Featured Brunch: The Redhead

Maryse Chevrière — March 19, 2010

Clockwise from top: Biscuits and Gravy with Hamsteak, Red-Eye Gravy, Poached Egg, and Piccalilli Relish; Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Coq-au-Vin Leg, Wild Rice and Bacon; Monkey Bread.

Chances are you’ve already had and enjoyed chef Meg Grace’s much buzzed-about Fried Chicken at The Redhead. The addictive, poppable Bacon Peanut Brittle too. But if you need another excuse to visit this southern-bent East Village restaurant, consider it for your next brunch outing.

For those who like biscuits and gravy, there’s an eye-catching rendition not often seen in New York, with Hamsteak, Red-Eye Gravy, Slow-Poached Egg, and Piccalilli Relish. The large slices of salty hamsteak are piled over an open-faced sweet roll-like buttermilk biscuit. The move here is to break the yolk of the soft-poached egg, then mix it in with the thin red-eye gravy, whose slightly bitter flavor comes from the coffee it’s made with.

Then of course, there are chicken and waffles. The pulled meat in the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Coq-au-Vin Leg, Wild Rice and Bacon Waffle is tender and well-sauced. Had there been a second bacon waffle, a supreme chicken breakfast sandwich would have likely materialized.

The real star of the brunch menu, however, is the Monkey Bread. It’s a soft, cakey roll topped with caramelized bananas, and a sticky-sweet-oozy frosting that you want to get all over your fingers, just so you can lick it off.

First Look: Pies ‘n’ Thighs

Arthur Bovino — March 02, 2010

From top clockwise: Literally, Pies (Key Lime and Tarheel) and Thighs (Chicken Box with Biscuit), inside, and outside.

It is one of the reassuring quirks of a city that is constantly changing that occasionally it returns something once given up for lost. So it is with Pies-n-Thighs, Williamsburg’s own Mary Mac’s.

The original (literally under a bridge down by the river), by Sarah Buck and Stephen Tanner, was a place that people felt they had discovered even after it was trendy. You couldn’t be mad at it for becoming popular. And when it closed, you felt as if a good friend who knew how to perform miracles in a kitchen smaller than yours, had moved.

Everyone knew it would be a hit when it reopened. The question was, “When?”

Pies 'n' Thighs >>

AlwaysHungry: The Brooklyn Star

Arthur Bovino — February 17, 2010

Clockwise from top: Tripe Chili with Fritos, Jalapeño and Bacon Cornbread, looking onto Havemeyer Street, Country Fried Steak with White Gravy and Slaw.

It’s shocking to learn that just hours after we left last night, a disastrous fire struck The Brooklyn Star.

There we were, preparing to post a reminder about how the biscuits fill the restaurant with the smell of butter and pleasantly return to dough form in your mouth. How you could slather butter and honey on the cast-iron cooked, jalapeño and bacon cornbread, drop ice cream on it and call it dessert. How the Tripe Chili with Fritos is a great winter meal, and that the Fried Pig Tails are Williamsburg’s offal wings. The Country Fried Steak even had us pondering the order of our Top 5 Chicken Fried Steak.

It was the second consecutive meal in two weeks that we had enjoyed, with plans to return for the enticing brunch dishes (Biscuits and Sausage Gravy with Eggs, Apple Johnny Cakes, Fried Chicken and Waffles, and Shrimp and Grits). Thankfully, no one was hurt. In the interim months before they plan to reopen, here are some photographs of the food that will be missed.

Click Here for the Full Slideshow >>

Featured Brunch: Cowgirl Sea-Horse

The Gluttoness — October 16, 2009

Seahorse Omelette with Green Chilies, Spinach and Mushrooms with Roasted Potatoes and Toast.

Cowgirl’s new outpost, Cowgirl Sea-Horse (view), hidden away under the Brooklyn Bridge on the outskirts of the South Street Seaport may not seem like the best location at first. But this charming restaurant with a cozy atmosphere, exposed brick walls and multi-colored beach buckets, doesn’t seem to be having trouble drawing customers. And its closest competitor, RED, can’t compete with Sea-Horse’s well-priced, home-style Southwestern cuisine.

The addition of “Sea-Horse” to the name has brought with it seafood dishes not on Cowgirl’s original menu. They include classics like crab cakes, shrimp and oyster Po’ boys, and “Bayou Boats” filled with deep-fried seafood (catfish, oysters, shrimp or clams), as well as clever dishes like Rattlesnake Bites (roasted jalapeños stuffed with grilled shrimp and wrapped in bacon) and a White Fish Reuben.

Brunch is particularly enticing, especially since the restaurant’s entire menu is available—if you want Coconut Shrimp with your Seahorse Scramble, you can have it. Egg dishes are paired with perfectly crisp roasted potatoes and a fresh, warm biscuit. The Huevos Rancheros is particularly good— covered in still-melting cheese that runs over the edges of the warm runny eggs. And the Chocolate Chip Pancakes can be ordered from the Kids’ Menu for just $6.50.

For downtown diners, Cowgirl Sea-Horse is a welcome addition to the neighborhood, particularly to the Seaport, which features conglomerate chain restaurants like Uno Chicago Grill and Heartland Brewery. I’m already planning a return visit for the Cap N Crunch French Toast, which sounds like an ideal way to start the weekend, especially since it can be washed down with Cowgirl’s Famous Dr Pepper Float—with chocolate ice cream, and maybe some French fries for dipping.

For more pictures of dishes at Cowgirl Sea-Horse check out its restaurant page here.

AlwaysPartying: Fatty Football Feast

The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009

The Gluttoness’ heaping helping.

I’m used to enjoying hanging with the guys for marathon Sunday football sessions, but this past Sunday was really special. As I embarked up the stairwell at 844 Broadway for Epicurious.com’s “Fatty Sunday,” the scent of smoked meat was almost palpable. On the third floor, the always awesome Fatty team was offering a sneak-peek at the Southeast Asian Barbeque that’s going to be served at their long-awaited Brooklyn outpost, Fatty ‘Cue.

Left, Robbie Richter and Corwin Kave. Right, Zak Pelaccio.

The event was dubbed, “A Zak Pelaccio Lunchtime Feast,” and the buffet-style spread fit the bill. The room was outfitted like a cafeteria, with room-length tables flanked by flat-screens (on which the Giants showed Kansas City who was really chief). The food was showcased in the demonstration kitchen, where Zak Pelaccio, Corwin Kave and Andrew Pressler worked the burners, while Robbie Richter sliced Smoked BBQ Lamb Shoulder. It was topped with a Goat Yogurt Chili Sauce and the first bite had my nose running in no time. Since the Fatty crew intends to focus on local, sustainable products, all of Sunday’s dishes won’t necessarily be available when Fatty Cue opens, but they hope to keep a lamb and/or goat dish on the menu.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysTraveling: Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo (São Paulo, Brazil)

Arthur Bovino — September 08, 2009

Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo

Restaurant: Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo
Address: Rua Haddock Lobo, 1408, São Paulo, SP, 01414-002, Brazil (salghadhinos and a cloth-covered basket on top filled with warm goodness. Rich, sunglass-wearing women rub elbows at the counter with anyone who has a few reais to spend on what are the best pão de queijo in the city, if not the country.

Part of what’s so good about this place is how fresh everything is— literally just from the oven. Every fifteen minutes, fresh pão de queijo is brought out front and placed in the basket, usually by Tiao, the ever-smiling baker with the white hat who is a local celebrity. The fresh pão don’t stay in the basket long, there’s usually a line of businessmen, children, tourists and housewives who have staked out the counter. Unlike typical renditions, these are not domed. Instead, they’re misshapen and elongated. And while they’re made with cassava flour according to traditional methods, they are very light and their texture is unique— more like a cross between pão de queijo and biscuits from the American South. They’re like warm, cheesy, slightly stretchy biscuits with a slight crunch on the outside.

The coxinha is just as addictive. Some have attributed the attraction to “its crunch, unlike any candy bar.” While it’s true that this delicate exterior is superb, it’s the center that’s truly amazing. If chicken were candy without being sweet, this would be it. The meat is delicately shredded, as if done by hand, and it’s moist, as though it was just cooked, battered and fried moments ago. Add your dash of hot sauce with each bite, down some espresso and don’t expect to eat anywhere else after because once you’ve tasted one of each, you’ll be gobbling up several more.

Coxinha at Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo.

Pão de Queijo, fresh from the cloth-covered basket.

AlwaysInvestigating: Cornbread Ice Cream

Arthur Bovino — August 13, 2009

A heaping bowl of Cornbread Ice Cream ($4) at Dante’s Southern Fusion in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

As fans of Sundaes and Cones and even Shake Shack can attest (it’s August’s Thursday flavor), Corn Ice Cream is a popular if not everyday flavor. Dante’s Southern Fusion (view site) in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, recently advertised an intriguing variation on their menu: Cornbread Ice Cream.

Dante’s cuisine is described as classic southern dishes made with “classic Asian, Spanish or French techniques and sauces.” As interesting as it sounds and as beloved as cornbread is, this flavor’s success was not predetermined. Would it have the flavor of cornbread and the texture? And if it had the texture, would there be cold, hard-kerneled chunks?

The restaurant’s owner, Dante (“he just goes by Dante, like Prince,” said Chef Joseph Capozzi), recently bought an ice cream machine about a month ago. “We’ve just been coming up with all sorts of crazy ice creams,” noted Capozzi, who has his own cooking video site, theultimatebyte.com

Staff members have been encouraged to suggest flavors. Quirky ones currently on the menu are Chinese 5-Spice and Kentucky Twirl (Bourbon Ice Cream with a Raspberry Swirl). They haven’t all made the cut. Take the Rum with Blueberry Lemonade Mix, nicknamed ‘Bacardi Blue.’ The cornbread flavor was a creation of Dante, who according to Chef Capozzi, was inspired by the free cornbread they serve.

“It’s funny because he’s got a science background so he comes up with crazy stuff and different ideas,” said Chef Capozzi. “They call me the magic man because I make the ideas happen.”

It turns out there was some magic because the flavor is craveable. The cornbread has real corn and pimentos, which provided the ice cream with quite a substantial texture. But it was an enhancement—it was as if someone left a cornbread cookie in a bowl of milk, soaked it until it disintegrated slightly, then made ice cream with it. The bowl of five scoops disappeared in less than three minutes. The next step may be to invent suitable toppings— perhaps honey, bacon bits, maple butterscotch syrup or even chili?

AlwaysInvestigating: Texas “Desserts”

Katie Reisert — August 06, 2009

Cowgirl’s Frito Pie, Fritos with beef brisket or veggie chili, cheddar, onions, sour cream & jalapeños (small $7.95, large $9.95).

Sundaes and pies are dessert menu fare, but some New York City restaurants are shaking things up with savory interpretations of these dessert words: Frito Pie and the Truck-Stop Sundae. Frito Pie is a Texan classic served at Cowgirl and the Truck-Stop Sundae is served at the East Village restaurant named for the Texan town, Marfa, so we’ve been calling them Texas “Desserts”.

Frito Pie is made with chili, cheese, onions and corn chips. Its origins are murky but point to the South and the Southwest, specifically Texas, New Mexico and Oklahoma. There are two common preparations: 1) a casserole and 2) a small bag of ingredient-topped, crunchy chips. Cowgirl’s Frito Pie is the latter— it nearly explodes out of the bag. The giant reddish lump of chili contains hefty pieces of brisket superior to the ground beef you would expect. It’s piled with sour cream, onions, jalapeños and cheddar.

The “pie” is good, but reminiscent of a bowl of chili that would have been more satisfying on a ski slope than in the West Village on a muggy July day. One flaw was the execution of the Fritos. It wasn’t until halfway through the dish that an actual Frito could be found— they had almost all completely disintegrated. If only Cowgirl’s generous toppings and flavor were combined with Fat Annie’s crunchy chip layer, you’d have the city’s best Frito Pie.

Marfa’s Truck-Stop Sundae features beans, pork and “slaw,” $6

The Truck-Stop Sundae at Marfa is less elaborately presented than Cowgirl’s Frito Pie, but its deep red chili undertones and the purple of the red cabbage make it visually appealing. And what it lacks presentation-wise it makes up for with taste. It’s served with beans, slaw and pork that settles to the bottom of the dish. The beans were in a sweet and tangy sauce and the red cabbage (not weighed down with mayo or seasoning) provided the crunch missing in the Frito Pie.

First Look: Momofuku’s Fried Chicken Dinner

Jeff Zalaznick — July 24, 2009

A couple of days ago, Always Hungry broke the news about Momofuku’s Fried Chicken Dinner, and therefore was able to score a table before the new ko-style reservation system became impossible to log on to. Now, we will bring you the first look.

The heaping platter of fried chicken (two chickens) is divided into two styles: Korean and Southern. An accompanying French Riviera style “bounty bowl” contained: butter lettuce, shiso leaves, Thai basil, mint, shisito peppers, baby purple carrots and red ball radishes. There were also four sauces. If you are an experienced Momofuku eater, you will probably recognize a few of them. The Hoisin is from the Pork Buns. The Ginger-Scallion and Bibim will be familiar if you’ve had the Bo Ssäm at Ssäm Bar. The Jalapeño-Garlic sauce though, was made specifically for the Fried Chicken Dinner, and was an excellent addition to the suite of Momofuku sauces. The feast also came with stacks of warm mu shu pancakes.

Click here for pictures >>

AlwaysInformed: Momofuku Noodle Bar’s Fried Chicken Dinner

The Gluttoness — July 21, 2009

We have very exciting news: Momofuku Noodle Bar has installed a new Ko-style reservation system for their new reservations-only Fried Chicken Dinner.

You can now take Momofuku Ssäm Bar’s Bell & Evan’s Fried Chicken experience to the next level. The $100 dinner at the Noodle Bar (restaurant page) features two whole fried chickens, one prepared Southern-style with a buttermilk and old bay batter, and the other done Korean-style (triple fried with a light spicy glaze). This awesome duo comes with mu shu pancakes, long spicy peppers, baby carrots, red bell radishes, shiso leaves, bibb lettuce, four fabulous sauces and a basket of herbs so you can spice things up yourself.

The meal feeds four to eight people, and is available for lunch everyday at noon and 2pm, and dinner (Sun-Thurs at 6pm and 8pm and Fri-Sat at 6pm, 8pm and 10pm). It’s a brilliant idea, but then we’ve come to expect no less from David Chang. You can be sure that AlwaysHungryNY.com will be devouring this fried chicken feast very soon.

CLICK HERE to make a reservation.

AlwaysHungryNY: Ultimate Derby Dining

The Gluttoness — May 01, 2009

The Kentucky Derby is tomorrow. When you think about it, aside from those tea sandwiches, the Derby is actually a respectable culinary occasion— the race only lasts two minutes and most of the time celebrating it is done while wining and dining in fancy garb. Even if you can’t make it to Churchill Downs for the festivities, you can still throw on your over-sized sun hat and dine like you’re there. Get dolled up and head over to Eleven Madison Park for its upscale Derby Party or, if you start itching to break out of the gate yourself, head over to Johnny Utah’s party and take a spin on the mechanical bull. For the ultimate Derby meal, we’ve cited New York’s best renditions of three Kentucky classics— Mint Juleps, Kentucky Hot Browns and Derby Pie.

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Top 5: Chicken Fried Steak

The Hungry Goat — March 18, 2009

When I heard about the opening of a West Texas-themed restaurant called Marfa last month, I got a hankering for Chicken Fried Steak like you wouldn’t believe. Being a Texas native, I was doubtful that any East Coast eatery would be able to make a Chicken Fried Steak with White Gravy that could hold a candle to the renditions I eat at home. Clearly this had Top5 mission written all over it. One massive chicken-fried coma later, the AlwaysHungry Council of Eaters was ready to rank. Determining the order was pretty cut and dry, except for when it came to naming the number one spot. Marfa was easily the most authentic, but Cafeteria had a slight edge in terms of overall flavor. It sent us into the throws of a deep gastro-dilemma (not to mention a heated argument), but in the end, there could be only one winner. Click here to find out who came out on top.

What’s in a Name?: The Redhead

The Gluttoness — February 10, 2009

Just as parents set out to find the perfect name for their newborns, chefs and restaurant owners alike are always searching for the perfect title for their restaurants. Some people go for the obvious, like a relative’s name or a favorite ingredient, but often times there is more to a moniker than meets the eye.

You’ve gotta respect a restaurant whose menu begins with Bacon Peanut Brittle. But in the case of The Redhead, there are many more reasons to love this casual joint and its impressive cuisine—we’re particularly fans of the Meatlover Flatbread, Buttermilk Fried Chicken and Shrimp & Grits. The menu is rooted in American dishes, with an emphasis on Southern classics, but you wouldn’t know any of that just by reading the name. And that’s the point.

The three owners (Meg, Gregg & Rob) didn’t want to choose a name that would automatically define the restaurant and people’s perception of it. To make their point, I was given an example. “If we named our restaurant, Crop,” Rob said, “then people would assume that we were serving greenmarket, seasonal food.” So in search of the perfect name to fit their concept of a neighborhood bar with great food, Rob and crew researched the old bars and restaurants that once inhabited the same East Village neighborhood.

In 1922, during the Prohibition Era, a new speakeasy called “The Red Head” opened in the East Village. It was instantly popular among the underground drinking crowd, and as a result it kept getting raided. In order to stay one step ahead of the police, the establishment was forced to continually relocate. Unfortunately, in 1929, just as The Red Head had gotten comfortable in its new midtown digs, it once again had to move in order to make way for the construction of Rockefeller Center. The restaurant, renamed “Jack and Charlie’s 21,” moved to its final locale on 52nd Street, where it still exists today as the restaurant we all know as the 21 Club.

Ever since learning the story of The Red Head, the name just stuck with the owners (which they combined into two words for reinvention’s sake), particularly because labeling a business “The Redhead” doesn’t invoke any pre-conceived notions of what it could be—a bar, restaurant, nightclub or fine dining outpost. The name fits its purpose, to be cutting edge in the East Village, and in many ways it reflects the Prohibition Era from which it originates, since the mysterious name allows the restaurant to maintain a sense of ambiguity. Because there is nothing cutting edge about naming your place “Bacon Peanut Brittle,” even though it would make for a pretty amazing name.

Did You Know?: Koolickle

September 25, 2008

Did you know that the term Koolickle refers to a dill pickle that’s been brined in cherry or strawberry Kool-Aid? These fluorescent cured cukes are a popular snack in the Deep South, particularly in the Mississippi Delta. Talk about junk food fusion.

Dish of the Week: Park Avenue’s Dr. Pepper Ribs

The Gluttoness — September 05, 2008

I was beyond excited to celebrate my graduation from The French Culinary Institute at Park Avenue Summer, when a chance encounter with ex-Chef Lawrence Knapp shot my excitement through the roof. While he currently serves as Executive Chef at Quality Meats, Knapp recommended the Dr. Pepper Ribs he had concocted for Summer’s menu. While I can frequently be found enjoying ribs with a chilly Dr. Pepper in the Hamptons, a complete collaboration of this tantalizing twosome has yet to cross my path—until now.

The ribs, which are part of Summer’s picnic-themed menu, are cleverly served on a marble slab with a mountainous glass of Dr. Pepper alongside. The succulent pork falls into your mouth with just the slightest bit of pressure, and you’re instantly impressed by the sweet barbecue sauce before you can even appreciate the juicy swine. The use of Dr. Pepper makes perfect sense, not only for the added value of carbonation in the tenderizing process, but also because the soda’s fabled blend of 23 fruit flavors is surely a secret seasoning agent.

And because these ribs happen to be some of the most delectable, mouth-watering ribs I’ve tasted in a while, I’ve consulted Chef Knapp so that you can try to recreate this Summer specialty on your own.

Dr. Pepper Ribs straight from the Chef's mouth. >>