First Look: Bistro Vendôme

Arthur Bovino — February 19, 2010

Clockwise from top: Australian Rack of Lamb with Potato Gratin and Rosemary Jus, Mussels Provençale, Exterior.

In a city plush with new menus touting the trendiest ingredients and applications, the opening of a French bistro that serves classics like moules frites and escargots could be easily overlooked. After being invited to Pascal Petiteau’s newly-opened Bistro Vendôme, we can report that that would be a shame. Bistro Vendôme smells of new restaurant. The wood floors shine and the paint is fresh, but it’s filled with warm lighting and once you sit down, the sop-it-up scent of butter and garlic.

More About Bistro Vendôme with the Full Slideshow >>

Featured Restaurant: Gascogne

GutterGourmet — January 28, 2010

Clockwise from top: Gascogne’s Cassoulet, Sautéed Snails in Phillo Dough, Crèpes Suzette, Foie Gras Dégustation.

An evening or lunch at Gascogne transports you to southwestern France, the land of charcuterie, foie gras, duck, cassoulet and Armagnac. I recently had the pleasure of co-hosting a dinner there with a fellow cassoulet-lover, where the whitewashed walls and candlelit tables looking out onto the multi-level garden was the perfect setting.

We started with the Aumôniéres d’Escargots—little beggar’s purses of phillo dough twisted around snails in a garlic beurre blanc sauce, and sealed with a chive. It reminded me of Wayne Nish’s lobster, crème fraîche and caviar beggar’s purses made famous at the now, sadly closed, March. Next up was an incredible degustation of foie gras terrines, black truffle, prune, and Armagnac and apricot-flavored. The cold terrine of rabbit, truffle and sauternes foreshadowed my incredible leg of rabbit served with black and green olives, and buttery noodles.

The rack of lamb (eight chops!) was so ginormous that it looked more like a rack of dinosaur, and it was cooked exactly to specification. The filet mignon was topped with, what else, more foie gras, and the cassoulet was picture perfect in its clay casserole vessel, the beans not quite covering the duck confit and garlic sausage.

For dessert, the Mélodie de Chocolats (black and white layered chocolate mousse), Profiteroles with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce, and the dramatic finish: Crêpes Suzette doused in flaming Grand Marnier and covered in orange zest. Stuffed, drunk and happy we more than slightly overweight group of men walked out into the cold night air feeling more like Gascony’s native sons- the original musketeers. “All for one and one for all!”

AlwaysInvestigating: Lamazou

GutterGourmet — December 02, 2009

Top, Lamazou’s “Smart Duck” Sandwich. Bottom left, “The Butterfly” Sandwich. Right, Lamazou Specialty Sandwich.

The area between 21st and 33rd Streets and Lexington and 3rd Avenues is home to three of my favorite sandwich shops: Defonte’s, Baoguette and, of course, the new 2nd Avenue Deli (now on Toidy Toid and Toid as Bugs Bunny would say). So while the Italians are credited with the hero, the Vietnamese with the banh mi and the Jews with the overstuffed deli sandwich, I’d like to recommend a fourth place in the same zone which may rival them all.

Click Here for More About the Sandwiches at Lamazou >>

Featured Brunch: Daniel Boulud Does Brunch

The Gluttoness — November 06, 2009

Summer Fruit Parfait with Yogurt, Granola and Berries, $9.00.

Hot off the heels of its two-star review from The Times, DBGB Kitchen & Bar (view) has experienced the expected surge in business, and not only during prime dinner hours. Turns out it’s not all about the sausages, especially during brunch, when DBGB serves sweeter delights like Belgian Waffles topped with chocolate or berries and whipped cream, and a Fruit Parfait featuring figs, yogurt and granola. You can still order a juicy Yankee Burger, and those sausages (nine varieties) well, they get even better— any of them can be topped with two eggs, any style for $6.00.

Breakfast favorites abound, whether you’re looking for Brioche French Toast, a simple stuffed omelette in the velvety, uncolored French style, or poached eggs “en cocotte” with caramelized onions, mushrooms and bubbly Gruyère. Best of all is the classic Croque Madame, topped with an oozing sunny-side egg, and the super crisp, triangular hash brown cakes served in a miniature iron skillet.

For little kids, the horribly hungover and serious sweet tooths alike, nothing will end your bountiful brunch on a better note than DBGB Kitchen & Bar’s spectacular sundaes. There’s a Cassis Beer Yogurt with Speculoos Cookie, Rainbow Meringue, and Black Currant Compote too. But for the sake of the season you might consider the Caramel-Cider (with braised apple, marshmallow and oatmeal crumble). Of course, it’s impossible to go wrong with the indulgent chocolate chip cookie and brownie-flecked Coffee Mocha. Looks like Daniel Boulud has spent some quality time with a pint of Half Baked.

Haven’t we all.

SEARCH: French Onion Soup

November 02, 2009

Bar Americain’s Vidalia Onion Soup w/Parker House Crouton & Blistered Vermont Cheddar, $11.00.

Sure, soup is the perfect meal on a cold night, but some soups are better than others. Case in point: French Onion Soup. Any soup smothered in bubbling, burnt cheese is going to have an advantage over an unadorned bowl. However, not all French Onion Soups are executed equally, and no amount of melted cheese is going to save a poorly seasoned soup.

French Onion Soup is actually relatively easy to make—-sweet onions are slowly caramelized then simmered in beef stock. The purpose of the crouton, aside from being juicy and soaked with deliciousness, is to help the cheesy overlay stay afloat. As for cheese, Gruyère is the most commonly used, although Fontina, Cheddar, Parmesan, or a combination of them, are all valid choices. As long as the cheese is properly blistered and gooey it will most likely taste great.

Bar Americain’s (view) rich Vidalia Onion Soup (above) is one of Manhattan’s best. The thick broth is full of sweet, soft onions, and the coating of Vermont white Cheddar is sharp and distinctive.

But Bobby Flay isn’t the only chef serving a fantastic crock of French Onion Soup in Manhattan. By typing “French Onion Soup” in quotes into the search field of AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Advanced Search Engine we compiled a list of some of our other favorites.

Featured Dish: SHO’s Three Day Short Rib

The Gluttoness — October 27, 2009

Three Day Short Rib with Hazelnut and Cranberry Crust and Parsnip Purée. Left, short rib, about to be plated. Right, Shaun Hergatt at work.

It has been a while since I checked in with Chef Shaun Hergatt. Since I first waxed-poetic about SHO (view) it gained a star in the 2010 Michelin guide, was cited in Esquire’s 20 Best New Restaurants of 2009 and received an unofficial 29 rating in the 2010 Zagat guide. High time to visit the chef.

Click Here for More About Shaun Hergatt's Three Day Short Rib >>

AlwaysLearning: Old School Lobster Dishes

The Gluttoness — October 22, 2009

Left, Hotel Griffou’s Lobster Thermidor Fondue. Right, Delmonico’s Lobster Newberg.

Even just steamed and dipped in butter, lobster is supremely delicious. But some classic preparations, often overlooked, really up the ante. And with the decadence of these dishes, comes the rich history of their beginnings. Here’s a look at two old school lobster dishes at Hotel Griffou and Delmonico’s.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysTraveling: Le Bec-Fin (Philadelphia, PA)

The Gluttoness — October 08, 2009

Exterior and interior of Le Bec-Fin on Walnut Street across from “Georges Perrier Place.”

Restaurant: Le Bec-Fin (view)
Address: 1523 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, PA (map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: B+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Spanish Octopus, Chilled Maine Lobster Salad, Escargots, Veal Chop, Diver Sea Scallops, Chocolate Banana Tart, Grand Marnier Soufflé

It was a long twenty-five years before I got to enjoy my first meal at Georges Perrier’s famed five-star eatery. Growing up in Philadelphia, there was no finer dining destination. Yet the aura of stuffiness and pretension shrouded behind the wrought iron awning turned out to be merely a figment of fanciful imagination. Of course Le Bec-Fin is impeccably high class, but along with the dramatic chandeliers and gilded crown molding awaits a truly comfortable, effortless, dare-I-say, “fun” dining experience.

Japanese Black Bass with Baby Vegetables “a la Grecque,” Kohlrabi and Yellow Tomato Consommé.

I expected fancy French food, like you’d find at Per Se or Daniel, where the chef de cuisine, Nicholas Elmi honed his craft before moving to Philadelphia, but the plating was as relaxed as the warm, ambient environment. Decorative adornments, like a messy stroke of red onion aigre-doux aside Spanish Octopus, weren’t exemplary of French finesse. Yet the dish, with its chorizo and charred melon accompaniments was one of the meal’s standouts. The surprising departure from that which is inherently French was balanced by the “Le Bec-Fin Classics” portion of the menu, which features traditional items like Escargots poached in hazelnut garlic butter, Sautéed Foie Gras and the Gallette de Crabe, one of the dishes you could have eaten at Le Bec-Fin during its early heyday.

Click Here for Le Bec-Fin's Dish-by-Dish >>

Featured Restaurant: Anthos

The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009

Whole Grilled Loup de Mer with a Medley of Market Vegetables.

At Anthos, Michael Psilakis’ Greek cuisine is often dominated by French execution. Even the Greek Salad isn’t inherently Greek, rather it’s riddled with “farmhouse vegetables,” such as peas, asparagus, broccoli and beets. So if you’re looking for a simply grilled fish you’re better off at Milos or Taverna Kyclades. A Whole Grilled Loup de Mer (shown above) at Anthos may sound like a light, simple order, yet the segmented fish, deboned from within, is stuffed with herb lemon butter and breadcrumbs. The filling infuses the fish with herbs and provides a gritty texture to compliment its soft flesh.

Sure, Anthos’ kitchen may be the exception to the chef’s mantra, “Butter doesn’t belong in a Mediterranean kitchen,” but that’s not to say that some of the dishes aren’t remarkably light. Take for example, the Day Boat Cod over which a thin, but robustly flavored smoked tomato broth is poured tableside. Or the slightly seared Yellowfin Tuna set atop yogurt vinaigrette. Still, the Smoked Octopus is pan-fried for unparalleled crispness. Psilakis’ heralded Ricotta Dumplings are given a creamy finish. Adorned with sweet jumbo lump crab, grilled leeks and wilted spinach, a salty touch of feta subdues the richness. Desserts follow suit, with Greek sweets like halva and pasteli being used to accompany a sinful Chocolate Torta rather than served by their lonesome.

Traditional Greek cuisine has it merits, but Anthos delivers a more sophisticated dining experience, with artistic, thoughtfully composed dishes that you won’t find anywhere else. The prices are definitely high, but an amuse, complimentary assortment of mezzes, petit fours and the always awesome cotton candy make the meal worth every penny. It’s definitely not your average Greek restaurant, but that is why Anthos is so remarkably above average.

See new pictures of food at Anthos on its restaurant page here.

Featured Dessert: DBGB’s Baked Alaska for Two

The Gluttoness — September 11, 2009

DBGB’s Omelette Norvegienne (Baked Alaska for two, $18) w/Raspberry Sorbet, Vanilla and Verbena Ice creams, Meringue and Chartreuse.

For dessert-lovers a double-serving of sweets can be a must-order whether or not you’re dining solo or à deux. DBGB Kitchen & Bar’s (restaurant page) super-sized treatment of their Baked Alaska fulfills both possibilities. This classic dessert usually features pastry-wrapped ice cream, topped with meringue, then broiled or torched until the creamy insulator is ablaze with a bubbling, brown char. In addition to the American moniker (said to have originated in 1876 with Chef Charles Ranhofer of Delmonico’s to honor Alaska’s acquisition), at DBGB the dish is given a French appellation, Omelette Norvégienne.

DBGB’s open-ended Baked Alaska for Two displays a spumoni-like trifecta of flavors. The restaurant’s pastry chef, Myriam “Mimi” Eberhardt broke down this “pretty traditional dessert.” First she portions it for two so the ice cream doesn’t melt. The trio of ice creams are frozen solid then wrapped in a thin layer of almond cake. This spongy layer is covered with French meringue which is pre-charred then flambéed tableside with Chartreuse (a green French liqueur made using 130 herbs under the supervision of Carthusian monks). The cake quickly becomes infused with its surrounding flavors, particularly the remnant Chartreuse and melting meringue, which drools to the bottom once the confection is set aflame.

Chef Eberhardt’s selection of homemade ice creams is based on the season so the dessert’s flavors will change with nature’s bounty. Currently a tart, ruby red raspberry sorbet acts as the fruity gem in the center of vanilla bean and lemon verbana ice creams. As Mimi explained, “the freshness of the sorbet balances the creaminess of the ice cream.” As superb as this current combination is, we’re eager to taste what flavors fall has in store.

AlwaysLearning: Pan Bagnat

Michelle Kiefer — July 30, 2009

Pan Bagnat, a different way to eat a classic dish, Salade Niçoise, in sandwich form.

What it is: Pan Bagnat is a sandwich made with raw vegetables, tuna, and olive oil. Though there are several variations, the official recipe (see site) calls for bread filled with: tomatoes, green peppers, spring onions, fava beans, black olives, tuna, olive oil, basil, salt and pepper. Other acceptable ingredients are hard-boiled eggs, artichoke hearts, radish, anchovies, onions, and garlic. Right, Pan Bagnat from Bistro Cassis.

Where it’s from: Nice, France. Along with Ratatouille and Salade Niçoise, Pan Bagnat is a notable character in Niçoise cuisine. It means “wet” or “bathed” bread.

An association called La Commune Libre du Pan Bagnat was created “for the defense and promotion of Pan Bagnat.” For a mere $45, you can even become a Citizen of Honor and receive a sticker, certificate, and card that confirm your support of this culinary tradition. As if that isn’t enough evidence of an ardent love for this sandwich, Niçoise shopkeepers created a giant Pan Bagnat as part of a summer food celebration last August. This 40 meter-long (131 feet) sandwich required the use of 400 tomatoes.

Where to get it in New York: Bistro Cassis (restaurant page), and Nice Matin both serve a rendition of Pan Bagnat on their lunch and brunch menus. Using these recipes, the right vegetables and some crusty bread, you could also try your hand at making Pan Bagnat. Vegetarians who consider omitting the tuna should be warned that they are considered a scourge by the mayor of Nice. He was quoted as saying that the Pan Bagnat “has too often suffered attacks that have distorted it to make a type of vegetarian sandwich.”

AlwaysPartying: Scharffen Berger Chocolate Luncheon

Michelle Kiefer — July 28, 2009

from left: Chef Jacques Pépin; Sharffen Berger Chocolates; John Scharffenberger

Julia Child once called Scharffen Berger, “America’s finest dark chocolate,” recalled John Sharffenberger during yesterday’s Scharffen Berger Chocolate Luncheon at the French Culinary Institute in SoHo, an event honoring the soon-to-be-released film, Julie & Julia (Aug. 7).

Guests were treated to a clip of the title character, Julie Powell (Amy Adams) being inspired by Scharffen Berger chocolate, a chocolate-tasting led by John Scharffenberger, cooking demos by Chef Jacques Pépin, and a three-course lunch consisting of chocolate-inspired dishes. The tasting involved three dark chocolate varieties (82%, 70%, 60% cacao) and one milk chocolate . Unlike single-origin chocolates, Sharffen Berger sources cacao blends from multiple origins that change each year depending on which beans are deemed “extraordinary” at the time. Mr. Sharffenberger described this blend as a “symphony” in contrast to the “beauty of a flute solo.” It’s an approach that corresponds with his description of “flavor as a time lapse.”

Lunch was prepared by Chef Jacques Pépin with help from FCI students. The appetizer, Pâté de Faux Gràs a Ma Façon, featured a buttery crostini spread with rich, savory chicken foie gras, sprinkled with cacao nibs and chopped pistachio. The entrée was a perfectly tender Tri Tip Roast with Cacao Nib Rub. Some audience members were the lucky beneficiares of one of Chef Pépin’s cooking demonstrations: crepes with grated chocolate. The grand finale was a dessert trio: Warm Chocolate Cake with Apricot-Cognac Sauce, Chocolate Raspberry Gratin, and Chocolate Rochers with Hazelnut and Cornflakes. Each dish emphasized the simplicity of its ingredients.

Sharing one of his favorite quotes, Pépin asked, “What is patriotism but the tastes of the dishes you had as a child?” This link between food and memory was present throughout the afternoon as he shared memories of his family as they related to the chocolate dishes he prepared, as well as his favorite anecdotes of Julia Child, the woman who made French cooking accessible to the masses.

Pâté de Faux Gras a Ma Façon

Tri Tip Roast with Cacao Nib Rub

Warm Chocolate Cake w/Apricot-Cognac Sauce; Chocolate Rasperry Gratin; Chocolate Rochers w/Hazelnut & Cornflakes

AlwaysInformed: Shanks for the Memories

GutterGourmet — July 24, 2009

Cabrito’s A Pata de Cerdo

There is no question that Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal is one of North America’s greatest restaurants. As its name indicates, there are a lot of piggy amputees limping around Canada who have sacrificed limbs for our dining pleasure. The chef/owner of that restaurant is a lunatic named Martin Picard whose pig, duck and foie gras induced creations are gorgeously illustrated in the Au pied de Cochon Album Cookbook, which I highly recommend (spring for the hardcover with DVD so you don’t miss Picard and his cronies dining naked at the restaurant and their drunken attempts to reassemble an entire pig by placing the preparations of its various anatomical parts on a feasting table).

David Schuttenberg, the chef at Cabrito (formerly of Fatty Crab, which also owns Cabrito), admitted to me that he has never been to Au Pied de Cochon, but he was so inspired by the album’s recipe for Foie Gras Stuffed Pigs’ Feet that he had to adapt it to Mexican cuisine.

The original recipe is an involved process. First, the shank portion of an entire trotter is partially deboned with a hacksaw. The shank meat is browned with mushrooms and onions to make a stuffing, which is packed into the deboned shank and threaded shut. The whole trotter is then slowly cooked sous vide over several hours. Next, the cooked, stuffed trotter is brushed with egg and mustard, coated with breadcrumbs and cooked in a buttered skillet. Picard then throws layers of seared foie gras on top (as he tends to do with everything) for effect.

Cabrito’s plated “A Pata de Cerdo” and cross-section

Schuttenberg said he was faithful to Picard’s recipe and preparation (down to the hacksaw), but to bring the dish south of the border and make it “A Pata de Cerdo,” he added housemade chorizo to the stuffing. Sautéed chorizo and cubed leg meat are cooked separately with onion, garlic and Serrano peppers, then mixed with almonds, cilantro, chipotle chilies, panko breadcrumbs and mescal-soaked raisins. The stuffed trotter is braised in stock for 12 hours, refrigerated for 12 hours to set, then breaded, fried, baked and plated on shredded lettuce with tortillas and a side of cotija-topped Soupy Beans. Instead of foie gras, Schuttenberg piles on housemade pickled jalapeños, which cut the dish’s unctuous fattiness.

I recommend you get to Cabrito fast. The dish is a special this Saturday but they only serve four a night (unless they can find a hog bred with more than four legs). By the way, Cabrito (restaurant page) has some great happy hour deals on booze and tacos: “The Fatty Fix” (beer and bourbon, $12) got me in the proper frame of mind and the Taco Lengua ($3) blew away its counterpart at my standby, Tehuitzingo in Hell’s Kitchen. The eponymous Goat Belly Taco ($3), however, was the evening’s only disappointment.

Perhaps they should change the name of the place to “A Pata de Cerdo.”

AlwaysTraveling: La Bague de Kenza (Paris, France)

Michelle Kiefer — July 23, 2009

Assorted pastries at La Bague de Kenza in the 11th Arrondissement, Paris

Pastries are a must-eat when visiting Paris— there is no better place to indulge in classics like macarons, tarts and éclairs. But stopping into the Algerian pâtisserie, La Bague de Kenza in the 11th Arondissement, reveals a side of Parisian cuisine not readily found in every guidebook.This now trendy part of town still maintains its lively and multi-cultural feel, making La Bague de Kenza an exciting detour from the more touristed Parisian streets.

Restaurant: La Bague de Kenza (view site)
Address: 106 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris, France (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Ghribia, Cravatte de Pistache, Makrout, Dziriate, Mhajeb, Kesra

The shop is a wonderland of colors. Counters are filled with towering platters of small pastries in myriad shapes and designs. Each cookie and cake creation is an intricately detailed work of art. These are nut and honey-based treats that will surprise even the most devout pastry-lovers.

Two standouts include Ghribia, a Hershey Kiss-shaped mound with a subtle sweetness that melts on your tongue like the softest shortbread you can imagine, and the Cravatte Pistache, a crisp green spiral whose nut-sprinkled shell gives way to gooey pistachio filling. Other excellent choices include Makrout, a dense and crumbly cake made with dates and honey that puts Fig Newtons to shame, and the Dziriate, a delicately folded cup of pastry filled with almonds.

There is also a small counter featuring savory creations— an ideal way to balance all the sweets you’ll consume during your visit. The Mhajeb is an exceptional savory treat, a crêpe filled with cheese or vegetables. Even more addictive is Kesra, a dense, flatbread with a chewy center. Try to buy some of these wedges before they sell out or you may find yourself craving them at all hours.

There’s so much to choose from at La Bague de Kenza. Employees are happy to guide you with descriptions, but half the fun is in picking randomly. The truth is, all you really need to enjoy this unique pastry experience are a few French demonstrative pronouns – or just the ability to point and smile.

There are three other locations: 173 Rue du Faubourg, Saint-Antoine; 233 Rue de la Convention, Paris 15; 1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle, Savigny-sur-Orge (Essone)

AlwaysInvestigating: Allegretti’s Focaccia Sandwiches

The Gluttoness — July 17, 2009

When it comes to grabbing a sandwich for lunch in the Flatiron District, Allegretti (restaurant page) isn’t the first place you’d think of. The casually elegant atmosphere doesn’t scream high-end, but Chef Alain Allegretti’s French cuisine is upscale and priced accordingly. For the summer, they wanted to offer something a little more casual: focaccia sandwiches.

The new lunch sandwiches give diners the chance to experience Allegretti as a place for a three-course meal or a quick bite. They’re made with golden-brown, well-salted, homemade focaccia and are served with a butter lettuce and herb salad tossed in a mustard-shallot vinaigrette. The focaccia’s lightly crisp exterior gives way to a moist, doughy inside— a substantial sandwich base.

Crescenza Cheese Roasted Tomato and Charred Scallion ($11). Warm confit slices of tomato (slow-cooked in olive oil and herbs) pepper the creamy Italian sheep’s milk cheese that oozes between two thick layers of bread. The herbs offset the crescenza’s decadent mouthfeel and its lasting tang. The flavor profile was reminiscent of a supreme slice of pizza, and was enhanced by charred scallions. The combination of flavors put the traditional pairing of mozzarella and tomato to shame.

Spicy Coppa, House Pickles, Arugula and Pecorino Toscano ($13). Where the intensity of crescenza was well-matched to the thick focaccia, the thin slices of Coppa and thick slices of pecorino Toscano couldn’t stand up to it. The imported Italian Coppa was relatively mild, as was the semi-soft nutty pecorino. Allegretti’s homemade pickles change depending on what is in season. This sandwich featured pickled ramps, green tomato and fennel. They were this sandwich’s best component— brightening the flavors and delivering a vivid crunch amongst tender textures. The one problem with them was you want more.

This is Allegretti’s second venture into sandwich territory, the first was a “Pan Bagnat,” a traditional Niçoise sandwich. Management says the sandwiches have been well-received, they may remain on the menu after the summer ends. While the Spicy Coppa sandwich needs improvement, the gooey grilled cheese is a definite keeper.