DishDoppelgänger: Avocado Roll

The Gluttoness — September 24, 2009

You know you’ve been caught looking at celebrity look-alike features in tabloids on the supermarket line or when surfing online. Well, we’re applying the concept to well-known dishes and others that resemble them. And why not, for those of us interested in food, Thomas Keller’s Oysters and Pearls dish is just as iconic as Jay Leno’s chin. As soon as a doppelgänger dish emerges, you better believe we’ll spot it.

Eleven Madison Park’s Hawaiian Prawns: Roulade with Avocado, Lime & Yogurt.

While undoubtedly the most beautiful of this group of dishes, the Hawaiian Prawns inside Eleven Madison Park’s (restaurant page) avocado roulade weren’t seasoned enough to stand up to the luscious draping of avocado. The richness of the slivered fruit overpowered the subtle flavors of the stuffing, and an accompanying yogurt sauce only enhanced the palatable creaminess. While the sensual mouthfeel was attractive to the tongue, the flavors weren’t intriguing enough to keep your mind interested.

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AlwaysInvestigating: Doing the Japanese Boogie

The Gluttoness — September 22, 2009

There will always be trends in menu writing. It has been popular for a while to source ingredients, like with Eleven Madison Park’s citing Four Story Hill Farm’s suckling pig and Momofuku Noodle Bar highlighting Bev Eggleston’s pork belly. Then there’s the trend of using quotation marks for kitschy effects, most notably overused by David Burke, take for example, Fishtail’s Swordfish “Steak Frites” or davidburke townhouse’s Lobster “Pot Pie.”

Recently, I’ve noticed a trend of anthropomorphism on Japanese menus, in particular the use of the term “dancing” to describe dishes. And while I wasn’t expecting anything to waltz across the table, one of the three examples of these dishes I found did come close to performing the Japanese boogie.

Spicy Dancing Shrimp at barMasa.

The fried prawns in barMasa’s, “Spicy Dancing Shrimp” ($26) have an unbelievably delicate coating. The airy, accompanying shells (edible elements) were fanned away from the flesh of the shrimp, whose gradual spice builds to a culinary crescendo. Best eaten alone, their heavenly crispness melts on the tongue like shrimp chips. Creamy, spicy mayonnaise made for a rich accoutrement. A sprinkle of shiso pepper enhanced the fiery flavor, but fresh lemon juice assuaged the flames with a bright, citrus tang.

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FirstLook: SHO Shaun Hergatt

The Gluttoness — June 08, 2009

It’s rare that I’m speechless, but last Thursday night’s preview dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt stunned me into my first satisfied oblivion of 2009. Executive Chef Sean Hergatt has spent two years turning the concrete canvas within The Setai New York into a modern Asian masterpiece with simple elegance and ruby red accents. An expansive glass wall separates diners from the theatrics of the grand kitchen and many of the tables face Hergatt’s “stage” where he commands his dutiful “players.” You witness meticulousness then taste it.

The striking décor is matched by the drama of SHO’s impeccable food, which the chef described as “Asian-accented, modern French cuisine.” Hergatt is a brawny Australian with a sweet smile—the unexpected artist behind brilliantly feminine dishes that are as artistically inclined as they are sophisticated in flavor. There’s a continual dance between delicacy and decadence. Riveting taste always wins, but it’s the manner in which it’s achieved that is so interesting.

Duo of Canapes: Crêpe w/ Tobiko & Sour Cream over Lime & Sesame Seed Tuille w/ Whitefish Tartare

Two velvety crêpes were filled with tobiko and sour cream, then tied in purses, served over thin slices of lime and topped with gold leaf. Two sesame seed tuilles were rolled like cigars and stuffed with whitefish tartare. There was an impressive equilibrium between the rich insides and the subtle exteriors.

Click here for AlwaysHungry's full First Look at Sho Shaun Hergatt >>