Paying Homage: Troisgros’ Salmon and Sorrel

Arthur Bovino — April 19, 2010

An occasional feature that celebrates well-known dishes, and those that pay homage to them.

From left: L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille (Recette Originelle de 1965) at La Maison Troisgros in Roanne, and Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel at 5 & Diamond in Harlem.

For its recent gentrification, you still probably wouldn’t have expected to see an homage in Harlem to what is perhaps the world’s most famous salmon dish. But that is exactly what you’ll find with the Grilled Salmon and Wild Sorrel at chef Ryan Skeen’s 5 & Diamond.

First, a little background, and a culinary history reminder. Along with Paul Bocuse, it was Jean and Pierre Troigros of La Maison Troisgros, who pioneered nouvelle cuisine. And the signature dish at La Maison Troigros is of course, L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. As previously noted, Pierre’s son, Michel Troisgros, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Marie-Pierre, still serves the Recette Originelle de 1965 of this famous dish at the three Michelin-starred restaurant in Roanne, France.

Salmon and Sorrel in Roanne and Harlem >>