Featured Cocktail: Marea’s Stormy Veloce

Maryse Chevrière — August 05, 2010

Marea’s Stormy Veloce.

In a way, it makes perfect sense that Marea, Michael White’s much-decorated temple of coastal Italian seafood, would serve one of the City’s best Dark ‘n’ Stormy’s. Where better to enjoy a cocktail that evokes images of the beach and sea, than here, over impeccable crudo and crostini with uni and lardo.

The “Stormy Veloce” ($14), as it’s called, even fits in quite nicely with the space. The cocktail’s copper red, fade-to-yellow coloring is striking against that swirling, glowing great tide of a marble bar. But enough admiring—mix and sip.

It’s bold. A powerful one-two punch from the fresh ginger and heavy hand of Gosling’s Black Seal Rum. There’s no ginger beer, as per the original recipe. Instead the aromatic Italian liqueur, Veloce, and Chinotto, an Italian citrus/herbal soda, have been added, more in theme with the restaurant’s cuisine.

AlwaysPartying: Always Hungry at the Food Film Festival

June 23, 2010

Always Hungry videos: “A Look Inside LaFrieda Meats,” and “Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon: Michael White.”

The 4th Annual NYC Food Film Festival 2010 kicks off tonight, and we couldn’t be more thrilled that two of Always Hungry’s videos are among this year’s impressive roster of official selections.

Screening tonight at 9:15pm is Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon: Michael White, a glimpse into the character of Chef Michael White and his critically-acclaimed temple of Italian seafood, Marea.

On Saturday, closing out the first half of the sold-out World’s First Drive-In Movie event, is A Look Inside LaFrieda Meats, our behind-the-scenes tour with New York’s main meat man, Pat LaFrieda.

Always Hungry: NY Food Film Festival Selection

April 19, 2010

Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon is an official 2010 NYC Food Film Festival selection.

In the wake of our 2010 James Beard Foundation nomination, we are honored and excited to announce that our video, Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon: Michael White is an official selection of the 2010 NYC Food Film Festival.

We couldn’t be more thrilled to have been selected to be in such great company. If you haven’t already watched it, our video profiling Michael White is a unique glimpse into the genius that makes Marea the exceptional restaurant that it is. The fourth annual festival runs from June 23rd to the 27th, with screenings at multiple locations in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens, so be sure to attend! A very exciting Food Truck Drive-In Movie has already been announced!

And if you’ve missed any of Always Hungry’s great videos, just click here to enjoy!

Always Hungry: The Restaurant List

Jeff Zalaznick — January 05, 2010

Dishes from The Always Hungry Restaurant List.

If I had to choose, what restaurants would I take with me into 2010? Off the top of my head, what places do I know that I will choose to return to in the coming year? These are the questions that I asked myself as I thought about this year’s restaurant list. As I made the list, I have made sure that it not only reflects what restaurants to go to, but that it also lets you know exactly what to eat when you get there. As always, our goal is to arm readers with the information that they will need in order to have the best eating experiences possible. This list is a guide to a slice of the Always Hungry life. It is a roundup that will help you unleash your inner fat kid to the fullest in the New Year. If you have not tasted all of the dishes mentioned below, then you have a lot of work to do, but if you start now, you have a whole year to make it happen. So, without further ado, I present The Always Hungry Restaurant List: A Strategic Guide To New York Eating. Keep this close in 2010, and it will ensure that you Never Eat An Insignificant Meal Again.

Click Here For The Always Hungry Restaurant List >>

Best of 2009: Trends and 2010 Predictions

Jeff Zalaznick — December 23, 2009

It’s that time of year again. Time for reflection and prediction. As we leave the aughts behind, we look back at the trends that changed New York City’s food landscape in 2009 and ponder what’s in store for 2010. We are going to take a positive spin: those that we hope will remain and those we eagerly anticipate.

TRENDS 2009

1. Best Steaks, Not From a Steakhouse New York has always been known for our steakhouses, but this year the best meat was ripped from the house’s hands and put into the control of some of the city’s best restaurants. Much of this loosened grip has to do with the all-star quality and distribution ability of Pat LaFrieda (watch video). Though I love me a Porterhouse at Peter Luger’s, a Rib-eye at Strip House and a Double Eagle Strip at Del Frisco’s, they have been surpassed by the Côte de Boeuf at Minetta Tavern, the Rib-eye for Two at Locanda Verde, the Strip at Marea. The list goes on and on. It was also the year that the bone in rib-eye finally rose up to overtake the porterhouse as King of all Steaks. It was only a matter of time. This is a major advancement across the board.

2. Haute Dogs The hot dog went gourmet and I am not complaining. Crif Dogs has been doing impressive things with the genre for a while now (though their new usage of “everything bagel spice” is very exciting), but restaurants like DBGB, Fatty Crab UWS and Cabrito are jumping into the mix with some seriously delicious contenders. This is one that I think will continue to grow in the next year.

3. Omnipresent Octopus Seriously, think about every restaurant you’ve visited lately and ask yourself if there was octopus on the menu. I guarantee that more often than not, no matter the cuisine or price-range, this cephalopod was probably present. And why not? It’s economical to serve, and recently, the average rendition is fabulous. I am so happy that chefs have finally learned how to prepare it so well, leaving the chewy childhood memories behind. Also, keep an eye out for sweetbreads, I think that they are starting to fall into the same category.

PREDICTIONS 2010

1. Artisanal Italian beer everywhere.
2. Large-format alternative (not steak or chicken) proteins for two.
3. Lamb belly becomes the new pork belly.
4. Italian Small Plate (aka “Stuzzichini”) Restaurants
5. Brain is the hot new Offal
6. Mexican Infusion: Fusion Cuisine and Sandwich Revolution.

Best of 2009: Cocktails

December 23, 2009

The Mint Julep at Back Forty.

As we remember this roller coaster year, it is important to note the bevy of cocktails that helped celebrate the highs and forget about the lows. There is no question that many of the best are being made in some of our favorite restaurants. Marea made a delicious “Diplomat” that involved the classiest of barside pyrotechnics and the perfect touch of Amaro. Amaro was everywhere, in cocktails out of cocktails, on the rocks, after dinner. Gin became the new vodka, and a Negroni was the thing to drink. The cocktail programs at barMasa, Stone Barns, Yerba Buena, Fatty Crab and Minetta Tavern were consistently impressive. The pineapple flavored vodka at Mari Vanna was a revelation. Crop Organic Cucumber Vodka changed lives.

We have nominated the AlwaysHungry Cocktail of 2009: Remember the Maine. It is the poignant revival of a historic cocktail named for a phrase, “Remember the Maine, to Hell with Spain!” which was popularized after the 1898 sinking of the USS Maine, an event that precipitated the Spanish–American War. The cocktail is the perfect balance of strong, bitter and sweet. It revived our passion for mixology. We would like to make a toast to Remember the Maine! This is a fabulous cocktail (right) to make on New Year’s Eve night to help you battle the cold and help you forget whatever bad decisions you end up making. The ingredients and the straightforward recipe: 2 oz. Rittenhouse Rye or Wild Turkey Rye, ¾ oz. Punt y Mes, ¼ oz. Cherry Heering, Absinthe. Chill, strain and stir in an absinthe-rinsed (½ tsp) glass.

Also, for your viewing pleasure, here is a slideshow of some of our best sips of 2009 (memorable enough to make it through the haze of our drink-induced stupors—so they must be really good).

Best of 2009: A Few Dishes

December 22, 2009

A few of AlwaysHungry’s favorite dishes of 2009.

There is no question that a lot of eating has gone down this year. Rookies have introduced new favorites and standbys have reminded us that oldies can still be goodies. To celebrate the conclusion of the ninth year of the aughts, we’ve compiled a little photo tour of a few of our favorite dishes and organized them into nine of our favorite food groups.

Click Here for a few of AlwaysHungry's Favorite Dishes of 2009 >>

Best of 2009: New Restaurants

December 21, 2009

By row, left to right: Locanda Verde’s Chicken for Two, Marea’s Spaghetti with Crab & Uni, and The Breslin’s Thrice Cooked Chips. 2nd Row: The Standard Grill’s Rock Shrimp & Iberico Hash, Minetta Tavern’s Côte de Boeuf, and DBGB’s Yankee Burger. 3rd Row: Kesté‘s Pomodorini e Provola Pizza, Fatty Crab’s Fatty Sliders, and Vinegar Hill House’s Red Wattle Pork Chop.

Here are our picks for the nine best new restaurants to enter the New York food landscape in 2009. If you want to know what to eat when you get there, go to the restaurant pages for AlwaysHungry’s recommended dishes.

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS OF 2009

1. Marea. Michael White is king. The Octopus & Bone Marrow Pasta says it all.

2. Locanda Verde. The valiant return of Andrew Carmellini. Incredible vibe for any occasion.

3. Minetta Tavern. McNally’s greatest hit. Proving supercool can taste good too.

4. The Breslin Bar & Dining Room. A new scene for the food scene. French Fries. Late nights.

5. DBGB Kitchen & Bar. Something for everyone. Great space. Great sausages.

6. Vinegar Hill House. Re-invinegarated a neighborhood with the Red Wattle Pork Chop.

7. Kesté Pizza & Vino. The best of the new artisanal pizza contenders.

8. Fatty Crab UWS. Taking a risk with heat, spice and fat on the UWS.

9. The Standard Grill. Without a doubt, the best party in town.

AlwaysLearning: Are Critics Important?

The Gluttoness — October 08, 2009

From left: Danny Meyer, Lee Schrager, Mimi Sheraton, Jean-Luc Naret, Jean-Georges and Kate Krader.

On Tuesday, in honor of the 2010 New York City Michelin Guide, Danny Meyer, Lee Schrager, Mimi Sheraton, Jean-Luc Naret (director of the Michelin Guide), Jean-Georges and Kate Krader gathered at the Borders in the Time Warner Center for a discussion about the state of restaurant criticism. Moderator Mike Colameco’s first question didn’t mince words: do critics matter?

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysInformed: Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs

The Hungry Goat — September 17, 2009

The popular children’s book-turned 3-D animated feature, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs, (official site) opens in theaters tomorrow. You can watch the trailer here (did you know MR. T, Al Roker and Neil Patrick Harris did voices for it?). To celebrate, we have compiled pictures of some of AlwaysHungryNY.com’s favorite meatball dishes around New York City.

Enjoy.

Grilled Quail Meatball Skewers from barMasa.

Meatballs with Pine Nuts and Raisins from Frankies 457.

Meatball Hero from Defonte’s of Brooklyn.

Click here for more great AlwaysHungryNY.com meatball pictures >>

AHNY Video Premiere: Michael White

September 16, 2009

“Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon”

Marea is definitely high in the running as our favorite new restaurant of 2009. Michael White’s passion translates to his food. There is no question that he is one of the best. Our new video, “Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon,” is a glimpse into the genius that makes this great restaurant what it is.

Sit back and relax. Enjoy the show.

Click here to watch Just a Drizzle of Oil and Lemon in AlwaysHungryNY.com’s video viewing gallery.

AlwaysInformed: The Losses and Gains of Summer ‘09

The Hungry Goat — September 15, 2009

Dubbed by some as the Summer of Death, the 2009 summer season has certainly experienced its fair share of losses. Joining the dearly departed of the celebrity world are several beloved and well-respected, recently shuttered New York City restaurants. In their honor, AlwaysHungryNY.com has compiled a list of the dishes we’ll miss and why miss them. Of course, where something is lost there’s generally something gained. So with that in mind we included and annotated our favorite new crave-worthy dishes from restaurants that opened during the summer.

What We Lost

Clockwise from top: The John Dory’s Hangtown Fry, French Fries, and Oyster Pan Roast.

Restaurant: The John Dory, closed 8/29/09

The Hangtown Fry “The John Dory’s rendition has to rank up there with the city’s best egg dishes. Eggs are creamy. Bacon is substituted with a thick prosciutto that has the texture of tender corned beef. Slices of pickled jalapeño add bursts of a light vinegary flavor and heat also spread throughout the dish. The oysters are only slightly cooked. The pooled flavors lining the plate’s bottom when you finish are worth wiping up with the delicious Parker House rolls.” (read more)

Oyster Pan Roast & French Fries “Plump, warm, bathed in cream, I needn’t more than a bite to know this classic would be my favorite dish at The John Dory. A perfect bite is to dip a fry in the oyster pan roast. Incidentally, if crisp is an overused word by food writers, this is its definition.” (read more)

Click Here for the full list >>

AlwaysPartying: Oyster Odyssey

Arthur Bovino — August 05, 2009

The John Dory’s Hangtown Fry ($17) is served during brunch.

New York City is a great place for raw bar and fried oysters (see AHNY’s National Oyster Day post). As delicious as these oyster preparations are, other classic and interesting preparations shouldn’t be missed. Take the Hangtown Fry, an oyster and bacon omelette made famous in California during the Gold Rush. Its origin is one of those epic food myths.

It starts in a place forty miles east of Sacramento that was called Dry Diggins until three desperadoes were hanged from the town’s giant oak tree, after which it became Hangtown. Supposedly, in 1849 a miner who had found gold walked into the El Dorado Hotel across the street from the tree and asked the bartender for the most expensive meal possible. The result was a combination of bacon from the East, eggs from the coast and oysters that had been packed on ice and brought in from the San Francisco Bay.

The dish outlasted the town’s name and the hotel. Today, Hangtown is known as Placerville, and the El Dorado was replaced in 1857 after burning down a year before, by the The Cary House Hotel, which still stands. Allegedly one of the only places in town to regularly serves the Hangtown Fry is Chuck’s Restaurant. But that’s okay because you don’t have to go to California to strike culinary gold.

The John Dory’s rendition has to rank up there with the city’s best egg dishes. Eggs are creamy. Bacon is substituted with a thick prosciutto that has the texture of tender corned beef. Slices of pickled jalapeño add bursts of a light vinegary flavor and heat also spread throughout the dish. The oysters are only slightly cooked. The pooled flavors lining the plate’s bottom when you finish are worth wiping up with the delicious Parker House rolls.

The Hangtown Fry is just one of New York City’s many notable oyster dishes on the following Oyster Odyssey that a true bivalve-lover should try to check off their list.

Click to see AHNY's checklist of New York City's notable oyster dishes. >>

A Tale of Two Dishes: A Toast to Uni Toast

The Gluttoness — July 08, 2009

El Quinto Pino’s Uni Panini made a splash as one of the best uni dishes, but recently, rather than sandwich their uni, several restaurants are letting their uni toast appetizers go topless. While the dish is small, it can make a megawatt impression when done right.

When the Sea Urchin Toast (above) at Aldea (restaurant page) was executed properly it was our favorite dish on their menu.

“It is rubbed with cauliflower crème, dotted with a few pickled mustard seeds and a pinch of wasabi,” explained Executive Chef George Mendes. “It is then warmed slightly and finished with mustard greens, sea lettuce and soy.”

At its best, the sea urchin was incredible, served atop a toasty sliver of French baguette. The sea lettuce emphasized the uni’s ocean essence and the cauliflower crème provided an earthy contrast.

As good as Aldea’s urchin toast can be, its sea lettuce and mustard seed garnishes are much more subdued than the luscious layer of lardo topping Marea’s (restaurant page) Sea Urchin Crostini. The Santa Barbara sea urchin was accentuated by a sprinkle of sea salt and the firm crunch of the crostini complemented the creamy topping. It’s an impressive juxtaposition of decadent ingredients from Executive Chef Michael White.

Making the Grade: Marea

The Gluttoness — June 30, 2009

The Fussili with Baby Octopus, Bone Marrow & Tomato is poetry in pasta, a union of two rarely matched ingredients brought together not only on the basis of exquisite taste but for the sake of sound technicality. It’s practical molecular gastronomy. The natural gelatin of the octopus melds with the acidity of the tomato to create a base, an emulsifying canvas which allows the bone marrow to thicken the sauce without leaving an unpalatable greasiness. The result is a profile that is not only unctuous, but also manages to maintain the integral flavor of the individual elements.

CLICK HERE FOR THE ALWAYSHUNGRYNY.COM’S MAREA REVIEW