Hungry Chefs: Scott Smith of RUB BBQ

Arthur Bovino — March 16, 2010

Pit Master Scott Smith.

Burgers, burgers, burgers. Burgers topped with butter, stuffed with cheese, sandwiched with chicken, spread with peanut butter, and topped with fried egg. The Monday night burger special cooked up by pit master, Scott Smith at RUB BBQ, has been a big success. Always Hungry featured two of them, the Butter, and Goober burgers, and A Hamburger Today has gotten into the habit of sending out a weekly alert detailing the night’s featured burger (Scott decides them day-of).

This Monday’s burger eschewed a regional style for the burger that Scott wanted to make— just so he could eat it. What was it? Read the Q&A.

AHNY: What’s the special burger for tonight [Monday]?
Scott Smith: A Bacon and Roaring Forties Blue Cheese Burger served with a horseradish aioli. This one’s for me.

More with Scott Smith >>

Featured Restaurant: Five Leaves

Arthur Bovino — March 15, 2010

Grilled Sardines with Caramelized Cauliflower, Eggplant, Pine nuts, and Curried Date Dressing, and Affogato with an Intelligentsia Organic Espresso Shot at Five Leaves in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

There was a time not long ago, when those walking from the Bedford L toward McGuinness had already filled their bellies, or well knew the contents of their fridge. It was a hike past the Turkey’s Nest, the concrete baseball field, and the benches near the Automotive High School, to their vinyl-sided homes. Unless they planned to eat Polish, Thai, or at Wasabi, passing N 12th without having eaten was a no-no. But change comes fast in Williamsburg, and this energy has spread to Greenpoint. So it is that Five Leaves, a neighborhood joint, provides this hipster trail of tears a place to feast on the way.

More About Five Leaves >>

AlwaysInvestigating: X-Tudo Burger

Arthur Bovino — March 08, 2010

Cross-section of the X-Tudo Burger at New York Pão de Queijo in Astoria, Queens.

Any sandwich whose name begins with an ‘X,’ especially a sandwich that is Brazilian, deserves attention. That goes double when that X is followed by ‘tudo,’ which means ‘everything’ in Portuguese. Many of Brazil’s snack bars serve a version of the X-Tudo, which is a cheeseburger with many toppings. While New York has its own non-Brazilian, topping-towering burgers (the Sunburnt Cow’s Burger with the Lot for one), finding one with South American flare is more difficult. One place where you can find the X-Tudo is New York Pão de Queijo (left) in Astoria.

More about the X-Tudo >>

AlwaysSoBe: Symon and Schwartz Take Burger Bash

February 26, 2010

Clockwise from top: B Spot’s Fat Doug Burger, Michael’s Genuine Bacon Cheeseburger, Morimoto’s Pork “Kakuni” Burger, and The Standard Hotel’s Mini Blue Burger.

The burger barons came out to play at last night’s Amstel Light Burger Bash, kicking off the 2010 South Beach Wine & Food Festival in epically gluttonous style. Presented by Allen Brothers, and hosted by Rachel Ray, the event featured entries from 27 chefs from around the country.

Returning champ, Spike Mendelsohn, still riding high off his victory in New York, came prepared to throw down. Spike was surrounded by a cheering squad, and donned boxing gloves and a robe, like the Ali of Burgers. His Farmhouse Bacon Cheeseburger was solid, but ultimately it was Michael Schwartz of Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, holding home court advantage, who took home the Golden Grill Award for his Michael’s Genuine Bacon Cheeseburger.

For the people’s choice award, it all came down to a tight race between fellow Iron Chefs Bobby Crunch Master Flay and Michael Symon. In the end, Symon’s Fat Doug Burger triumphed over Flay’s crunchified Dallas Burger. We couldn’t agree more. As much as we enjoyed Blackberry Farm’s Chow Chow Cheeseburger and Marc Burger’s Crunchy BBQ Kobe Burger, Symon’s combination of a juicy patty, salty, crunchy pastrami bits, and a soft potato roll was easily our favorite.

Click here for the winners, some of our favorites, and the full slideshow >>

AlwaysTraveling: El Mago de las Fritas (Miami, FL)

GutterGourmet — February 24, 2010

Clockwise from top: The Frita Cubana, Mango Batido, outside El Mago de las Fritas.

Restaurant: El Mago de las Fritas
Address: 5828 Southwest 8th St, West Miami, FL 33144
Hours: Mon-Sat, 8:00am-7:30pm; Closed Sunday.
Contact: (305) 266-8486‎
Grade: A+
Always Hungry Recommends: Frita Cubana. El Mago also whips up a mean Mango Batido.

Forget about Butter Burgers, Goober Burgers, or LaFrieda Black Label Burgers. Forget sliders, Shack Burgers, Crunch Burgers or In-N-Out. There is a regional style of hamburger in Miami that has been overlooked by the likes of Kuban, Solares, and Ozersky. El Mago (the Magician) de las Fritas makes magic with the Cuban version of the hamburger: the Frita Cubana.

El Mago de las Fritas is west of Little Havana on Calle Ocho in a non-descript strip mall with exactly five parking spots. Their Cuban hamburgers ($3.00) combine elements of other regional styles. First the bread— a soft, white Cuban bun. Then the blend— beef and chorizo, the paprika staining the bun. The technique— it’s steamed on a flat top, and smashed flat with a spatula.

There is cheese for the gringos, but El Mago’s standard toppings include: ketchup, sautéed onions, and lastly, potato sticks. Not the greasy, canned variety. Not even shoestring fries. But tiny ethereal wisps that can best be described as a potato bird’s nest. Unlike Flay’s addition of potato chips, these provide just the right crunch.

The Magician must have sensed that we made a good team: as quickly as his sleight of hand produced the fritas, I made them disappear.

AlwaysInvestigating: Another (Peanut) Butter Burger

Arthur Bovino — February 17, 2010

RUB BBQ’s Goober Burger.

We’ve said it before, you don’t need to visit Wisconsin to know that slapping a half-stick of butter on a burger makes sense. But how about peanut butter? RUB BBQ’s clever Monday night rotating burger special continues, and the burger this Presidents’ Day was the Goober Burger.

More Butter, More Goober, More Burgers! >>

Featured Restaurant: Xi’an Famous Foods

GutterGourmet and Arthur Bovino — February 12, 2010

Clockwise from top: Cumin Lamb Burger, Spicy Pork Spine Noodle Soup, Exterior.

The greeting card and federal holidays have been getting all the love. But this weekend also marks the Chinese New Year: The Year of the Tiger. And if you haven’t yet been to Xi’an’s new satellite, there’s not a more buzzed about place in Chinatown to visit for a meal to bring in the new year.

Xi’an Famous Foods is beneath the Manhattan Bridge near the corner of East Broadway and Forsyth, next to where the original Saigon Bakery used to be (for banh mi trivia experts). There’s as much room for customers as there is for one more person to squeeze into the last car of a Brooklyn-bound L at 1st Ave during rush hour. Stake out the tiny metal counter in the corner, or have a spot to eat nearby in mind. Hint: there are two Starbucks within about eight blocks (111 Worth St and 183 Centre St).

Of course, the dish that put the “Famous” in Xi’an Famous Foods is the incredible Asian cumin spiced lamb “burger” on flat bread. The muttony, powerful, cumin-flavored meat totally delivers on its reputation. The pork “burger” will make you forget about David Chang’s Momofuku buns (for a moment). They’re spectacular and are 50 cents less then the lamb at $2.00 and $2.50, respectively.

For the thrill seeker, there’s the Spicy and Tingly Lamb Face Salad. The cold, fatty, spicy meat has just enough greens mixed in to be put in that category. The Lamb Treasure’s Soup (exactly what you think), and the Stewed Lamb Spine and Rib are also not for the faint of heart. The noodles in the Stewed Lamb Spine Hand-Pulled Noodles in Soup are amazing, and the soup gets better and better as you reach the bottom. If they run out of the lamb spine, try the pig spine— it’s delicious too. Wash it all down with sour Hawberry tea made from the fruit of the Chinese Hawthorne tree and you’ll think you’re in Xi’an City instead of New York City.

Featured Dish: Berliner Brat Burger

GutterGourmet — February 08, 2010

Clockwise from top: Berliner Brat Burger, Freakin Deal, and a Bratwurst.

Rolf Babiel has been missed since he passed last October, but thankfully, his brother Wolfgang carries on the Hallo Berlin cart tradition. I spent many a day on the corner of Fifth and 54th, waiting for my order to be ready— one of the great combination specials, often the ‘Dr. Atkins,’ or the ‘Churchill.’ Then there’s the ‘Freakin Deal,’ a wurst with onions, potato salad, and a warm crusty roll— a freakin’ deal indeed for $4.00. I loved to eat from an overflowing paper tray at one of the little folding counters on either side of the cart while watching Rolf slice the wursts and throw fresh ones on the grill.

But it’s a little cold for standing around outside, so lately I’ve taken to visiting Hallo Berlin Express on 9th Ave and 50th St. It has given me occasion to enjoy a sandwich that has not been given enough attention— the Triple B.

The Berliner Brat Burger is served on toasted bread with horseradish mustard and a pickle ($5.00). As the name suggests, it’s actually not so much a burger, as it is a salty, porky sausage in burger form. The one problem you encounter is that the bread doesn’t hold up to the juicy patty and its other toppings: rotwein, sauerkraut, and sautéed onions. But that won’t matter much when you down it while quaffing one of the German drafts they have on hand.

AlwaysInformed: The Butter Burger

GutterGourmet — January 25, 2010

Lexington Candy Shop’s Butter Burger goes great with one of their Chocolate Malteds.

The Lexington Candy Shop on the corner of 83rd and Lexington Avenue proudly announces its most well-known specialties beneath its windows: “Malteds, Sundaes and Fountain Service. But it’s most interesting menu item, the Lexington Butter Burger, is curiously less heralded.

The windows contain an amazing collection of international and limited edition Coca-Cola bottles, all full. They still mix the Coke using syrup and soda water in iconic glasses as done in 1925 when the restaurant was established. The soda “jerks” know what they’re doing. They’re equally adept at mixing a mean egg cream, and what is perhaps the City’s best chocolate malted (at $8 it may be the planet’s most expensive). But you’re here for the Butter Burger.

Click here to read about the Butter Burger at the Lexington Candy Shop >>

Featured Dish: Havoc Burger

GutterGourmet — January 11, 2010

Patty & Bun’s Havoc Burger.

Patty & Bun is one of the latest entrants to New York’s burger wars. An attractive bar on W. 8th Street next to Gray’s Papaya, P&B distinguishes itself from the rest of the burger crowd by wreacking havoc on our conception of the traditional burger. While P&B’s burgers have been written up, some of the more interesting sandwiches on the menu, like a Monk Fish BLT, The Caddy Patty (“biko vakra” beef patty topped with shredded braised duck and shiitakes), and the Havoc Burger haven’t gotten as much attention. We visited recently to check out the latter.

Cross-section of the Havoc Burger.

The Havoc Burger (deluxe, $15) forces you to redefine what makes a great burger. There’s the unorthodox, so-called “tequila drop bun” (not spicy, but chewy like a kaiser roll), which stands up nicely to the juicy burger, the condiments (Portale-piled-high chimichurri and pickled Napa red cabbage), and a meat blend that could confuse even Pat LaFrieda: beef, lamb and pork. American cheese and ketchup are not only unnecessary here, they’re unthinkable add-ons to this unique burger.

While the bun holds together nicely, this isn’t the kind of burger you’re going to want to put down— the sauce drips everywhere. This is great flavor-wise, but it also adds moisture to a patty that the restaurant makes sure to cook all the way through because of the pork mixed in.

Best of 2009: AlwaysHungry’s Top Stories

December 17, 2009

Clockwise from top left, AlwaysHungry’s most popular posts in 2009.

From bacon to doubles, Anne Burrell to Kenny Shopsin, AlwaysHungry has been all over your New York City food radar. So while you’ve probably already seen these awesome articles, in the spirit of the end of the year and all that is the December-holy-round-up (just in case you’ve had too many eggnogs and have forgotten), we present the top ten most popular posts for AlwaysHungry’s inaugural year.

Click Here for the Top Ten Most Popular Posts on AlwaysHungryNY.com during 2009 >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Bobby’s Burger Palate

Arthur Bovino — December 07, 2009

Top, the Burger Americain with Pimento Cheese on Bar Americain’s lunch menu. Left, composed burger. Right, cross-section.

During a recent visit to MARK Burger, Chef Erik Rubin noted to a colleague that one of his favorite burgers in New York City was at a place he once worked, Bar Americain. MARK Burgers’ quality and Rubin’s esteem for Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain Burger piqued some curiosity. In the wake of Flay’s NYCWFF Burger Bash entry, his CBS slider discussion and the opening of Bar Americain’s second location, it was time for a State of the Hamburger at Flay’s New York restaurants.

Burger-by-Burger: Mesa Grill, Bar Americain and Bobby's Burger Palace >>

AlwaysInformed: Thanksgiving Burger

Maryse Chevrière — November 24, 2009

A cross-section of New York Burger Co.‘s Thanksgiving Burger.

Every holiday should be burgerfied. Something that New York Burger Co. (view) picked up on, at least for Thanksgiving. In honor of Turkey Day, the restaurant is serving a special Thanksgiving Burger.

The turkey burger ($6.75) comes topped with a generous smear of maple sweet potato mash and cranberry orange chutney. The burger is good, the meat is juicy and well-seasoned, and the combination with the sweet chutney truly harkens the flavors of the classic holiday feast. The only issue is the sweet potato mash— its sloppy, mushy texture adds little. If anything, it weighs the burger down, masking the turkey and contributing unnecessary sweetness. What it really needs is stuffing—arguably the best element in any Thanksgiving sandwich.

The burger will be on the menu through this Friday, November 27th, since presumably no one is going to want to eat turkey after this week. And if they are, it’ll be on a sandwich at home with leftovers.

Featured Dish: The Gargiulo

Arthur Bovino — November 23, 2009

Top, the Gargiulo, Brennan & Carr’s Burger Smothered w/Roast Beef and Cheese, in a “half-cup” of broth. Left, back in the day (courtesy, brennanandcarr.kpsearch.com). Right, Brennan & Carr, presently.

“Hot Beef.”

There’s little new about Brennan & Carr in Gravesend, Brooklyn. The squat, roadside beefeteria has been doing its thing since 1938: roast beef in a setting where if you squint, it could be a Revolutionary War era tavern. The roof’s sign says most of what you need to know. The rest is application: hot beef broth, hot beef burger, hot roast beef, hot beef burger topped with hot roast beef and cheese.

The roast beef is cheap and tasty, the fries are fine, and the frank tastes like the kind of dog you’d get at a beer hall. Of the other items, the onion rings are the most notable (a Burger King like exterior, but they’re bigger). But it’s all about the Gargiulo ($5.90), a “burger smothered in roast beef” and cheese. With all the burger newcomers to New York City, it pays to remember a classic. The Gargiulo, waiters explain, was named for the employees of the Coney Island Italian stalwart, Gargiulo’s Restaurant, frequent customers who concocted the sandwich.

If you haven’t been, don’t be confused, while the Gargiulo is on the take-out window menu, it’s not on the placemat menu. Don’t be deceived by its appearance either. Like most sandwiches (most everything actually) at Brennan & Carr (view), the Gargiulo requires dipping in a “half-cup” of the blister-your-mouthroof-hot-jus, which doubles as an incredibly tasty, very beefy Beef Broth Soup.

The process goes like this. Cut burger in half. Dunk. Pause. Soak. Wait. Wait. Okay, eat. There’s an infusion of flavor, the meat goes soft and juicy, the onions seem sweeter, the cheese gets all melty Kraft Single-like, and the bread turns into a moist kaiser sponge filled with flavor. It’s like a riff on French Onion Soup, American-style, with a burger sitting in it.

Remember, if you don’t do the dunk, you’ve missed the point.

Click Here for More Beautiful Pictures of the Food at Brennan & Carr >>

AlwaysInformed: Aureole’s Grilled Burger

AlwaysHungry — November 11, 2009

In today’s Dining Section, Sam Sifton wrote that the food at the new Aureole is “meh,” that is, except for the “extremely good” Aureole Grilled Burger. We totally agree. Below is AlwaysHungryNY.com’s post of July 21, 2009, lauding Chef Christopher Lee’s recommended dish-worthy burger:

Aureole Grilled Burger with Onion Rings.

There is no denying that New York Magazine assembled an epic slideshow of New York’s 82 Most Notable Burgers. While their round-up was ridiculously thorough, there may be a few burgers worth noting that have popped up since the list was finalized. Case in point, #83: Aureole’s Grilled Burger.

That Charlie Palmer’s Aureole (view) even has a hamburger on the menu shows how it has evolved from its stuffy, Upper East Side past. The “Aureole” Grilled Burger ($19) is available at lunch, and à la carte as a “bar room snack,” at dinner. It’s topped with Smoked Bacon, Vermont White Cheddar and Pickled Ramp Dressing.

Click Here to Read More About Aureole's Grilled Burger >>