James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

Best of 2009: Trends and 2010 Predictions

It’s that time of year again. Time for reflection and prediction. As we leave the aughts behind, we look back at the trends that changed New York City’s food landscape in 2009 and ponder what’s in store for 2010. We are going to take a positive spin: those that we hope will remain and those we eagerly anticipate.

TRENDS 2009

1. Best Steaks, Not From a Steakhouse New York has always been known for our steakhouses, but this year the best meat was ripped from the house’s hands and put into the control of some of the city’s best restaurants. Much of this loosened grip has to do with the all-star quality and distribution ability of Pat LaFrieda (watch video). Though I love me a Porterhouse at Peter Luger’s, a Rib-eye at Strip House and a Double Eagle Strip at Del Frisco’s, they have been surpassed by the Côte de Boeuf at Minetta Tavern, the Rib-eye for Two at Locanda Verde, the Strip at Marea. The list goes on and on. It was also the year that the bone in rib-eye finally rose up to overtake the porterhouse as King of all Steaks. It was only a matter of time. This is a major advancement across the board.

2. Haute Dogs The hot dog went gourmet and I am not complaining. Crif Dogs has been doing impressive things with the genre for a while now (though their new usage of “everything bagel spice” is very exciting), but restaurants like DBGB, Fatty Crab UWS and Cabrito are jumping into the mix with some seriously delicious contenders. This is one that I think will continue to grow in the next year.

3. Omnipresent Octopus Seriously, think about every restaurant you’ve visited lately and ask yourself if there was octopus on the menu. I guarantee that more often than not, no matter the cuisine or price-range, this cephalopod was probably present. And why not? It’s economical to serve, and recently, the average rendition is fabulous. I am so happy that chefs have finally learned how to prepare it so well, leaving the chewy childhood memories behind. Also, keep an eye out for sweetbreads, I think that they are starting to fall into the same category.

PREDICTIONS 2010

1. Artisanal Italian beer everywhere.
2. Large-format alternative (not steak or chicken) proteins for two.
3. Lamb belly becomes the new pork belly.
4. Italian Small Plate (aka “Stuzzichini”) Restaurants
5. Brain is the hot new Offal
6. Mexican Infusion: Fusion Cuisine and Sandwich Revolution.

AlwaysInformed: Octopus Lives in a Coconut Under the Sea

Word comes from Australia today that scientists have documented a veined octopus in Indonesia that collects coconut shells and carrying them across the ocean floor to form a makeshift hideaway. It is the first documented proof of an invertebrate animal using tools. Spongebob lives in a pineapple under the sea, why can’t an octopus live in a coconut?

The discovery doesn’t exactly have us craving coconut-crusted calamari, but it inspired thought about restaurants that serve great octopus dishes. Click here to see them, or just type “octopus” into AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Very Advanced Search.

Featured Restaurant: Taverna Kyclades

Small Peasant Salad with Tomatoes, Kalamata Olives, Onions, Cucumber and Feta.

When it comes to authentic Greek cuisine, we all know Astoria is the place to go. Not only does the neighborhood boast a Greek population, and awesome Greek cuisine, but these restaurants are also easy on the wallet. The AlwaysHungryNY.com favorite has for a long time been Elias Corner, but Taverna Kyclades is also a delicious experience that’s worth the trip.

Read the Full Review of Taverna Kyclades here.

Featured Restaurant: Anthos

Whole Grilled Loup de Mer with a Medley of Market Vegetables.

At Anthos, Michael Psilakis’ Greek cuisine is often dominated by French execution. Even the Greek Salad isn’t inherently Greek, rather it’s riddled with “farmhouse vegetables,” such as peas, asparagus, broccoli and beets. So if you’re looking for a simply grilled fish you’re better off at Milos or Taverna Kyclades. A Whole Grilled Loup de Mer (shown above) at Anthos may sound like a light, simple order, yet the segmented fish, deboned from within, is stuffed with herb lemon butter and breadcrumbs. The filling infuses the fish with herbs and provides a gritty texture to compliment its soft flesh.

Sure, Anthos’ kitchen may be the exception to the chef’s mantra, “Butter doesn’t belong in a Mediterranean kitchen,” but that’s not to say that some of the dishes aren’t remarkably light. Take for example, the Day Boat Cod over which a thin, but robustly flavored smoked tomato broth is poured tableside. Or the slightly seared Yellowfin Tuna set atop yogurt vinaigrette. Still, the Smoked Octopus is pan-fried for unparalleled crispness. Psilakis’ heralded Ricotta Dumplings are given a creamy finish. Adorned with sweet jumbo lump crab, grilled leeks and wilted spinach, a salty touch of feta subdues the richness. Desserts follow suit, with Greek sweets like halva and pasteli being used to accompany a sinful Chocolate Torta rather than served by their lonesome.

Traditional Greek cuisine has it merits, but Anthos delivers a more sophisticated dining experience, with artistic, thoughtfully composed dishes that you won’t find anywhere else. The prices are definitely high, but an amuse, complimentary assortment of mezzes, petit fours and the always awesome cotton candy make the meal worth every penny. It’s definitely not your average Greek restaurant, but that is why Anthos is so remarkably above average.

See new pictures of food at Anthos on its restaurant page here.

SEARCH: Good, Downtown Ramen for a Rainy Night

It’s miserable outside— perfect soup weather. A bowl of Ramen should do the trick. Just select, cuisine type: Ramen, neighborhood: Downtown, and Grade: B+ or above in our Very Advanced Search and you’ll be warming up your belly with AlwaysHungry approved noodle goodness in no time.

1. Ramen Setagaya 141 1st Avenue

Recommended Dishes: Shiso Ramen, Salt Eggs

2. Ippudo NY 65 4th Avenue

Recommended Dishes: Akamaru Modern Ramen (pictured), Chicken Wings, Pork Buns

3. Men Kui Tei 63 Cooper Square

Recommended Dishes: Gyoza, Edamame, Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen

4. Momofuku Noodle Bar 171 1st Avenue

Recommended Dishes: Pork Buns, Momofuku Ramen, Smoked Chicken Wings, Rice Cakes

5. Rai Rai Ken 214 E. 10th Street

Recommended Dishes: Gyoza, Pork Fried Rice, Roast Pork with Scallions, Miso Ramen with Pork

AlwaysPartying: Joe & Mario’s 4th Annual Wine & Swine

from left to right, Cesare Casella, Billy Gallagher, Mario Batali & Dave Gallagher slicing up the Whole Roasted Pig

Yesterday, Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali hosted their 4th Annual Springtime Wine & Swine event, at the Bastianich home in Greenwich. In addition to Mario, Michael Schlow (Radius), Cesare Casella (Salumeria Rosi), William Gallagher (Becco), Dave Pasternack (Esca), Fortunato Nicotra (Felidia), and Andy Nusser (Casa Mono & Tarry Lodge) were all making it happen in the kitchen.

The surprise guest was Schlow, who was in from Boston making his award-winning Radius Burger. Topped with cheddar, horseradish mayo and fried onions, this is unquestionably one of the finest burgers in the world. Pasternack’s Balsamic Octopus is also a gift to humanity, as it truly defines what tender octopus should taste like. The Ribeye was immaculately tender and served perfectly rare. The Pig, cooked overnight and served whole, was a revelation as well. The party was phenomenal—the weather was beautiful, the band was rocking, and excellent Wine and Swine was served all-around. Perfect Monday.

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