FirstLook: SHO Shaun Hergatt

The Gluttoness — June 08, 2009

It’s rare that I’m speechless, but last Thursday night’s preview dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt stunned me into my first satisfied oblivion of 2009. Executive Chef Sean Hergatt has spent two years turning the concrete canvas within The Setai New York into a modern Asian masterpiece with simple elegance and ruby red accents. An expansive glass wall separates diners from the theatrics of the grand kitchen and many of the tables face Hergatt’s “stage” where he commands his dutiful “players.” You witness meticulousness then taste it.

The striking décor is matched by the drama of SHO’s impeccable food, which the chef described as “Asian-accented, modern French cuisine.” Hergatt is a brawny Australian with a sweet smile—the unexpected artist behind brilliantly feminine dishes that are as artistically inclined as they are sophisticated in flavor. There’s a continual dance between delicacy and decadence. Riveting taste always wins, but it’s the manner in which it’s achieved that is so interesting.

 

Duo of Canapes: Crêpe w/ Tobiko & Sour Cream over Lime & Sesame Seed Tuille w/ Whitefish Tartare

Two velvety crêpes were filled with tobiko and sour cream, then tied in purses, served over thin slices of lime and topped with gold leaf. Two sesame seed tuilles were rolled like cigars and stuffed with whitefish tartare. There was an impressive equilibrium between the rich insides and the subtle exteriors.

Click here for AlwaysHungry's full First Look at Sho Shaun Hergatt >>

AlwaysHungry: Momofuku Ko

Jeff Zalaznick & The Gluttoness — February 23, 2009

“We should go to Co. for our office meal,” I said late last week upon learning that Jim Lahey’s Company had finally acquiesced to being open during lunch hours.

Jeff heard “Ko,” and wearing a smirk, secretly went to check availability at Momofuku Ko .

“We’re going,” he said, inspiring me to celebrate over the prospect of eating artisanal pizza.

“No,” he corrected, “I mean, we’re going to Momofuku Ko.”

In a rare moment of availability and well-guided fate, he had unbelievably snatched up a coveted lunch reservation for 12:20pm this past Friday. I couldn’t believe it, but his giant smile and a printed confirmation dispelled my skepticism. I broke into a prolonged extra-happy dance, which lasted until we sat down for the meal. Some people play 18 holes in an afternoon—if you’re AlwaysHungry, you enjoy an 18-course meal.

Since photography is banned (while twittering about our meal, I was even accused of taking pictures with my phone), we decided the most interesting way to share our experience was to grade each course individually without discussion. Here is a Dish by Dish and our results:

1st Course: Trio of Hors d’Oeuvres

Fried Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp) Heads

The Gluttoness’ Grade: B+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A+

Pommes Souffle with Caviar & Crème Fraiche

The Gluttoness’ Grade: A+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: B

Pomegranate-Glazed Duck Tongue Confit over Grilled Rice Cake

The Gluttoness’ Grade: A-
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: B+

2nd Course: Oysters
New Brunswick Beau Soleil Oyster topped with American Hackleback Caviar & Lime

The Gluttoness’ Grade: A-
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: B+

3rd Course: Kampachi
Japanese Kampachi with Lemon Balm, Daikon Radish, Sea Salt & Mustard Sprouts

The Gluttoness’ Grade: B+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A-

4th Course: Fluke
Sliced Long Island Fluke topped with Gochujang, 2-Year Aged Artisanal Soy Sauce, Chives & Ginger-Pickled Shallots

MMS: Gochujang — A fermented chili paste similar in flavor to Sriracha.

The Gluttoness’ Grade: A+
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A+

5th Course: Sweet Shrimp
Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp) tossed with Avocado, Blood Orange, Mustard Oil & Tomburi Seeds

MMS: Tomburi Seeds — Also known as “boiled broom corn” or “Vegetarian Caviar”, they are used to add a caviar-like popping sensation.

The Gluttoness’ Grade: A-
Jeff Zalaznick’s Grade: A+

Click Here for the other 12 Dishes >>