Always Investigating: Marco Polo Café

GutterGourmet — May 12, 2010

Moo Goo Gai Panini at Marco Polo Café in the East Village.

Did Marco Polo introduce Italy to pasta by bringing Chinese noodles along the Silk Road in the 13th century? Who cares? His namesake café on St. Marks was conceived on what was probably a myth, but the mélange of Italian and Chinese dishes at this 8-seater on St. Marks is for real.

It culminates with the signature dish: Moo Goo Gai Panini. The owners, a husband-and-wife team (she Chinese, he Italian-American) do much of the cooking too, behind a shoji screen partitioning the room.

Start with the scallion-topped Shanghai pan-seared pork buns. Then the savory, steamed Char Siu Bao that are stuffed with minced pork. They do not suffer from the sticky-sweet red sauce found in many dim sum palaces, and are available (with a variety of wontons and dumplings) prepackaged to steam at home. Marco Polo Café also offers ravioli and dumpling pairings, and recently added a Chicken Empanada at the suggestion of their Latin American cook.

Not everything works— an Italian Tuscan Bison Meatball sandwich on spongy bread is better left untasted. But the signature dish will convert even the anti-fusion purists. The Moo Goo Gai Panini sounds like a bicycle crash involving Chinese and Italian take-out delivery boys, but it is fantastic. Tender, white chicken is blanketed by fontina, mixed with scallions and crunchy pickles, then pressed in chewy, griddle-marked bread. There are shitakes in lieu of the traditional Moo Goo button mushrooms.

Chinese? Italian? Delicious.

Location: Marco Polo Café
Address: 102 St. Marks Place
Contact: (212) 228-8456

Featured Restaurant: Baohaus

GutterGourmet — March 10, 2010

The Royal Frush at Baohaus, and a can of Hey Song Sarsparilla Taiwanese Root Beer.

Eddie Huang’s Baohaus on Rivington is attracting Taiwanese (and everyone else) looking for Gua Bao buns—authentic Taiwanese street food.

Huang, a third generation Baozi-maker opened it partially as a tribute to his F.O.B. (“fresh off the boat”) mother, and partially to improve on the City’s Taiwanese steamed bun game. Mostly he wanted to serve New Yorkers, like his buddies at Artichoke (for whom he designed the T-Shirts, and the Led Zeppole logo), something fucking good to eat. With raves from the New York Times, and nods from the Food Network, people are lining up out the door for his real deal Taiwanese street vendor fare.

Click here for more from Baohaus >>

AlwaysInformed: Dim Sum Deal at Jing Fong

Arthur Bovino — March 09, 2010

Clockwise from top: Jing Fong in Chinatown, Beef and Shrimp Shao Mai, food carts, Tapioca Dessert.

An escalator up a passageway lit by crystal chandeliers spills you out into a vast, gilded dining room filled with blue neon, and table after table. There is a constant chatter in Cantonese, and different smells rising in clouds of steam from carts as they pass through the crowd.

So it is at Jing Fong Restaurant on Elizabeth Street, the Chinatown dim sum hotspot with an enticing weekday special (left) that should not be forgotten. Just be wary of the small print: “All promotions are subject to change without notice.” A meal can end with haggling the bill as if you had been transported to a market in Hong Kong. Even if you think you may have paid a few extra dollars for being a gweilo (foreigner), you can still walk out feeling as if you are about to burst with dim sum without having spent a fortune. It’s especially fun for a long lunch, if you can get away from the office.

For those who haven’t been, the more adventurous rites of passage include: Chicken Feet with Black Bean Sauce, Boiled Pig Stomach, and Honeycomb Tripe. Everyone seems to find at least one of these dishes enjoyable— at Always Hungry that’s the Tripe (chicken feet involve too much work for too little payoff). It may not be as pretty as some of the versions we love around town, but it’s still good.

More Dim Sum Photographs >>

AlwaysPartying: National Pig Day

Maryse Chevrière — March 01, 2010

Whole Roast Pig from the Second Annual Pig Roast and Dance Party.

What better way to kickoff a month than to celebrate the almighty pig? Today, March 1st is National Pig Day, and in its honor we have compiled pictures of some of our favorite dishes celebrating this glorious animal in all of its delicious forms. Feast your eyes of the Pig-apalooza.

Click for Pig Porn >>

Featured Dish: Da Andrea’s “Le Tigelle”

The Gluttoness — September 10, 2009

“Le Tigelle,” Composed Flat Bun with ‘Parma’ Imported Prosciutto at Da Andrea off Union Square.

When you think pork buns, it’s the Asian version, Char Siu Bao, which most likely comes to mind. But the next time you’re craving a swine sandwich there’s a decidedly Italian option at Da Andrea (restaurant page). Forced to relocate from Hudson to 13th Street, their signature baked-to-order Flat Buns with ‘Parma’ Imported Prosciutto ($11.00) have found a larger audience in their new digs.

Da Andrea’s chef-owner, Gian Pietro Branchi, modeled this dish on “Le Tigelle Modenesi,” an appetizer he said you will typically find in Modena, Italy, the region of Emilia-Romagna which inspires much of his restaurant’s cuisine. In Modena, he said, the buns are usually served with a variety of cold cuts like Salami, Coppa and Mortadella (similar to the accompaniments in Via Emilia’s Gnocco Fritto). But the chef chose to serve just prosciutto (give the customer too many options and things get complicated). Each order is displayed on a wooden tray covered with a generous layer of “prosciutto crudo di parma,” a stack of seven piping hot buns and a small ramekin of grated Parmesan. All are combined to create the ultimate Italian-style pork bun.

The flat buns resemble silver dollar flapjacks, although their crisp, browned exteriors are nothing like the outside of a pancake. Once sliced open, fragrant steam emerges from the soft doughy insides— the perfect melting ground for a spoonful of Parmesan cheese. The marbled fat of the thinly sliced prosciutto also benefits from the warmth— the natural oils infuse the thin buns with robust flavor. The saltiness of the cheese and cured meat provide ample seasoning and with a little applied pressure you can create an instant prosciutto panino.

Whether you’re looking to savor a quick bite with a glass of wine or use these buns as the ultimate bread basket, this simple, do-it-yourself dish is a delicious, addictive experience. The only place you’re likely to find a better bite is in Modena, where it’s usually served with rosemary and garlic lardo.

AlwaysInvestigating: New Buns on the Block

The Gluttoness — September 09, 2009

Until now, your best bet for pork buns (not counting Chinatown) was below 14th Street, the Goliaths being, Momofuku Ssäm and Noodle Bar. During the past few months Midtown has sprouted new restaurants that serve Chinese steamed pork buns (char siu bao).

Mantou Chinese Sandwiches, on the East Side (view site), is a sliver of a restaurant specializing in sandwiches on “sesame seed-studded, steamed mantou—a traditional Chinese steamed bread …a staple of Northern Chinese cuisine.” On the West Side is Xie Xie (restaurant page), which is Mandarin for “Thank you.” Xie Xie’s five-item Asian sandwich concept is helmed by Chef Angelo Sosa, who was executive sous-chef at Jean Georges for four years. Both places have a counter for ordering and seating, but these interpretations showcase two styles.

Mantou serves two buns, Spicy Pork or Braised Pork (each costs $3.95). Instead of buying them individually you can opt for the $9.95 Combo Box which includes any two sandwiches with a side salad and shrimp chips. The buns look like Big Mac’s but are soft and luscious like fluffy English muffins.

Mantou’s Braised Pork Bun.

Mantou’s spongy bun envelops thick, tender slices of braised fatty pork. It’s dressed with crunchy slivers of cucumber, cilantro, and hoisin, which ensure fresh well-rounded flavors and juicy sweetness that balance the rich flavor of the salty pork. The first taste (with a little Sambal) was the best. Unfortunately, the next bite included the chewy end of the roast.

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SEARCH: Good, Downtown Ramen for a Rainy Night

June 05, 2009

It’s miserable outside— perfect soup weather. A bowl of Ramen should do the trick. Just select, cuisine type: Ramen, neighborhood: Downtown, and Grade: B+ or above in our Very Advanced Search and you’ll be warming up your belly with AlwaysHungry approved noodle goodness in no time.

1. Ramen Setagaya 141 1st Avenue

Recommended Dishes: Shiso Ramen, Salt Eggs

2. Ippudo NY 65 4th Avenue

Recommended Dishes: Akamaru Modern Ramen (pictured), Chicken Wings, Pork Buns

3. Men Kui Tei 63 Cooper Square

Recommended Dishes: Gyoza, Edamame, Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen

4. Momofuku Noodle Bar 171 1st Avenue

Recommended Dishes: Pork Buns, Momofuku Ramen, Smoked Chicken Wings, Rice Cakes

5. Rai Rai Ken 214 E. 10th Street

Recommended Dishes: Gyoza, Pork Fried Rice, Roast Pork with Scallions, Miso Ramen with Pork

AlwaysInvestigating: Kurve’s Wagyu Burger

The Hungry Goat — April 30, 2009

One thing’s for certain, you would never accuse Kurve of being predictable. From the beginning, chef/owner Andy Yang had us all on our toes with his restaurant’s peekaboo open-shutter-reopen debut. Since its “official” September launch, the perennially plagued establishment has become just as notorious for being chronically empty as for its difficult-to-categorize, Asian fare—the eclectic, disjointed menu even left the great Bruni scratching his head. A recent discovery had us feeling the same way. What could be more unpredictable than a seriously great burger made by a “contemporary” Thai restaurant with a Eurotrash dance-club aesthetic?

Click here to read about Kurve's Wagyu Burger >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Ippudo’s Buns

The Hungry Goat — April 17, 2009

Whoever said that steamed buns are the new banh mi was definitely on to something. Now that the wildly popular Vietnamese sandwich has had its glamorous New York Times Dining cover story, the New York City gastrosphere is hungry for its next Asian snack obsession.

Of course, David Chang’s Momofuku team deserves credit for getting the ball rolling on this Asian open-faced bun craze, with Fatty Crab later adding fuel to the fire. And now, it seems that imitations of this signature open style are popping up on menus all over town. As we reported earlier this week, Rickshaw Dumpling Bar has hopped on the bandwagon with their new Braised Pork Belly and Bulgogi Beef Buns, and Macao Trading Co. started featuring a version on their Late Night Menu last week.

Ippudo’s buns are another example of this trend. Buns are sold two per order ($8), either pork belly (above left) or chicken (above right). Both are served on thick, doughy steamed buns (larger than Rickshaw or Momofuku), and are dressed with fresh lettuce and a squirt of mayo. While not as interesting as Momofuku’s crunchy pickled cucumbers, the crisp iceberg lettuce provides a welcome textural contrast, particularly to the pork. The pork belly, while tender, could benefit from a thicker slice, but the nutty, savory sauce adds depth and a generous dose of heat.

The lettuce/mayo favor combination is reminiscent of the flavor of a McDonald’s McChicken sandwich in the best way possible. As expected, the pork bun is far superior to the chicken. This pork bun is without a doubt a Top 5 contender, and a fine accompaniment to a bowl of the city’s best ramen. As a side note, though the chicken bun is lackluster, if you are in the mood for chicken, the peppery sesame seed-coated crispy Chicken Wings (shown right) are absolutely outstanding.

AlwaysInvestigating: Rickshaw’s Buns

Arthur Bovino — April 14, 2009

Having recently heard about Rickshaw Dumpling Bar’s foray into steamed Asian Buns we headed over to check them out. There are two buns on the offer: the Braised Pork Slider (left) with braised pork belly, Chinese barbecue sauce and Asian cabbage slaw, and a Bulgogi Beef Bun (right) with sautéed ground beef patty, onion, sesame, Korean chili sauce and pickled vegetables. Buns go two per order for $6.

The buns were fine—lovingly prepared if ever so slightly stale. The Pork Belly Bun was moist and dressed with a sweet, apple-scented sauce mildly reminiscent of maple syrup. It was the obvious winner. Not bad for fast food—not bad at all. You could eat two orders of these and leave happy. The pickled julienned carrots, sprouts and scallions were pleasantly fresh and the sauce on the Bulgogi Beef Bun was an enjoyable ratio of salty to sweet with about a half-second of spicy heat. The meat itself? To paraphrase the late Senator Lloyd Bentsen, “Rickshaw, we’ve served Bulgogi. We know Bulgogi. Bulgogi is a friend of ours. Rickshaw, that ain’t no Bulgogi.”

Imagine an Asian McDonald’s McRib sandwich patty—that’s the bulgogi beef patty. Stick with the pork belly. Unless, you love the McRib of course, in which case, you will love the Bulgogi Beef Bun.

The only reason to even mention David Chang’s pork buns in the same breath as these buns, is to cite their responsibility in the recent proliferation of this open, folded-over preparation style.

Menus Made Simple: Shang

February 24, 2009

To truly be AlwaysHungry, one must fluently speak food in at least five languages, but as you journey towards enlightenment there will be times when a menu presents too many obstacles. Enter Menus Made Simple: our way of making sure that you are properly prepared before you go to a restaurant. There is nothing more annoying than asking the waiter a thousand questions, and now you can save yourself the embarrassment.

Osmanthi: Flowering plants native to East Asia. The tiny, white flowers bloom every season except winter and have a strong fragrance and floral flavor.

Burdock Root: The root of the burdock plant is best known for its prickly heads that resemble thistles. Burdock is grown in many nations but it is native to Asia where the roots are commonly used in the cuisine. They have a brownish-red outer layer and pale gray flesh inside. The flavor of young burdock root resembles that of an artichoke while older roots tend to become bitter.
Magret Duck Breast with Osmanthi Flower Chili Honey & Braised Burdock Root

Tong Yuan: Eaten in Singapore to celebrate Don Zhi, these gummy dumplings are made from glutinous rice dough that is rolled into marble-sized balls and are often served in soup. The balls are boiled and are ready to eat when they float. Any additional flavor and color can be added to the dough during the kneading process.
Traditional Warm Black Sesame & Peanut Tong Yuan, Grapes, Watercress & Osmanthi Honey Consommé

Water Shield (aka Dollar Bonnet): Perennial, aquatic “herb” with floating oval-shaped leaves that are green on top and reddish-purple underneath with small, light-purple flowers that rise above the surface. Water sheild imparts a light, fresh essence although it has no distinct taste, instead it takes on the flavor of the soup with which it’s often prepared.
Kelp-Marinated Seared Kobe Beef with Pickled Vegetables, Water Shield, Browned Butter Soy & Wasabi

Char Siu (aka Barbequed/Roast Pork): This type of sui mei (Cantonese roast pork) literally translates to “fork roast” after the traditional method of preparation. Long strips of seasoned, boneless pork are skewered with long forks and placed in a covered oven or over a fire. The meat, typically a shoulder, is seasoned with a mixture of honey, five-spice powder, fermented tofu, dark soy sauce, hoisin sauce, red food coloring and sherry or rice wine vinegar which turns the exterior layer of the meat a dark red.
Shaved Char Siu Pork Loin with Hot Mustard Green Bean, Lily Bulb & Almondine Salad

Mantou: A dough made from wheat flour, water and leavening ingredients that is commonly used to make Chinese steamed buns.
Whole Wheat Mantou Bread/Foie Gras & Chicken Liver Pate with Green Onion Pancakes, Wheat Mantou Crisps & Black Currant Jam

Lemon Balm: An herb in the mint family native to Europe and the Mediterranean. The name comes from the leaves’ slight lemon scent and it’s often used as a flavoring element in ice cream and herbal teas.
Crispy Lobster, Salted Duck Egg, Lemon Balm, Shallot & Chili Lime Juice in Lettuce Wrap

Pennywort (aka Brazilian Water Ivy): Bright green-stemmed plants with round leaves and low-growing habits. The plants do not need be rooted and thrive best in aquatic, marshy environments. Their flavor is marked by a slight, bitter tang.
Thin Sliced Octopus with Tomatillo, Tomato Salad & Pennywort Relish

Black & White Tree Ear Mushrooms (aka Wood Ear Mushrooms): These types of mushrooms grow in bunches out of the sides of trees making it look like the trunks have ears. The lobes are meaty and flat on the other end and can get as big as 8” across. These mushrooms are best known and most often used in Asia although they grow in China, Europe and the United States. When fresh, they have a somewhat gummy texture and are translucent in color. When dry, they turn black, but they are the only edible mushroom to have the same flavor and texture when fresh or when dried and reconstituted.
Steamed Soy Spinach Custard with Black & White Tree Ear Mushrooms & Soy Juice

Madai: The name for Japanese red snapper.
Sashimi of Madai poached in Fresh Chicken Coriander Broth

Djan: A Sichuan-style chili sauce.
Smoked Squab Breast & Foie Gras in Lotus Crepes with Savory Bean Djan

Desert Moss: A black and hairy green that grows outside Beijing and has a mushroom-like taste.
Homemade Steamed Tofu Custard with Crab, Shrimp, Lobster, Mussels & Air Dried Scallop, Desert Moss & Tanjin Bouillon