First Look: 5 & Diamond
Arthur Bovino — April 19, 2010
Duo of Lamb: Loin, Belly, Carrot Puree, Ramps, and Morels.
Ryan Skeen’s new glass-fronted restaurant in Harlem had only been open about a week and there were rumors of trouble. Then last week another headline speculated that the chef was already on his way out.
Basta.
Culinary crystal ball set aside, there’s a little detail to be discussed: the food. We recently visited 5 & Diamond on the night of its inaugural tasting menu to check out a restaurant that should be getting more attention for the plates coming out of the kitchen.
Paying Homage: Troisgros’ Salmon and Sorrel
Arthur Bovino — April 19, 2010
An occasional feature that celebrates well-known dishes, and those that pay homage to them.
From left: L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille (Recette Originelle de 1965) at La Maison Troisgros in Roanne, and Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel at 5 & Diamond in Harlem.
For its recent gentrification, you still probably wouldn’t have expected to see an homage in Harlem to what is perhaps the world’s most famous salmon dish. But that is exactly what you’ll find with the Grilled Salmon and Wild Sorrel at chef Ryan Skeen’s 5 & Diamond.
First, a little background, and a culinary history reminder. Along with Paul Bocuse, it was Jean and Pierre Troigros of La Maison Troisgros, who pioneered nouvelle cuisine. And the signature dish at La Maison Troigros is of course, L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. As previously noted, Pierre’s son, Michel Troisgros, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Marie-Pierre, still serves the Recette Originelle de 1965 of this famous dish at the three Michelin-starred restaurant in Roanne, France.
AlwaysHungry: Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken
Arthur Bovino — December 02, 2009
Top, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken. Exterior and meat cross-section
There had been some reports, but since reopening in mid-October, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken (view) had been getting surprisingly little love, until today’s $25 & Under, that is.
Indeed, Charles Gabriel’s Harlem buffet is back in business, and it was great to see it get some play today. But one thing in Dave Cook’s article struck an odd chord, “The result is a thin, crisp crust encasing meat that’s juicy but never greasy; each piece is luscious and flavorful through and through.”
We happened to eat at Charles’ on Sunday evening (mac & cheese, black-eyed peas, okra and tomato, and collard greens, thank you very much), and it’s true that the meat is juicy— it’s the kind of fried chicken you and your dinner companion each take a bite of then look at each other and silently nod in now-that’s-what-I’m-talking-about unison. But “never greasy?” Oh, it’s greasy, all right. It’s take one bite, don’t let go of the glistening chicken and you’ve somehow already managed to get smudges on your glasses greasy.
And that’s a good thing. This is fried chicken we’re talking about— we want there to be some grease.
AlwaysPartying: 1933 Rollback and Pizza-Eating Contest at Patsy’s Pizzeria
Arthur Bovino — August 26, 2009
Patsy’s Pizzeria in Harlem at 118th an 1st Avenue (Patsy’s Way).
“Try drinking a grape soda,” advised Ray Cabrera, 57, a lunch companion at Patsy’s Pizzeria (restaurant page) during their 76th anniversary celebration in Harlem, “it keeps the weight off your chest.”
Ray should know the best way to eat pizza at Patsy’s— he has been doing it since he was 17. Today, he and his friend Tommie Kirk were taking a break from work to enjoy their lunch during the rollback to 1930’s prices, which Frank Brija, the owner of Patsy’s described as their way of “giving back to the community,” after being in the neighborhood for 76 years. Also on the docket later was a pizza-eating contest and the unveiling of a new street sign depicting the block on 1st Avenue as “Patsy’s Way.”
Doors were scheduled to open at 11am but the long line of crying children, bloggers, hungry locals and patrons doused in Aqua Blue didn’t start getting let in until almost a half hour later. Then Israel Miranda, the dapper, suit-wearing doorman started asking the security guard to send in parties of people, “Sexy, five,” he teased. “Sexy, two!”
Sexy?
“I keep telling him, ‘Today I’m Mr. Garcia,’” explained the guard.
Inside, lunch with Tommie and Ray was on AlwaysHungryNY.com’s dime. At these prices, it might have been possible to buy lunch for the entire restaurant without breaking $150. The waitress explained that each person was allowed to order one appetizer, one Primi Piatti, one Secondi Piatti, one pizza and one dessert. The menu noted that there were “No Subsitutions. No Take-Out or Doggy Bags,” allowed. It ruined a lot of plans devised by people on line to “roll in, order five pies and two of everything to go.”
From top left, clockwise: Patsy’s Original Coal Oven Pizza, Cheese Slice upskirt, Vongole Fresche, Fusilli con Pollo al Marsala, Chicken Parmigiana, and Coal Oven Pizza with Sausage.
At the AlwaysHungryNY.com table the bill totaled $3.75. Three people managed to eat and drink: a Coca-Cola (10¢), a Grape Soda (10¢), an Organic House Salad (30¢), Vongole Fresche (45¢), Pollo ala Parmigiana (85¢), the Fusilli con Pollo al Marsala (70¢), a Coal Oven Pizza with Sausage (75¢), and an Original Coal Oven Pizza (60¢). With a $10 tip, we still escaped under $15, well under the $70.90 bill it would have cost without tip. This reporter downed his first pie at Pasty’s by himself. There was good sauce to cheese ratio and the crust was exceptionally thin. “You have to eat it within the first two minutes,” advised Tommie, “it gets floppy fast.”
AlwaysQuestioning: Sazón’s Genaro Morales
The Gluttoness — June 04, 2009
We recently sat down with Genaro Morales in TriBeCa at Sazón, the second location of his Midtown, Puerto Rican restaurant, Sofrito, to find out how he plans on spicing up the neighborhood.
Click here for the full interview with Genaro Morales >>
AlwaysInvestigating: In Search of NY’s Best Doubles
Arthur Bovino — March 26, 2009
If you know what Doubles are, stay tuned, we’re about to name New York City’s best. If you’re asking, “What’s a Doubles?” then read, All About Doubles, which explains the name and origin of this addictive, vegetarian street food from Trinidad, complete with recipe.
I fell in love with Doubles in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, where I was served what one native Trinidadian I met on our Doubles Quest theorized must have been “a left-handed Doubles,” one on which a spell had been cast. Spellbound or just inspired by an intense hankering I set out with my Trinidadian Doubles-partner from AlwaysHungryNY, Terrence Grannum, on a mission across three boroughs to find the city’s best—a quest that required eating more than 20 doubles from 18 vendors. Our trip exposed rivalries, revealed inter-borough nuances, tested hype and ultimately resulted in a champion: New York’s true King of Doubles. Hold on tight, folks—this ain’t no roti crawl.
Click here to discover the true Doubles King… >>
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