Featured Restaurant: Le Gigot
GutterGourmet — August 30, 2010
Gigot d’Agneau aux Flageolet and Crème Brûlée at Le Gigot.
Enter Le Gigot. Içi Paris. The only things missing are the French accordion music and the mimes. Pick one of the 10 tiny bistro tables and you’ve abandoned Cornelia Street for the Left Bank
AlwaysInvestigating: Cheeky Sandwiches
GutterGourmet — August 23, 2010
A half shrimp & Half oyster Po’ boy, and “Ben-Yay’s” at Cheeky’s Sandwiches on Orchard Street,
Calvin Trillin used to joke when asked where to find the best po’ boy in New York that you have to go to Queens then take a plane from LaGuardia directly to New Orleans. I agreed until I wandered into Cheeky Sandwiches on Orchard and ordered a half shrimp, half oyster po’ boy, fully dressed, of course.
In Philly, only hoagies or cheesesteaks made with Sarcone’s Bakery bread are the real McCoy. In Miami the only bread worthy of a Cubano is Cuban lard bread. So it is with the bread for Cheeky’s po’ boy. Cheeky gets its bread from John Gendusa Bakery, which, in 1929, created the New Orleans French bread without which po’ boys would be naked rather than fully dressed.
Featured Dish: D’Artagnan’s Mangalitsa Ham
GutterGourmet — August 18, 2010
Mangalitsa from Grace’s Marketplace, now imported by D’Artagnan.
Did you celebrate the legal importation of Jamón Ibérico Bellota? Have you too broken the law with smuggled Culatello di Zibello? Well, there’s a new pig in town. As recently noted in The Times, D’Artagnan is now importing and distributing Mangalitsa ham. The wooly, Hungarian Mangalica, or Mangalitsa, is literally a pig in sheep’s clothing. We sampled a preview at last year’s Oktoberfest at Klee Brasserie in Chef Daniel Angerer’s porky strudel, but had to taste the new stuff.
Cured in Spain, Mangalitsa is very similar to the Ibérico. At $80/lb, it might be described as a “poor man’s Ibérico,” as Ibérico sliced a mano can fetch twice that price. The fat of the Mangalitsa is not as redolent of the oil of nuts as the Bellota, which is only used to describe the Iberian hogs nourished on acorns. The Mangalitsa’s diet consists of barley, wheat, corn, soybean, and grass. This doesn’t produce the same meltingly-fatty marbling as the Ibérico Bellota.
We recently sampled a ¼lb of Mangalitsa ($20), and can report that it was good, though not Ibérico good. In fairness, this Mangalitsa was not bone-in, and was machine sliced. Hand-slicing would undoubtedly improve the texture. Still, it’s a welcome addition to New York’s growing charcuterie obsession. The ham is available at Grace’s Marketplace, which by the way is as close to the original Balducci’s as you can get (Grace was Balducci’s daughter).
Location: Grace’s Marketplace
Address: 1237 3rd Avenue (at 71st St)
Contact: (212) 737-0600
Hours: Mon-Fri 7:00AM-8:30PM, Sat & Sun 8:00AM-7:00PM
AlwaysInvestigating: Philly’s Eternal Food Questions
GutterGourmet — August 04, 2010
A Philadelphia sandwich trio: a Cheesesteak from Pat’s Steaks, DiNic’s Roast Pork Sandwich, and an Italian Hoagie from Sarcone’s Bakery.
In ancient times travelers would seek answers to the eternal questions from the Oracle at Delphi. Recently, we sought food wisdom on an Odyssey in Phila-Delphi-a, but these questions were of far greater import than the Riddle of the Sphinx at Thebes:
1. Which cheesesteak is better— Pat’s or Geno’s?
2. What the hell is an Italian “hoagie” and is it better than a New York hero?
3. Is the Philly Roast Pork sandwich truly the greatest sandwich in the universe?
Always Investigating: Balkan cuisine at Djerdan
GutterGourmet — August 02, 2010
Traditional Veal Kebabs at Djerdan Burek.
On 38th Street, just west of 7th Avenue is a quiet, unassuming restaurant below street level that looks like it could be the home of the Bosnian Social Club. Fortunately for us, it’s not members only, and Djerdan Burek offers great Balkan cuisine to anyone daring to venture in.
Always Informed: A-Pou’s Taste
GutterGourmet — July 28, 2010
Taiwanese “Special” Pork Dumplings with Hot Chili Sauce from A-Pou’s Taste in Astor Place.
I admit, I’m prone to addiction. So, I’m an easy mark for a dealer, particularly one who sets up around the corner from my home on Astor and Lafayette. I smell the smoke and gotta get me some pot…stickers. A-Pou’s Taste (A-Pou meaning “Grandma’s”) is a new Taiwanese street cart that offers a choice of four different pot stickers.
There are vegetarian, kimchi beef, and Hong Kong chicken dumplings, but I was sold on their signature offering: Taiwanese “Special” Pork. Five long, pan-seared, crêpes-like dumpling beauties for $3.50. The lady squirts soy sauce over the dumplings, but it’s quickly overtaken by a deceptively sweet (at first) hot chili sauce packed with pepper seeds.
I’m hopelessly hooked. God damn, God damn the pot-stickerman.
Restaurant: A-Pou’s Taste
Location: South side of Astor Place, b/n Fourth Avenue and Lafayette.
Hours: Mon-Sat, 10:00am-10:00pm.
Featured Restaurant: Mama’s Food Shop
GutterGourmet — July 26, 2010
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Clockwise from top: Fried Chicken, Honey Roasted Carrots and Mac n’ Cheese, exterior.
I always wondered why Roger and JJ in the 70’s sitcoms, “What’s Happening!!” and “Good Times,” were so skinny when their mamas were so pleasantly plump. Clearly, they were missing out on some good cooking. (Maybe that’s why Rerun spent so much time at Roger’s house.) While no one behind the counter at Mama’s Food Shop on East 3rd off of Avenue B fits the description of those sitcom mamas, I always imagine that’s who is doing all the cooking there. The place literally drips with soul.
Featured Restaurant: South Brooklyn Pizza
GutterGourmet — July 19, 2010
A Margherita slice at South Brooklyn Pizza in the East Village.
I’ve devoted a large part of my life in search of great pizza. I don’t go around joking, or lightly declaring a “new greatest” pizza. But, I recently had a private tour with Jack, the pizzaiolo at the new South Brooklyn Pizzeria on First Avenue near 7th street, and folks, there’s a new greatest pizza in town.
Featured Restaurant: Khyber Pass
GutterGourmet — June 30, 2010
Lamb Shish Kebab with Tomatoes, Onions, and Brown Basmati Rice at Khyber Pass on St Mark’s Place.
If you’re like me, you organize your take-out menus by cuisine. If you’re a little more obsessive-compulsive, you might even alphabetize them. It helps with the following, nightly conversation about where to eat.
“Hey, honey, what kind of take-out do you want?” American? No. Japanese? Nope. Korean? Doesn’t cut it anymore. Mexican? Moroccan? Nah. Wait, I’ve got it. Pizza! Kidding. Just kidding. Recently, just as I was about to start over again, I noticed that I had missed something I had filed in the A’s: Afghani food.
Featured Cocktail: Scotch Flight at Keens
GutterGourmet — June 24, 2010
The Dinner Flight of Scotch at Keens Steakhouse.
When my testosterone flows unchecked, it’s time for Scotch and beef. And a flight at Keens Steakhouse is the way to go.
Start with the Dinner Flight: Auchentoshan 12 year Lowland, Cragganmore 12 year Speyside, Bowmore “Legend” Islay, and Glen Ord 30 year Highland ($31.00) The complexity, smokiness, and peatiness get progressively intense, making a fine wine or cheese seem simple by comparison.
Pair your flight with The King’s Cut Prime Rib and you complete the illusion that you have become the King of Scots, particularly when accompanied by a chaser of Murphy’s Stout (okay, that’s Irish, but after a flight or two, exceptions must be made). The haunch of beef done to an exact rare to medium rare with a side of horseradish au jus. As you stagger out of the pub room onto the street, you’ll deem yourself the master of all you survey. Just try not to fall into a bog on the walk home.
AlwaysInvestigating: Sandwich Planet’s Napalm Burger
GutterGourmet — June 23, 2010
The Napalm Burger at Sandwich Planet, with a cross-section.
Recently, we profiled the Hellfire Slice. Today, we’re turning up the heat by reviewing Sandwich Planet’s Napalm Burger. Because of its location near the edge of the known solar system (the entrance to the Lincoln Tunnel on 9th Avenue and 39th), stumbling upon Sandwich Planet can be like discovering Pandora. In lieu of Unobtainium, Sandwich Planet fulfills our species’ need for sandwiches and variety.
AlwaysInvestigating: Panini at Salumè
GutterGourmet — June 21, 2010
The San Danielle, a Prosciutto Crudo Panini at Salumè in SoHo.
Over the past few years it seems that every deli in the city, even the Korean ones, began offering warm “panini.” Unfortunately, this quickly became equated with Italian grilled cheese. Milan native, Michele Colombo, is attempting to rectify this with his fashionable panini shop, Salumè, in SoHo. But, instead of pressing his sandwiches into Italian Cubans, Colombo’s fresh warm rolls and open-faced toasted canapés enhance the mostly Italian imported ingredients.
AlwaysStrong: Lola (Great Neck, Long Island)
GutterGourmet — June 18, 2010
Lola Duck à la Yuzu Orange, the signature dish at Lola in Great Neck.
Restaurant: Lola
Location: 13 Middle Neck Road, Great Neck
Contact: (516)466-5666
Hours: Tue-Fri, Lunch, 12:00pm-3:00pm; Bar Specials, 5:00pm-6:30pm; Dinner, 5:30pm-10pm. Thur-Sat, Dinner, 5:30pm-11:00pm. Sun, dinner, 4:00pm-10:00pm.
Grade: A-
Recommended Dishes: Whole Lola Duck.
“Well I’m not dumb but I can’t understand
Why she walked like a woman and talked like a man
Oh my Lola lo-lo-lo-lo Lola lo-lo-lo-lo Lola.”
— Lola, The Kinks
Looks can be deceiving. So it is with Lola on Long Island. You’d never expect to find a restaurant of such quality with these ingredients, and a chef of this stature on Middle Neck Road in the heart of Great Neck. But, we shouldn’t be surprised by Lola’s chef and owner, Michael Ginor. After all, he is not only the author of my all-time favorite cookbook, “Foie Gras: A Passion,” he is also the founder and owner of Hudson Valley Foie Gras, the upstate producer and purveyor of foie gras.
AlwaysPartying: Big Apple Barbecue Block Party 2010
GutterGourmet — June 14, 2010
Left, BBQ Pork Steak Sandwich from Wildwood Barbecue. Right, top down, whole hog from Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint, Dinosaur Bar-B-Que’s Pork Shoulder, Smoked Sausage from Jim ‘N Nick’s Bar-B-Q.
When I got my Fast Pass for the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party, I became as giddy as a six-year old cutting the line to ride Dumbo at Disneyland. The first ride at the Block Party is always Ed Mitchell’s The Pit. Fire, brimstone, smoke, chopping blades, decapitated whole hogs, and gluttons. If this is hell, I’ve died and gone to heaven.
More Photographs of the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party 2010 >>
First Look: Whitmans’ Juicy Lucy Burger
GutterGourmet — June 09, 2010
Whitmans’ Juicy Lucy in the East Village with French fries.
“I find no sweeter fat than sticks to my own bones,” from Song of Myself, Walt Whitman.
Walt’s new namesake restaurant on 9th Street just east of 1st Avenue is still getting its bearings before the dining room opens downstairs where they will be sourcing fresh, local foods. Grass-fed beef, pickles cured in Brooklyn, pork, etc. Until then, the draw is the upstairs burger counter, which Whitmans’ chef, Chris Edwards, and owners have given some immediate cache with a Juicy Lucy.
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