AlwaysLearning: Pan Bagnat

Michelle Kiefer — July 30, 2009

Pan Bagnat, a different way to eat a classic dish, Salade Niçoise, in sandwich form.

What it is: Pan Bagnat is a sandwich made with raw vegetables, tuna, and olive oil. Though there are several variations, the official recipe (see site) calls for bread filled with: tomatoes, green peppers, spring onions, fava beans, black olives, tuna, olive oil, basil, salt and pepper. Other acceptable ingredients are hard-boiled eggs, artichoke hearts, radish, anchovies, onions, and garlic. Right, Pan Bagnat from Bistro Cassis.

Where it’s from: Nice, France. Along with Ratatouille and Salade Niçoise, Pan Bagnat is a notable character in Niçoise cuisine. It means “wet” or “bathed” bread.

An association called La Commune Libre du Pan Bagnat was created “for the defense and promotion of Pan Bagnat.” For a mere $45, you can even become a Citizen of Honor and receive a sticker, certificate, and card that confirm your support of this culinary tradition. As if that isn’t enough evidence of an ardent love for this sandwich, Niçoise shopkeepers created a giant Pan Bagnat as part of a summer food celebration last August. This 40 meter-long (131 feet) sandwich required the use of 400 tomatoes.

Where to get it in New York: Bistro Cassis (restaurant page), and Nice Matin both serve a rendition of Pan Bagnat on their lunch and brunch menus. Using these recipes, the right vegetables and some crusty bread, you could also try your hand at making Pan Bagnat. Vegetarians who consider omitting the tuna should be warned that they are considered a scourge by the mayor of Nice. He was quoted as saying that the Pan Bagnat “has too often suffered attacks that have distorted it to make a type of vegetarian sandwich.”

AlwaysInvestigating: Bar Artisanal’s Lamb Burger

The Gluttoness — May 15, 2009

Having read the good news and bad news about Bar Artisanal, one thing was clear: the Lamb Burger had to be eaten immediately. It’s made with ground lamb shoulder from DeBragga and Spitler that is mixed with Merguez. The patty is stuffed with fresh goat cheese with butter and herbs, and served on a Picholine Olive Roll with a side of Niçoise Tapenade. It’s a delicious explosion of Greek flavors.

Sliced in half, the hamburger revealed a sexy, drool-inducing cross-section. The meat was impeccably seasoned and the olive flecked bread quickly absorbed the creamy, melted goat cheese and lamb jus. The burger oozed sensual juices from its center. A heavy slathering of tapenade on each bite furthered its decadence, dramatically reinforcing each flavor. The accompanying Chickpea Frites arranged in a square stack were also fantastic. Their crisp semolina exteriors had a delicate, yet gritty texture that encased a dense purée of chickpeas, which tasted like warm, concentrated hummus.

Our good news/bad news? The fries are offered alone as an amuse bouche, but disappear too quickly.

AlwaysPartying: Hash for the Holiday

March 17, 2009

Shake up your St. Patricks Day, with some Corned Beef Hash. You might have to skip your morning meeting (what a shame), but here’s what’s Always Hungry Approved:

Olives NY : Corned Beef Hash with Two Eggs (any style) & Toast, $12.00 (breakfast & brunch)

2nd Avenue Deli: Corned Beef Hash, $17.95

Eisenberg’s Sandwich Shop Two Eggs (any style) with Corned Beef Hash, $5.00

Jarnac: Maryann’s Corned Beef & Hash with Fried Eggs, Red Potatoes, Caramelized Onions & Toast, $15.00 (brunch)

Perilla: Prime Corned Beef Hash & Eggs, $13.00 (brunch)

Stage Restaurant: Hot Sandwich with Two Eggs & Corned Beef Hash, $3.50

Carnegie Deli: Corned Beef Hash with Fried Egg, 16.95