AlwaysTraveling: minibar (Washington, DC)

Jeff Zalaznick — April 15, 2010

Guacamole at José Andrés’ Minibar in Washington, DC.

Location: Minibar
Address: 405 8th St (2nd floor) NW, Washington, DC
Contact: (202) 393-0812
Hours: There are two seating per night, Tuesday through Saturday, one at 6:00pm, and one at 8:30pm. Closed Sun-Mon.
Grade: A+
Recommended Dishes: Pisco Sour, “Mojito,” Cotton Candy Eel, Zucchini in Textures, Guacamole, Philly Cheesesteak, and S’mores (not that you have a choice).

There is no question that this seat may be the most sought after of any restaurant in America. Then again, there are only six seats, and at the insanely reasonable price of $120 for 30 courses, it is not exactly an even playing field. It is fitting that this gem of creativity is located in DC. The nation’s seat of power is José Andrés’ seat of creativity. After having feasted at Bazaar, it was thrilling to sit at the test kitchen from which all of Andrés’ wonderful creations came. As I previously coined it before, “El Bulli Americana,” there is nothing else like it in the country.

The experience is incredibly special. You sit at a six-seat bar, one chef for every two diners— they are happy to share their knowledge. If you want it to be, the experience can be as educational as it is delicious. It is a sushi bar for experimental cooking, and your itamae speaks perfect English. Of the setting, it is also important to note that you are not set apart from the restaurant. You sit right in the upstairs dining room at Café Atlántico while the rest of the dining room jealously watches you. It is a situation that you do not want to be on the other side of.

Dish by Dish Photos & More at minibar >>

AlwaysLearning: José Andrés

The Gluttoness — September 24, 2009

José Andrés at the StarChefs.com International Chefs Congress on Monday.

On back-to-back days, José Andrés showcased his ingenious culinary skills at food events in New York City, but it was his culinary knowledge, inquisitive nature and thirst for betterment that were truly inspiring. At StarChefs.com’s International Chefs Congress on Monday, the first thing he commented on during his presentation, “American Cuisine Through a Spanish Lens,” was that as a native Spaniard he wasn’t the obvious choice to address the event’s theme, “What is American cuisine?” When he first opened Mini Bar in Washington, D.C., his intention was to serve modern interpretations of Spanish dishes, but when his customers didn’t know what gazpacho was, he encountered a problem. How can you make a statement with a modern dish if your customer doesn’t understand its origins? The solution: Andrés began elevating American dishes, like New England Clam Chowder and Philly Cheesesteaks (left), with the techniques he honed at the famed El Bulli.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysTraveling: The Bazaar by José Andrés (Los Angeles, CA)

Jeff Zalaznick — July 29, 2009

Mozzarella-Tomato Pipettes with Micro basil and Instructions

The Bazaar, located in the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles, is the first restaurant by José Andrés outside the Washington D.C. area. José Andrés is a culinary legend in Spain and the United States and is a disciple and close friend of Chef Ferran Adrià. He started to bring some of El Bulli’s molecular magic to the US when he opened the six seat Mini Bar on the second floor of Café Atlántico. This concept has been expanded with the opening of Bazaar.

The menu is split into two sections: Traditional Tapas and Modern Tapas. The traditional is a solid run-through of traditional Catalonian tapas, while the modern is the experimental— the magic of food and science that one would expect at a place called The Bazaar by José Andrés. While Andrés’ “modern” masterpieces borrow from El Bulli, they truly are a personification of a chef who has embraced both his past and his present. You’ll find the airs, foams, tomato hearts and spherification, but at the same time, the dishes are characterized by an American sensibility. There are riffs on Caesar Salad, Tacos, Cheesesteaks, Shrimp Cocktail and Caprese Salad.

Indeed, Bazaar might be called, El Bulli Americana. It might also be called the best new restaurant of 2009. It is definitely in the running in my book.

Restaurant: The Bazaar
Address: 465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Olives, Caviar & Tomato Heart Cones, Tempura Avocado, Ottoman Carrot Fritters, Organized Caesar, Watermelon Tomato Skewers, Sea Urchin Buns

Organized Caesar
Quail Egg, Parmesan

Sea Urchin
Avocado, Steamed Buns

Click for the full Dish by Dish >>

Making the Grade: Marea

The Gluttoness — June 30, 2009

The Fussili with Baby Octopus, Bone Marrow & Tomato is poetry in pasta, a union of two rarely matched ingredients brought together not only on the basis of exquisite taste but for the sake of sound technicality. It’s practical molecular gastronomy. The natural gelatin of the octopus melds with the acidity of the tomato to create a base, an emulsifying canvas which allows the bone marrow to thicken the sauce without leaving an unpalatable greasiness. The result is a profile that is not only unctuous, but also manages to maintain the integral flavor of the individual elements.

CLICK HERE FOR THE ALWAYSHUNGRYNY.COM’S MAREA REVIEW

AlwaysTraveling: El Bulli (Roses, Spain‎)

Jeff Zalaznick — June 16, 2009

In honor of tonight’s late opening of El Bulli (it usually opens in April) I thought it appropriate to publish my meal of July 24th, last year (above, Sea Anemone 2008). I do not know why it has taken me so long to share this, but for some reason I needed to let it marinate for a bit.

History:

For the unitiated, El Bulli overlooks the Cala Montjoi Bay in Roses on the Costa Brava in Catalonia, Spain, and unbelievably, was founded as a minigolf installation in 1961 by a German couple who named it for their French bulldogs (a breed known colloquially as bulli). The year 1964 saw the restaurant’s first incarnation, which won its first Michelin star in 1976 with Chef Jean-Louis Neichel, and its second (1990) and third (1997) stars with Ferran Adrià, who started there in 1984 and took the helm in 1987. At last count, El Bulli employed more than 40 chefs and is a temple of molecular gastronomy . El Bulli has been judged the world’s best restaurant a record five times (2002 & 2006-2009).

My Thoughts:

1) El Bulli makes you feel better about yourself as a person and proud of yourself as an eater.

At El Bulli, you feel incredible about yourself. You have made it. You are holding court in the king’s castle. The culinary holy grail (above, Razor Clam / Laurencia). It is a totally surreal experience. Euphoria seizes your grip on reality. Finally, you can walk with your head held high amongst the culinary elite. You get to truly savor this feeling because as one of the eight thousand (out of two million) who will get to eat there this summer, there is no rush. I sat down at 7pm and finished well after 1am. We then sat on the terrace (a must) for a few hours— that’s an eight-hour meal. In order to truly appreciate this, one needs to be an experienced eater. It makes all the hard work worth it.

2) The El Bulli team is incredible.

The swagger and exclusivity that you would think would come with the territory is non-existent. Upon arrival, you are greeted graciously by Juli Soler (Chef Ferran Adrià‘s partner in crime) but so casually that you feel as if you made the reservation on OpenTable a few hours before, not as if you had been trying for years of your life (above, Water Lily).

3) I understand why El Bulli is considered the best restaurant in the world.

El Bulli was not the best meal of my life. But it was the most interesting, and food-wise, the most intense. It totally blurred the lines between what was edible and what was art. It humbles dining experts, as it makes you realize that there are still so many gastronomic boundaries to be explored and broken.

Everything at El Bulli is fun. Everything is perfect in its own way. This is exactly what is so impressive: the El Bulli Way is different. In this oversaturated food world, where trends take control and dishes start to seem similar, it is so seldom that we actually find something or someone who is doing it truly in their own way. That is why El Bulli is so special. They do it their way. And, their way is fantastic.

4) You got to have friends.

Losing my El Bulli virginity was a team effort by way of a wonderful marriage between my closest friend Zach Aarons and Camilla Gale. Had Zach not had the foresight to ask Camilla to be his wife, I would have never been asked to Provence for the engagement party. Had I never been asked to Provence, had Zach not had the good fortune to get a reservation and had someone not dropped out, then I would still be living the shameful existence that is never having been to El Bulli. Zach, good choice.

Honestly though, I was truly honored to be a part of this historic meal between the Gale and Aarons families, and I cannot thank both of you enough for including me. Now, the question is, where are we going this summer?

Overview:

Restaurant: Restaurante El Bulli
Address: Cala Montjoi, Ap. 30 17480, Roses, Girona, Spain‎ (view map)
Rating: *** (Michelin)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Parmesan “Air”, Hot & Cold Pea Soup, Spherical Olives, Sea Anemones, Rabbit Brains – menu changes constantly though so just go with it

Click here to see the entire El Bulli meal, in order, Dish by Dish >>

AlwaysQuestioning: Terrance Brennan & Bradford Thompson of Bar Artisanal

The Gluttoness — May 26, 2009

Together, Executive Chef, Terrance Brennan (of Artisanal and Picholine) and Consulting Chef, Bradford Thompson (formerly of Lever House) are delighting diners with their ““French”:http://www.alwayshungryny.com/thought-for-food/tag/French/ inspired” interpretation of Mediterranean small plates in an extension of the Artisanal brand, Bar Artisanal. AlwaysHungryNY recently sat down with these two chefs who have turned the failed Trigo space into a grand bistro in TriBeCa. When the kitchen at Bar Artisanal has settled into a routine, Brad hopes to open a restaurant with French and West Indian themes. In the meantime, the two are perfecting dishes, and eating plenty along the way.

AHNY: Are you Always Hungry?
BT: I’d say so, yeah…for adventure.
TB: No, because I nosh all day, especially with the new restaurant.

AHNY: So, what did you eat today?
BT: Two espressos and a cappuccino. We had a photo shoot all day. Oh, and granola.
TB: We had the photo shoot, so I tasted the Pizza, Chutney, Steak Tartare}thought-for-food/tag/Steak-Tartare/, Roquefort Parfait, Chickpea Frites, Oysters and Hangar Steak.

Brennan & Thompson on trends, snack foods and 'must-have' ingredients >>