First Look: Bistro Vendôme
Arthur Bovino — February 19, 2010
Clockwise from top: Australian Rack of Lamb with Potato Gratin and Rosemary Jus, Mussels Provençale, Exterior.
In a city plush with new menus touting the trendiest ingredients and applications, the opening of a French bistro that serves classics like moules frites and escargots could be easily overlooked. After being invited to Pascal Petiteau’s newly-opened Bistro Vendôme, we can report that that would be a shame. Bistro Vendôme smells of new restaurant. The wood floors shine and the paint is fresh, but it’s filled with warm lighting and once you sit down, the sop-it-up scent of butter and garlic.
More About Bistro Vendôme with the Full Slideshow >>
AlwaysInvestigating: Lamazou
GutterGourmet — December 02, 2009
Top, Lamazou’s “Smart Duck” Sandwich. Bottom left, “The Butterfly” Sandwich. Right, Lamazou Specialty Sandwich.
The area between 21st and 33rd Streets and Lexington and 3rd Avenues is home to three of my favorite sandwich shops: Defonte’s, Baoguette and, of course, the new 2nd Avenue Deli (now on Toidy Toid and Toid as Bugs Bunny would say). So while the Italians are credited with the hero, the Vietnamese with the banh mi and the Jews with the overstuffed deli sandwich, I’d like to recommend a fourth place in the same zone which may rival them all.
What’s in a Name: Peking Duck House
The Gluttoness — October 01, 2009
Just as parents set out to find the perfect name for their newborns, chefs and restaurant owners alike are always searching for the perfect title for their restaurants. Some people go for the obvious, like a relative’s name or a favorite ingredient, but often, there is more to a moniker than meets the eye.
Presentation of Whole Peking Duck from Peking Duck House on Mott Street.
Peking Duck House (view) is a glaring exception to the rule above. Unlike the newly opened Blue Elm, or Xie Xie, or any other restaurant whose name leaves no indication as to what is being served, Peking Duck House wears its product on its signage. If you’re looking for peking duck, then Peking Duck House is the obvious place for you. Fancier than most Chinatown establishments, the white tablecloths and suited waiters set a much more elegant tone than Nice Green Bo’s hurried service, awkward communal seating and sticky plastic tabletops.
Most importantly, the namesake dish is as well-executed as anywhere else in New York City, and at much more affordable prices than fancier Chinese restaurants like Tse Yang or Mr. K’s. An entire Peking Duck, with the traditional fixings costs $40 and this BYOB establishment offers prix-fixe deals for larger parties at $26.50 per person.
We prefer the Mott Street location, but with another restaurant in Midtown, you don’t have to head down to Chinatown. Peking Duck House is perfect for a range of occasions, from birthday dinners and quiet dates to a night out with the kids or impressing out-of-towners. Peking duck lovers need not look any further for their fix. Sometimes the obvious choice is the best one. In this case the sign says it all.
AlwaysInvestigating: New Buns on the Block
The Gluttoness — September 09, 2009
Until now, your best bet for pork buns (not counting Chinatown) was below 14th Street, the Goliaths being, Momofuku Ssäm and Noodle Bar. During the past few months Midtown has sprouted new restaurants that serve Chinese steamed pork buns (char siu bao).
Mantou Chinese Sandwiches, on the East Side (view site), is a sliver of a restaurant specializing in sandwiches on “sesame seed-studded, steamed mantou—a traditional Chinese steamed bread …a staple of Northern Chinese cuisine.” On the West Side is Xie Xie (restaurant page), which is Mandarin for “Thank you.” Xie Xie’s five-item Asian sandwich concept is helmed by Chef Angelo Sosa, who was executive sous-chef at Jean Georges for four years. Both places have a counter for ordering and seating, but these interpretations showcase two styles.
Mantou serves two buns, Spicy Pork or Braised Pork (each costs $3.95). Instead of buying them individually you can opt for the $9.95 Combo Box which includes any two sandwiches with a side salad and shrimp chips. The buns look like Big Mac’s but are soft and luscious like fluffy English muffins.
Mantou’s Braised Pork Bun.
Mantou’s spongy bun envelops thick, tender slices of braised fatty pork. It’s dressed with crunchy slivers of cucumber, cilantro, and hoisin, which ensure fresh well-rounded flavors and juicy sweetness that balance the rich flavor of the salty pork. The first taste (with a little Sambal) was the best. Unfortunately, the next bite included the chewy end of the roast.
AlwaysLearning: Cochinita Pibil
Josh Kaplan — June 30, 2009
What it is: Cochinita Pibil, or Puerco Pibil (Buried Baby Pig/Hog) is a whole suckling pig or pork butt, rubbed with an intricate spice blend, wrapped in a banana leaf and slow-roasted. The magic of the dish is created by Achiote Paste (or Recado Rojo), made from a distinctive spice blend that includes: clove, achiote, cumin, allspice, dried Mexican oregano, black pepper and salt, combined with sour Seville Oranges, vinegar, garlic and habanero peppers. Once slathered with paste, the meat is usually covered with sliced onions, wrapped in a banana leaf, and placed in a large baking pan in marinade. It is then covered with tin foil and cooked at a very low temperature until it falls apart. Traditionally, Cochinita Pibil was buried in a pit with a fire at the bottom to roast it.
Where it’s From: Cochinita Pibil is one of the most famous staples of Yucatán cuisine. It is commonly associated with the Mayan Indians who are said to have originally cooked it in a pit oven in the ground.
Finding it in New York City: Cochinita Pibil is on the menu at Zarela in Midtown. The fine representation (above) arrives wrapped in banana leaf with a side of creamy poblano and corn rice. Inside, the juicy, stringy pork cubes are topped with pickled onions, habanero and orange relish.
AlwaysHungry: La Fonda Del Sol
March 02, 2009
It’s only fitting that Josh De Chellis has become Executive Chef at the new La Fonda Del Sol, as both he and the restaurant are looking to reinvent themselves. The 2009 reincarnation is an extravagant attempt to breathe life into Joe Baum’s renowned 1960s Rockefeller Center restaurant.
Designed by Adam Tihany, the renovation of this vibrant space was clearly not cheap, so the pressure is on De Chellis to once again entice legions of loyal diners, this time with his modern Spanish cooking. De Chellis’ updated menu features a wide range of classics, including Albondiguillas, Piquillo Peppers, Salt Cod Croquetas, and Patatas Bravas, as well as more refined Spanish flavors such as Rodaballo (Turbot) a la Plancha with Red Peppers & Saffron.
The front of the restaurant features an impressively long bar surrounded by large tables and a bevy of well positioned flat-screen TVs. With a more economical, tapas-centric menu, the lively vibe of this bar area makes it ideal for after-work drinks with coworkers or a relatively inexpensive meal amongst friends. Although you can still order tapas, the more sophisticated full menu is only offered in the elegant back room, which is somewhat quieter and better-suited for a business lunch or an intimate date. The AlwaysHungry Council of Eaters has yet to do full reconnaissance, but a quick bite revealed an amazing Pan Con Tomate (pictured), which has inspired a forthcoming Top 5 list and made us all eager to return.
Dish of the Week: Convivio’s Tortelli
September 22, 2008
At the helm of Convivio, Chef Michael White has created a hybrid of classic Italian dishes with his Tortelli D’Amatrice. The cream-covered pillows may seem obviously ordinary, but this dish is anything but your average alfredo. The sauce is in fact Cacio e Pepe, a traditional Roman dressing of Pecorino cheese and freshly-cracked pepper, and the filling makes a dramatic statement that is foreshadowed in the dish’s name. Inside the tortelli lies the traditional components of Amatriciana, another celebrated Roman specialty (specifically from the tiny town of Matrice) featuring guanciale and tomato. But White takes it a step further, beefing up the customary ingredients with an added dose of pork belly for seriously sinful bites of tomato-laced swine filling. It’s so difficult to even come close to perfecting a classic, and yet White has managed to impressively tackle two with tremendous success. Looks may be deceiving in the case of Convivio’s Tortelli D’Amatrice, but the flavors will quickly tell the true story: this is one ground-breaking dish that really opens Pandora’s Box on the possibility of fusing classics without compromising the integrity of either.
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