AlwaysInvestigating: Revisiting The 5 & Diamond

Arthur Bovino — August 16, 2010

“Philly Cheese Steak” at The 5 and Diamond in Harlem.

We visited The 5 and Diamond in April to sample Ryan Skeen’s tasting menu. It was stellar. Japanese Sea Urchin with Hamachi Belly on Pork Rind, Lamb Loin and Belly with Carrot Purée, and Rabbit and Ratatouille Sausage Spaetzle. The pièce de résistance? Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel, an homage to La Maison Troigros’ signature L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. The only questions: 1) how long would Skeen stay? 2) would Harlem support the cuisine? Answers came quickly.

Skeen landed at Sweetiepie. But as things go, an answer begat a question. As Sarah DiGregorio reported in the Voice, The 5 and Diamond’s chef de cuisine, David Santos, had a larger role than was clear. This is to say that with an open invitation from a chef in charge of his menu it was time to revisit.

The tasting menu at The 5 and Diamond >>

Paying Homage: Troisgros’ Salmon and Sorrel

Arthur Bovino — April 19, 2010

An occasional feature that celebrates well-known dishes, and those that pay homage to them.

From left: L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille (Recette Originelle de 1965) at La Maison Troisgros in Roanne, and Grilled Salmon with Wild Sorrel at 5 & Diamond in Harlem.

For its recent gentrification, you still probably wouldn’t have expected to see an homage in Harlem to what is perhaps the world’s most famous salmon dish. But that is exactly what you’ll find with the Grilled Salmon and Wild Sorrel at chef Ryan Skeen’s 5 & Diamond.

First, a little background, and a culinary history reminder. Along with Paul Bocuse, it was Jean and Pierre Troigros of La Maison Troisgros, who pioneered nouvelle cuisine. And the signature dish at La Maison Troigros is of course, L’Escalope de Saumon à l’Oseille. As previously noted, Pierre’s son, Michel Troisgros, who runs the restaurant with his wife, Marie-Pierre, still serves the Recette Originelle de 1965 of this famous dish at the three Michelin-starred restaurant in Roanne, France.

Salmon and Sorrel in Roanne and Harlem >>