatoes. The ordering was immense, the tasting was arduous, and after serious degustation and subsequent conversation, we all agreed on a unanimous winner. So in ascending order from the lamest to the most luscious, here’s the results of our spud-tacular taste test.
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