James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

AlwaysHolidays: On the Tenth Day of Christmas

Technically, the Twelve Days of Christmas don’t start until Christmas Day, but we’re already in the spirit. To celebrate over the next two days, here’s the carol, ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, featuring some dishes we tasted in 2009 that we’d be willing to sing about.

Ten Lords a Leaping. Lords/gourds (gourds include: melons, squash, pumpkins, and cucumbers). Leaping/heaping. Hey, these higher numbers get tough.

Today’s verse for this Christmas food carol begins:

On the tenth day of Christmas, my waiter brought to me… ten gourds a-heaping,

 

From Bobo, Chocolate Pudding.

Click Here for Dishes and Lyrics >>

AlwaysHolidays: On the Sixth Day of Christmas

Technically, the Twelve Days of Christmas don’t start until Christmas Day, but we’re already in the spirit. To celebrate over the next six days, here’s the carol, ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, featuring some dishes we tasted in 2009 that we’d be willing to sing about.

Six Geese a Laying. Geese laying…eggs. Of course. Great New York City egg dishes.

Accordingly, today our Christmas food carol begins:

On the sixth day of Christmas my waiter brought to me… six eggs for feasting,

 

Clockwise from top left: Mesa Coyoacan’s Chilaquile with Poached Eggs, Wildwood Barbecue Southside Benedict, Katz’s Hot Pastrami and Scrambled Eggs, ‘inoteca & Liquori Bar Truffle Egg Toast, Sorella’s Pate de Fegato, SHO Shaun Hergatt’s Slow Poached Egg.

Click Here for Lyrics >>

AlwaysPartying: New York Taste 2009

Top, Bobo’s Chocolate Pudding, Cocoa Nibs and Salted Pumpkin Seeds. Left, Chef Masaharu Morimoto. Right, Chef Susur Lee with Doron Wong.

Pumpkin, pork belly and crispy trotters— fall and its comfort-inspiring dishes were in full swing last night at Skylight for the eleventh annual charity tasting event, New York Taste 2009 (site). New York Magazine, partnered with City Harvest (of course) to host quite a party with some terrific food, and AlwaysHungryNY.com was on hand to taste amuses from more than 40 restaurants. It was hard to resist seconds of savory favorites like Public’s Sweet and Salty Fried Fanny Bay Oysters, and SHO Shaun Hergatt’s 3-Day Short Rib, but room had to be saved for Bobo’s Chocolate Pudding, Wallsé‘s tremendous Milchrahmstrudel, and Buddakan’s Cashew Daquoise with Coffee Ice Cream.

From Porter House New York’s Chili-Rubbed Brisket Sliders to Le Cirque’s Squab Tortelli, we’ve selected our top ten favorites and included other mouth-watering dishes in a beautiful slideshow.

Click Here for More Food and Chef Pictures from New York Taste 2009 >>

Featured Dish: SHO’s Three Day Short Rib

Three Day Short Rib with Hazelnut and Cranberry Crust and Parsnip Purée. Left, short rib, about to be plated. Right, Shaun Hergatt at work.

It has been a while since I checked in with Chef Shaun Hergatt. Since I first waxed-poetic about SHO (view) it gained a star in the 2010 Michelin guide, was cited in Esquire’s 20 Best New Restaurants of 2009 and received an unofficial 29 rating in the 2010 Zagat guide. High time to visit the chef.

Click Here for More About Shaun Hergatt's Three Day Short Rib >>

AlwaysInformed: The Losses and Gains of Summer ‘09

Dubbed by some as the Summer of Death, the 2009 summer season has certainly experienced its fair share of losses. Joining the dearly departed of the celebrity world are several beloved and well-respected, recently shuttered New York City restaurants. In their honor, AlwaysHungryNY.com has compiled a list of the dishes we’ll miss and why miss them. Of course, where something is lost there’s generally something gained. So with that in mind we included and annotated our favorite new crave-worthy dishes from restaurants that opened during the summer.

What We Lost

Clockwise from top: The John Dory’s Hangtown Fry, French Fries, and Oyster Pan Roast.

Restaurant: The John Dory, closed 8/29/09

The Hangtown Fry “The John Dory’s rendition has to rank up there with the city’s best egg dishes. Eggs are creamy. Bacon is substituted with a thick prosciutto that has the texture of tender corned beef. Slices of pickled jalapeño add bursts of a light vinegary flavor and heat also spread throughout the dish. The oysters are only slightly cooked. The pooled flavors lining the plate’s bottom when you finish are worth wiping up with the delicious Parker House rolls.” (read more)

Oyster Pan Roast & French Fries “Plump, warm, bathed in cream, I needn’t more than a bite to know this classic would be my favorite dish at The John Dory. A perfect bite is to dip a fry in the oyster pan roast. Incidentally, if crisp is an overused word by food writers, this is its definition.” (read more)

Click Here for the full list >>

FirstLook: SHO Shaun Hergatt

It’s rare that I’m speechless, but last Thursday night’s preview dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt stunned me into my first satisfied oblivion of 2009. Executive Chef Sean Hergatt has spent two years turning the concrete canvas within The Setai New York into a modern Asian masterpiece with simple elegance and ruby red accents. An expansive glass wall separates diners from the theatrics of the grand kitchen and many of the tables face Hergatt’s “stage” where he commands his dutiful “players.” You witness meticulousness then taste it.

The striking décor is matched by the drama of SHO’s impeccable food, which the chef described as “Asian-accented, modern French cuisine.” Hergatt is a brawny Australian with a sweet smile—the unexpected artist behind brilliantly feminine dishes that are as artistically inclined as they are sophisticated in flavor. There’s a continual dance between delicacy and decadence. Riveting taste always wins, but it’s the manner in which it’s achieved that is so interesting.

 

Duo of Canapes: Crêpe w/ Tobiko & Sour Cream over Lime & Sesame Seed Tuille w/ Whitefish Tartare

Two velvety crêpes were filled with tobiko and sour cream, then tied in purses, served over thin slices of lime and topped with gold leaf. Two sesame seed tuilles were rolled like cigars and stuffed with whitefish tartare. There was an impressive equilibrium between the rich insides and the subtle exteriors.

Click here for AlwaysHungry's full First Look at Sho Shaun Hergatt >>

AlwaysInformed: Sho Looking for Chefs

Things are finally moving down at The Setai on Wall Street. The lobby has finally abandoned its scaffolding and the chic interior is now on full display on Broad Street. While that may be exciting if you’re looking for a trendy hotel room in the Financial District, the big news is that The Setai is gearing up for their own restaurant, Sho. Slated for the fall of 2008, Sho will be captained by Corporate Executive Chef Shaun Hergatt, whose success at The Restaurant at The Setai in Miami has made him the obvious choice for this new venture.

His plans to create modern French cuisine with bold Asian accents sounds like a plan for surefire success since both fine dining French and Asian cuisine are non-existent in the depths of Southern Manhattan. The contemporary restaurant will have room for 120, and if the neighborhood reflects the clientele, 100 of those people will be suit-clad Wall Streeters. It may not be the same scene as Miami, but if the food is great, the hipsters will come.

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