AlwaysLearning: Brandy Alexander

Arthur Bovino — April 01, 2010

Brandy Alexander at the Brandy Library (below, left).

A sweet, creamy drink with cultural references as wide-ranging as Three’s Company to Mad Men. An affectionate nickname the likes of “milkshake.” A day (January 31) on the food and drink holiday calendar dedicated to its existence. You’d think for all that, the contents, and the origins of a cocktail named the Brandy Alexander, would be more commonly known.

What it is: A cocktail containing equal parts brandy, dark crème de cacao, and heavy cream. It is usually served straight up in a cocktail glass.

More About the Brandy Alexander >>

AlwaysInformed: Wechsler’s Leberkäse

GutterGourmet and Arthur Bovino — January 06, 2010

Wechsler’s Leberkäse.

Want exciting sausages in the East Village? Try Wechsler’s on 1st Ave and 7th. Their signature dish is the well-documented currywurst. Even if you don’t love the taste (what’s wrong with you?) currywurst deserves your respect. After all, how many dishes have museums? But there’s another cultural food landmark from Germany at Wechsler’s that hasn’t gotten much attention: Leberkäse.

Click Here for Beautiful Pictures of Wechsler's Currywurst >>

AlwaysHolidays: Eight Crazy Deep Fried Nights

December 11, 2009

From Sammy’s Roumanian, Latkes.

Tonight marks the beginning of Hannukah. Celebrating the oil that burned for eight days while the Maccabees rededicated the holy Temple in Jerusalem, this wonderful holiday conveniently calls for oil soaked, deep fried delicacies. When else is there such a good excuse to eat foods soaked in oil? For us, almost everyday, for the rest of you, maybe not as often. While it is American tradition to celebrate with Potato Pancakes (Latkes) and Jelly Dougnuts (Sufganiyot), anything that is soaked in oil will do. So to help celebrate these Eight Crazy Nights, we give you eight of New York City’s great oil soaked, deep fried treats (including a few beloved latkes and donuts) that you can devour while you light your menorah, have a party, and dance the hora.

HAPPY HANNUKAH!

Click Here for Our Eight Crazy Deep Fried Treats >>

AlwaysPartying: National Corned Beef Hash Day

Arthur Bovino — September 25, 2009

Prime Rib Hash ($16.50) from the Pub Menu at Keen’s Steahouse.

It’s National Corned Beef Hash Day and it would be remiss not to recount the story of Chef Maggie Maloney, the cook who brought this simple spiced amalgamation of finely chopped meat, onions, potatoes to its perfection.

An article published by The Times in 1921 tells it all. Maloney was the cook for Ohio senator Mark A. Hanna at his residence in Washington, DC, at the turn of the century. Supposedly, she cooked a corned beef hash for his 10 o’clock Sunday morning breakfasts that was nonpareil—so good it had politicians and those in the know clamoring for breakfast invitations. President McKinley often visited Hanna on Sunday mornings for a plate of Maggie’s hash, and it’s said that Republican Senators and Congressmen invented political crises as excuses for dropping by during breakfast. The article notes:

“It was recorded that a single Hanna breakfast, on more than one occasion had brought the light of reason to recalcitrant legislators. Serious faction fights in the Republican ranks were frequently averted because of the hash-inspired good-fellowship which prevailed at the Hanna breakfasts.”

And if you think that’s hyperbole, consider this: in 1921 Maggie was left $25,000 in the will of the widow of the late senator, a fifth of the entire estate. Now that’s some hash.

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AlwaysInvestigating: Texas “Desserts”

Katie Reisert — August 06, 2009

Cowgirl’s Frito Pie, Fritos with beef brisket or veggie chili, cheddar, onions, sour cream & jalapeños (small $7.95, large $9.95).

Sundaes and pies are dessert menu fare, but some New York City restaurants are shaking things up with savory interpretations of these dessert words: Frito Pie and the Truck-Stop Sundae. Frito Pie is a Texan classic served at Cowgirl and the Truck-Stop Sundae is served at the East Village restaurant named for the Texan town, Marfa, so we’ve been calling them Texas “Desserts”.

Frito Pie is made with chili, cheese, onions and corn chips. Its origins are murky but point to the South and the Southwest, specifically Texas, New Mexico and Oklahoma. There are two common preparations: 1) a casserole and 2) a small bag of ingredient-topped, crunchy chips. Cowgirl’s Frito Pie is the latter— it nearly explodes out of the bag. The giant reddish lump of chili contains hefty pieces of brisket superior to the ground beef you would expect. It’s piled with sour cream, onions, jalapeños and cheddar.

The “pie” is good, but reminiscent of a bowl of chili that would have been more satisfying on a ski slope than in the West Village on a muggy July day. One flaw was the execution of the Fritos. It wasn’t until halfway through the dish that an actual Frito could be found— they had almost all completely disintegrated. If only Cowgirl’s generous toppings and flavor were combined with Fat Annie’s crunchy chip layer, you’d have the city’s best Frito Pie.

Marfa’s Truck-Stop Sundae features beans, pork and “slaw,” $6

The Truck-Stop Sundae at Marfa is less elaborately presented than Cowgirl’s Frito Pie, but its deep red chili undertones and the purple of the red cabbage make it visually appealing. And what it lacks presentation-wise it makes up for with taste. It’s served with beans, slaw and pork that settles to the bottom of the dish. The beans were in a sweet and tangy sauce and the red cabbage (not weighed down with mayo or seasoning) provided the crunch missing in the Frito Pie.

AlwaysPartying: Oyster Odyssey

Arthur Bovino — August 05, 2009

The John Dory’s Hangtown Fry ($17) is served during brunch.

New York City is a great place for raw bar and fried oysters (see AHNY’s National Oyster Day post). As delicious as these oyster preparations are, other classic and interesting preparations shouldn’t be missed. Take the Hangtown Fry, an oyster and bacon omelette made famous in California during the Gold Rush. Its origin is one of those epic food myths.

It starts in a place forty miles east of Sacramento that was called Dry Diggins until three desperadoes were hanged from the town’s giant oak tree, after which it became Hangtown. Supposedly, in 1849 a miner who had found gold walked into the El Dorado Hotel across the street from the tree and asked the bartender for the most expensive meal possible. The result was a combination of bacon from the East, eggs from the coast and oysters that had been packed on ice and brought in from the San Francisco Bay.

The dish outlasted the town’s name and the hotel. Today, Hangtown is known as Placerville, and the El Dorado was replaced in 1857 after burning down a year before, by the The Cary House Hotel, which still stands. Allegedly one of the only places in town to regularly serves the Hangtown Fry is Chuck’s Restaurant. But that’s okay because you don’t have to go to California to strike culinary gold.

The John Dory’s rendition has to rank up there with the city’s best egg dishes. Eggs are creamy. Bacon is substituted with a thick prosciutto that has the texture of tender corned beef. Slices of pickled jalapeño add bursts of a light vinegary flavor and heat also spread throughout the dish. The oysters are only slightly cooked. The pooled flavors lining the plate’s bottom when you finish are worth wiping up with the delicious Parker House rolls.

The Hangtown Fry is just one of New York City’s many notable oyster dishes on the following Oyster Odyssey that a true bivalve-lover should try to check off their list.

Click to see AHNY's checklist of New York City's notable oyster dishes. >>

AlwaysLearning: The Origins of Lasagna

The Gluttoness & The Hungry Goat — August 04, 2009

Pastitsio, Pylos’ terrine of baked pasta layered with aromatic meat sauce and béchamel, $17.

Today is National Lasagna Day, and while most would assume that lasagna is Italian through and through, it’s said that the true origins of the moniker can be traced back to Italy’s Mediterranean neighbor, Greece. Translated, the Greek word, λάσανον (lasanon), means “chamber pot.” The Italians, particularly the Romans, adopted the word, changing it to lasanum, which was used to refer to the dish in which lasagna was made. Eventually, the term came to describe the layered pasta itself.

The Greeks developed their own variation of lasagna, and surprisingly, it took its name from the Italian word, pasticcio, also known as ‘lasagna al forno.’

What it is: Pastitsio, or Greek lasagna, is a casserole made with tubular pasta, a ragù and a creamy, Parmesan béchamel sauce. What truly distinguishes the flavor of Greek pastitsio from Italian lasagna is the heavy spice blend (nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice) and the use of meat—the usual combination of beef, veal and pork is often enhanced with, or substituted with ground lamb.

Where to get it in New York: For a unique celebration of today’s food holiday, we set out to find some of the best Greek lasagna in New York City. It lead us to Pylos in the East Village. Pylos’ welcoming, homey atmosphere is the ideal setting in which to enjoy this rustic dish.

The powerful aroma of cinnamon and nutmeg wafted up the moment the plate was set on the table, and continued to make its presence felt in the hearty meat sauce. Unlike classic Italian lasagna, which features an even distribution of sauce and cheese between layers of pasta sheets, the presentation of pastitsio looks more like a mold of macaroni bolognese blanketed with a generous helping of creamy béchamel. The buttery, cheesy sauce had the texture of extra-smooth mashed potatoes and the loosely packed noodles had a difficult time holding up under the zealous attack of eager eaters.

AlwaysLearning: Pan Bagnat

Michelle Kiefer — July 30, 2009

Pan Bagnat, a different way to eat a classic dish, Salade Niçoise, in sandwich form.

What it is: Pan Bagnat is a sandwich made with raw vegetables, tuna, and olive oil. Though there are several variations, the official recipe (see site) calls for bread filled with: tomatoes, green peppers, spring onions, fava beans, black olives, tuna, olive oil, basil, salt and pepper. Other acceptable ingredients are hard-boiled eggs, artichoke hearts, radish, anchovies, onions, and garlic. Right, Pan Bagnat from Bistro Cassis.

Where it’s from: Nice, France. Along with Ratatouille and Salade Niçoise, Pan Bagnat is a notable character in Niçoise cuisine. It means “wet” or “bathed” bread.

An association called La Commune Libre du Pan Bagnat was created “for the defense and promotion of Pan Bagnat.” For a mere $45, you can even become a Citizen of Honor and receive a sticker, certificate, and card that confirm your support of this culinary tradition. As if that isn’t enough evidence of an ardent love for this sandwich, Niçoise shopkeepers created a giant Pan Bagnat as part of a summer food celebration last August. This 40 meter-long (131 feet) sandwich required the use of 400 tomatoes.

Where to get it in New York: Bistro Cassis (restaurant page), and Nice Matin both serve a rendition of Pan Bagnat on their lunch and brunch menus. Using these recipes, the right vegetables and some crusty bread, you could also try your hand at making Pan Bagnat. Vegetarians who consider omitting the tuna should be warned that they are considered a scourge by the mayor of Nice. He was quoted as saying that the Pan Bagnat “has too often suffered attacks that have distorted it to make a type of vegetarian sandwich.”

AlwaysInvestigating: The Kapsalon

Arthur Bovino — July 20, 2009

The Kapsalon. An epic name with Alpha and Omega connotations. Sandwich? Candy bar? Cocktail?

Actually, The Kapsalon is a kind of Dutch poutine made in an aluminum to-go container. It consists of a base layer of French fries, “shawarma,” sambal and garlic mayonnaise, topped with two slices of cheese. It’s baked or broiled then covered with shredded lettuce and tomato. The Kapsalon isn’t a light meal (see video) so the gravity of the name is appropriate, if not ironic, considering the meaning.

Supposedly, The Kapsalon was invented between 2000 and 2002 at a restaurant called El-Aviva (right, ‘A’) in Delfshaven, a borough of Rotterdam. In Dutch, “kapsalon” actually means “hairdresser.” The name is said to originate with a hairdresser from a salon called Kapsalon Tati (right, ‘B’), inspiringcities.org noted:

“They used to order shoarma [sic] with chips. Later they wanted to add cheese and sauces. When they sent people over to the shoarma-restaurants they said: ask for a Kapsalon and the shoarma sellers will know what is meant.”

The craze took off in Rotterdam but doesn’t seem to have crossed the Atlantic (despite the cool name). New Yorkers interested in trying an authentic rendition face the challenge of finding a place stocking the uncommon combination of gyro meat, French fries, cheese slices, mayonnaise and sambal, that also has an oven. One workaround is a restaurant serving gyros (meat) and burgers (fries and cheese slices).

Our New York City rendition of The Kapsalon (shall we call it The Hairdresser?) was made by Sam (left) of Buona Journata, the Mediterranean halal food truck on the corner of West 28th and 7th Ave., in Chelsea. He was happy to recreate it with chopped gyro meat for $5 (cheaper than the €2.50-€5 the dish is said to cost in Rotterdam). Garlic mayonnaise and sambal were replaced by halal cart white and red sauces. The dish wasn’t baked (Sam has styrofoam containers), but the idea was conveyed.

The Kapsalon isn’t that different from a typical lamb platter, but melted cheese does make it special, like a spicy gyro cheeseburger on fries. It would be perfect after a night out but it’s not something you’re likely to follow with another meal or activity soon afterward.

Featured Dish: Dumpakht

Katie Reisert — July 20, 2009

Banjara’s Lamb Dumpakht

The white tableclothes and the comparatively large size of Banjara (restaurant page) make this Indian restaurant on the corner of 6th Street in the East Village stand out among the tiny curry houses of Curry Row. But it is Dumpakht (pronounced, Dumb-Paht), Banjara’s signature dish, which makes it stand out not just among Indian restaurants in New York City, but as one among a handful of establishments serving it across the country. According to the menu, Dumpakht is “a method of cooking by which the cooking vessel is sealed with pastry, resulting in a deliciously moist flavorful dish.”

“Dum” is said to mean steam and “dum pukht” has been translated to mean “to choke off the steam.” The dish’s origins are somewhat murky. According to one story, this style of cooking in India can be traced back to the 18th century when supposedly, a benevolent ruler ordered sealed containers of food to be kept on hand for laborers working on an epic project, thus spawning a style of cooking.

Some compare Dumpakht to chicken pot pie, but at Banjara, the presentation is much more impressive. A shallow copper pot is filled with meat braised in a cream-based, buttery stew that is sealed closed with naan that rises to form a dome two to three-inches in height. Banjara’s Dumpakht is available with lamb, chicken, shrimp or vegetables ($13.95-$19.95).

Steam rises from the colorful stew as you tear open the bread. The sauce contains bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cashews, almonds and a subtle hint of curry— but the taste is more sweet and creamy than intensely spicy. The cooking method results in perfectly tender meat, which has been cooking in its own juices. The highlight of the dish is that it’s self-contained —there’s no need to order extra naan to wipe up the excess delicious sauce as you finish.

AlwaysInformed: Dinner and a Magna Carta at Fraunces Tavern

The Gluttoness — July 07, 2009

The best thing at Fraunces Tavern used to be the Beef Wellington, but soon the highlight will be the restaurant’s temporary acquisition of one of the four remaining original copies of the Magna Carta. Inconceivably, starting September 15th, the Fraunces Tavern Museum, which lies above Fraunces Tavern, will welcome one of world’s most significant and transformative documents, the Magna Carta.

That’s right, the Great Charter of Freedoms, the precursor to habeas corpus, an English document from 1215 that marked a historic change by setting limits on the power of the state, will be on display at a restaurant until December 15th. Okay, it’s technically a museum dedicated to the American Revolutionary War, but considering its history as a survivor of the early days of New York City (opened by Samuel Frances in 1762), it’s as fitting a place as any to display the document.

The document is on loan from England’s Lincoln Cathedral (which has owned it since 1215) and has visited New York just twice, the first time for the 1939 World’s Fair, and the second time more than 20 years ago.

Tickets to the exhibit are for appointed times, and a rep for Fraunces Tavern said the museum is expecting heavy traffic, so they advise people to book tickets online and consider eating at the restaurant after their appointments instead of beforehand.

Cue the a la Magna Carta and Feast of Freedom jokes.

Tickets: Order online, or by phone: 1-866-468-7619
Hours : Tues – Sun, 12 noon – 6:00 PM, closed Monday
Price: Adults, $10; Children (6-18), $5; Children 5 and under, free

AlwaysTraveling: Stan’s Donuts & Coffee An’ Donut Shop

Arthur Bovino — June 05, 2009

Above, the donuts on display inside Stan’s Donuts in Los Angeles, California.

National Donut Day, now today is a food holiday we can really get behind. And there’s even some explanation as to why today is donut day. Supposedly, the tradition of celebrating donuts on the first Friday in June started as far back as 1917, when female volunteers for The Salvation Army prepared donuts for homesick soldiers who served in World War I. The day was officially established in 1938 by the Chicago Salvation Army to raise funds during the Great Depression.

Thinking about donuts reminds us of two legendary donut places on opposite sides of the country: Stan’s Donuts in Los Angeles and the Coffee An’ Donut Shop in Westport, Connecticut. Before showing you some great pictures, we should note a few things:

1. There are reports of free donuts today.
2. If you haven’t already done so, you should check out AlwaysHungry’s Top 5 Dessert Donuts.
3. If you’re looking for more local restaurants that serve great donuts, use our Very Advanced Search. We’ve got great recommendations, whether the restaurants spell them Donuts or Doughnuts.

Now, on to the good stuff.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysLearning: Baeckeoffe

The Gluttoness — May 20, 2009

What it is:
Essentially, Baeckeoffe (or Backeoffe) is a stew with lamb, beef and pork marinated in Alsatian white wine, then slow-cooked with thinly sliced potatoes and sometimes vegetables (often, onions). The name is said to refer to the casserole the dish is cooked and then presented in: a ceramic, oval tureen. But it also means “baker’s oven,” a fact that reflects the dish’s supposed origins. Supposedly, it was the creation of busy housewives who tossed ingredients together to marinate and then, when going to town on other business (be it laundry or taking their children to school), dropped off their composed casseroles with the town baker to cook them in his cooling oven. When they returned to pick up their children or attend church, the dish would be cooked and they could pick up fresh bread with it.

Where it’s from:
Baeckeoffe’s origins are intertwined in European history and geography because Alsace, the region it’s from, repeatedly changed hands between France and Germany. Today, Alsace is a part of France, and the dish, which was once considered a poor man’s preparation of leftover meats, is now often found in high-end restaurants.

Where to get it in New York:
Fittingly, the dish can be found at Café d’Alsace, where it’s listed as, “Baeckeofe,” a “traditional Alsatian casserole of lamb, oxtail, bacon and potatoes.” Their interpretation maximizes the flavor of the traditional beef and pork components. It combines lamb and potatoes with oxtail and bacon, and braises them in Pinot Gris with onions and thyme. They serve it in its customary ceramic dish, the lid of which the waiter lifts to unleash fragrant wafts of steam. It’s a hearty, meaty broth with slow-cooked onions that add a delightful sweetness, and bites of tender meat, which take lighter turns depending on if your spoonful includes lamb, oxtail or bacon. The stew is served with salt so it can be seasoned to taste.

AlwaysTraveling: Charlie’s Hamburgers (Folsom, PA)

The Gluttoness — May 20, 2009

Charlie’s Hamburgers was first opened by Charlie Convenry in 1935. When the restaurant was forced to relocate further away from Route 402, Charlie sold it to long-time manager, Bernard “Bunny” McDonald, who opened the new Folsom, PA, location in 1986.

One juicy bite of a Charlie’s hamburger makes it easy to understand how they have maintained a loyal fan base despite a no-frills attitude and an influx of fast-food chains— little besides the location has changed. The same family of Jewish butchers has supplied the restaurant since 1935 and aside from the ice cream, nothing is frozen. The secret behind the beef is that they use meat from the front portion of the stomach. When asked about the smaller than average burger size, it’s explained that things are done the way they were first done and that, “people had smaller appetites back then.”

To compensate for the smaller patty size, most customers order doubles (above). Cheeseburgers are topped with thick slabs of yellow American cheese cut the old-fashioned way, from a giant brick. At Charlie’s, hot dogs (right) mean Philly Franks sliced through the center and weighted so the insides get blackened and extra crispy. Burgers and dogs are served on Baker’s Touch Sandwich Rolls, and the buns are always grilled on the greasy flattop. Condiments include ketchup, mustard, relish, pickles, tomato, onions, but you also have the option of ordering “à la Charlie,” with pickles, tomato and fried onion (top). Charlie’s has always used Potts Ice Cream to make their super thick milkshakes. It’s said that this is in return for Mr. Potts having lent Charlie Convenry part of the stake he needed to originally open the restaurant.

It might seem easy to saddle up to the counter and consume burger after burger with a cool Black-and-White milkshake, but if you’re the competitive type, keep in mind you’ll have to best the current record of 28 burgers if you want the title for most eaten. According to the folks at Charlie’s, this record is the legacy of Pat Ryan, who played the Mayor in The Toxic Avenger. Considering the cult following for these hamburgers, it’s fitting that an actor from a cult classic holds Charlie’s hamburger-eating title.

Restaurant: Charlie’s Hamburgers
Address: 336 Kedron Ave, Folsom, PA (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: B
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Shakes
Notes: Closed Tuesday.

AlwaysLearning: Velouté

The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009

During a recent, fantastic meal at an ‘underground restaurant’ named The Cardinal Club, our hosts Simon and Paula, prepared a Sunchoke Velouté with Leeks and Paddlefish Caviar (right). The dish was served as a soup and its execution was as textbook and delightful as you’d expect at a fine French restaurant. It inspired a discussion that led to an investigation of Velouté, and we thought we would share some of what we learned.

What It Is: Velouté is one of the four original French mother sauces (the other three are Allemande, Béchamel, and Espagnole) as designated by Antonin Carême, an early practitioner and champion of haute cuisine in the 19th century.

How It’s Made: A proper velouté (French for ‘velvet’ or ‘velvety’) starts with a light stock (veal, chicken or fish) made with unroasted bones. It is thickened with a blond roux (equal parts flour and butter cooked until a pale paste is formed) to make a light-hued sauce with a velvety texture, thus the name.

Where to Eat It: Considering that velouté is a classic French sauce, it’s no surprise that you can find renditions of it at some of the city’s finest French restaurants. Daniel plates a Frog Leg and Watercress Velouté with Truffled Mousseline, Black Garlic and Chervil. Café Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s other restaurant, currently serves two dishes that use the sauce: Prince Edward Island Mussel Velouté with Green Curry, Fava Beans and Baby Cauliflower; and Vidalia Onion Velouté with Spring Garlic, Crispy Frog Legs and Parsley. Gordon Ramsay’s, eponymous restaurant makes a Ravioli of Quail, Preserved Walnuts, Mushroom Velouté and Celeriac.