36 Dishes in Houston, TX

Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — April 01, 2010

In The New York Times weekly column, 36 Hours, a weekend-long itinerary is given for different cities. Always Hungry takes a culinary-focused, food-challenge approach to weekend travel with an occasional feature, 36 Dishes. The goal? Consume at least 36 memorable dishes and beverages from a city’s significant places during one weekend. Boston was profiled last time. Up next: Houston, TX.

Clockwise from top: Houston skyline overlooking David Adickes Sculpturworx, musicians at El Hidalguense, and a cowboy taking a break at the Houston Rodeo.

The food scene in Houston: Barbecue, chicken fried steak, fajitas. Sure, it has them all. But this is America’s fourth largest city, one with an international business community where, one local confided, “fortunes can be made, and the good life can be had.” Sure, there are boot-wearing cowboys, but besides the large Mexican population, there are also significant Vietnamese and Arab communities. So, when visiting H-Town, it’s best to leave culinary preconceptions at home.

We did just that, during a recent weekend, tackling significant dishes in Houston (3/20-22), from Pig’s Ear Cake to Chicken Fried Meatballs on a stick. Eating began on Saturday afternoon at 12:20pm, just less than an hour and a half after touching down at George Bush Intercontinental Airport. And yes, a lot of time was spent on Westheimer Road. For the record, the number of dishes (and hours) well-surpassed the title of this feature. Don’t make us say it. Everything is bigger…

36 Dishes in Houston, TX >>

AlwaysTraveling: Rodeo Food (Houston, TX)

Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — March 24, 2010

Clockwise from top: Chicken Fried Bacon from Yoakum Packing Company, a woman enjoys a sausage and corndog on a stick, entering the rodeo at Reliant Stadium.

Pig races, donkey-reining, supreme champion heifer drives, and “xtreme bulls.” That’s just one day on the program at Houston’s 2010 Rodeo and Livestock Show. And all that action really revs up some Texas-sized appetites— not that anyone there needed excuses. Having heard tell of some of the food on that was on the offer in past years, a trip to H-Town for rodeo food this year was imperative. The chicken-fry-everything-and-put-it-on-a-stick approach did not disappoint.

Cowboys left their F-1-somethings in the parking lots in favor of public transportation to Reliant Stadium where the rodeo was held all this month. You never thought you’d see so many Stetsons, big buckles, and boots riding light rail. Then, just inside the gates, past several “Welcome, y’all’s,” was the smell of livestock and BBQ. Billowing clouds of steam were thrown off by skillets bigger than wagon wheels. People walked around with juicy Roasted Turkey Legs almost as long as their forearms. Beef jerky, turkey jerky, pork tenderloin, burritos, nachos, French fries, potato chips, and funnel cake.

There was all the carnival fare you could imagine (and more), and much of the food on sticks. Pizza, sausage, meatballs, corndogs, and alligator. Of course there was fried food: catfish, Oreos, Nutter Butters, Twinkies, and oatmeal cream pies. And it wouldn’t have been Texas without chicken fried stuff, like meatballs, and, yes, bacon. Check out our five favorites below, and the full slideshow.

Photographs of food at Houston Rodeo 2010 >>

AlwaysTraveling: Feast (Houston, Texas)

The Hungry Goat — September 16, 2009

Stuffed Lamb’s Heart, Garlic Rutabega, and Green Beans.

Restaurant: Feast (view site)
Address: 219 Westheimer Road, Houston, Texas, 77006 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Rabbit Offal on Toast, Welsh Rarebit, Black Pudding, Pork Cheek and Dandelion Greens Salad, Lamb’s Heart, Sticky Toffee Pudding

Feast was put on the radar of the gastronomically informed when it ended up on The Times’ Dining cover this past April with Frank Bruni marveling at the homey British restaurant’s “full-on, extended ode to offal.”

If there’s ever an occasion to be an adventurous eater, a meal at Feast is it. “How big are the lamb’s hearts?” I asked James Silk, one of the restaurant’s co-owners who was doubling as a waiter and didn’t miss a beat, “About the size of a child’s fist.”

What makes this unassuming restaurant unique, as Bruni was quick to note, is that its rustic European fare includes items that are a rarity among even the most offal-centric New York City restaurants. Then again, Mr. Silk did work with nose-to-tail chef Fergus Henderson at his acclaimed St. John’s Restaurant in Central London. But most importantly, he explained, liver, neck and heart aren’t on the menu for shock value, the folks at Feast are simply “cooking the food we like, food we grew up with.”

The dishes that come out of Feast’s kitchen certainly taste like a labor of love, one which results in food that is more approachable than the names suggest. Rabbit Offal on Toast set the tone for an impressive meal characterized by robust flavors and interesting textures. The rich, syrupy sauce hit the right savory notes while the tender meat contrasted with the thick toast. Another toast, the Welsh Rarebit looked strikingly different from one AlwaysHungryNY.com recently sampled at The ChipShop. Cooked with beer and mustard, the cheese topping had a thick, paste-like texture that coats your palate with its spicy tang. Bitter dandelion greens were featured in a salad with pork cheek that had been cooked on top of toast to make a delectably crunchy, porky crouton.

Black Pudding was another pleasant surprise. Instead of serving it in sausage form it was a light, spiced loaf that was enhanced by the creaminess of a fried egg’s runny yolk and the freshness of minted peas. Onion-stuffed Lamb’s Heart and Lamb’s Neck dishes proved that there is a lot to be gained from riskier orders. The three hearts were served in a sauce reminiscent of a classic boeuf bourguignon, and the neck (presented on the bone) boasted an intense, gamey lamb flavor.

And for those who find offal less appealing and aren’t inclined to risky ordering, there’s atmospheric solution. “I think there’s a reason why it’s so dark in here,” my dinner companion commented, looking at the Rabbit Offal on Toast that had just been placed before us, “it forces you to eat with your senses so you don’t think about what part of the animal you’re eating.”

Click Here for more pictures of dishes from Feast >>

AlwaysTraveling: Heirloom Tomatoes at the Backstreet Café (Houston, TX)

The Hungry Goat — June 23, 2009

Grilled Portabella Stack with Charred Rare Beef, Vine-Ripened Tomatoes, Bleu Cheese, Onion Ring & Tomato Water Vinaigrette

Heirloom tomatoes, those unevenly-ridged, multi-colored things of agricultural beauty, are one of the iconic summer ingredients universally-lauded by locavore chefs. The Backstreet Café in Houston, Texas, is celebrating the arrival of this seasonal ingredient with a special menu dedicated to it. Sourced mainly from a garden located in a parking lot behind the restaurant and from Chef Hugo Orgeta’s personal garden, the tomatoes feature in boldly flavored dishes that showcase their freshness.

Among several excellent dishes, two starred: Crispy Soft Shell Crab (another seasonal nod) atop a citrusy cherry tomato and sweet corn salad, and an artfully-presented Portabella Stack, large slices of tomato layered between tender beef and tangy blue cheese. One of the restaurant’s biggest draws besides the food is the charming, tree-shaded, enclosed patio. When eating outside there, you can’t help but sit back, relax and appreciate the bounty of summer. Even if heirloom tomatoes aren’t your thing, the southwestern-inspired New American menu has plenty of delicious options to choose from, take for example, the fiery seafood-packed Gumbo and the grilled Lobster Sandwich with Red Pepper Remoulade.

Restaurant:The Backstreet Café (view site)
Address: 1103 S. Shephard Drive, Houston, TX 77019 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A-
AlwaysHungryRecommends: Gulf Coast Gumbo, Crispy Soft Shell Crab, Fried Green Tomatoes, Grilled Portabella Stack

If you’re looking to enjoy the best ingredients that the season has to offer, use our Very Advanced Search to select outdoor seating and seasonal, and AlwaysHungryNY.com will provide you with a list of great outdoor, seasonal dining options.

Click here to see AlwaysHungryNY.com's Dish by Dish at Houston's Backstreet Café >>

AlwaysLearning: Kolaches

The Hungry Goat — June 15, 2009

Sausage, Cheese & Jalapeño Kolache from Old Towne Kolaches in Houston, Texas

Unless you’re from Texas, you’ve probably never heard of Kolaches, a delectable breakfast snack as common in the Lone Star State as bagels and cream cheese are in New York.

What it is: Traditional kolaches (pronounced KO-LA-CHEESE) are sweet, flat yeast rolls filled with fruit jam, poppy seed paste or soft cheese.

Where it’s from: They are said to have been introduced stateside by Czech immigrants in regions like Eastern and Central Texas. The term has also come to refer to a savory variety stuffed with items like mini-sausages, cheese and jalapeño. The slightly sweet roll is best eaten warm, with the gooey cheese melted all around the salty sausage. Some believe this non-sweet adaptation on the pastry that is widely popular across Texas, to be the result of Americanization. Others maintain that the correct term for the variety is Klobasnek, a distinct albeit similar item whose name translates in Czech to “Pig in a Blanket.” Most call it a good excuse to eat hot dogs for breakfast.

Where to get it in New York: Kolache board activity on Chowhound and Yelp makes it clear that this cult, “hometown favorite” is being craved here in New York where it’s virtually impossible to find. Fortunately for New Yorkers, kolaches are scheduled to make their Manhattan debut in September of 2009 in Midtown, where two locations of Kolache Mama are supposed to simultaneously open. This specialty shop owned by Richard Saler, a Texas native, promises to be “filled with goodness.” We’ll see if they can deliver on that promise and how quickly New Yorkers are to embrace them. There are plans to open fifty Kolache Mama stores during the next four years in cities including Philadelphia, Boston, Washington, D.C., Chicago, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Atlanta, so this Texas treat isn’t likely to be a secret much longer.

AlwaysInformed: Edible Creepy Crawlers

The Hungry Goat — April 03, 2009

File this under: weird edibles you’d never expect to see at an airport newsstand. I was in the Houston Intercontinental Airport, buying my usual pre-flight trash rags, when I stumbled across these gems (pictured above) in the aisle of kitschy Texas-themed souvenirs. Take a close look. That’s right, those are lollipops with real—I repeat, real—worms and scorpions inside them.

Online research revealed that Hotlix, the self-proclaimed “original insect candy creator,” has a whole product line of creepy crawler treats that extends way beyond lollipops. Bizarre food aficionados with appetites for cringe-worthy eats can choose from delicacies like BBQ “Larvets,” Bacon & Cheddar Cheese “Crickettes,” and Chocolate-Dipped Insects—all fashioned with critters that have been fed special diets to make them “edible.”

Two brave members of the AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters puckered up and sampled the strawberry and blueberry scorpion pops. The verdict? Really, really chewy, then crispy…and delicious.

AlwaysTraveling: Little Big’s (Houston, TX)

Maryse Chevrière — April 01, 2009

Beef Slider with Cheese, and 4-Minute Fries at Little Big’s in Houston, Texas.

Restaurant: Little Big’s
Location: 2703 Montrose Boulevard, Houston, TX 77006 (2nd location)
Contact: (713) 521-2447
Hours: Sun-Wed, 11:00am-10:00pm; Thur, 11:00am-11:00pm; Fri-Sat, 11:00am-3:00am.
Grade: A
Recommended Dishes: Beef Slider, Spicy Chicken Slider, and 4-Minute Fries.

It’s true what they say, everything is bigger in Texas— especially when it comes to food. But Houston’s latest burger sensation is helping diners overcome their gastro-sizism and realize that good things do come in little packages, or bites, at least. At Little Big’s, the popular new slider joint from Reef’s chef Bryan Caswell, and co-owner Bill Floyd, the motto is, “little burgers, big taste.” The 3 oz. patty, which is made from fresh, never-frozen beef, is ground in-house daily, and certainly delivers flavor-wise.

The meat is perfectly-seasoned, and a cross-section of the mini burger reveals a light pink center—no easy feat considering the burger’s size. The sweet, caramelized onion topping provides a little steakhouse flair, and adds to the juiciness of an already succulent burger. As my dining companion observed, “I can see why they call it a slider, they slide right out of the buns.” On that note, the homemade yeast rolls deserve a shout-out. Baked fresh every few hours, they’re chewy, slightly tangy, and hold up under the ooze of the messy burger.

While the Beef Sliders steal the show (especially topped with a slice of melted aged Cheddar), the tiny menu features other standouts. Chef Caswell has truly outdone himself in the fry department with his 4-Minute Fries. Hand-cut and deep-fried to-order for a lengthy four minutes, the large basket of golden, coarse sea salt-sprinkled fries are exquisitely crispy. The Spicy Chicken Slider is tender with a wonderfully crunchy coating and a mild, lingering heat. The vegetarian option, the Shroom Slider, was the only disappointment. As good as a fried, three cheese-stuffed Crimini mushroom cap sounds, there’s something off with the flavor combination that honey mustard sauce didn’t help.

Even better, the small sliders are matched by equally small, er, low, prices—especially fortunate since a true Texan might need a half-dozen to fill-up. One slider costs $2.08, and a trio (three sliders, your choice) is just $5.78. Add a large basket of fries for less than $2.00, and you have a full meal for under $10.00. You’re even left with enough money to indulge in a “hard” shake (like a Sangria Slushie, or blended White Russian), or enjoy a glass (or bottle) of wine from the impressively cheap wine list.

Always Traveling: Lupe Tortilla

The Hungry Goat — February 20, 2009

Restaurant: Lupe Tortilla
Location: Houston, TX
AlwaysHungry Grade: A
Signature Dish: Beef Fajitas
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Queso, Bean Dip, Beef Fajitas, Frozen Margaritas

You wouldn’t go to Philly and not sample a cheesesteak or visit Chicago and not stop in for a deep-dish pie. The same goes for Houston and fajitas. The Bayou City is known for its fiery Tex-Mex cuisine, and without a doubt, the best place in town to get a sizzling hot platter of fajitas is at Lupe Tortilla. With its relaxed vibe, strong margaritas, and sensational south-of-the-border flavor, this beloved local spot serves up an authentic taste of Texas.