Dish-by-Dish: Kittichai

Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — February 18, 2010

From top left: Kittichai exterior, Tuna Tartare, Ruby Red Chili Cocktail, and Braised Short Ribs.

It has been almost six years since Kittichai received two stars from The Times. These days Chef Pongtawat Ian Chalermkittichai spends more time in Thailand than he does near the kitchen in SoHo, and the mantle has been passed to Chef Lulzim Rexhepí. Judging solely on the basis of the crowds (female-dominated) packing the dimly-lit dining room, he seems to be doing something right. We recently accepted an invitation to see what it was.

Click Here for Kittichai Dish-by-Dish >>

AHNY Challenge: Feel the Burn!

Arthur Bovino — June 30, 2009

Chowhound chatter alerted us to the potential for a showdown between what some have called New York’s spiciest dishes, Brick Lane Curry House’s Phaal Challenge and Rhong Tiam’s Pork on Fire. Brick Lane’s menu is the best introduction to phaal (above):

An excruciatingly hot curry, more pain and sweat than flavor, for our customers who do this on a dare, we will require you to state a verbal disclaimer not holding us liable for any physical or emotional damage after eating this curry. If you do manage to finish your serving of curry, a bottle of beer is on us.

Big talk, but documented attempts back it up. In the other corner is “Pork on Fire,” (Moo-Na-Rok, $13) a dish from the West Village restaurant, Rhong Tiam. Last summer, a New York Times article suggested it could be a “contender for spiciest dish in the city,” a suggestion that didn’t go untested.

We decided to see which dish was hotter.

Click to find out which dish is spicier: Phaal or "Pork on Fire" >>

Featured Dish: Thai Nachos

The Gluttoness — June 04, 2009

Rhong Tiam bills this dish as Thai Nachos but considering the composition, “Thai Chips and Salsa” is more like it. White and green shrimp chips surround a Coconut Dipping Sauce laced with minced bits of chicken and shrimp. The airy chips sizzle and soften when dipped— it sounds like a cross between Pop Rocks and the Snap, Crackle, Pop of Rice Krispies. It’s a curious but light and tasty summer appetizer.

AlwaysPartying: International Pickle Week

The Gluttoness — May 22, 2009

In celebration of International Pickle Week (May 15 through the 25) it’s time to pay homage to some of our favorite, non-traditional, international pickle plates in New York City. It’s not that we don’t love the NYC Pickle Guys and the sour or half-sour cukes at Katz’s and Second Avenue Deli, but sometimes AlwaysHungryNY likes to spice things up and the pickles at these restaurants really pack some heat.

Click here to read more about NYC's Asian Pickles >>

AlwaysHungryNY: Kurve & Basta Pasta Asian Pastas

The Hungry Goat — May 18, 2009

Drawing inspiration from foreign cuisines and cooking techniques is part of what chefs do. But what to make of Basta Pasta, a Japanese-run Italian restaurant serving Spaghetti with Tobiko, and Kurve, a contemporary Thai restaurant, dishing up an Asian spin on Carbonara?

Basta Pasta
Spaghetti con Uova di Pesce (Spaghetti with Tobiko & Shiso, $15)

This dish arrives steaming with the smell of the sea. Its clean, focused flavors and simple presentation is the first indicator of classic Japanese technique. The spaghetti was cooked the way it’s supposed to be cooked— just a touch past al dente. These silky threads were dressed in a light oil-based sauce, which made them very slurpable. The dish was covered with Shiso leaf chiffonade and was abound with Tobiko. The jewel-toned orange roe pop all over your mouth with each bite, releasing tiny bursts of sea essence that aren’t fishy in the least. This is a great sushi-lover’s pasta.

Kurve
Spaghetti Carbonara with Bacon & Thai Basil ($12)

Save the presence of pork (in the form of bacon) and pasta, there’s nothing really Carbonara-ish about this pasta. Rather than being smooth, the sauce was mealy, like a pesto. And indeed, there is something nutty about the flavor, but it’s derived from the overall texture created by a combination of all ingredients. Large pieces of salty bacon added crunch, and fiery, dried chilis provided texture and a powerful spicy kick. The result is odd in a way only Kurve knows how to be—odd because somehow, it works. You spend the first four bites figuring it out, then suddenly, you’re picking at stray pieces of bacon and pepper, wondering what just happened and craving more. Sure, the pasta is slightly overcooked, and the sauce is puzzling, but for spice lovers, it has an inescapable pull.

After tasting these dishes we’re not exactly sure anymore who’s making what with which influences, but with such successful executions, being confused is an acceptable state of existence.

AlwaysInvestigating: Kurve’s Wagyu Burger

The Hungry Goat — April 30, 2009

One thing’s for certain, you would never accuse Kurve of being predictable. From the beginning, chef/owner Andy Yang had us all on our toes with his restaurant’s peekaboo open-shutter-reopen debut. Since its “official” September launch, the perennially plagued establishment has become just as notorious for being chronically empty as for its difficult-to-categorize, Asian fare—the eclectic, disjointed menu even left the great Bruni scratching his head. A recent discovery had us feeling the same way. What could be more unpredictable than a seriously great burger made by a “contemporary” Thai restaurant with a Eurotrash dance-club aesthetic?

Click here to read about Kurve's Wagyu Burger >>

AlwaysInformed: Thai PM Deposed for Cooking

The Gluttoness — September 10, 2008

Stories like this don’t come along everyday, and Prime Ministers don’t usually have backgrounds as celebrity chefs; but Thailand’s PM Samak Sundaravej is of a rare breed. Once the star of his own cooking program, Tasting & Complaining, Sundaravej, 73, is now being accused of breaking Article 267 of his country’s constitution for continuing to appear on the show despite serving in office. To the courts, his participation demonstrated his defiance of conflict of interest laws (specifically, moonlighting) despite his insistence that he wasn’t paid for the gig beyond reimbursement for travel and ingredients.

What’s really interesting is how Sundaravej used his love of cooking to gain respect and popularity amongst his countrymen, offering cheap recipes for poor Thais and bringing Chicken Curry to the Thai troops who patrol the Cambodian border. This unfortunate reality is seen as a humiliating blow to Sundaravej, and while his supporters are vowing to bring him back to power, it’s obvious this unbelievable ordeal will only worsen Thailand’s already deep political crisis. And to think that cooking is only supposed to bring people together.

AlwaysPartying: Double-Fisting, Gluttoness-Style, at The US OPEN

The Gluttoness — September 03, 2008

The US Open is a serious sporting event and the extensive food court has the daunting task of catering to the legions of international fans and players. So it only makes sense that you can find anything from a Corned Beef Sandwich to a Chicken Roti Roll, and then be able to wash everything down with a Honey Deuce Cocktail from the Grey Goose Bar. While tennis is obviously the main attraction, the social atmosphere could easily be mistaken for an all-inclusive fast-food dinner party outside the main stage. I had been looking forward to Curry & Curry all day long, but I was admittedly disillusioned by the generic “New Dehli Cuisine” sign—good thing I’ll get another chance this evening when I watch the Williams sisters battle it out on the court.

So I landed in line at Crepe Express, a real power move since the crazy crowds warranted limited patience and the crepe stand offered both savory and sweet varieties; making for a well-orchestrated stab at dinner and dessert in one fell swoop. But unlike last year’s traditional French combination of turkey, ham and cheese (cleverly dubbed the “Crepe Monsieur”), Crepe Express has expanded their flavor horizons to include new, ambitious offerings such as Skirt Steak and Thai Shrimp.

The latter, which came loaded with sautéed cabbage, carrot, broccoli and a sweet peanut sauce, was shockingly satisfying and tasty. The extra crispy edges of the crepe were a crunchy treat that gave way to the awesomely Asian filling, surprisingly brimming with what seemed like fresh vegetables and a generous helping of shellfish that managed to squeeze into every juicy bite. The flavor was tasty but not tremendous. The sesame oil in the slaw slightly overpowered whatever peanut sauce was used, but even down to the last greasy bite I was immensely pleased with my fast-food fare. Not to mention, I still had a hot Banana and Nutella crepe to sneak in to Arthur Ashe to keep me satisfied until match point.