James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

Featured Dessert: Tabla Cart’s Kulfi Pop

Milk Chocolate and Almond Kulfi Pop from Tabla’s seasonal cart.

Here’s a Flatiron dessert option that not only hits the popsicle trend, but also presents a nearby ice cream alternative for those who have already cycled through Shake Shack’s custard calendar: Tabla cart’s Milk Chocolate and Almond Kulfi Pop.

For those unfamiliar with it, kulfi is a type of flavored, milk-based frozen dessert originally from India. At Tabla’s seasonal cart you can have it sandwiched between chocolate chip cookies ($3), or on a stick as a “pop” ($3) that has been dipped in milk chocolate and covered with slivers of raw almond.

More about Tabla's Kulfi Pop >>

Featured Dessert: For the Love of Salted Caramel

Sundae: Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Candied Popcorn, Whipped Crème Fraiche & Chocolate Sauce at ABC Kitchen.

It’s not news that Salted Caramel is taking over the world. But the path to world domination must go straight through New York. There’s currently a trio of salted caramel high-flyers for the City’s dessert-lovers to check off their lists. Take the salted caramel quiz:

  • Have you had Shake Shack’s Salted Caramel Custard? Yes? Good.
  • How about Cake and Shake’s Salted Caramel Shake? Yes? Excellent.
  • Lastly, the Salted Caramel Sundae at ABC Kitchen. Yes? Wow. You’re good, and excused.

Everyone else, read on…

Salted Caramel hat trick >>

AlwaysStrong: Pretzel Burger and Lobster Roll at Friendly’s

The Reese’s Pieces Sundae and the Soft Pretzel Bacon Burger at Friendly’s.

Restaurant: Friendly’s Restaurant
Address: 2640 Merrick Road, Bellmore, NY 11710
Contact: (516)221-2286
Hours: Sun-Thur, 8:00am-12:00am, Fri – Sat, 8:00am-1:00am
Grade: C-
Recommended Dishes: Ice Cream.

The Friendly’s sign, there it was, a double-sided beacon of wonder in the night, one side demanding passers-by to “TRY OUR NEW SOFT PRETZEL BACON BURGER,” the other side proclaiming, “MAINE LOBSTER ROLLS WITH FRIES AND SLAW ONLY $11.99.”

That’s not quite a swerve your car to the side of the road situation, but it’s too tempting not to investigate. Friendly’s has been around for 75 years, they must be doing something right, right?

Pretzel Burgers, Lobster Rolls, and Grilled Cheese Burgers at Friendly's >>

AlwaysInformed: BBQ Soft Serve Now at Milk Bar

BBQ Soft Serve with Potato Chip Crunch at Momofuku Milk Bar.

When it comes to soft serve flavors, there really is nothing out of realm of possibility for the Milk Bar team. Their latest WTF creation, just out today: BBQ.

Whatever reason compels you to try it—curiosity, daring, a genuine love for savory desserts—if you’re going to go there, then you just kind of have to do it: go all the way, embrace the concept. “Can I get the Potato Chip Crunch on that too, please?”

The result ($4.90) is predictably weird. Not sour, like most Milk Bar flavors, instead it’s tangy, gradually sweet. It evokes cocktail sauce, or maybe Tabasco— you can’t put your finger on it. It’s not as offensive as you’d expect. With a sharp fragment of salt speckled potato chip, the equation gets even more complicated. You just have know when to stop. The whole serving would just be too much.

Featured Dessert: The “Shacked-Up”

“Shacked-Up,” an off-menu mash-up of three new concretes.

SHAKE SHACK THEATRE DISCTRICT
Starring Danny Meyer

OPENING NIGHT: A SHAKE SHACK LINE!
A musical about tourists and zealots alike!

The new Shake Shack in Midtown West has created opportunities for burger headlines, pun-ridden show titles, and at the least, the names for three new menu-standard concretes: the Great White Way, Pretzel! The Concrete, and Jelly’s Last Donut. Those new menu items have also created the opportunity for a new over-the-top off-the-menu option, a mixture of all three.

Shake Shack Mash-Up >>

Featured Dessert: The Red Cat’s Pistachio Semifreddo

The Red Cat’s Pistachio Semifreddo with Hot Fudge and Crème Fraîche Brownie.

Keeping your ice cream options varied and interesting is an essential part of the summer dessert ritual. And if you haven’t tried it already, the Pistachio Semifreddo at The Red Cat offers reprieve from the waffle cone and cookie sandwich routine.

The dessert arrives on what looks like your grandmother’s china— cute and vintage— very apropos for a restaurant with such a strong neighborhood vibe. The Semifreddo is glistening and white, an ice cream snow globe with flecks of vibrant green pistachio, sitting on a thin, but rich crème fraîche brownie base. Then, with the flick of a wrist, it’s gone— hidden beneath a stream of hot fudge poured tableside.

It doesn’t taste much like pistachio (disappointing, but not enough to make you put down the spoon), they’re there more for crunch. The mousse is light and airy as it should be, with a fading, faintly cool center. The effect is a like a polished hot fudge brownie sundae, and really, who can say no to that?

Featured Dessert: Dark and Stormy Float at The Redhead

Dark and Stormy Float: Cherry Ice Cream, Ginger Beer, and Gosling’s Rum.

If old-school soda shops were to become the next trend in New York cocktail culture, The Redhead’s Dark and Stormy Float would belong there. It’s the dessert Archie and the gang would order in college.

Rich cherry ice cream with pieces of whole, crushed cherries makes the strongest statement. Sure, it’s Häagen-Dazs, and it’s delicious. Gosling’s Rum and ginger beer complete the equation, but most of the ginger flavor comes from the cookie garnish. Dunk the cookie in whole and let it soften in the liquid if that’s your thing, or better yet, crumble it up and sprinkle the pieces over the on top.

In the heat of a summer evening this float ($9.00) is cool enough to count as refreshing, a delightful, drinkable dessert that can stand in as cocktail once you’ve past that point in the meal when it’s acceptable to order another round.

Featured Dessert: Five Leaves’ Ice Cream Cart

Clockwise from top: The new ice cream cart outside Five Leaves in Greenpoint, a single scoop cone of Bitter Chocolate Mint, a cup of Salted Caramel Pretzel.

There are few occasions when Five Leaves doesn’t fit the bill for all your Greenpoint dining needs. There’s a menu for those who appreciate both good sardines, and a burger topped with beets and a fried egg. Outdoor tables serve as spots for a romantic meal. And the bar is a great place to meet up with friends for a round of Southern Belles. With the launch of an ice cream cart, it’s now where you go when it’s 90 degrees out and Mister Softee won’t do.

The retro, airstream-shaped cart debuted outside the restaurant on June 13th, where it will serve homemade ice cream on Sundays through June from 12:00pm to 11:00pm, and every day in July and August. Selecting from the four flavors presents a difficult choice: Salted Caramel Pretzel, Honey Vanilla, Coffee Amaretti, and Bitter Chocolate Mint. They’re the creations of Nick Morgenstern of the General Greene, which also has a cart. Five Leaves stocks their ice cream year-round.

Bitter Chocolate Mint is the hip, sophisticated cousin of that familiar, bright Green Mint Chocolate Chip flavor you’re used to. The chocolate is dark, rich, and not too sweet. It’s plain appearance belies an in-your-face mint flavor— it’s like chewing on a mint leaf. For those experiencing withdrawal from Shake Shack’s Salted Caramel custard, this rendition actually improves on it. The base is super salty and faintly sweet. Pieces of crushed pretzel are folded in to order so they retain their crunch. The only thing that would make it even better? Chocolate-covered pretzels.

Featured Dessert: NYC Icy’s Purple Carrot Ice

Purple Carrot Ice from NYC Icy.

The recently re-opened East Village ices stand, NYC Icy, is known for its unconventional flavors. Chocolate-Bacon, Root Beer, Cilantro-Lime, Mango-Basil, and this past Sunday’s, Purple Carrot.

Savory dessert person or not, you had to wonder how well a root vegetable would translate into a frozen treat. The flavor is difficult to pinpoint— sweet the way beets are sweet, a hint of honey, and (not regrettably) very un-carrot like. It tastes of red berries, but that could just be because of its ($3.00) deep, vibrant color. It’s like the token mystery candy flavor you finish before you have the chance to figure it out. But you’re left wanting more, so this is one novelty dessert that is more good than gimmick.

Location: 100 Avenue A b/n 6th and 7th streets.

Featured Dessert: Get Your Pop On

From left: Rhubarb-Jasmine Popsicle from People’s Pops, and an Almond Popsicle with Dark Chocolate and Chopped Hazelnuts from Popbar.

Two new concepts are giving reason to ditch the cup and cone, and go for the stick when weighing your options of where to get a frozen treat this summer. With the recent openings of People’s Pops in Chelsea Market and Popbar in the West Village, it looks as though the popsicle is making a comeback.

People’s Pops, which launched at the Brooklyn Flea back in April, impressed from the beginning with their syrup-drenched, made-to-order shaved ices. They’re still on the menu at the new Chelsea Market stand, along with a weekly rotating popsicle menu. A recently sampled Rhubarb-Jasmine ($3.50) variety was boldly tart and super juicy, with soft chunks of fresh rhubarb throughout.

Whereas the creativity at People’s Pops comes from the unique flavor pairings, at Popbar, the creative wheel is put in your hands with their toppings station. For example, customize an almond-flavored popsicle with chopped hazelnuts and a half-dip of dark chocolate ($5.50) for a Klondike-esque effect. Careful though, these pops melt fast.

AlwaysInformed: Shakes Coming Soon to Baoguette

It’s no secret that Michael Bao is constantly adding to his ever-expanding empire. From the looks of a freshly painted menu above the register at the Baoguette on St. Marks, the latest addition is milkshakes.

Though not available yet—representatives from the restaurant said that they were waiting on equipment—it appears that flavors like Toasted Sesame, Black Sesame, Avocado, and Durian will be on the offer. No word on exactly when the new frozen treat program will be launching, so be sure to keep on the lookout.

Featured Dessert: The Smith’wich is Back

The Smith’wich at The Smith is available again for the season.

Attention ice cream sandwich fanatics, that familiar sign has returned to The Smith’s take-out window, declaring: “The Smith’wich is back!”

Back for about two weeks, The Smith’s signature seasonal treat ($3.50) has been reinstated now that the warm weather has picked up. Fans of the restaurant’s homemade Quarter Pounder chocolate chip cookies will no doubt enjoy them as much, if not more, with a fat scoop of Häagen-Dazs ice cream crushed between them. Buttery and studded with chunks of chocolate, the cookies have that well-done crunch, which softens and soaks up the intensely vanilla bean-flavored ice cream.

Featured Dessert: Bomboloni on Columbus

Top: Plate of Crème Brûlée, Sicilian Pistachio Cream and Valrhona Chocolate Bomboloni.

Sometimes a dessert trend just overtakes the City. So it goes with bomboloni, little round balls of fried dough coated with sugar, and filled with custard. You’ve seen them at Perilla, Belcourt, A Voce, Alto, al di la, Gusto, Falai, and even the Dessert Truck. It was just a matter of time before a shop specialized in them. David Ruggerio’s Bomboloni on Columbus and 69th Street resembles any Italian café— they have panini, pasta salad, gelato, and espresso drinks. But the focus is, of course, bomboloni.

Bomb-Bomb-Bomboloni >>

AlwaysInformed: Pearl Beyond the Lobster Roll

Fried Oyster Roll With Tartar Sauce and Shoestring Fries .

Luke’s, the Red Hook Lobster Pound, Mary’s, Ed’s. Lobster Rolls are everywhere. If a few more show up, they may have a shot at becoming a New York icon. The one that started it all, of course, is at Pearl Oyster Bar. But as good as the roll is, Pearl has other menu items that deserve celebration.

Full disclosure, in 2006, fresh out of culinary school, I manned Pearl’s garde manger station for six months. Salads, oysters, tartar sauce, sundaes, these were my purview. Don’t misunderstand. I miss the daily proximity to Pearl’s roll, but these days, the dishes I crave reach beyond lobster and mayonnaise.

Everyone knows that Pearl makes great fried oysters. They’re plump and crunchy, served on top of dollops of creamy, cornichon, caper, and red onion tartar sauce in cleaned oyster shells. But the fried oysters are also great served in the same butter-toasted, top-loading hot dog buns used for the lobster roll. This lesser-known sandwich is a great lunch-time special.

Photographs at Pearl Oyster Bar >>

Featured Dessert: Manducatis’ “Italian Cone” Sandwich

Clockwise from top: Caramel and Chocolate Gelato “Italian Cone” Sandwich, and the gelato display at Manducatis Rustica in Long Island City.

There’s more to Manducatis Rustica than pizza, saucy calzones, and a fireplace-filled alcove. The case up front typically holds 12 homemade gelatos, and next to it is a glass container filled with components that make this a home to one of the less-frequently seen versions of the ice cream sandwich.

Manducatis Ice Cream Cone Sandwich >>

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