AlwaysHolidays: The Twelve Days of Christmas

Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — December 25, 2009

AlwaysHungryNY.com’s ‘Twelve Days of Christmas’ Food Tree.

To celebrate Christmas, here’s the full food carol version of ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, featuring some of the great dishes we tasted in 2009 that we’re willing to sing about. Happy Holidays!

On the twelfth day of Christmas my waiter brought to me…

Twelve beets for eating,

Eleven tasty smoked things,

Ten gourds a-heaping,

Nine pies a-twirling,

Eight, made with milk-in,

Seven soups worth sipping,

Six eggs for feasting,

Five on-ion rings.

Chicks from four birds,

Three fried ‘French hens,’

Two desserts for two,

And Felidia’s pear ravioli.

AlwaysHolidays: On the Eighth Day of Christmas

Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — December 19, 2009

Technically, the Twelve Days of Christmas don’t start until Christmas Day, but we’re already in the spirit. To celebrate over the next four days, here’s the carol, ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, featuring some dishes we tasted in 2009 that we’d be willing to sing about.

Eight Maids a Milking. Today’s food carol verse is a dairy bonanza.

It begins:

On the eighth day of Christmas, my waiter brought to me… eight, made with milk-in,

From MARK Burger, Guinness Milkshake.

Click Here for Dishes and Lyrics >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Got (Raw) Milk?

Michelle Kiefer — December 07, 2009

Michelle Kiefer’s Mason jar of raw milk, fresh from her source.

I arrive at the park late morning. They know why I’m there before I say a word. I stand to the side and slip them cash. They hand it to me in a non-descript plastic bag.

No, this isn’t a drug deal. So goes my now habitual, illicit purchase of raw milk.

Click Here to Continue Reading About Procuring Raw Milk >>

AlwaysLearning: Galaktoboureko

April 02, 2009

What It Is: A custard-filled phyllo dessert. The pudding-like, milk custard is thickened with semolina (Greek simigthali) and/or cornstarch. Immediately after baking, galaktoboureko is soaked in a light lemony, or orange, syrup. The phyllo is layered above and below the custard and baked in a pie pan and then sliced (pictured) or rolled into individual servings. While the syrup can be served on the side instead of spooned overtop (cop-out), it’s best to serve the dish once it has completely cooled and the syrup has been fully absorbed by the pastry.

Where It’s From: A traditional Greek sweet. The name, which translates to “milk pie,” originates from the Greek words galact (milk) and bourkek (pie). As you’ll see below, just like the spelling of the word phyllo (or filo), the spelling of galaktoboureko seems to be up to interpretation.

Where You Can Get It:

Anthos: Galaktoboureko: Semolina Pudding with Ginger Ice Cream, Concord Grape Sorbet & Phyllo, $10.00

Milos: Galaktoboureko: Custard with Layered Phyllo Crust, $10.00

Molyvos: Galaktoboureko: Semolina Custard wrapped in Phyllo & bathed in Citrus Syrup, $9.00

Thalassa: Galaktobouriko: Citrus-Custard wrapped in Filo & drizzled with Orange Honey, $6.95

Avra Estiatorio: Galactobourico: Semolina Custard wrapped in Filo with Orange & Lemon Zest Syrup

Pylos: Christos’ Towering Galaktobourekakia: Buttery Phyllo Triangles filled with Greek Custard & drizzled with Cinnamon & Greek Mountain Honey, $6.00

Philoxenia: Galakrobourko: Fresh Custard Cream wrapped in Phyllo with Light Syrup, $5.50

Always Investigating: Japanese-Style Homemade Tofu

The Gluttoness — March 12, 2009

EN Japanese Brasserie has 40 locations in Japan, all featuring Japanese home-style cooking in a modern izakaya format. The first American outpost of this chain opened in 2004 and is located on a quiet stretch of Hudson Street just a few blocks north of Houston St. While there is some sushi amidst the small plates, Chefs Koji Nakano and Yasuhiro Honma are best known for their homemade tofu, which is made every hour-and-a-half from 6pm to 10:30pm. So, when I finally found myself at this Vegas-style eatery I had to order some sort of tofu or yuba (tofu skin). I opted for the Tonyu Yu-Dofu, listed as featuring a hot pot of fresh tofu in soymilk with ponzu citrus soy sauce.

Tonyu Yu-Dofu is Japanese for tofu boiled in seaweed-infused water, and the dish’s warmth means it will come off the menu in May. Yu-Dofu refers to the seaweed-infused water, but EN Japanese Brasserie uses creamy soy-milk instead, which gives its variation a distinctively rich base. Served in a large bowl with a wooden handle (pictured right), the silky tofu is a blank canvas for the quartet of accompanying garnitures.

For the best combination, it’s paramount to mix. Chopped scallions lend a fresh bite, and the acidity of the homemade ponzu citrus soy sauce balances the creamy soymilk. Shredded and dried seaweed (tororo konbu) has an earthy flavor, and the tacky texture subsides once the seaweed is reconstituted by the liquid. Lastly, orange momiki oroshi combines Japanese chili paste (togarashi) with grated daikon, which imparting a subtle yet vibrant heat.

I must admit, I wasn’t keen to sample the tofu—AlwaysHungry is on the fence about it in general. But, after devouring a heaping properly topped scoop (pictured left) , EN Japanese Brasserie unequivocally dispelled skepticism. In fact, I went back for seconds. The dish was surprisingly complex, and despite the competing flavors, the tofu’s velvety texture made it stand out nonethless. I’d compare it to passing a girl in a frumpy outfit—think “She’s All That”—and then seeing her in a skin tight dress and suddenly you’re floored. EN Japanese Brasserie’s Tonyu Yu-Dofu was my Laney Boggs. A careful preparation and a few minor additions, and this ordinary ingredient became a heightened culinary experience worthy of repeated visits.

If you’re interested in learning how EN makes their tofu, Chef Yasuiro Homma will be hosting a demonstration and tasting event, Tales of Tofu, this upcoming Sunday. Every attendant will walk away with the necessary tools to make tofu in the comfort of your own home.