AlwaysTraveling: minibar (Washington, DC)
Jeff Zalaznick — April 15, 2010
Guacamole at José Andrés’ Minibar in Washington, DC.
Location: Minibar
Address: 405 8th St (2nd floor) NW, Washington, DC
Contact: (202) 393-0812
Hours: There are two seating per night, Tuesday through Saturday, one at 6:00pm, and one at 8:30pm. Closed Sun-Mon.
Grade: A+
Recommended Dishes: Pisco Sour, “Mojito,” Cotton Candy Eel, Zucchini in Textures, Guacamole, Philly Cheesesteak, and S’mores (not that you have a choice).
There is no question that this seat may be the most sought after of any restaurant in America. Then again, there are only six seats, and at the insanely reasonable price of $120 for 30 courses, it is not exactly an even playing field. It is fitting that this gem of creativity is located in DC. The nation’s seat of power is José Andrés’ seat of creativity. After having feasted at Bazaar, it was thrilling to sit at the test kitchen from which all of Andrés’ wonderful creations came. As I previously coined it before, “El Bulli Americana,” there is nothing else like it in the country.
The experience is incredibly special. You sit at a six-seat bar, one chef for every two diners— they are happy to share their knowledge. If you want it to be, the experience can be as educational as it is delicious. It is a sushi bar for experimental cooking, and your itamae speaks perfect English. Of the setting, it is also important to note that you are not set apart from the restaurant. You sit right in the upstairs dining room at Café Atlántico while the rest of the dining room jealously watches you. It is a situation that you do not want to be on the other side of.
AlwaysLearning: José Andrés
The Gluttoness — September 24, 2009
José Andrés at the StarChefs.com International Chefs Congress on Monday.
On back-to-back days, José Andrés showcased his ingenious culinary skills at food events in New York City, but it was his culinary knowledge, inquisitive nature and thirst for betterment that were truly inspiring. At StarChefs.com’s International Chefs Congress on Monday, the first thing he commented on during his presentation, “American Cuisine Through a Spanish Lens,” was that as a native Spaniard he wasn’t the obvious choice to address the event’s theme, “What is American cuisine?” When he first opened Mini Bar in Washington, D.C., his intention was to serve modern interpretations of Spanish dishes, but when his customers didn’t know what gazpacho was, he encountered a problem. How can you make a statement with a modern dish if your customer doesn’t understand its origins? The solution: Andrés began elevating American dishes, like New England Clam Chowder and Philly Cheesesteaks (left), with the techniques he honed at the famed El Bulli.
DishDoppelgänger: Avocado Roll
The Gluttoness — September 24, 2009
You know you’ve been caught looking at celebrity look-alike features in tabloids on the supermarket line or when surfing online. Well, we’re applying the concept to well-known dishes and others that resemble them. And why not, for those of us interested in food, Thomas Keller’s Oysters and Pearls dish is just as iconic as Jay Leno’s chin. As soon as a doppelgänger dish emerges, you better believe we’ll spot it.
Eleven Madison Park’s Hawaiian Prawns: Roulade with Avocado, Lime & Yogurt.
While undoubtedly the most beautiful of this group of dishes, the Hawaiian Prawns inside Eleven Madison Park’s (restaurant page) avocado roulade weren’t seasoned enough to stand up to the luscious draping of avocado. The richness of the slivered fruit overpowered the subtle flavors of the stuffing, and an accompanying yogurt sauce only enhanced the palatable creaminess. While the sensual mouthfeel was attractive to the tongue, the flavors weren’t intriguing enough to keep your mind interested.
AlwaysTraveling: The Bazaar by José Andrés (Los Angeles, CA)
Jeff Zalaznick — July 29, 2009
Mozzarella-Tomato Pipettes with Micro basil and Instructions
The Bazaar, located in the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles, is the first restaurant by José Andrés outside the Washington D.C. area. José Andrés is a culinary legend in Spain and the United States and is a disciple and close friend of Chef Ferran Adrià. He started to bring some of El Bulli’s molecular magic to the US when he opened the six seat Mini Bar on the second floor of Café Atlántico. This concept has been expanded with the opening of Bazaar.
The menu is split into two sections: Traditional Tapas and Modern Tapas. The traditional is a solid run-through of traditional Catalonian tapas, while the modern is the experimental— the magic of food and science that one would expect at a place called The Bazaar by José Andrés. While Andrés’ “modern” masterpieces borrow from El Bulli, they truly are a personification of a chef who has embraced both his past and his present. You’ll find the airs, foams, tomato hearts and spherification, but at the same time, the dishes are characterized by an American sensibility. There are riffs on Caesar Salad, Tacos, Cheesesteaks, Shrimp Cocktail and Caprese Salad.
Indeed, Bazaar might be called, El Bulli Americana. It might also be called the best new restaurant of 2009. It is definitely in the running in my book.
Restaurant: The Bazaar
Address: 465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Olives, Caviar & Tomato Heart Cones, Tempura Avocado, Ottoman Carrot Fritters, Organized Caesar, Watermelon Tomato Skewers, Sea Urchin Buns
Organized Caesar
Quail Egg, Parmesan
Sea Urchin
Avocado, Steamed Buns
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