Featured Restaurant: Cafe Mogador
GutterGourmet — April 16, 2010
Cross-section of the Bastilla at Cafe Mogador.
Just when it seems that everything in Greenwich Village has been paved over, it’s good that some of the old standbys are just as they ever were. Cafe Mogador has been a casbah between Avenue A and First Avenue, as long as I can remember. Not casbah as in ‘Rock the Casbah’ (though some of Mogador’s patrons may still sport Clash T-shirts), but genuine Moroccan cuisine in a funky atmosphere, which if not strictly North African, recalls the Latin Quarter in Paris, or Greenwich Village 20 to 30 years ago.
AlwaysTraveling: Rodeo Food (Houston, TX)
Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — March 24, 2010
Clockwise from top: Chicken Fried Bacon from Yoakum Packing Company, a woman enjoys a sausage and corndog on a stick, entering the rodeo at Reliant Stadium.
Pig races, donkey-reining, supreme champion heifer drives, and “xtreme bulls.” That’s just one day on the program at Houston’s 2010 Rodeo and Livestock Show. And all that action really revs up some Texas-sized appetites— not that anyone there needed excuses. Having heard tell of some of the food on that was on the offer in past years, a trip to H-Town for rodeo food this year was imperative. The chicken-fry-everything-and-put-it-on-a-stick approach did not disappoint.
Cowboys left their F-1-somethings in the parking lots in favor of public transportation to Reliant Stadium where the rodeo was held all this month. You never thought you’d see so many Stetsons, big buckles, and boots riding light rail. Then, just inside the gates, past several “Welcome, y’all’s,” was the smell of livestock and BBQ. Billowing clouds of steam were thrown off by skillets bigger than wagon wheels. People walked around with juicy Roasted Turkey Legs almost as long as their forearms. Beef jerky, turkey jerky, pork tenderloin, burritos, nachos, French fries, potato chips, and funnel cake.
There was all the carnival fare you could imagine (and more), and much of the food on sticks. Pizza, sausage, meatballs, corndogs, and alligator. Of course there was fried food: catfish, Oreos, Nutter Butters, Twinkies, and oatmeal cream pies. And it wouldn’t have been Texas without chicken fried stuff, like meatballs, and, yes, bacon. Check out our five favorites below, and the full slideshow.
Photographs of food at Houston Rodeo 2010 >>
Always Hungry: Queens Hot Dog Trucks
GutterGourmet — January 08, 2010
Top, D’Angelos Italian Sausage with peppers and onions. Left, D’Angelos. Right, Angel Bonilla.
Long before the advent of trucks selling gourmet desserts, mini-cupcakes, waffles and even schnitzel, the D’Angelo family was selling life-affirming hot dogs in two very different regional styles alongside St. John’s Cemetery on Woodhaven Boulevard in Queens. The styles are miles apart in taste profile, but the two different trucks selling them are separated by only several hundred yards. Both were owned by the D’Angelo family, who have been doing this for about 40 years, but the Dominick’s truck was recently sold to a family friend.
Why St. Johns Cemetery? Angel Bonilla, one of the family members who runs the D’Angelos cart, laughed and said, “My uncle started it here many years ago, for no particular reason. He thought it was a good location. It seems to have worked out well for us though.” They’re hoping for similar fortune with their new Huntington location (918 E. Jericho Turnpike), which opened about a year ago.
Continue Reading About Dominick's and D'Angelos Hot Dogs and Sausages >>
AlwaysInformed: Wechsler’s Leberkäse
GutterGourmet and Arthur Bovino — January 06, 2010
Wechsler’s Leberkäse.
Want exciting sausages in the East Village? Try Wechsler’s on 1st Ave and 7th. Their signature dish is the well-documented currywurst. Even if you don’t love the taste (what’s wrong with you?) currywurst deserves your respect. After all, how many dishes have museums? But there’s another cultural food landmark from Germany at Wechsler’s that hasn’t gotten much attention: Leberkäse.
Click Here for Beautiful Pictures of Wechsler's Currywurst >>
Featured Brunch: Daniel Boulud Does Brunch
The Gluttoness — November 06, 2009
Summer Fruit Parfait with Yogurt, Granola and Berries, $9.00.
Hot off the heels of its two-star review from The Times, DBGB Kitchen & Bar (view) has experienced the expected surge in business, and not only during prime dinner hours. Turns out it’s not all about the sausages, especially during brunch, when DBGB serves sweeter delights like Belgian Waffles topped with chocolate or berries and whipped cream, and a Fruit Parfait featuring figs, yogurt and granola. You can still order a juicy Yankee Burger, and those sausages (nine varieties) well, they get even better— any of them can be topped with two eggs, any style for $6.00.
Breakfast favorites abound, whether you’re looking for Brioche French Toast, a simple stuffed omelette in the velvety, uncolored French style, or poached eggs “en cocotte” with caramelized onions, mushrooms and bubbly Gruyère. Best of all is the classic Croque Madame, topped with an oozing sunny-side egg, and the super crisp, triangular hash brown cakes served in a miniature iron skillet.
For little kids, the horribly hungover and serious sweet tooths alike, nothing will end your bountiful brunch on a better note than DBGB Kitchen & Bar’s spectacular sundaes. There’s a Cassis Beer Yogurt with Speculoos Cookie, Rainbow Meringue, and Black Currant Compote too. But for the sake of the season you might consider the Caramel-Cider (with braised apple, marshmallow and oatmeal crumble). Of course, it’s impossible to go wrong with the indulgent chocolate chip cookie and brownie-flecked Coffee Mocha. Looks like Daniel Boulud has spent some quality time with a pint of Half Baked.
Haven’t we all.
AlwaysPartying: National Sausage Pizza Day
GutterGourmet — October 09, 2009
Porchetta Sausage Sicilian Pizza at Veloce Pizzeria.
October 11th is National Sausage Pizza Day. Before we begin to celebrate, let me quote the greatest Greek philosopher, Epicurus (Plato who?), who said, “anything can be improved by the addition of sausage.” Seriously, ‘sausage” is the only adjective worthy of modifying that holiest of nouns, ‘pizza,’ and Epicurus would have said that had he tasted the salsiccia pie at Veloce Pizzeria (view). It’s a great place to celebrate a sausage pizza holiday this Sunday or any day.
Veloce’s slogan is, “Never trust a round pie.” You start to agree after eating a crisp, square pie fresh from one of the ordinary gas ovens. But my vote for the city’s best sausage pizza goes not to a pizzaiolo, but to a butcher: Sarah Jenkins, a great chef and cookbook author, who can now be found working from the pulpit of Porchetta, her tiny storefront on East 7th Street. If you didn’t already know, she’s the genius who was tapped to supervise the production of Veloce’s “Grandma-style” pizzas. It’s her sausage that is on Veloce’s sausage pie (with rosemary, sage, fennel pollen, tomato sauce and mozzarella).
While slicing me a fatty porchetta sandwich al fresco at The New Amsterdam Market, Sarah told me that she uses exactly the same pork that she rolls into her incredible porchetta to make the fennel and fennel pollen sausages. Veloce actually calls the pie the “Porchetta Sausage,” which is delicious if redundant. Finally, a holiday everyone can celebrate (unless you’re a vegetarian or Kosher).
AlwaysPartying: Klee Brasserie’s Oktoberfest
GutterGourmet — September 30, 2009
Left to right, Frankfurter, Kase, Bockwurst, Knackwurst, Wiener, and Andalusian sausages.
Munich’s official Oktoberfest started weeks ago and ends this Sunday, but Klee Brasserie (view) kicked off its month-long celebration last night with an Oktoberfest Sausage and Beer Tasting. Chef Daniel Angerer said he’s horrified that the bacon wrapped hot dog covered with avocados and sour cream (the Chihuahua) Crif Dogs is New York City’s representative of American sausage. Making the ‘wurst’ of a bad situation, he found a sausage maker (a fellow Austrian ex-pat whose identity and upstate location he’s keeping secret) who shares his desire to bring Austrian “wurst kultur” to the city. Through the rest of the month, Angerer is rotating six wursts on Klee’s Oktoberfest menu (all available at the party) as well as several other notable dishes like a Jager Meatloaf, House-made Mangalitsa Strudel and an Oktoberfest Pizza.
AlwaysFresh: The New Amsterdam Market
Michelle Kiefer — September 17, 2009
Beautiful handmade pastas made by The Ravioli Store in Long Island City.
We really enjoyed wandering through the debut of the third annual New Amsterdam Market (view site) this past Sunday on South Street by the Seaport, and not just because of all the free samples of bread, chocolate and sausages. If you haven’t been yet, you have to check it out. There are more than 70 vendors selling everything from farm fresh produce to baked goods and cooked foods in the bustling atmosphere of legendary public market halls like London’s Borough Market.
You’ll be pleased to come across familiar names like Marlow & Sons, Saxelby Cheesemongers, and Sullivan Street Bakery as well as newcomers like Basis, which Grub Street noted is planning to open a retail store late fall, and Saltie, former chef Caroline Fidanza’s (Marlow & Sons and Diner) takeout spot/bakery, which is slated to open tomorrow in Williamsburg (378 Metropolitan Ave).
If you missed the market check out our great pictures, then get down there from 11am to 4pm on one of the next three remaining dates (10/25, 11/22 and 12/20).
Featured Dish: Gambas Com Acorda at Pão!
The Gluttoness — August 11, 2009
Gambas com Acorda at Pão!
Pão! co-owner, Frank Coelho, a native of Portugual, didn’t set out to reinvent the Portuguese culinary wheel, just recreate it on a quiet corner in SoHo. His regulars, many of whom are Portuguese and looking for a taste of home, rely on this quaint eatery at Spring and Greenwich for authentic Portuguese fare. Specialties at Pão! (restaurant page) include Caldo Verde, a kale-based soup with potato and linguica (mild Portuguese pork sausage) and Bacalhau and Braz, traditional sautéed cod with egg, onion and straw potatoes.
Pão means “bread” in Portuguese so it shouldn’t be a surprise that bread is a prominent ingredient in one of its signature dishes, Gambas com Acorda, Grilled Tiger Shrimp with Lemon Shellfish Bread Pudding. The beautiful, monochromatic dish features six juicy, butterflied tiger shrimp, which are practically bursting from their glistening orange shells to kiss the lemon-rosemary cream sauce dressing the plate. The shrimp tails are anchored in a mound of savory shellfish bread pudding that is riddled with bits of shrimp, scallop, clams and mussels. The pudding is made from the same broa de milho (wheat and corn bread) that adorns every table.
Gambas com Acorda is much like an Iberian shrimp and grits, with the warm bread pudding offering a smoother sensation than grits. The firm flesh of the shrimp complements the silky texture of the pudding, and the tangy lemon sauce balances its richness. The dish is perfectly paired with a crisp glass of vinho verde, a bright, clean, slightly carbonated ‘green wine’ made from unripe grapes.
Featured Brunch: L’Ecole, You Can Croque Home Again
Arthur Bovino — July 09, 2009
Steak Tartare with Quail Egg and Baguette Crouton at L’Ecole
It’s an odd feeling to get invited to brunch at a restaurant where you once cooked. It was one I experienced weeks ago at L’Ecole (restaurant page), the SoHo restaurant and public face of the French Culinary Institute (view site) where I graduated from the Classic Culinary Arts program in 2006.
Brunch includes a bread and pastry basket, appetizer and entrée, and coffee. Of eleven appetizers, we requested the four most popular and were advised to order the Seafood Sausage and the Steak Tartare. Passing up Smoked Salmon with Bagel and Cream Cheese and Fried Calamari was easy, not ordering Cauliflower or Onion Soups was more difficult. These excellent, classic soups hold nostalgic places in my heart from learning to make them here.
AlwaysInformed: Primo Picnic Baskets
The Gluttoness — June 17, 2009
Artisanal’s Bastille Basket
Tomorrow is National Picnic Day and we have the details on two pre-packaged picnic baskets that will make your celebration a cinch whether you want to keep it simple or go highbrow.
Picnics don’t get much more basic than peanut butter and jelly, but Peanut Butter & Co. takes this classic up a notch with their Summertime Picnic Basket. For $28 (plus tax) you can select two of the following different peanut butter sandwiches: a Lunchbox Special (classic pb&j with either strawberry, grape, apricot or raspberry preserves), a Cinnamon Raisin Swirl Sandwich (vanilla cream cheese and sliced apples), Peanut Butter Cup (peanut butter and Nutella) or Fluffernutter (peanut butter and Marshmallow Fluff). This basket also supplies: potato chips, carrot sticks, two sodas, two peanut butter cookies and even after-picnic mints.
Artisanal has launched a more refined array of French-inspired picnic baskets this summer. They’re made to order and start at $75. One standout, the Bastille Basket ($115), includes a selection of French cheese, Saucisson Sec and two jars, one of cornichons and the other of Les Folies du Fromages fruit spread. The included Madeleines make for a sweet ending and the cute wicker basket is useful for future picnics or trips to the beach. The baskets aren’t on Artisanal’s website yet, so orders should be placed by phone at (212)532-4033. They can be picked up or delivered within Manhattan.
With either option, all you will need to do is to grab a bottle of Domain Ott, a French baguette and you’ll be picnic-ready. Here’s to hoping your plans don’t get rained out by this daunting June weather.
AlwaysPartying: Big Apple BBQ Block Party
June 16, 2009
Blue Smoke’s Kansas City Ribs & Pickled Okra
The Big Apple BBQ Block Party this past weekend was a blast— full of smoke, “hog coffins,” fire, sauces and genuine, get your hands dirty eating. We even ran into some lucky winners of our Big Apple BBQ FastPass Giveaway on the express lines. Everything was delicious, but of course, we had our favorites, which we ranked below. Check out our photographs of pure BBQ goodness on the jump along with a field report from the GutterGourmet.
Click here for a field report from GutterGourmet & AlwaysHungryNY.com's BABBQ pictures >>
HungryChefs: Chefs Love Lupa, Mixed on Hot Dogs
The Gluttoness — June 11, 2009
Roasted Pork Shoulder “Gyro” with Pickled Cucumber & Yogurt from Anthos at Street & Savory
Some of the country’s best chefs attended Citymeals-on-Wheels’ Street & Savory Tasting Event. We’ve already brought you pictures of all the dishes and rounded up our favorite plates, but we were also able to speak with the chefs.
Our questions were obvious: What are you AlwaysHungry for? Which New York City restaurant do you crave? And in keeping with the night’s theme: what would you serve if you opened your own street cart? Some chefs took the easy route, promoting dishes they had prepared for the evening, others were quite creative with their responses.
AlwaysHungryNY: Savory Chocolate Sandwiches
The Gluttoness — June 04, 2009
Slathering chocolate on white bread is a standard combination that has been well-documented and fully-developed, but two New York restaurants, Tía Pol and The Smile, are experimenting with more adventurous chocolate sandwich combinations. Their additions of savory ingredients have turned this sweet from a common confection into a surprising condiment.
Tía Pol’s bocadillo, the Niño Rebelde ($9), translates as “rebellious child,” but it’s only rebellious in theory. This juxtaposition of melted chocolate and smoky chorizo is actually a very natural fit. The crisp baguette-like bread absorbs the gooey chocolate, which isn’t too sweet because it’s dark and 60% cocoa. The thinly-sliced chorizo adds a textural chew and a lingering spice reminiscent of Mexican Hot Chocolate. It goes from interesting to addictive after the first bite.
The Smile’s Chocolate and Brie Baguette displays a rivalry of richness between the liquid chocolate and creamy brie, contrasted wonderfully by the thick, crusty baguette. The bread’s faintest touch of salt enables the cheese and chocolate flavors to boldly pop as they meld together in seamless deliciousness. The sandwich is served at lunch, but it could easily double as a dessert.
AlwaysTraveling: Cal Pep (Barcelona, Spain)
Jeff Zalaznick — June 03, 2009
Cal Pep is synonymous with the great Tapas and seafood of Barcelona, and has been nestled in a small square just north of the Plaça de Palau since 1977. There is no question that its chef and owner, Josep “Pep” Manubens Figueras (now approaching 60), serves Barcelona’s best tapas. Pep is known for his seafood, specifically, Razor Clams and Frito Misto, (one taste will inform you why) and in a way, his prowess is partially responsible for the abundance of those clams that we currently find being served around New York. Yes, I am giving him credit for Razor Clams. The trick to Cal Pep is go for lunch (if you’re a tourist, it’s near the Picasso Museum, which makes for a nice morning), and show up 15 minutes before they open their doors. It’s important to play close attention to the time, because if you show up ten minutes before they open, you’ll be waiting for more than a full turn to be seated. This has now been proven three times— take it for what it is.
The restaurant itself is tiny—you sit at the 20-stool bar and eat what they give you from the open kitchen. It’s also well known for its frying prowess and some fixtures of the seasonal menu not to be missed include the Fried Artichokes and the plate of fried-egg topped, deep-fried, inch-long fish, called Llengeta. In my mind, what they should be most famous for is their Tortilla Tempana. I can say with great confidence that it is the best that I have ever had in my life. It is served warm, which seems obvious but is so rarely done, and is truly a slice of Spanish heaven. When they are done with their work, they encourage you to request more. I was applauded for my last minute addition of Steak and Butifarra, and received a departing hug from Pep himself.
You can go to Cal Pep for dinner, and you can even make a reservation for large parties in the back, but the place you want to be is at the bar for lunch. To continue the seafood extravaganza into dinner, you should try their more formal restaurant nearby, Passadis del Pep, which serves one of the finest seafood meals I have ever ingested.
This is the Mecca. This is where Mario and Joe went to get inspiration for Casa Mono. This is where the tortilla at Mercat is copied from. This is the place.
Restaurant: Cal Pep
Address: Plaça Olles 8, 08003 Barcelona, Spain (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Tortilla, Butifarra con Foie a l’Oporto, Almejas con Jamón, Fritto Misto
Razor Clams
Foie Gras Butifarra Sausage with White Beans & Port Reduction
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