AlwaysHungryOlympics: 17th Street
February 24, 2010
We don’t profess to be athletes, not even of the competitive eating genre. But, we have engaged in our own brand of gastronomic sport. From a restaurant crawl along Clinton Street to food questing in Queens, the Always Hungry Olympics have prompted some awe-inspiring eating. With inspiration running high from watching the nightly feats of the Winter Games, we sought out a significant challenge, and we found it not far from Always Hungry HQ.
On the menu this time, an underrated restaurant corridor: 17th Street. We even amended the Olympic motto: Citius Muneris, Altius Balbutio, Fortius Orexis (swifter service, higher stamina, stronger appetite). Now, the rules:
- We would try to eat at every significant restaurant on 17th Street in one night, necessitating fast eating and a brisk pace.
- Only restaurants that actually opened onto 17th Street were counted. That eliminated places like Cafeteria and Casa Mono.
- There were three Always Hungry eaters, so at each restaurant there were a minimum of three dishes, three alcoholic beverages, and three glasses of water ordered.
- In true Olympics style, we timed it all: orders, food, checks, etc.
Check Out this Epic Eating Adventure >>
Featured Brunch: Boqueria
GutterGourmet — January 29, 2010
Clockwise from top: Olives and Tortilla Espanola, Dátiles Con Beicon, 19th Street exterior, and Croquetas Cremosa.
Seamus Mullen may not have become the next Iron Chef (he came in third), but he has brought Spain to Manhattan’s brunch scene with his two Boqueria locations (19th Street and Spring Street).
Start with one of the best Bloody Marys in the City. It comes with a skewer of Spanish olive, fresh sardine, and guindilla pepper to add salt and heat to an already spicy Bloody Mary mix ($10). The Pimientos de Padrón are blistered shishito peppers with about every fourth one carrying intense heat. Order some with friends for a version of Spanish “Russian Roulette.”
For a more traditional brunch item, the fluffy Tortilla Espanola beats an omelet and hash browns any day. To add a side of bacon to your eggs, order the Dátiles Con Beicon, almond-stuffed dates wrapped in bacon. Need toast? Try the Cojonudo. Notwithstanding the nasty sounding name, it’s toast covered with chorizo and a fried quail egg. The Txipirones (baby squid) comes with an addictive dressing, over an arugula and radish salad, and fried chickpeas.
The Quesos Y Embutidos platter comes with a fantastic selection of cheeses (Idiazabal, the sexy nipple-shaped Tetilla, and La Serena, which is meant to be scooped with a spoon like fondue and eaten with quince paste). There are also mixed Spanish olives, grapes, pimiento, raisins, chorizo, lomo embuchado, and tomato-rubbed Pan con Tomate covered with jamón serrano. A variety of creamy Croquetas Cremosas (mushroom, chicken and more ham) and you’re set.
Don’t forget to save room for some Churros con Chocolate for dessert.
Face-Off: Sweetbreads
Arthur Bovino — December 16, 2009
Left, Maialino’s Animelle d’Abbacchio. Right Buffalo Sweetbreads at Rye House.
While eating at restaurants we come across incarnations of dishes that riff on a common theme. Some become menu staples and recommended dishes while others gradually fade into obscurity. This occasional feature, Face-Off, pits dishes against each other to see who comes out on top.
Amidst the recent openings, two presentations of sweetbreads stand out as dramatic winners and losers. Rye’s Buffalo Sweetbreads and Maialino’s Animelle d’Abbacchio.
Click Here for More About the Sweetbreads at Rye House and Maialino >>
AlwaysInformed: Forget Korean Tacos, Try The Crêpes
Arthur Bovino — November 30, 2009
Top, “Crêpe Korean Style Beef with Mixed Salad” at 22 Happy Cups. Bottom interior and exterior.
Anyone seeking other examples of Korean culinary fusion may be interested in 22 Happy Cups in the Flatiron District. They don’t do tacos, but this simple lunch spot offers a variety of crêpes. While most are conventional— including fresh fruit, cheese and other normal fillings— there’s one particular standout that’s more prominently featured: “Crêpe Korean Style Beef with Mixed Salad,” ($7.45).
Cross-section of crêpes, Korean-style at 22 Happy Cups.
The mixed salad is incidental (it wasn’t even dressed) and the dish isn’t exactly filling, but the light, thin crêpe was quite pleasant, and the meat inside was very tasty— sweet, salty, and juicy— your basic bulgogi preparation. If you’re in the neighborhood, it’s worth stopping in for a quick bite.
Information: 688 Avenue of the Americas, (212)929-2313
Hours: Daily, 7am-10pm
AlwaysInformed: Teatime at Tamarind’s Tea Room
The Gluttoness — October 26, 2009
Clockwise from left, tea sandwiches at Tamarind’s Tea Room: Lamb Sholley, Malai Tikka, Saag Paneer and Portobello Mushroom.
It wasn’t surprising to see The Village Voice’s Best of NYC list single out Aamchi Pao and Mumbai Express for “Best Kati Rolls,” and “Best Sammys,” but it got me thinking about Tamarind’s Tea Room, a casual, lunch-only café (daily, 11:30am-3:00pm) whose menu doesn’t offer anything more than $10.
With more than a dozen teas to choose from, and suggested pairings for each dish, this small tea café adjacent to Tamarind is as much about tea as food. But the six sandwiches are worth the visit alone. The owner, Avatar Walia, explained that in India, high tea is enjoyed with “wraps” and cookies. Indian teatime can be experienced at the cafe with its $32 “Tea for Two,” which includes two pots of tea, two sandwiches, and an assortment of pastries (“Tea for One” includes a teapot, a sandwich and pastries, $15.00). Sandwiches feature warm, house-made, blistered whole-wheat paratha with room temperature ingredients, and include lettuce, tomato, and raita (mango chutney is also excellent). “People don’t have much time, so the idea is to roll everything into one bite,” Walia said.
AlwaysInformed: Cabrito & Fatty Crab at Mad. Sq. Mark’t
The Hungry Goat — October 15, 2009
Chorizo Tacos by Cabrito and Fatty Crab’s ‘Fatty Dog.’
As Grub Street reported, Madison Square Park has upped its food game with a slew of pop-up vendors. Participants in Mad. Sq. Mark’t (view) include Hill Country, Wafels & Dinges and Ben & Jerry’s, but the real story is the stand shared by Fatty Crab (view) and Cabrito (view).
The Fatty Sliders and Fatty Dog were just as enjoyable as when we had them at the Upper West Side location when Fatty Crab opened, and the chorizo and al carbon tacos will certainly hit the spot if you have a craving (especially since going to Calexico in SoHo is a real time commitment). The stands will be up until November 1st, so if you’re a Flatiron luncher, it’s a must-visit, and surely a faster line situation than Shake Shack. Some pictures follow for your enjoyment.
FirstLook: Sagaponack Menu
The Hungry Goat — September 16, 2009
Somehow the poster images of lobster rolls and beaches at sunset in the windows of Sagaponack before it opened didn’t quite prepare us for their actual menu. AlwaysHungryNY.com got a hold of one this afternoon and we’re a little perplexed.
To illustrate, let’s play a little game of One of These Things Is Not Like The Others: homemade dumplings, authentic Korean-style pancake station, and a taco bar with nachos and hard or soft shell tacos. Sagaponack does have a lobster roll for $12.95, but judging by the rest of the menu, it’s not inspiring much confidence.
AlwaysInformed: Sagaponack Restaurant to Open in Flatiron District
The Hungry Goat — September 03, 2009
The interior, sign and exterior of the soon-to-open Sagaponack
The end of summer may be fast approaching, but New Yorkers living and working in the Flatiron District won’t have to mourn the loss of weekends spent out in the Hamptons. According to signage, a new restaurant called Sagaponack (presumably for the village in Southampton) will be opening next week in the space that was formerly Catch-22, a bar/lounge located at 4 West 22nd Street between 5th and 6th Avenues.
The vague sign provides few details, just that they will have “Wholesome food/ Casual lunch/ Great price,” with lunch service starting on September 9th. Judging from the quaint, homey décor and the images of lobster rolls, corn on the cob and beaches at sunset, chances are the food will be your standard clam bar fare. Because, after all, what this city really needs is another place to get a lobster roll.
FirstLook: Mari Vanna
Jeff Zalaznick — July 31, 2009
Mari Vanna, the new private Russian dinner club at 41 E 20th Street.
We recently got a first look inside Mari Vanna (restaurant page), the new exclusive Russian restaurant that has made a home next door to Veritas. That makes sense, as the place is meant to feel like someone’s home, and has been designed (down to the bathroom, below) with chandeliers, fine china, and glassware that you might find in your babushka’s living room.
Pictures, clippings and other homey touches in the proudly-touted bathroom at Mari Vanna.
According to the restaurant, Mari Vanna (pronounced marijuana, which can’t be overlooked) was a woman in Moscow who hosted extravagant, private dinners in her home. The people who Mari Vanna deemed worthy of eating with her were given keys, so that they could access the apartment. Successful in Moscow, this private dinner club concept was brought to St. Petersburg, and was an instant phenomenon there as well. Now, the same team has come to New York to bring this private Russian dinner party vibe to 20th Street. The goal of Mari Vanna is “to bring Russian food to New York.” They are trying to educate New Yorkers about what real, good Russian food is. Not the old-school, New York City variety found at Brighton Beach or the touristy stuff at the Russian Tea Room, but a lighter, healthier version of Russian food. As the staff noted to me, Russian food is “not necessarily heavy, and not necessarily borscht.”
Don’t worry, the exclusive “key” concept will be coming as well. The restaurant is carefully hand-selecting those who are worthy of such an honor. A key will give you entry and priority treatment at any time, just like it did at the house of Mari Vanna in Moscow. The restaurant is currently hosting private dinners (you need a key), but should be open to the public in September.
Pineapple-Infused Vodka
My visit began (and continued) with a tasting of the housemade infused vodkas (of course). On my trip they were offering watermelon, ginger honey, and the best, pineapple. I have a long history with pineapple-infused vodka (long story, different time), but this is a fabulous rendition. Just the right amount of sweetness so that you still know that you are boozing. They serve it by the shot or carafe(s).
Blinis with Red Caviar (30 gr)
The pancakes were one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. They are a perfectly doughy, pancake-crêpes hybrid. They are incredible eaten alone, with the red caviar which with they are served, and would definitely succeed with some maple syrup and butter in the morning. This dish is incredibly good though, and the quality of Mari Vanna’s salmon roe was on the level of a fabulously fresh ikura. On a side note, in true Russian fashion, if you want to take this dish to the next level, they will allow you to bring your own caviar.
AlwaysInvestigating: Allegretti’s Focaccia Sandwiches
The Gluttoness — July 17, 2009
When it comes to grabbing a sandwich for lunch in the Flatiron District, Allegretti (restaurant page) isn’t the first place you’d think of. The casually elegant atmosphere doesn’t scream high-end, but Chef Alain Allegretti’s French cuisine is upscale and priced accordingly. For the summer, they wanted to offer something a little more casual: focaccia sandwiches.
The new lunch sandwiches give diners the chance to experience Allegretti as a place for a three-course meal or a quick bite. They’re made with golden-brown, well-salted, homemade focaccia and are served with a butter lettuce and herb salad tossed in a mustard-shallot vinaigrette. The focaccia’s lightly crisp exterior gives way to a moist, doughy inside— a substantial sandwich base.
Crescenza Cheese Roasted Tomato and Charred Scallion ($11). Warm confit slices of tomato (slow-cooked in olive oil and herbs) pepper the creamy Italian sheep’s milk cheese that oozes between two thick layers of bread. The herbs offset the crescenza’s decadent mouthfeel and its lasting tang. The flavor profile was reminiscent of a supreme slice of pizza, and was enhanced by charred scallions. The combination of flavors put the traditional pairing of mozzarella and tomato to shame.
Spicy Coppa, House Pickles, Arugula and Pecorino Toscano ($13). Where the intensity of crescenza was well-matched to the thick focaccia, the thin slices of Coppa and thick slices of pecorino Toscano couldn’t stand up to it. The imported Italian Coppa was relatively mild, as was the semi-soft nutty pecorino. Allegretti’s homemade pickles change depending on what is in season. This sandwich featured pickled ramps, green tomato and fennel. They were this sandwich’s best component— brightening the flavors and delivering a vivid crunch amongst tender textures. The one problem with them was you want more.
This is Allegretti’s second venture into sandwich territory, the first was a “Pan Bagnat,” a traditional Niçoise sandwich. Management says the sandwiches have been well-received, they may remain on the menu after the summer ends. While the Spicy Coppa sandwich needs improvement, the gooey grilled cheese is a definite keeper.
AlwaysInformed: Restaurants in Eataly
July 01, 2009
As previously reported, Eataly (site), the 32,000 square foot artisinal Italian market that opened in Turin two years ago, is being brought to New York by Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich and Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Located in the former Toy Building at 200 Fifth Avenue, the 42,500 square foot space plans to open in Spring of 2010.
Here are the exciting food and restaurant details from the press release:
“This gourmand’s delight will feature cured meats and cheeses, fruits and vegetables, fresh meats, fresh fish, handmade pasta, desserts and baked goods and coffees.”
“Each retail area will be paired with its own dedicated restaurant, including a wood-fired pizza and pasta bar, a cheese and salami counter, a beef restaurant, a vegetable restaurant, a crudo and seafood bar, and a classic Italian bar serving gelato, espresso, and wine. There will be a separate wine shop, bakery and patisserie. On the roof will be a 4,500 square foot open-air rooftop beer garden serving pizza and sausages.”
Danny Meyer’s Chicken Soup for the Soul
The Hungry Goat — March 06, 2009
For Danny Meyer’s “Chicken Soup” initiative, the restaurateur has challenged the chefs at his esteemed restaurants (save Shake Shack) to come up with their own spin on classic Chicken Soup. For every bowl that is sold during this promotion, which lasts through March 31st, $2 will be donated to City Harvest. The truth is, in these difficult times, a comforting bowl of chicken soup might benefit the diner just as much as the charity. Especially when the soups in question feature ingredients like sweetbreads, black truffles, and ricotta dumplings.
I took to the streets in the name of culinary benevolence to see how Meyer’s restaurants were interpreting this simple dish. What I found were five very different, very delicious, interpretations of chicken soup, each a reflection of the restaurant and the chef.
AlwaysPartying: Great Gathering of Chefs
The Hungry Goat — September 26, 2008
Billed as the “largest gathering of chefs anywhere,” last night’s Great Gathering of Chefs saw many of the city’s big-name restaurants bring on a wealth of big-time flavor. The theme of the event, which benefitted The Children’s Storefront, was soup and dessert, and the grand space in the Prince George Ballroom was divided accordingly. We began our tasting on a sweet note, as it was the spread of dessert samples that first greeted us. Buddakan’s deliciously sour Concord Grape Noodles showcased innovative technique, while Olana’s Pumpkin Cheesecake perfectly encapsulated the flavors of Fall. Of the selection of savory soups at the other end of the room, Gilt impressed with a tangy Swiss Ale Cheese Soup, and Telepan’s Kielbasa and Cabbage Soup was a sophisticated take on a comfort classic.
AlwaysHungry: Flatiron Lunch
The Gluttoness — September 04, 2008
The AlwaysHungry Team hit up Boqueria for lunch this afternoon. We were able to saunter in past 3pm, grab a seat at the bar, catch the Federer/Murray match at the U.S. Open, all while sipping on some refreshing Rose Sangria. The menu was extra small at the odd hour and our lunch was relatively quick but there are two important things worth sharing:
1. The Dàtiles Con Béicon (bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with almonds and valdeón) are exceptional and represent the quintessential Spanish tapa at its finest. Between the sweet date, salty bacon, creamy cheese filling and crunchy almonds, you are instantly lost in an oblivion of decadent tastes and the most sumptuous mouthfeel.
2. No good can come from a pickled anchovie sandwich. Trust me. I thought the inclusion of apples would make for an intriguing amalgamation of flavors but the nauseating fishiness just overpowered all. I couldn’t even enjoy my multi-grain bread because it was tainted with fish juice. Sardines are one canned fish that make for superb sandwiches. Anchovies, not so much.
So lesson learned. Boqueria knocks it out of the park when it comes to fresh charcuterie and the swine-filled sandwiches are simply the best of the bunch. All sandwiches come with Mesclun Salad and Patatas Bravas (crispy potatoes topped with creamy aioli), which definitely come in handy when you order the anchovies. Never again.
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