AlwaysInvestigating: Revisiting The 5 & Diamond
Arthur Bovino — August 16, 2010
“Philly Cheese Steak” at The 5 and Diamond in Harlem.
We visited The 5 and Diamond in April to sample Ryan Skeen’s tasting menu. It was stellar. Japanese Sea Urchin with Hamachi Belly on Pork Rind, Lamb Loin and Belly with Carrot Purée, and Rabbit and Ratatouille Sausage Spaetzle. The pièce de résistance? Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel, an homage to La Maison Troigros’ signature L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. The only questions: 1) how long would Skeen stay? 2) would Harlem support the cuisine? Answers came quickly.
Skeen landed at Sweetiepie. But as things go, an answer begat a question. As Sarah DiGregorio reported in the Voice, The 5 and Diamond’s chef de cuisine, David Santos, had a larger role than was clear. This is to say that with an open invitation from a chef in charge of his menu it was time to revisit.
The tasting menu at The 5 and Diamond >>
First Look: 5 & Diamond
Arthur Bovino — April 19, 2010
Duo of Lamb: Loin, Belly, Carrot Puree, Ramps, and Morels.
Ryan Skeen’s new glass-fronted restaurant in Harlem had only been open about a week and there were rumors of trouble. Then last week another headline speculated that the chef was already on his way out.
Basta.
Culinary crystal ball set aside, there’s a little detail to be discussed: the food. We recently visited 5 & Diamond on the night of its inaugural tasting menu to check out a restaurant that should be getting more attention for the plates coming out of the kitchen.
Paying Homage: Troisgros’ Salmon and Sorrel
Arthur Bovino — April 19, 2010
An occasional feature that celebrates well-known dishes, and those that pay homage to them.
From left: L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille (Recette Originelle de 1965) at La Maison Troisgros in Roanne, and Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel at 5 & Diamond in Harlem.
For its recent gentrification, you still probably wouldn’t have expected to see an homage in Harlem to what is perhaps the world’s most famous salmon dish. But that is exactly what you’ll find with the Grilled Salmon and Wild Sorrel at chef Ryan Skeen’s 5 & Diamond.
First, a little background, and a culinary history reminder. Along with Paul Bocuse, it was Jean and Pierre Troigros of La Maison Troisgros, who pioneered nouvelle cuisine. And the signature dish at La Maison Troigros is of course, L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. As previously noted, Pierre’s son, Michel Troisgros, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Marie-Pierre, still serves the Recette Originelle de 1965 of this famous dish at the three Michelin-starred restaurant in Roanne, France.
HungryChefs: Tap & Tapas
Arthur Bovino — April 21, 2009
Last night fourteen of New York’s most popular chefs gathered in the Westside Loft for dance charity, Groove with Me’s 5th annual Tap & Tapas spring benefit event. Founded in 1996 by Abigail Rosin, Groove With Me is a nonprofit youth development organization that enlists more than 40 volunteer dance teachers to provide free dance classes to inner city girls. For $150, guests were privy to tastes that ranged from Almond Vichyssoise and Bombay “Radga,” to Crispy Pork Cheeks and Confit Lamb’s Belly. All this while watching ballet and tap performances by some of the girls who have benefitted from time volunteered by Groove With Me’s dance teachers and a performance by renowned tapper, Savion Glover (Bring in Da Noise Bring in Da Funk).
The best starter belonged to Top Chef’s Season One winner, Chef Harold Dieterle of Perilla. He brought Taylor Bay Scallops with Pickled Green Papaya Mignonette which had a slight spicy kick. There were several strong, hearty amuses. Chef Floyd Cardoz of Tabla served his version of “Ragda” a Mumbai street food consisting of Stewed Peas with Tamarind and Mint Chutney topped with Chickpea Noodles. Table 8’s Chef Govind Amstrong prepared Seared Striped Bass with Sauteéd Cauliflower and a Caper Dill Vinaigrette. And Chef Ryan Skeen of Irving Mill really brought it with a mouth-watering Crispy Lamb Belly with Chickpea Purée (shown left) accompanied by Kumquaat and Grapefruit Marmalade and Goat Cheese Purée (you can find it on his new Spring menu at the end of the week).
A light, sweet touch was added by Erin McKenna’s (Babycakes NYC) gluten-free, vegan Brownie Bites, which were delicious despite their description. But it was the “Egg” dessert (shown right) by Le Bernardin’s Michael Laiskonis which held the spotlight. The dessert was served in a hollowed, brown egg shell minus the top. Inside, the shell was filled with Chocolate Cream, Caramel Foam, several drops of Maple Syrup and sprinkled with Maldon Sea Salt—we had seconds.
During the event we had a few moments to speak with some of the chefs about some of the things they’re currently most excited about.
Click here for the Tap & Tapas Menu and to read our Chef Round-Up >>
AlwaysInformed: Farm to Table Purists
March 24, 2009
The weather has finally started to improve and Spring is upon us at last, which means that restaurants with outdoor seating can once again put out their sidewalk tables. But, if that isn’t a direct enough connection with nature for you, the Outstanding in the Field
project has taken this concept one step further, by literally creating a mobile “restaurant without walls.” Basically, the organizers set up long tables at various scenic locations around the country, where they host locally-sourced feasts prepared by renowned chefs from the area. This coming August, dinners will be held at the EECO Farm in East Hampton, Queens Farm in Queens, and La Plaza Cultural in Manhattan, with food prepared by big-name chefs like Bill Telepan of Telepan and Ryan Skeen of Irving Mill. Check out their website for more information and details about upcoming events in other cities.
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