AlwaysStrong: Breadzilla (Wainscott, Long Island)

Arthur Bovino — January 11, 2010

Shrimp Salad Sandwich on Squishy Bread.

Location: Breadzilla (map)
Address: 84 Wainscott, Northwest Road, Wainscott, NY
Hours: Mon, closed; Tues-Sat, 8am-4pm (lunch, 11:30am-2:30pm); Sun, 8am-3pm (lunch, 11:30am-1:30pm)
Contact: (631)537-0955
Always Hungry Grade: A-
Always Hungry Recommends: Shrimp Salad Sandwich on Squishy Bread

What possesses the Always Hungry Crew to go on a road trip to the Hamptons in a snowstorm at the crack of the new year? The answer is the good fortune that happenstance brings. Like when you eat something you would never order because you arrive at a place nine minutes after lunch ends and that’s what you’re given after begging the kitchen to make you something, anything. That’s what happened recently with a Shrimp Salad Sandwich at Breadzilla, the East Hampton sandwich shop.

For the uninitiated, Breadzilla the bakery is open Tuesday through Saturday, 8am to 4pm, but lunch is only served until 2:30pm (1:30pm, Sundays). A menu featuring about 20 to 25 options goes online about 11am (with photocopies at the counter). As noted on Serious Eats New York some of the sandwiches seem like “mad scientist creations.” The handwritten menu changes daily and has something Shopsin’s-like about it. The three or four items at the bottom are the ones you’ll find consistently. They are: Spicy Tuna Jade on 8 Grain ($8.95), the Zilla Melt ($8.95), and two sandwiches on “Squishy” Bread, Tuna Salad ($6.95) and Egg Salad ($5.95).

Given the more complicated, enticing options that were on the menu (Ribs and Potato Salad, Gooey Cheezy Roasty Beasty, Steadkadilla, and the Crispy Duck Wrap), Shrimp Salad Sandwich would normally be one of the last things selected. But it was incredible. Full of unchopped, tender shrimp with the texture of the amaebi you’d get at one of the City’s better sushi restaurants. Barely dressed with mayo and seasoned just enough, so the fresh flavor of the shrimp was the focus. Beautiful.

Click Here for More Pictures of Breadzilla Sandwiches >>

HungryHamptons: Clam Bar at Napeague (Montauk, NY)

Arthur Bovino — September 10, 2009

Fried Clam Roll ($6) from the Clam Bar at Napeague.

Restaurant: Clam Bar at Napeague (view site)
Address: ‎ 2025 Montauk Highway (Route 27), Montauk, NY 11954 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A-
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Lobster Roll, Fried Clams
Hours: Late March to Thanksgiving, daily, 12pm-8pm.

The old-fashioned, red and white Clam Bar at Napeague on Montauk Highway on the narrow tract between Amagansett and Montauk has been owned and operated by Dick Ehrlich since 1981. It’s the picture-postcard place to stop in the Hamptons for a bite to eat after a day of driving around with your music blaring, the top down and your cheeks flushed pink and freckled with sun. Even if this roadside seafood shack didn’t serve good fare, you’d almost have to stop there and take a picture with your girlfriend for no other reason than the one sung about in that old Kinks song.

But there’s nothing to prove at the Clam Bar. Its fish and shellfish are from local fishing boats and baymen. You can eat freshly shucked clams on the half-shell with local white wine from Duck Walk Vineyards or local beers from the Blue Point Brewing Company while sitting at the bar or be waited on by one of the efficient servers at a yellow and white parasol-shaded table.

The menu is thorough and reasonably priced. You’ll find: Cajun Popcorn Shrimp ($6.50), both New England and Manhattan Clam Chowder ($4.50/cup), Steamed Mussels or Lobster, Crab Cakes, as well as all manner of fried fare (whole clams, shrimp, oysters, scallops, clam strips and chicken nuggets). There are also grilled fish specials like Tuna, Swordfish, Shrimp, Salmon and Mahi Mahi. The Lobster Roll is good— better than the one available at the nearby stalwart, Lobster Roll (aka Lunch).

Still, the best thing to get at the Clam Bar at Napeague are the fried clams, which are great. It’s a high quality stop, a great place to sit outside and soak in the summer, or what’s left of it.

The menu: from Spicy Crab and Sweetcorn Chowder ($6.50) and steamed lobster to hamburgers.

Lobster Salad Roll, Market Price.

Crab Cakes, $7/2.

HungryHamptons: Gosman’s Dock (Montauk, NY)

September 02, 2009

Top, Lobster Rolls, Fried Clams & French Fries. Left, Gosman’s Fish Market. Right, Gosman’s Topside.

Restaurant: Gosman’s Dock (view site)
Address: 500 W Lake Dr, Montauk, NY 11954-5152‎ (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: C-
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Bring Martin’s Potato Long Rolls and “Fantastic Lobster Salad” from Sable’s to make your own lobster rolls and just have drinks Topside at sunset.
Hours: Topside, daily, 12pm-10pm

If you spend time in the Hamptons during the summer, you can’t really call the season complete without a visit to Gosman’s Dock. The Gosman family, fishpackers for the Fulton Market back in the mid-20th century, founded it in 1943. Robert and Mary Gosman started it as a chowder stand that specialized in lobster rolls in 1950. From there, they gradually added components, culminating in what is now practically a compound with four different spots to eat (the Restaurant, the Inlet Cafe & Sushi Bar, the Clam Bar and Gosman’s Topside). Then of course there’s a bevy of stores that qualify somewhere between kitsch and quaint, and Gosman’s Fish Market, which sells fish straight from the dock where local boats unload their fresh catches.

Unfortunately, the food doesn’t measure up to the fantastic location, at least the lobster rolls and the fried clams don’t. Gosman’s lobster rolls are different both in style and presentation from those we’ve become accustomed to in the city with the proliferation of the Pearl-style. This roll is more akin to lobster salad, in fact, that’s how it’s described on the menu: Fresh Lobster Salad on a Roll. The salad is served in a large, rounded scoop on a traditional hot dog bun. At $16.95, it’s cheaper than most of the ones you’ll find in Manhattan, but in this case you miss what you don’t pay for, the meat is ground and watery. The fried clams are chewy and rubbery.

You would be better off buying whole cooked lobsters at Gosman’s Fish Market or even better, picking up Martin’s Potato Long Rolls, and a pound of the famous, “Fantastic Lobster Salad” at Sable’s (a reasonable $34), and enjoying an end of summer drink Topside as the sun goes down.

HungryHamptons: Briermere Farms (Riverhead, Long Island)

The Gluttoness — August 28, 2009

Clockwise, from top left: Briermere Farms’ pie menu, Pies, more pies and cookies.

Restaurant: Briermere Farms (view site)
Address: 4414 Sound Ave., Riverhead, NY 11901 (view map)
Grade: A-
Recommended Dishes: Fresh Blueberry Cream and Apple Crisp Pies
Hours: Mon-Thu 9am-5pm; Fri-Sun 9am-5:30pm

Everyone has their favorite Hamptons farm stand, but when it comes to fruit pies, everyone’s favorite is Briermere Farms. It looks like any other on-site greenmarket, but the outdoor display of tomatoes, sweet plums and snap peas isn’t why pie lovers rush to Riverhead. Rather, it’s the tiny indoor bakery that brims with homemade fruit pies, cakes, cookies and freshly baked breads. The seasonal pie list features classic fillings like Peach, Cherry and Pumpkin (come fall), and of course, the fruit is all from their own farm. Briermere also creates clever combinations like Blackberry Apple and features less frequently used fruits like Boysenberry and Apricot.

Briermere Farms’ fresh Blueberry Cream Pie, $28.

Briermere is particularly well known for its cream pies, which can be topped with either apricot-glazed fresh fruit or cooked fruit pie filling. The bottom is lined with a buttery crust and a delectable, smooth whipped cream cheese base. On the weekends, specials like Lemon Meringue, Coconut Cream and Chocolate Cream rarely last until the 5:30pm closing time. The fresh Blueberry Cream Pie is out of this world. The mountainous arrangement of sweet sapphires is impressive enough, but it’s the simple trifecta of flaky crust, fruit and billowy cream that is simultaneously rich and refreshing.

Fresh Blueberry Cream and Apple Crisp Pies.

Briermere’s other standout is the Apple Crisp Pie ($16), the only pie given the “crisp” treatment, an atypical one at that. It’s covered completely with a crust onto which the crisp is adhered. The result is an exorbitantly crunchy coating. Once you break through the covering, the freshly caramelized apples spiced with brown sugar and cinnamon ooze out decadently. It’s legitimately one of the best apple pies ever, making Briermere a mandatory stop on any summer trek out east.

HungryHamptons: Snowflake Ice Cream Shoppe (Riverhead, NY)

The Gluttoness — July 17, 2009

There are several hidden gems on Eastern Long Island worth bragging about, one prime example being Snowflake Ice Cream Shoppe, a roadside ice cream shop in Riverhead, NY, which has been open for business since the 1950s. It’s a great pit-stop en route to the Hamptons and a fantastic rainy day destination if you’re out there already.

Restaurant: Snowflake Ice Cream Shoppe (view site)
Address: 1148 West Main Street (Route 25) (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Peconic Swamp Thing, Sorbets

Snowflake is everything you’d expect from a mom and pop roadside ice cream parlor that first opened in 1953. The small space on Route 25 with the giant swirled cone atop it, was purchased in 1987 by Carolyn and Stewart Feldschuh from its original owners, Herb and Joan Kunitz. The ice cream is homemade, and the soft sorbet may be the closest thing to authentic water ice you can find in New York.

Creamsicle and Black Raspberry Sorbet

As for the ice cream, it’s rich and creamy, and comes in about 30 fabulous different flavors. Aside from standard favorites like Mint Chocolate Chip, Strawberry, Cookies and Cream, and Maple Walnut, there are more interesting flavors like: Banana Split and Peanut Butter Cup. The owners’ favorites are Carolyn’s Peconic Swamp Thing: chocolate ice cream, raspberry fudge and brownies, and the Cherry Pistachio, which Stewart Feldschuh is responsible for. It’s a lime green pistachio ice cream riddled with black cherries, an homage to Mr. Feldschuh’s favorite childhood dessert at a local Chinese restaurant in Long Beach, NY, where he grew up. The perfect bite is at the bottom of the cup where the pistachio and cherry flavors eventually meld together.

Cherry Pistachio and Peconic Swamp Thing Ice Cream

Snowflake also offers a flavor of the week. For example, on the Fourth of July it was Red, White & Blueberry. You can send ice cream flavor suggestions to Snowflake by e-mail if you hope to have them turn your dream dessert into a reality. If there were to be a “The Gluttoness” flavor it would include: strawberry ice cream with real strawberries, crushed Butterfinger and a butterscotch swirl.

Featured Dish: Philippe’s Crispy Beef

The Gluttoness — June 26, 2009

Whether you’re on the Upper East Side or in East Hampton, Philippe Chow’s Crispy Beef is one of those sinful dishes that always hits the spot. Health-wise, it’s absolute garbage: deep-fried slivers of beef lacquered with sweet, honey-tinged sauce. Taste-wise it’s awesome, addictive and exponentially better than the original dish at Mr. Chow. For the most part, the menus at these two restaurants are identical. Sure, there is squab in the lettuce wraps at Chow, and the handmade noodles go by Mr. Cheng’s at Philippe, but even with these alterations the dishes taste the same.

The greatest distinction between the cuisines of Mr. Chow and Philippe (restaurant page), its bastard offspring, is in the Crispy Beef. At Mr. Chow you can barely find the stringy bits of beef inside the soggy batter, and excessive oil prevents the dish from achieving the crispiness its name suggests. Philippe’s super-sized version has some serious beefiness beneath an impressive crunch. It’s hard to resist popping these bad boys into your mouth with your fingers— they’re like high-end beef version of Cheetos Crunchy Cheese Puffs. Considering the mountainous portions, don’t say we didn’t warn you: Philippe’s Crispy Beef is best enjoyed when wearing pants with an elastic waistband.

Featured Dessert: Colossal Cookies from Levain Bakery

The Gluttoness — June 23, 2009

Plenty of places are making great cookies these days, take Milk & Cookies Bakery for example, or Momofuku Milk Bar. But the cookies at Levain Bakery (view site) on the Upper West Side, are six-ounce bad boys that separate the average cookie from the big dogs. They look like super-sized scones, have the gooey soft texture of brownies, and are jam-packed with rich goodies. The sheer size of each cookie makes it hard to comprehend that these actually are cookies.

Levain Bakery only makes four cookie flavors. It’s hard to believe anything could be better than their Dark Chocolate Peanut Butter cookie, a rich, dark chocolate treat bedazzled with peanut butter chips (somewhere, a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup is crying). But the Chocolate Chip Walnut, Oatmeal Raisin and Dark Chocolate Chocolate Chip cookies will also transport you to cookie heaven with your first bite.

Each cookie costs $3.75 and a sampling of all 4 will run you $15 at the store. In addition to Levain Bakery’s Upper West Side location there is a Hamptons store in Wainscott. Cookies can also be ordered online and shipped in gift boxes (although a sampling of four costs $22 when ordered online). Either way, educated consumers know this is money well spent—cookies don’t get bigger, or better, than this.

HungryHamptons: Westhampton Beach Farmers’ Market, Stall by Stall

The Gluttoness — June 19, 2009

Crabs from Seatuck Fish Co.

This past Saturday was the debut of the Westhampton Beach Farmers’ Market, and the 24 stalls had the parking lot behind Waldbaum’s bustling with fresh produce, fruit pies, chocolate fudge, homemade pasta and preserves. While Montauk Highway is riddled with roadside stands, this pop-up farmers’ market is known as one of the best in all of the Hamptons.

Highlights included Blue Duck Bakery’s sweet and sour cherry pie, Papa Pasquale’s burrata and homemade Lobster Ravioli, Horman’s spicy pickles and Seatuck’s bucket of live crabs (shown). The market is sponsored by the Westhampton Beach Historical Society, and will operate every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. until mid-November.

Click here for the Stall by Stall >>

AlwaysPartying: Fat Ass Fudge

The Gluttoness — June 16, 2009

Today is National Fudge Day, and when it comes to fudge, one woman really embraces the AlwaysHungry lifestyle. Her name is Donna McCue, and you won’t insult her by calling her a fat ass.

As President of Fat Ass Fudge (located in East Hampton, New York), McCue is the woman responsible for delicious, homemade fudge sold under a brilliant, eye-catching name. She said she purposely chose it in order to make her customers smile. Her organic products are made to order and come in a variety of flavors including: classic dark chocolate, White Chocolate and Almonds, Peanut Butter, Goat Milk Fudge and English Toffee.

You can find McCue in person at the Farmers’ Market in Westhampton Beach on Saturday mornings, or order Fat Ass Fudge on-line. Just remember, as her website proclaims, “Money can’t buy you happiness, but it can buy you fudge.”

HungryHamptons: Stone Creek Inn (East Quogue, NY)

The Gluttoness — June 12, 2009

It doesn’t have the raucous scene of Philippe or the antiquated past of Nick & Toni’s, but Stone Creek Inn is nonetheless a premiere, if under-looked, dining destination in the Hamptons. You’ve probably passed it a million times on Montauk Highway, potentially not even realizing that this renovated, historic building is home to Chef Christian Mir and his modern French and Mediterranean cuisine. Mir, a native of southwest France, and his wife, Elaine DiGiacomo, purchased the East Quogue establishment in 1996, and the elegant, artistic food has lead to a loyal clientele.

Restaurant: Stone Creek Inn
Address: 405 Montauk Highway, East Quogue, NY, 11942 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: B+
Recommended Dishes: Grilled Portuguese Octopus, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare, Crispy Soft Shell Crabs, Herb de Provence Crusted Rack of Lamb

Crispy Soft Shell Crabs w/Fricassee of Faro, Spring Vegetables, Capers, Almonds & Lemon Beurre Blanc

The upscale yet unpretentious setting is as fitting for a romantic date as it is for a group dinner with friends. The seasonal menu features expected stalwarts like Goat Cheese & Beet Salad, Yellowfin Tuna Tartare and Butter Poached Lobster and dishes that demonstrate a commitment to local products like the Duck Meatballs, sourced from nearby Jurgielewicz Farm in Moriches, and an accompanying Wolffer Verjus Reduction from Wolffer Estates Vineyards, also nearby.

Click Here for the full Stone Creek Inn Dish by Dish >>

HungryHamptons: Bagatelle Out, T-Bar In at Savanna’s

June 08, 2009

Before Memorial Day Weekend began, we reported that the Bagatelle crew was going to be taking over at Savanna’s in Southampton. We were NOT wrong. On that Memorial Friday, the Bagatellians were in the restaurant, but unfortunately, they did not even last the whole weekend. After an immediate disagreement with ownership, the deal was over before it started.

Finally, we have more information. Instead of Rosé & EuroTrash, Savanna’s plans on bringing you delicious Steaks & Upper East Side Cougars. This past weekend, Tony Fortuna and the crew from T-Bar Steak & Lounge took the reigns. They spent this weekend working on service, and we can expect menu changes to be made over the next few weeks. More details to come…

Click here to see the dishes that we recommend at T-Bar’s Manhattan restaurant—hopefully most of them will make it out East.

AlwaysInvestigating: Marshmallow Pizza

The Gluttoness — June 02, 2009

It was one of those supermarket moments, where an incredible, unexpected food item suddenly appears, seemingly illuminated like the glow of an angel’s halo. Could it be for real? Mallow Pizza? There it was in the Westhampton Beach Waldbaum’s— sweet perfection in a cellophane package labeled, All American “Fun” Pizza. And really, what’s more American than fifty grams of sugar designed to resemble one of life’s simplest meals in marshmallow form?

The pizza’s base layer of marshmallow is tinted golden brown, with a dark hue used to illustrate a crisper crust around the edges. This is no average marshmallow slice— the tie-dyed blanket of orange and yellow cheese is topped with a crunchy, fruity ‘Pepperoni’ that breaks up the gumminess of the marshmallow, much like the candied gems atop a Carvel ice cream cake. Considering how sweet and chewy it is, just don’t be disappointed with yourself if after ordering a marshmallow pizza from Kandy Kastle, it’s the first slice that you actually can’t finish.

HungryHamptons: Memorial Weekend Food Gifts

Jeff Zalaznick — May 22, 2009

If you are staying at a friend’s out East this Weekend, it is important not to show up empty-handed. It is even more important that you bring something that has to do with food. Despite these economic times, it is still important to bring something over the top, so here are three recession-friendly alternatives to the bank-breaking lobster salad, wagyu beef and caviar, that you used to bring.

1. Wagyu Beef from Japan Premium Beef

To me, Memorial Day Weekend means one thing: that it is time for me to go back to the place that I feel most comfortable. The place where I can really be myself. That place, is behind the grill. As a guest, there is nothing better than showing up with some prime cuts to help this process along. In my mind there is no better gift. If you used to bring American Wagyu Dry-Aged Boneless Ribeyes from Lobel’s Prime Meats (around $100 for 12 ounces), then this year switch to the 12-oz Washugyu Ribeyes from the newly opened Japan Premium Beef (57 Great Jones Street), which are available for around $70. If you want to be even more creative, choose from their impeccable array of other Washugyu cuts. Sixteen ounces of ground beef costs a reasonable $7.99, and could definitely make for some good burgers.

Continue Reading >>

HungryHamptons: Eat Your Way Out of Traffic

The Gluttoness — May 22, 2009

Let’s face it, if you plan on leaving for the Hamptons anytime after noon today, you are going to be stuck in a traffic nightmare. No matter what creative route you come up with, at the end of the day you will probably find yourself on the Long Island Expressway. You can pretend that you don’t mind sitting in traffic, or you could do what any self-respecting person would do for relief: eat. There are two great pit stops along the way (click for Gmap).

1. Little Vincent’s (Huntington, NY)

Pull off the LIE at exit 49N and it’s a straight shot up Route 110. When 110 intersects with Main Street (Route 25A), you’ve arrived. While Little Vincent’s pepperoni pie is fantastic, the obvious choice here is the Cold Cheese Slice, a steaming hot, plain slice with fantastic sauce and a heaping pile of cold mozzarella cheese on top that allows you to eat it quickly without burning the roof of your mouth. To read about the origin of the Cold Cheese Slice read our article about Little Vincent’s.

2. Bobby’s Burger Palace at Smith Haven Mall (Lake Grove, NY)

photo courtesy of khalnayak via Flickr

If you skipped Little Vincent’s hoping that traffic would let up, you’ll probably be starving by the time you get to exit 56. Bobby Flay’s Lake Grove burger joint serves ten different burgers inspired by his American travels and it’s a quick detour. Notable burgers include the Buffalo Burger (Red Hot Sauce, Blue Cheese Dressing and Watercress, above), the Miami Burger (Pressed with Ham, Swiss, Pickles, Mustard and Mayonnaise) and the Santa Fe Burger (Queso Sauce, Pickled Jalapeños and Blue Corn Chips). Angus beef can be substituted wtih ground turkey and chicken breast and all burgers can be served, crunchified (with potato chips). After getting off on exit 56, take NY-111 to NY-347 (Smithtown Bypass) and make a right again for the Smith Haven Mall.

BreakingNews: Bagatelle Southampton

May 21, 2009

According to very close sources, it is time to cue the St. Tropez-style techno beats, as the Bagatelle crew, lead by Aymeric Clemente, will be taking the reigns at Savanna’s restaurant in Southampton. Pascal of PaCri Restaurant in St. Barths will be joining the team as well. More details to come, but it is safe to say that it is time to start mentally preparing yourself for Champagne-fueled, dance party brunches out East!