AlwaysInformed: Poseidon Bakery

GutterGourmet — December 07, 2009

An array of pastries from Poseidon Bakery. Bottom right, co-owner Lili Fable.

Poseidon may be the Lord of the Sea, but in Hell’s’ Kitchen, Poseidon Bakery has been the lord of Greek pastries since 1923. The best start to a meal here is to begin with a vegetable-the Spanakopita. It’s the Platonic ideal of the pastry in a flaky phyllo crust that shatters as you bite into it.

Click Here for Pictures of the Pastries at Poseidon Bakery >>

Featured Restaurant: Taverna Kyclades

AlwaysHungry — November 11, 2009

Small Peasant Salad with Tomatoes, Kalamata Olives, Onions, Cucumber and Feta.

When it comes to authentic Greek cuisine, we all know Astoria is the place to go. Not only does the neighborhood boast a Greek population, and awesome Greek cuisine, but these restaurants are also easy on the wallet. The AlwaysHungryNY.com favorite has for a long time been Elias Corner, but Taverna Kyclades is also a delicious experience that’s worth the trip.

Read the Full Review of Taverna Kyclades here.

Featured Restaurant: Anthos

The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009

Whole Grilled Loup de Mer with a Medley of Market Vegetables.

At Anthos, Michael Psilakis’ Greek cuisine is often dominated by French execution. Even the Greek Salad isn’t inherently Greek, rather it’s riddled with “farmhouse vegetables,” such as peas, asparagus, broccoli and beets. So if you’re looking for a simply grilled fish you’re better off at Milos or Taverna Kyclades. A Whole Grilled Loup de Mer (shown above) at Anthos may sound like a light, simple order, yet the segmented fish, deboned from within, is stuffed with herb lemon butter and breadcrumbs. The filling infuses the fish with herbs and provides a gritty texture to compliment its soft flesh.

Sure, Anthos’ kitchen may be the exception to the chef’s mantra, “Butter doesn’t belong in a Mediterranean kitchen,” but that’s not to say that some of the dishes aren’t remarkably light. Take for example, the Day Boat Cod over which a thin, but robustly flavored smoked tomato broth is poured tableside. Or the slightly seared Yellowfin Tuna set atop yogurt vinaigrette. Still, the Smoked Octopus is pan-fried for unparalleled crispness. Psilakis’ heralded Ricotta Dumplings are given a creamy finish. Adorned with sweet jumbo lump crab, grilled leeks and wilted spinach, a salty touch of feta subdues the richness. Desserts follow suit, with Greek sweets like halva and pasteli being used to accompany a sinful Chocolate Torta rather than served by their lonesome.

Traditional Greek cuisine has it merits, but Anthos delivers a more sophisticated dining experience, with artistic, thoughtfully composed dishes that you won’t find anywhere else. The prices are definitely high, but an amuse, complimentary assortment of mezzes, petit fours and the always awesome cotton candy make the meal worth every penny. It’s definitely not your average Greek restaurant, but that is why Anthos is so remarkably above average.

See new pictures of food at Anthos on its restaurant page here.

AlwaysPartying: International Cuisine Day

Arthur Bovino — October 02, 2009

Epicurious.com Editor-in-Chief, Tanya Wenman Steel’s, Peachy Keen Chicken and Edamame Succotash.

Epicurious Entertains NYC’s International Cuisine Day featured four demonstrations, two by notable chefs, Michael Psilakis and Marcus Samuelsson. Epicurious.com’s Editor-in-Chief, Tanya Wenman Steel (right, with two audience volunteers) filled in for L.A-based chef David Myers by preparing two recipes from her cookbook. There was also a beer cocktail demonstration by Epicurious.com’s Executive Editor (and in-house drinks specialist), James Oliver Cury. A few notes and observations from the event follow.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysInvestigating:  Duck, Duck, Gyro

The Gluttoness — September 22, 2009

For all intensive purposes, gyros and shawarmas are one in the same. When you’re starving on Lexington, eating the damn thing is more important than dissecting the distinctions, but they are worth noting.

Gyros are from Greece. The name refers to the sandwich itself, which is typically made of garlic and oregano-spiced ground pork (although it can be combined with lamb, chicken or beef), which is compressed into forcemeat before being spit-roasted. In Arabic speaking countries, shawarma refers to the meat itself, usually sliced lamb, seasoned with allspice and assembled in layers on a spit before being roasted. Ultimately, both preparations are sliced off the spit and served in a pita. While gyros are usually dressed with Greek yogurt or tzaziki, and shawarma typically takes tahini or tarator (tahini with garlic), neither is customarily stuffed with duck, yet some New York chefs are opting to put a gourmet spin on these street food favorites.

ilili’s Duck Shawarma with Fig, Green Onion and Garlic Whip.

ilili’s Duck Shawarma ($14.00) has the appearance of your typical Middle Eastern shawarma, except the fancy holder allows the wrapped pita cone duo to be delivered upright. Thin pita is grilled for a smoky exterior and the delicate crispness of the wrapping gives way to a generous portion of sliced duck. While some bits are plagued by fat and gristle, most of the medium meat had a gamey richness. In typical fashion, the shawarma’s sauce was characterized by garlic. The intensely seasoned garlic whip had the caramelized hue of roasted cloves. The creamy sauce controlled the flavor profile, its heaviness given relief by a plentitude of pungent green onions and a sweet speckling of figs.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Macaroni and Cheese EuroTrip

The Gluttoness — August 31, 2009

Mac and Cheese is a classic American comfort food. At its most elemental it requires two ingredients, the ones in the name. You can keep it simple and traditional with elbow macaroni and yellow cheddar, or guss it up with a multitude of cheeses, fancy-shaped pasta, milk or heavy cream to ease the melting process, and an innumerable amount of add-ins: bacon, mushrooms and lobster for starters. Even more luxurious renditions use the French mother sauce, béchamel, a heavenly roux-based white sauce into which cheese melts seamlessly. But other European cuisines have left their marks too.

Klee Brasserie’s Macaroni & Cheese with Spätzle Pasta and Four Cheeses, $15.00.

One of Klee Brasserie’s (restaurant page) self-proclaimed specialties is the Chef’s ‘Macaroni & Cheese,’ spätzel pasta with four cheeses ($15.00). While lacking onion, the dish is similar to Käsespätzle, a German preparation of spätzle (egg dumplings common to Eastern European cuisine) baked with grated cheese. Swiss Emmenthaler is combined with yellow cheddar, gruyère and parmesan. The salty punch of the semi-melted specks of sharp cheddar accentuated the prevalent taste of the Emmenthaler. The spätzle was soft and pillowy, each lusciously lacquered in the creamy, pepper-heavy sauce. As it cooled, this indulgent dish became more enjoyable because the skinny, gnocchi-like spätzle became firm for a more substantial chew. A similar dish, Kas Spatzle, can also be found at Radegast Hall & Biergarten with Hunter’s Bacon and Brown Cabbage.

Kefi’s Macaroni with Spinach and Béchamel, $9.95.

Kefi’s (restaurant page) Macaroni with Spinach and Béchamel ($9.95) puts a Mediterranean spin on Macaroni and Cheese. It may appear thick and creamy but the dish’s consistency was surprisingly loose (and could have spent a few more minutes in the salamander). While its soupiness was visually questionable, the subtle flavors made for a delightful departure from tradition. The toothsome, al dente elbows were awash in a creamy sea of wilted emerald greens. The béchamel was brightened by the trifecta of tangy, Greek cheese: manouri, feta and graviera. The mild manouri was enriched by the soft feta’s saltiness while the grated graviera added a nutty sweetness. The silken sauce was still light, allowing the dish to be rich in flavor but not heavy on the palate.

AlwaysLearning: The Origins of Lasagna

The Gluttoness & The Hungry Goat — August 04, 2009

Pastitsio, Pylos’ terrine of baked pasta layered with aromatic meat sauce and béchamel, $17.

Today is National Lasagna Day, and while most would assume that lasagna is Italian through and through, it’s said that the true origins of the moniker can be traced back to Italy’s Mediterranean neighbor, Greece. Translated, the Greek word, λάσανον (lasanon), means “chamber pot.” The Italians, particularly the Romans, adopted the word, changing it to lasanum, which was used to refer to the dish in which lasagna was made. Eventually, the term came to describe the layered pasta itself.

The Greeks developed their own variation of lasagna, and surprisingly, it took its name from the Italian word, pasticcio, also known as ‘lasagna al forno.’

What it is: Pastitsio, or Greek lasagna, is a casserole made with tubular pasta, a ragù and a creamy, Parmesan béchamel sauce. What truly distinguishes the flavor of Greek pastitsio from Italian lasagna is the heavy spice blend (nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice) and the use of meat—the usual combination of beef, veal and pork is often enhanced with, or substituted with ground lamb.

Where to get it in New York: For a unique celebration of today’s food holiday, we set out to find some of the best Greek lasagna in New York City. It lead us to Pylos in the East Village. Pylos’ welcoming, homey atmosphere is the ideal setting in which to enjoy this rustic dish.

The powerful aroma of cinnamon and nutmeg wafted up the moment the plate was set on the table, and continued to make its presence felt in the hearty meat sauce. Unlike classic Italian lasagna, which features an even distribution of sauce and cheese between layers of pasta sheets, the presentation of pastitsio looks more like a mold of macaroni bolognese blanketed with a generous helping of creamy béchamel. The buttery, cheesy sauce had the texture of extra-smooth mashed potatoes and the loosely packed noodles had a difficult time holding up under the zealous attack of eager eaters.

HungryChefs: Chefs Love Lupa, Mixed on Hot Dogs

The Gluttoness — June 11, 2009

Roasted Pork Shoulder “Gyro” with Pickled Cucumber & Yogurt from Anthos at Street & Savory

Some of the country’s best chefs attended Citymeals-on-Wheels’ Street & Savory Tasting Event. We’ve already brought you pictures of all the dishes and rounded up our favorite plates, but we were also able to speak with the chefs.

Our questions were obvious: What are you AlwaysHungry for? Which New York City restaurant do you crave? And in keeping with the night’s theme: what would you serve if you opened your own street cart? Some chefs took the easy route, promoting dishes they had prepared for the evening, others were quite creative with their responses.

Click Here to read all the chefs' answers >>

AlwaysQuestioning: Wine Enthusiast’s Sybil Strum

The Gluttoness — June 09, 2009

Ten years after its first event at the Whitney, Wine Enthusiast’s Toast of the Town Grand Tasting is being held on June 15th at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center. Since its first year the event has spread to San Francisco, Atlanta, and Chicago. There are plans for it to be held in Dallas next year.

We recently spoke with Wine Enthusiast’s CEO, Sybil Strum, who founded the business with her husband. She shared some details with us about life as an oenophile, her favorite food and wine pairings, and of course, what she’s AlwaysHungry for.

Read the full interview with Wine Enthusiast's Sybil Strum >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Bar Artisanal’s Lamb Burger

The Gluttoness — May 15, 2009

Having read the good news and bad news about Bar Artisanal, one thing was clear: the Lamb Burger had to be eaten immediately. It’s made with ground lamb shoulder from DeBragga and Spitler that is mixed with Merguez. The patty is stuffed with fresh goat cheese with butter and herbs, and served on a Picholine Olive Roll with a side of Niçoise Tapenade. It’s a delicious explosion of Greek flavors.

Sliced in half, the hamburger revealed a sexy, drool-inducing cross-section. The meat was impeccably seasoned and the olive flecked bread quickly absorbed the creamy, melted goat cheese and lamb jus. The burger oozed sensual juices from its center. A heavy slathering of tapenade on each bite furthered its decadence, dramatically reinforcing each flavor. The accompanying Chickpea Frites arranged in a square stack were also fantastic. Their crisp semolina exteriors had a delicate, yet gritty texture that encased a dense purée of chickpeas, which tasted like warm, concentrated hummus.

Our good news/bad news? The fries are offered alone as an amuse bouche, but disappear too quickly.

AlwaysLearning: Galaktoboureko

April 02, 2009

What It Is: A custard-filled phyllo dessert. The pudding-like, milk custard is thickened with semolina (Greek simigthali) and/or cornstarch. Immediately after baking, galaktoboureko is soaked in a light lemony, or orange, syrup. The phyllo is layered above and below the custard and baked in a pie pan and then sliced (pictured) or rolled into individual servings. While the syrup can be served on the side instead of spooned overtop (cop-out), it’s best to serve the dish once it has completely cooled and the syrup has been fully absorbed by the pastry.

Where It’s From: A traditional Greek sweet. The name, which translates to “milk pie,” originates from the Greek words galact (milk) and bourkek (pie). As you’ll see below, just like the spelling of the word phyllo (or filo), the spelling of galaktoboureko seems to be up to interpretation.

Where You Can Get It:

Anthos: Galaktoboureko: Semolina Pudding with Ginger Ice Cream, Concord Grape Sorbet & Phyllo, $10.00

Milos: Galaktoboureko: Custard with Layered Phyllo Crust, $10.00

Molyvos: Galaktoboureko: Semolina Custard wrapped in Phyllo & bathed in Citrus Syrup, $9.00

Thalassa: Galaktobouriko: Citrus-Custard wrapped in Filo & drizzled with Orange Honey, $6.95

Avra Estiatorio: Galactobourico: Semolina Custard wrapped in Filo with Orange & Lemon Zest Syrup

Pylos: Christos’ Towering Galaktobourekakia: Buttery Phyllo Triangles filled with Greek Custard & drizzled with Cinnamon & Greek Mountain Honey, $6.00

Philoxenia: Galakrobourko: Fresh Custard Cream wrapped in Phyllo with Light Syrup, $5.50

Menus Made Simple: Anthos

February 08, 2009

Kakavia: “Greek Bouillabaisse”; fisherman’s stew made from fresh white fish and seafood; similar in style and conception to French bouillabaisse
Seafood Kakavia with Saffron Consomme, Red Crab, Razor Clam, Anchovy & Crouton

Kefalotori Cheese: “Greek Parmesan”; well-flavored sheep’s milk creates a hard cheese much like Italian Parmesan; it has a mild, salty flavor and is marked by scattered little holes
Macaronia: Greek Pasta with Braised Endive, Arugula & Kefalotori Cheese

Pastitsio: “Greek Lasagna”; baked dish consisting of layers of tubular pasta (bucatini or ziti is best) bound with egg and/or cheese, and ground meat flavored with tomato, cinnamon, nutmeg, and/or all-spice, topped with a creamy Bechamel or Mornay sauce
Pastitsio with Feta Macaroni, Garlic Bechamel & Veal Croquette

Spetsofai: “Sausage and Peppers”; a stew that is a typical country dish from Mount Pelion, Greece, where it’s popular in “hanis” or taverns that serve hearty, long-simmered dishes
Grilled Swordfish Spetsofai with Greek Sausage, Pepper & Chanterelle Mushroom

Hilopita: Grecian flat, wide egg noodle
Hilopita: Egg Noodle with Prawn, Grape & Pepperoncini

Kaseri Cheese: “Greek Mozzarella”; buttery soft cheese made from 80% goat’s milk that ranges from mild to sharp, always with an underlying sweetness
Autumn Salad with Cabbage, Kaseri Cheese Tuile, Pear & Radish

Click Here to Decipher More Menu Items >>

AlwaysLearning: Fish-tionary

AHNY Squad — January 31, 2009

Eliminate many of the annoying questions you ask when you order fish! Language barriers have not made it easy to navigate the fish offerings throughout this city and this is our attempt to help. Take a look, you may learn something…

• In English-speaking countries, Sablefish is referred to as Butterfish or Black Cod
• Mediterranean Sea Bass (above) is Lavrake in Greek, Branzino or Spigola in Italian, and Loup de Mer in French
• John Dory is known as Saint Pierre in French, Hristopsaro in Greek, and Pesce San Pietro in Italian
• Sea Bream is called Dourade in French, Orata in Italian, and Tsipoura in Greek

If you’re interested in learning more about how different types of fish are translated in other languages, check out this database on the Scientific & Foreign Names of Fish & Shellfish.

The Round-Up: Marathon Route Dining

October 30, 2008

Just because participants in Sunday’s NYC Marathon have to endure a grueling 26.2 mile race, doesn’t mean you have to suffer starving on the sidelines. The New York Times has compiled a list of 26.2 noteworthy places (one is a truck) along the marathon route where hungry supporters can stop in and get a delicious bite. With cuisines ranging from classic American to Vietnamese, Polish, Honduran, and Senegalese, the eateries on this list are as international and eclectic as the runners competing in the race. (10/29)

Bay Street Lunchonette American Diner (Staten Island)

Plaka Taverna Greek (Bay Ridge)

Tanoreen Palestinian (Bay Ridge)

Thanh Dai Vietnamese (Sunset Park)

Yun Nan Flavour Snack Chinese (Sunset Park)

El Tesoro Ecuadorean (Sunset Park)

Milan’s Slovakian (Greenwood Heights)

Chip Shop British (Park Slope)

Sheep Station Australian (Park Slope)

Madiba South African (Park Slope)

Click Here for the Full List >>