AlwaysInvestigating: Meat and Potatoes Sandwich-Style

Arthur Bovino — January 26, 2010

Tabla’s Lamb Sandwich with Mustard Mashed Potatoes, Lime and Cucumber Raita.

Meat and potatoes may be a standard combination on a plate, but you don’t always see potatoes as a condiment. Sure, there’s the classic cafeteria move of piling potato chips on a sandwich, and some people spread leftover mashed potatoes on Thanksgiving sandwiches. But when dining out you don’t usually get to eat them both on a sandwich in one bite. While looking through Tabla’s menu, we were reminded about their Lamb Sandwich with mashed potatoes, which made the cut with their revamp. We realized that we’ve been eating potatoes on sandwiches in different forms quite a bit. Consider three sandwiches from Tabla, Rye House, and Bobby’s Burger Palace.

Tabla’s Lamb Sandwich features Mustard Mashed Potatoes, Lime and Cucumber Raita ($26). It’s samosa as sandwich. There’s great lamb flavor, mashed potato texture, tangy lime, and creamy yogurt. It’s impressive that the bread holds up to all the stuff going on inside, especially when you start ladling on the raita. This is a surprisingly messy, heavy sandwich for a power lunch place, but it’s tasty and good for sharing. It takes using potato as condiment to the next level, mixing a condiment, mustard, into it. It’s also served at dinner, but as the “Pulled Lamb ‘Naanini.’

Click here for photographs of meat and potatoes sandwich-style >>

AlwaysPartying: Epicurious’ Ultimate Lunch Break

The Gluttoness — September 30, 2009

From Hill Country BBQ Beef Sandwich with Cole Slaw and Sweet Pickles.

Epicurious Entertains NYC (view) began today, and the mega-event (calendar) featuring celebrity chef demos and tastings, with portions of the proceeds going to Feeding America and the NYC Food Bank, kicked off in Union Square with The Ultimate NYC Lunch Break. The sold-out affair lived up to its lofty moniker. The afternoon’s plentiful spread featured some of AlwaysHungryNY.com’s neighborhood lunchtime favorites, namely Tabla’s Chicken Tikka Frankie and Hill Country’s BBQ Beef Sandwich.

Celebrated chefs like Julian Medina and Seamus Mullen were on-hand to dish out their respective Pork and Pineapple Tacos and Lamb Bacon BLTs. Following Mermaid Inn’s Lobster Roll and Cafe Habana’s Cubano, the Treats Truck came through with an impressive array of sweets, the Pecan Butterscotch Bars being the best of the bunch. For twenty bucks, it won’t be easy to find lunch from this many great diverse restaurants in Manhattan.

Click Here for "The Ultimate Lunch Break's" Dish-by-Dish of >>

FirstLook: Aamchi Pao

Arthur Bovino — June 17, 2009

“There’s always a right time to reinvent yourself,” Chef Surbhi Sahni, told us recently at Aamchi Pao.

No, Chef Sahni isn’t leaving her post as Devi’s pastry chef. But she has joined Nandini Mukherjee as co-owner at the reincarnation of Mukherjee’s West Village restaurant of almost six years, the Indian Bread Co. As previously reported, the Stuffed Parathas and Naanwhichs (grilled Indian “panini”) are gone. There are still Kathi Rolls, but the Naan sandwiches have been replaced by “Pao,” renditions of Pav Bhaji, a Mumbai street food that is essentially an Indian Slider. The word “Pav,” in Marathi (the language of southwestern India), is said to come from Pão, the Portuguese word for bread.

Click here to read more about Aamchi Pao's Mumbai Sliders >>

AlwaysPartying: Top 5 Sweet & Savory at Street & Savory

The Gluttoness — June 10, 2009

“Street and Savory— A Global Street Food Festival for the Benefit of Citymeals-on-Wheels” was one of the most successful tasting events I’ve ever attended, and not because Kelly Choi was hosting. Rather than trying to outdo the next guy with fancier foie gras, the mission at Street & Savory was much simpler: a legion of legendary chefs set out to creatively interpret their favorite street foods. While the dishes weren’t necessarily low-brow, the majority of them kept with the theme, and the most delicious bites were those which could easily be served on the street.

Street cart veterans, like Roy Choi of the famed Los Angeles Kogi BBQ Truck, served Kimchi Quesadillas alongside Jean Georges, Daniel Boulud and Charlie Palmer, who took on the format with impressive results. With a little under forty booths, there was much to be eaten. Our award for creativity goes to Park Avenue Summer’s “3-Minute Picnic.” Of course, this wasn’t a contest, and ultimately, the real winner was Citymeals-on-Wheels, which raised hundreds of thousands of dollars to help feed the homeless, but of course we had our favorites among the many stands.

A quick round-up of the best of the bunch follows.

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AlwaysInvestigating: Tabla’s Frankie Cart

The Gluttoness — April 22, 2009

Yesterday, Tom Colicchio was quoted on Yum Sugar musing about a possible follow-up to the banh mi —what he sees as the next trendsetting ethnic sandwich. Colicchio suggested Indian street food, citing in particular the one with a “funny name,” in reference to the “chicken frankie.”

A Frankie is an Indian wrap best described as a Mumbai burrito. The construction of a frankie sounds very similar to a Kati (Roti) roll, but among the Indian community they could not be more different. Consider it the Indian version of the New York and Chicago-style pizza debate. A kati roll is an inexpensive street food that was first popular in Kolkata before spreading throughout India. The concept was conceived when street vendors didn’t have enough time to wash their plates, so they started serving their marinated and grilled kebabs wrapped in paratha or roti (Indian flatbread), effectively offering the two items together without the dishware. Aside from the kebab, a typical kati roll also includes a spicy coriander chutney and onions.

Frankies are unique to Mumbai and distinguished through the practice of egg washing the casing. The omelette-like roti wrapping is stuffed with tangy, saucier proteins. The birth of the frankie may be credited to Mr. Amarjit Singh Tibb. Many believe that the frankie is the evolution of the kati roll, but Tibb was in fact inspired by a Lebanese preparation of a stuffed pita bread—similar to Arabian shawarma. After his trip to Lebanon in 1967, he substituted soft yet crisp Indian naan to encase the variety of curried fillings. Tibb named his specialty after the famed West Indian cricketer, Frank Worrell, and subsequently trademarked the term. The first “Tibbs Frankie” opened in Mumbai over thirty years ago, and now the fast food chain has multiple, franchised locations.

It just so happens that last week, in advance of Colicchio’s predictions, the Tabla Frankie Cart resumed outdoor business. The cart’s specialty, the Chicken Tikka Frankie (pictured), features Bread Bar “chicken tikka” and mint chutney wrapped in an egg-washed “roti”. While traditional roti is forgone for a simple flour tortilla, the griddled coating of egg wash incorporates cilantro, chilis and scallion, and the moist pieces of chicken are marinated in green curry, cumin, pepper, garlic, ginger and scallion. The exterior is surprisingly eggy, almost reminiscent of a Parisian crepe. The chicken is flavorful, and the green chutney exudes vibrant hints of garlic and mint. Currently, the chicken is the only variety that is available, but Tabla plans to offer additional vegetarian options once the Greenmarket is better stocked.

Tabla’s Frankie Cart is located outside the restaurant at: 11 Madison Avenue

HungryChefs: Tap & Tapas

Arthur Bovino — April 21, 2009

Last night fourteen of New York’s most popular chefs gathered in the Westside Loft for dance charity, Groove with Me’s 5th annual Tap & Tapas spring benefit event. Founded in 1996 by Abigail Rosin, Groove With Me is a nonprofit youth development organization that enlists more than 40 volunteer dance teachers to provide free dance classes to inner city girls. For $150, guests were privy to tastes that ranged from Almond Vichyssoise and Bombay “Radga,” to Crispy Pork Cheeks and Confit Lamb’s Belly. All this while watching ballet and tap performances by some of the girls who have benefitted from time volunteered by Groove With Me’s dance teachers and a performance by renowned tapper, Savion Glover (Bring in Da Noise Bring in Da Funk).

The best starter belonged to Top Chef’s Season One winner, Chef Harold Dieterle of Perilla. He brought Taylor Bay Scallops with Pickled Green Papaya Mignonette which had a slight spicy kick. There were several strong, hearty amuses. Chef Floyd Cardoz of Tabla served his version of “Ragda” a Mumbai street food consisting of Stewed Peas with Tamarind and Mint Chutney topped with Chickpea Noodles. Table 8’s Chef Govind Amstrong prepared Seared Striped Bass with Sauteéd Cauliflower and a Caper Dill Vinaigrette. And Chef Ryan Skeen of Irving Mill really brought it with a mouth-watering Crispy Lamb Belly with Chickpea Purée (shown left) accompanied by Kumquaat and Grapefruit Marmalade and Goat Cheese Purée (you can find it on his new Spring menu at the end of the week).

A light, sweet touch was added by Erin McKenna’s (Babycakes NYC) gluten-free, vegan Brownie Bites, which were delicious despite their description. But it was the “Egg” dessert (shown right) by Le Bernardin’s Michael Laiskonis which held the spotlight. The dessert was served in a hollowed, brown egg shell minus the top. Inside, the shell was filled with Chocolate Cream, Caramel Foam, several drops of Maple Syrup and sprinkled with Maldon Sea Salt—we had seconds.

During the event we had a few moments to speak with some of the chefs about some of the things they’re currently most excited about.

Click here for the Tap & Tapas Menu and to read our Chef Round-Up >>

Danny Meyer’s Chicken Soup for the Soul

The Hungry Goat — March 06, 2009

For Danny Meyer’s “Chicken Soup” initiative, the restaurateur has challenged the chefs at his esteemed restaurants (save Shake Shack) to come up with their own spin on classic Chicken Soup. For every bowl that is sold during this promotion, which lasts through March 31st, $2 will be donated to City Harvest. The truth is, in these difficult times, a comforting bowl of chicken soup might benefit the diner just as much as the charity. Especially when the soups in question feature ingredients like sweetbreads, black truffles, and ricotta dumplings.

I took to the streets in the name of culinary benevolence to see how Meyer’s restaurants were interpreting this simple dish. What I found were five very different, very delicious, interpretations of chicken soup, each a reflection of the restaurant and the chef.

Click Here for the Dish by Dish >>