James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

AlwaysTraveling: Mercado Municipal (São Paulo, Brazil)

A stand featuring various peppers in São Paulo’s indoor city food market, Mercado Municipal.

Location: Mercado Municipal
Address: Rua da Cantareira 306, São Paulo, Brazil
Hours: Mon-Sat, 6:00am-6:00pm, Sun and Holidays, 6:00am-4:00pm
Notes: Near the São Bento Metrô.
Grade: A
Recommended Dishes: A good bet is to hop from stand to stand, sampling the many fruits you’ve likely never seen before. The Brazuca from Mortadela Brasil.

 

Rio de Where? For all the beauty of Pão de Açúcar, the lover of food and skyscrapers visiting Brazil will likely admit to preferring São Paulo. And when it comes to produce in Sampa, the Mercado Municipal is tough to beat. Neobaroque-style architecture, an upstairs food court packed with Brazilian snacks and sandwiches from more than 20 stands, an open-air hall filled with at least 300 booths carrying more fruits than there are English words for them.

The Mercado, which was completed in 1933, is just a fifteen-minute walk northeast of Praça da Sé on Rua da Cantareira. It’s a grand, spacious hall whose most striking architectural features are the large stained-glass windows, which feature scenes of plantations and animal husbandry.

Downstairs are the food stalls: cured meats, eggs, and fish. Fruits and vegetables too— you can test yourself against a variety of pimentas and sample exotic and beautiful (though expensive) fruits: Cherimoya, Atemoya, Cashew Apple, Guaraná, Guanabana, and Jackfruit, just to name a few.

More Photographs from São Paulo's Mercado Municipal >>

AlwaysFresh: 77th Street Market (5/2/10)

In Always Fresh, Always Hungry visits the City’s farmers’ markets to seek out the seasonal ingredients that inspire the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

Asparagus from Gajeski Produce.

This week, we were at the 77th Street Greenmarket (77th St & Columbus Ave). Part farmers’ market, part flea market, this Upper West Side venue is one of the best spots for unique finds and fresh produce.

Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our tour of the 77th Street Greenmarket. Remember, you can use Always Hungry’s Seasonal Calendar to find out what is currently in season.

More Photographs from the 77th Street Greenmarket >>

AlwaysFresh: Tompkins Square Park (4/25/10)

In Always Fresh, Always Hungry visits the City’s farmers’ markets to seek out the seasonal ingredients that inspire the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

Tricolor Sage - Tompkins Square Park, East Village, NY

Tricolor Sage from Stannard Farm.

This week, we were at the Tompkins Square Park Greenmarket (Avenue A and E. 7th St), where overcast skies and a little rain weren’t enough to keep fervent market-goers away. Although not one of the larger markets, for locals, the excellent cheeses from Consider Bardwell Farm, and the selection of fresh seafood from Pura Vida Fishery, are worth the visit.

Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our tour of the Tompkins Square Park Greenmarket. Remember, you can use Always Hungry’s Seasonal Calendar to find out what is currently in season.

More Photographs from the Tompkins Square Greenmarket >>

AlwaysFresh: Union Square Greenmarket (4/7/10)

In Always Fresh, Always Hungry visits the City’s farmers’ markets to seek out the seasonal ingredients which inspire the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

Ramps from Mountain Sweet Berry Farms.

It was a long winter, but it’s finally over. People look happy and slinky. Everyone is shedding layers, and brimming over with the goodness that is spring. That means it’s time to welcome back Always Fresh, Always Hungry’s greenmarket photography series wherein we hit the farmers’ markets in search of seasonal ingredients in neighborhoods around the City.

This week, we were at the Union Square Greenmarket. Ramps, here we come!

Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our farmers’ market tour in Union Square. Remember, you can use Always Hungry’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out what is currently in season.

More Photographs from Union Square Greenmarket >>

AlwaysTraveling: Nagycsarnok (Budapest, Hungary)

The sign above this market entrance in Budapest, “Isamu Vásárcsarnok,” means Isamu Market Hall.

Market: Nagycsarnok, Great Market Hall
Address: 1056 Budapest, V. kerület, Fővám tér 1, Hungary
Highlights: Paprika, Strudel, Tokaji, Unicum, Pálinka
Hours: Mon 6am-5pm, Tue-Fri 6am-5pm, Sat 6am-2pm, Sun closed.

Nagycsarnok, also known as the Great Market Hall, is Budapest’s largest indoor market. It supposedly came about at the turn of the 19tth century, after the unification of Pest and Óbuda, when outdoor markets were unable to supply the growing city with fresh produce. Leaders decided to build a covered market hall similar to those elsewhere in Europe at the time. Nagycsarnok was designed by Samu Pecz, and completed in 1894, but caught fire and had to be repaired before it could reopen in 1897. The market was reconstructed between 1991 and 1994.

More Photographs of the Great Market Hall >>

AlwaysInformed: Local Flours and Beans

Assorted Beans from Cayuga Pure Organics.

Seeing local New York grains and beans from Cayuga Pure Organics at the Union Square and Grand Army Plaza greenmarkets (as noted yesterday in The Times) will inspire locavores to rejoice. While local flours and beans haven’t been completely absent from the New York scene, they’re still not found de rigueur. Cayuga’s grains and beans mean one less thing that must be bought at the supermarket.

Even if you’re not a loca-nut this is still something to be happy about— it is winter after all, what better time to warm your belly with Cayuga’s cracked wheat cereal (a better version of cream of wheat) or to make chili with fresh, quick-cooking beans? Their spelt and half-wheat flours are great for baking and they give piecrusts and muffins a heartier, richer flavor. Also expected at the markets in the near future is artisan bread made from Cayuga’s locally milled flour, which their New York City sales manager, Tycho Dan described as being so good, “It’s like it’s got drugs in it or something.”

Click Here For An Interview With a Cayuga Vendor About Local Flour and Beans >>

AlwaysFresh: Union Square Greenmarket (11/25/09)

Bluepoint Oysters from Westport Aquaculture.

The AlwaysHungryNY.com Crew is hitting the streets and visiting the city’s farmers’ markets, seeking the seasonal ingredients, which inspire the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

This week, we were at the Union Square Greenmarket. The booths for the holiday market were going up, there was a chill in the air, and the light was beautiful. It was an all-around great day for perusing produce and people watching. One bit of news we overheard came from Capt. Jeff Northrop and crew at the Westport Aquaculture booth. Apparently, they’re trying to get approved to shuck oysters and clams at the market. Open-air raw bar at Union Square? Now that would be an interesting development.

Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our farmers’ market tour in Union Square. Remember, you can use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out what is currently in season.

 

AlwaysFresh: 57th Street Market (11/18/09)

Garlic from Morgiewicz Produce.

The AlwaysHungryNY.com Crew is hitting the streets and heading to farmers’ markets throughout the city to scope out the fresh, seasonal ingredients that are inspiring the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

This week, we were at the 57th Street Market (W. 57th St and Ninth Avenue, Wed and Sat, 8am-6pm). Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our farmers’ market tour in Midtown. Remember, you can always use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out what is currently in season.

 

AlwaysFresh: Brooklyn Borough Hall Market (11/11/09)

The AlwaysHungryNY.com Crew is hitting the streets and heading to farmers’ markets throughout the city to scope out the fresh, seasonal ingredients that are inspiring the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

This week, we were at the Brooklyn Borough Hall Market (Court & Remsen Street, Tues, Sat 8am-6pm). Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our farmers’ market tour in Brooklyn. Remember, you can always use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out what is currently in season.

 

AlwaysFresh: City Hall Park Market

The AlwaysHungryNY.com Team is hitting the streets and heading to farmers’ markets throughout the city to scope out the fresh, seasonal ingredients that are inspiring the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

This week, we were at the City Hall Park Market. Click on the thumbnails below for pictures from our farmers’ market tour in City Hall. Remember, you can always use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out what is currently in season.

 

AlwaysFresh: A Day at Stone Barns

Tomorrow at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture is their Sixth Annual Harvest Fest, a community celebration of the farm at its most fruitful. As our Calendar notes, family-friendly festivities will include live music, a farm market, hayrides and games from 10:00am to 3:00pm. Here is a beautiful piece about a day spent at Stone Barns by Michelle Kiefer, an AlwaysHungryNY.com contributor.

 

Top, Stone Barns Farm. Bottom left, Raspberry Coffee Cake. Right, Blue Hill Café.

As fantastic as a meal is at Blue Hill at Stone Barns (restaurant page) it’s not something everyone can afford. But as a recent visit demonstrated, you don’t have to splurge to have a great time eating and experiencing Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture (view site). And it’s closer than you think, just a forty-five minute drive or a thirty-five minute ride from Grand Central to Tarrytown on the Hudson Line’s express train followed by a 10-minute, $12 cab ride to the farm.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysFresh: The New Amsterdam Market

Beautiful handmade pastas made by The Ravioli Store in Long Island City.

We really enjoyed wandering through the debut of the third annual New Amsterdam Market (view site) this past Sunday on South Street by the Seaport, and not just because of all the free samples of bread, chocolate and sausages. If you haven’t been yet, you have to check it out. There are more than 70 vendors selling everything from farm fresh produce to baked goods and cooked foods in the bustling atmosphere of legendary public market halls like London’s Borough Market.

You’ll be pleased to come across familiar names like Marlow & Sons, Saxelby Cheesemongers, and Sullivan Street Bakery as well as newcomers like Basis, which Grub Street noted is planning to open a retail store late fall, and Saltie, former chef Caroline Fidanza’s (Marlow & Sons and Diner) takeout spot/bakery, which is slated to open tomorrow in Williamsburg (378 Metropolitan Ave).

If you missed the market check out our great pictures, then get down there from 11am to 4pm on one of the next three remaining dates (10/25, 11/22 and 12/20).

 

AlwaysFresh: Slow Food NYC Harvest Time Pot Luck Lunch

Walnut Pesto Pasta Salad.

If there’s one thing we’re not AlwaysHungry for, it’s school cafeteria lunches— slimy pizzas with cardboard crusts and mystery meat specials hardly conjure Proustian food memories. School lunches are the focus of Slow Food USA’s Time for Lunch campaign advocating for healthier food in schools. This past week featured a series of Time for Lunch events, like nationwide Eat-Ins on Labor Day. On the heels of these events, Automotive High School (view site) in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, hosted a slowfood potluck last weekend to celebrate the cause of healthy, sustainable food in schools and communities.

 

A determined group braving the elements on Saturday for a slow food potluck in Williamsburg.

Dishes were prepared by students during class using produce grown in the Auto High Victory Garden, and guests were invited to bring a side dish made from local, seasonal ingredients. The rainy Saturday afternoon discouraged attendance, but a small group of teachers, students, and Slow Food members were there nonetheless to share delicious homemade food, like a walnut pesto pasta salad, cold tomato soup, arugula and goat cheese salad with a tomato, strawberry, and lemon dressing, or freshly baked oatmeal raisin cookies.

Slow Food NYC has provided funding for Auto High’s garden and cooking activities as a part of their Harvest Time Program, which works with schools to promote good food education. Teachers mentioned some of the obstacles they face, like budget cuts and student disinterest, but it was clear that this small band of teacher-gardeners has had an impact educating students on how food is produced. The event reinforced that sometimes change starts small. For example, one student who attended had tasted goat cheese in class the previous day for the first time.

Maybe the days of reheated chicken patties aren’t so far away from coming to end.

Click here for more pictures from the Pot Luck lunch >>

SEARCH: New Season, New Ingredients

Left, Eleven Madison Park’s Seared Atlantic Halibut with Sweet Corn, Summer Radishes & Purslane. Right, Sautéed Cod with Brussels Sprouts & Butternut Squash.

Labor Day means that summer is officially coming to an end. For most of us this simply means it will be getting cool again, but for chefs the fall means the changing of the guard, ingredient-wise at least. Goodbye, squash blossoms and sweet corn. Hello, apples, pumpkin and Brussels sprouts.

If you’re interested in keeping current about what to expect at the local Greenmarket, use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar. If you’re going to leave cooking to the professionals, you could choose a stalwart like Per Se, Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Jean Georges, or even Eleven Madison Park. Or you can use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Very Advanced Search to search by GreenMarket and cater a list of restaurants specific to your occasion.

Say you’re looking for a quality spot with seasonal food that’s great for a date— narrow your search by choosing A- or above from the drop-down menu, and checking off GreenMarket and Date Place in the By Cuisine and By Occasion sections. You will be provided with an AlwaysHungryNY.com approved list of appropriate restaurants.

Whatever occasion, the best way to embrace the onset of fall is with its fabulous flavors. Forget committing fashion faux pas, don’t get caught eating out of season. After all, fresh food is the best food.

HungryHamptons: Briermere Farms (Riverhead, Long Island)

Clockwise, from top left: Briermere Farms’ pie menu, Pies, more pies and cookies.

Restaurant: Briermere Farms (view site)
Address: 4414 Sound Ave., Riverhead, NY 11901 (view map)
Grade: A-
Recommended Dishes: Fresh Blueberry Cream and Apple Crisp Pies
Hours: Mon-Thu 9am-5pm; Fri-Sun 9am-5:30pm

 
 

Everyone has their favorite Hamptons farm stand, but when it comes to fruit pies, everyone’s favorite is Briermere Farms. It looks like any other on-site greenmarket, but the outdoor display of tomatoes, sweet plums and snap peas isn’t why pie lovers rush to Riverhead. Rather, it’s the tiny indoor bakery that brims with homemade fruit pies, cakes, cookies and freshly baked breads. The seasonal pie list features classic fillings like Peach, Cherry and Pumpkin (come fall), and of course, the fruit is all from their own farm. Briermere also creates clever combinations like Blackberry Apple and features less frequently used fruits like Boysenberry and Apricot.

 

Briermere Farms’ fresh Blueberry Cream Pie, $28.

Briermere is particularly well known for its cream pies, which can be topped with either apricot-glazed fresh fruit or cooked fruit pie filling. The bottom is lined with a buttery crust and a delectable, smooth whipped cream cheese base. On the weekends, specials like Lemon Meringue, Coconut Cream and Chocolate Cream rarely last until the 5:30pm closing time. The fresh Blueberry Cream Pie is out of this world. The mountainous arrangement of sweet sapphires is impressive enough, but it’s the simple trifecta of flaky crust, fruit and billowy cream that is simultaneously rich and refreshing.

 

Fresh Blueberry Cream and Apple Crisp Pies.

Briermere’s other standout is the Apple Crisp Pie ($16), the only pie given the “crisp” treatment, an atypical one at that. It’s covered completely with a crust onto which the crisp is adhered. The result is an exorbitantly crunchy coating. Once you break through the covering, the freshly caramelized apples spiced with brown sugar and cinnamon ooze out decadently. It’s legitimately one of the best apple pies ever, making Briermere a mandatory stop on any summer trek out east.

<< Back to Thought For Food