Featured Brunch: Maialino’s Pesce Spada Affumicato

Maryse Chevrière — June 04, 2010

Pesce Spada Affumicato at Maialino.

Smoked fish, cream, onion, toast— a combination familiar to New York’s brunch scene. But at the Gramercy darling, Maialino, the concept is given fresh legs Italian-style: Pesce Spada Affumicato.

The customary lox is replaced with smoked swordfish that is clean and simple, like a breakfast crudo. The fish is mild but with a meatier texture than you would expect for such a thin slice. It’s a plate that begs for do-it-yourself construction. A shmear of smooth robiolina on thin, chewy toast, swordfish on top of that, finished with a tart sliver of pickled red onion. A side of bitter greens, well-dressed with a splash of acid, helps you slow down and keep pace between bites.

Featured Restaurant: Taverna Kyclades

AlwaysHungry — November 11, 2009

Small Peasant Salad with Tomatoes, Kalamata Olives, Onions, Cucumber and Feta.

When it comes to authentic Greek cuisine, we all know Astoria is the place to go. Not only does the neighborhood boast a Greek population, and awesome Greek cuisine, but these restaurants are also easy on the wallet. The AlwaysHungryNY.com favorite has for a long time been Elias Corner, but Taverna Kyclades is also a delicious experience that’s worth the trip.

Read the Full Review of Taverna Kyclades here.

AlwaysInvestigating: Sick of Tuna? Try Nicky’s Sardines

The Gluttoness — October 29, 2009

Nicky’s Sardine Banh Mi, $5.

The “Classic Vietnamese Sandwich” is the obvious order on any visit to Nicky’s Vietnamese Restaurant (view). It features pâté, Vietnamese ham and roasted ground pork beneath the customary banh mi garniture of slightly pickled carrot, cucumbers and cilantro. But recently, I was tempted by a Sardine Banh Mi, which I was surprised to see as one of the menu’s few alternatives. The proliferation of Asian fish sandwiches is evident at even the simplest establishments.

When I was young, my Grandfather made sardine sandwiches for me all the time. Considering my earlier days were marred by pain-in-the-ass eating habits (including three years of vegetarianism), I’m surprised now that I always accepted these canned fish sandwiches. Nicky’s rendition doesn’t include the tomato, onion and vinegar accoutrements of my childhood, but it still made for a nostalgic lunch.

Both sandwiches begin with toasted bread. But Nicky’s warm baguettes are far superior to my Grandfather’s sliced rye. They’re a worthy base for any great sandwich. The slathering of mayo instantly melts into the toasted roll’s soft underbelly. The oven-roasted sardines lose some of their natural oil, but the creamy bed of spicy mayonnaise moistens them. The combined flavors taste much like your typical, albeit spiced, tuna sandwich, although the hefty handful of cilantro and hearty vegetable crunch creates a distinctly Vietnamese profile. With a squirt of sriracha, the sardines’ mild fishiness disappears.

The Sardine Banh Mi is definitely different, and satisfying on its own, but ultimately, if you’re into heat and not averse to swine, then when it comes to grabbing banh mi at Nicky’s, nothing beats the classic.

FirstLook: Ed’s Chowder House

The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009

The exterior of Ed’s Chowder House, and the raw bar, inside.

When news broke about Center Cut’s transformation into Ed’s Chowder House (view), I instantly had confidence in Jeffrey Chodorow’s new direction with Eighty-One’s Chef Ed Brown. After City Harvest’s Street & Savory Event in June, I named Brown’s Crispy Fried Clam Roll the evening’s best savory bite. Considering that Center Cut was bad and remarkably over-priced, a sophisticated clam shack seemed worth a shot (though said Clam Roll is nowhere to be found). The stately decor and older crowd hasn’t changed much, but both the bar (with it’s own menu) and dining room are crowded with diners now that buttery Lobster Rolls are flying out of the kitchen a la Pearl Oyster Bar.

Click here for more about Ed's Chowder House >>

AlwaysInformed: Tenzan’s Sushi Sports Bar

The Gluttoness — September 11, 2009

Tenzan’s new bar with flat-screen televisions, a sushi and sports lovers’ dream.

When you’re considering where to go watch the football game, the first thing that usually comes to mind is a good ol’ fashion sports bar— maybe even a barbeque joint. But you definitely wouldn’t think of a sushi bar on the Upper West Side. But Tenzan (restaurant page) is the ideal spot if you’ve ever dreamt of dining on spicy tuna rolls as your team crushes its competition—or so you hope. Foremost, their fish is incredibly fresh, reasonably priced and they don’t skimp on their sashimi slices. In addition to a laundry list of eclectic specialty rolls there’s also a variety of teriyakis and fried tempuras to appease your non-sushi-eating friends.

Tenzan recently expanded into the adjacent storefront. It now boasts a modern bar area with a dozen stools and six two-tops (which can be combined for larger parties), soaring ceilings and three impressive 50-inch plasmas. The once quiet Japanese restaurant is now commanded by techno beats and these badass flat-screens, which broadcast picture-perfect sporting events. A recent lunch lasted much longer than it was supposed to as Serena Williams’ performance at the US Open distracted from the matter at hand, some Double Taste and Dancing Eel Rolls (right). The TV’s are only visible from the new bar area and there’s a much quieter atmosphere upstairs in the main dining room.

Tenzan already stood alone as a stellar neighborhood spot but when word gets out, their TV’s are going to draw large, sports-and-sushi loving audiences. Beat the crowd, swap your usual Sam Adams for some cold sake and let the games begin!

HungryHamptons: Clam Bar at Napeague (Montauk, NY)

Arthur Bovino — September 10, 2009

Fried Clam Roll ($6) from the Clam Bar at Napeague.

Restaurant: Clam Bar at Napeague (view site)
Address: ‎ 2025 Montauk Highway (Route 27), Montauk, NY 11954 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A-
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Lobster Roll, Fried Clams
Hours: Late March to Thanksgiving, daily, 12pm-8pm.

The old-fashioned, red and white Clam Bar at Napeague on Montauk Highway on the narrow tract between Amagansett and Montauk has been owned and operated by Dick Ehrlich since 1981. It’s the picture-postcard place to stop in the Hamptons for a bite to eat after a day of driving around with your music blaring, the top down and your cheeks flushed pink and freckled with sun. Even if this roadside seafood shack didn’t serve good fare, you’d almost have to stop there and take a picture with your girlfriend for no other reason than the one sung about in that old Kinks song.

But there’s nothing to prove at the Clam Bar. Its fish and shellfish are from local fishing boats and baymen. You can eat freshly shucked clams on the half-shell with local white wine from Duck Walk Vineyards or local beers from the Blue Point Brewing Company while sitting at the bar or be waited on by one of the efficient servers at a yellow and white parasol-shaded table.

The menu is thorough and reasonably priced. You’ll find: Cajun Popcorn Shrimp ($6.50), both New England and Manhattan Clam Chowder ($4.50/cup), Steamed Mussels or Lobster, Crab Cakes, as well as all manner of fried fare (whole clams, shrimp, oysters, scallops, clam strips and chicken nuggets). There are also grilled fish specials like Tuna, Swordfish, Shrimp, Salmon and Mahi Mahi. The Lobster Roll is good— better than the one available at the nearby stalwart, Lobster Roll (aka Lunch).

Still, the best thing to get at the Clam Bar at Napeague are the fried clams, which are great. It’s a high quality stop, a great place to sit outside and soak in the summer, or what’s left of it.

The menu: from Spicy Crab and Sweetcorn Chowder ($6.50) and steamed lobster to hamburgers.

Lobster Salad Roll, Market Price.

Crab Cakes, $7/2.

AlwaysTraveling: O Ya (Boston, MA)

Zach Aarons — August 21, 2009

Bottom left, Hamachi Nigiri with Spicy Banana Pepper Mousse. Right, Warm Eel with Thai Basil, Kabayaki, and Fresh Kyoto Sansho.

Restaurant: O Ya (view site)
Address: 9 East Street, Boston, MA‎, 02111 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Foie Gras Nigiri, Fried Kumamoto Oyster Nigiri, La Ratte Potato Chip Nigiri, House Smoked Wagyu Nigiri

In 2008, The New York Times’ restaurant critic, Frank Bruni, put O Ya at the top of his list of the “country’s best new restaurants.” The following year, Boston Magazine named it “Best of Boston 2009, General Excellence.” More accolades followed. Most importantly though, Jeff suggested that I go there, so I recently visited to see if O Ya could dispel my skepticism about Boston’s culinary scene.

O Ya is pleasant and unpretentious. The menu is divided into two sections. The front features nigiri and sashimi, while the back includes vegetables, meats, salads, soups, and several interestingly named categories: ‘truffles & eggs,’ ‘other stuff,’ and ‘something crunchy in it.’

We ordered omakase, which focused on the nigiri and sashimi. It began with oysters— one of two prominent appearances of this ingredient that seemed strategically timed. Though both dishes featured Kumamoto oysters, they could not have been more different. The first was a summery dish that opened up the palate with bright, delightful flavors: Fresh Kumamoto Oyster coupled with Watermelon pearls and Cucumber Mignonette.

At the meal’s midpoint, just as the memory of the fresh oyster began to fade, the evening’s best dish arrived, Fried Kumamoto Oyster with Yuzu Kosho Aioli and Squid Ink Bubbles. The fried oyster was light and fluffy, but possessed dark, savory flavors. Its squid ink bubbles paired elements of traditional Japanese cooking, avant-garde gastronomic technique, and good old New England-style seafood. The oyster was a masterpiece that melted away mellifluously. It was unlike any oyster I have ever tasted.

Continue Reading >>

Featured Restaurant: Beyoglu

The Gluttoness — August 10, 2009

Beyoglu’s Shepherd Salad

With its pseudo-tented ceiling and brilliant, multi-colored walls, Beyoglu’s vibrant décor is well-matched to the colorful plates of Turkish meze served there. It was opened under the guidance of the outspoken Turkish chef, Orhan Yegen of Sip Sak, who claimed to us to have been “cheated” out of the restaurant, which he says still relies on his recipes. Regardless, the vegetarian-heavy menu still includes brilliant and bountiful salads and a slew of mezes made for sharing. It has been embraced by the Upper East Side and become appreciated for its heart-healthy cuisine and tremendous value.

Traditional staples like stuffed grape leaves, mashed eggplant salad and falafel are expertly executed, as are the hot rounds of worth-it Turkish bread. Fork-tender octopus is enhanced by ezme, which is like a spicy vegetable tapenade, and a refreshing, dill-scented spinach accented with sweet bites of shallot. You can easily fill up on zucchini pancakes and phyllo cigars filled with feta, but save room for the whole-grilled fish, meaty kebabs with nutty rice pilaf, and dessert: crumbly pistachio halva or flaky baklava with a foamy cappuccino. This cuisine can be heavy on the olive oil, but on the whole, a meal at Beyoglu is characterized by bright, fresh flavors. It’s ideal place for a casual evening of authentic Turkish dining.

Check out the pictures from a recent meal at Beyoglu on its restaurant page here.

SEARCH: Fish & Chips

The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009

There are no two ways about it, a fresh basket of Fish & Chips and a cold beer just make a great meal. You don’t have to cross the pond for it either. A Salt & Battery dishes up some of the best British pub grub in town. Their chips are soggy by American standards but believe it or not, that doesn’t stop them from being really good, and the fried cod is a great control against which to start judging other fried fish in the city. The impressively crisp exterior encases buttery, flaky fish inside. The tartar sauce, which almost seems to have been puréed, is also superb. We love to add a dash of malt vinegar for a distinctive tang. If you want to put A Salt & Battery’s fish and chips up against the city’s other top contenders, just use the VERY ADVANCED SEARCH we’ve included for you below.

AlwaysHungryNY Recommended Fish & Chips
Other recommended renditions of fish and chips can be found using this search.

AlwaysHungryNY Fish & Chips with Outdoor Seating
One problem with A Salt & Battery is the cramped, limited seating. If you’re looking to feast on Fish & Chips in an outdoor setting, use this search.

AlwaysLearning: Velouté

The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009

During a recent, fantastic meal at an ‘underground restaurant’ named The Cardinal Club, our hosts Simon and Paula, prepared a Sunchoke Velouté with Leeks and Paddlefish Caviar (right). The dish was served as a soup and its execution was as textbook and delightful as you’d expect at a fine French restaurant. It inspired a discussion that led to an investigation of Velouté, and we thought we would share some of what we learned.

What It Is: Velouté is one of the four original French mother sauces (the other three are Allemande, Béchamel, and Espagnole) as designated by Antonin Carême, an early practitioner and champion of haute cuisine in the 19th century.

How It’s Made: A proper velouté (French for ‘velvet’ or ‘velvety’) starts with a light stock (veal, chicken or fish) made with unroasted bones. It is thickened with a blond roux (equal parts flour and butter cooked until a pale paste is formed) to make a light-hued sauce with a velvety texture, thus the name.

Where to Eat It: Considering that velouté is a classic French sauce, it’s no surprise that you can find renditions of it at some of the city’s finest French restaurants. Daniel plates a Frog Leg and Watercress Velouté with Truffled Mousseline, Black Garlic and Chervil. Café Boulud, Daniel Boulud’s other restaurant, currently serves two dishes that use the sauce: Prince Edward Island Mussel Velouté with Green Curry, Fava Beans and Baby Cauliflower; and Vidalia Onion Velouté with Spring Garlic, Crispy Frog Legs and Parsley. Gordon Ramsay’s, eponymous restaurant makes a Ravioli of Quail, Preserved Walnuts, Mushroom Velouté and Celeriac.

AlwaysLearning: Bouillabaisse

April 08, 2009

What it is: A traditional Southern French Fish Stew housing a menagerie of cooked fish and shellfish.

Where it comes from: It was first created by French fishermen who wanted to make an inexpensive meal when they returned to port. The city most well known for Bouillabaisse is Marseille. They were so serious about their soup that in 1980, they passed the Marseille Bouillabaisse Charter, which clearly outlines the official ingredients.

Fish: Scorpion Fish, Red Mullet, White Scorpion Fish, John Dory, Conger Eel, or Skate. Spiny Lobster is optional. (4 of them, in any combination, is necessary)

Other ingredients: Salt, Pepper, Saffron, Olive Oil, Garlic, Onions, Fennel, Parsley, Potatoes and Tomatoes.

There are many great places to get Bouillabaisse in Marseille, but the most famous (and quite possibly the best) is actually located further East along the Cote d’Azur in Golfe Juan (near Antibes). The restaurant is called Tetou and it is truly a Bouillabaisse Restaurant. Along with the few options of grilled fish or salad, there are really only 2 main choices on the menu: Bouillabaise or Bouillabaise with Lobster. Of course, the Bouillabaisse is served in the traditional style: Rouille (Garlic-Chili Pepper Aioli) and Croutons (toasted bread) on the table, then the bowl of soup, then each type of fish, filleted and plated, course by course.

Where can you get it in NY: Bagatelle and Balthazar (top right) both serve their bouillabaisse as a daily special on Fridays. Similar to their famous Lobster Rolls, Mary’s Fish Camp and Pearl Oyster Bar both have competing versions of the old school stew to showcase their fresh shellfish.

Starting tomorrow you’ll be able to enjoy Allegretti’s acclaimed Provençal Fish Soup (above). Although there is no shellfish present, the gourmet dish features the fragrant broth of bouillabaisse alongside the traditional accompaniments: rouille and croutons. An addition of gruyere cheese makes for a French onion soup-like finish. Meant to be eaten using the “kitchen sink approach”: garlic from the crouton and the rouille seasons the herbaceous broth. Awarded best soup by New York Magazine in 2009, the complete effect makes for a light and vibrant dish, though we cannot consider it a competitor for best new soup.

AlwaysHungryNY: “Gimme Back That Filet ‘o Fish”

March 30, 2009

It’s been a while since anyone on the Council enjoyed McDonald’s Filet ‘o Fish, but their latest ad campaign has us singing about this fried fish sandwich all day long. At one point, these wall-mounted fish were singing sensations in their own right, the stars of constantly running informercial blips. But, now the charismatic fish has moved up the food chain, hawking McDonald’s Filet ‘o Fish sandwich in this brand new commercial, pitifully begging the man in his garage to “gimme that fish.”

Traditionally, McDonald’s advertises their Filet ‘o Fish during Lent, and this year’s offbeat campaign features an awfully awkward situation set to an incredibly catchy techno beat. You can’t help but feel bad for the frightful fish, who makes his argument with:

“What if it were you hanging up on this wall?—If it were you in that sandwich you wouldn’t be laughing at all!”

Well the ad certainly has us all laughing at AlwaysHungryNY; it’s just not so funny when the entire office can’t stop singing the annoying ditty, in “fish” voices, no less.

AlwaysLearning: Koulibiac

March 26, 2009

The AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters was dining at Balthazar on a Wednesday afternoon when we were presented with a daily special that was surprisingly unbeknownst to any of us: Koulibiac. Two fillets of salmon sandwich a beautiful layer of mushroom duxelles. This is then wrapped in a mixture of stewed onions, spinach, cabbage, dill and rice, which is then wrapped in puff pastry and served over a white wine and mushroom cream sauce. As you can see, this results in quite a presentation. Although this rendition was overcooked and underseasoned, it was clear that this dish had a lot of potential, and was deserving of further investigation.

Koulebiac is the French adaption of a traditional Russian speciality, Kulbyaka, a fish pie with grains (usually rice—kasha and buckwheat are alternatives), mushrooms, onions and hard-boiled eggs baked in a pastry shell. The dish can be prepared with any fish, or even chicken, though salmon is the most traditional. Historically, the dish was finished with Vesiga, which is the dried marrow of a sturgeon’s spinal cord. The Russian staple was brought over to classical French cuisine by the great Chef Escoffier in “The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery,” in which it became known as Koulibiac or Coulibiac.

The French adaption elevated the dish to haute cuisine. Shallots are substituted for onions, the pastry shell is either egg-washed brioche dough or puff pastry, and the creamy mixture of condiments is seasoned with white wine, dill and sometimes lemon. The presentation can best be compared to that of beef wellington. Koulibiac can be made as an individual serving and served as an appetizer, or a large piece of salmon can be used, making for a large, family-sized portion that can be sliced table-side.

What if we substituted the pastry for a bacon weave? We will be experimenting with this very interesting dish in the future.

SEARCH: Healthy, Impressive First Date, Raw Bar?

March 15, 2009

Use our very advanced search engine to always find the perfect place. Do you want to impress your first date—a healthy girl with a weak spot for raw bars? You know what they say about oysters! Here’s what’s AlwaysHungry Approved:

1. Avra Estiatorio 141 E. 48th Street

Recommended Dishes: Stuffed Squid, Whole Fish

2. BLT Fish 21 W. 17th Street

Recommended Dishes: Rock Shrimp Risotto, Dover Sole, Red Snapper “Cantonese Style”

3. Blue Fin 1567 Broadway

Recommended Dishes: Spicy Tuna Roll

4. Lure Fishbar 142 Mercer Street

Recommended Dishes: Shellfish Platter (pictured), Lobster Roll

5. Esca 402 W. 43rd Street

Recommended Dishes: Crudo, Maccheroni alla Chitarra, Branzino For Two

6. Fishtail 135 E. 62nd Street

Recommended Dishes: Taquito Trio, Rice Crispy Crabcake, Dover Sole, “Can ‘o Cake”

7. Mercer Kitchen 99 Prince Street

Recommended Dishes: Oysters, Peekytoe Crab Cake, Tuna Pizza, Niman Ranch Cheeseburger

8. Oyster Bar 89 E. 42nd Street

Recommended Dishes: Oysters, Fried Oysters, New England Clam Chowder, Pan Roasts

9. Sea Grill 19 W. 49th Street

Recommended Dishes: Oysters & Raw Bar, Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes, A La Plancha Specialties

10. Thalassa 179 Franklin Street

Recommended Dishes: Horiatiki, Kataifi-Wrapped Diver Scallops, Pan-Seared Dover Sole

Menus Made Simple: Shang

February 24, 2009

To truly be AlwaysHungry, one must fluently speak food in at least five languages, but as you journey towards enlightenment there will be times when a menu presents too many obstacles. Enter Menus Made Simple: our way of making sure that you are properly prepared before you go to a restaurant. There is nothing more annoying than asking the waiter a thousand questions, and now you can save yourself the embarrassment.

Osmanthi: Flowering plants native to East Asia. The tiny, white flowers bloom every season except winter and have a strong fragrance and floral flavor.

Burdock Root: The root of the burdock plant is best known for its prickly heads that resemble thistles. Burdock is grown in many nations but it is native to Asia where the roots are commonly used in the cuisine. They have a brownish-red outer layer and pale gray flesh inside. The flavor of young burdock root resembles that of an artichoke while older roots tend to become bitter.
Magret Duck Breast with Osmanthi Flower Chili Honey & Braised Burdock Root

Tong Yuan: Eaten in Singapore to celebrate Don Zhi, these gummy dumplings are made from glutinous rice dough that is rolled into marble-sized balls and are often served in soup. The balls are boiled and are ready to eat when they float. Any additional flavor and color can be added to the dough during the kneading process.
Traditional Warm Black Sesame & Peanut Tong Yuan, Grapes, Watercress & Osmanthi Honey Consommé

Water Shield (aka Dollar Bonnet): Perennial, aquatic “herb” with floating oval-shaped leaves that are green on top and reddish-purple underneath with small, light-purple flowers that rise above the surface. Water sheild imparts a light, fresh essence although it has no distinct taste, instead it takes on the flavor of the soup with which it’s often prepared.
Kelp-Marinated Seared Kobe Beef with Pickled Vegetables, Water Shield, Browned Butter Soy & Wasabi

Char Siu (aka Barbequed/Roast Pork): This type of sui mei (Cantonese roast pork) literally translates to “fork roast” after the traditional method of preparation. Long strips of seasoned, boneless pork are skewered with long forks and placed in a covered oven or over a fire. The meat, typically a shoulder, is seasoned with a mixture of honey, five-spice powder, fermented tofu, dark soy sauce, hoisin sauce, red food coloring and sherry or rice wine vinegar which turns the exterior layer of the meat a dark red.
Shaved Char Siu Pork Loin with Hot Mustard Green Bean, Lily Bulb & Almondine Salad

Mantou: A dough made from wheat flour, water and leavening ingredients that is commonly used to make Chinese steamed buns.
Whole Wheat Mantou Bread/Foie Gras & Chicken Liver Pate with Green Onion Pancakes, Wheat Mantou Crisps & Black Currant Jam

Lemon Balm: An herb in the mint family native to Europe and the Mediterranean. The name comes from the leaves’ slight lemon scent and it’s often used as a flavoring element in ice cream and herbal teas.
Crispy Lobster, Salted Duck Egg, Lemon Balm, Shallot & Chili Lime Juice in Lettuce Wrap

Pennywort (aka Brazilian Water Ivy): Bright green-stemmed plants with round leaves and low-growing habits. The plants do not need be rooted and thrive best in aquatic, marshy environments. Their flavor is marked by a slight, bitter tang.
Thin Sliced Octopus with Tomatillo, Tomato Salad & Pennywort Relish

Black & White Tree Ear Mushrooms (aka Wood Ear Mushrooms): These types of mushrooms grow in bunches out of the sides of trees making it look like the trunks have ears. The lobes are meaty and flat on the other end and can get as big as 8” across. These mushrooms are best known and most often used in Asia although they grow in China, Europe and the United States. When fresh, they have a somewhat gummy texture and are translucent in color. When dry, they turn black, but they are the only edible mushroom to have the same flavor and texture when fresh or when dried and reconstituted.
Steamed Soy Spinach Custard with Black & White Tree Ear Mushrooms & Soy Juice

Madai: The name for Japanese red snapper.
Sashimi of Madai poached in Fresh Chicken Coriander Broth

Djan: A Sichuan-style chili sauce.
Smoked Squab Breast & Foie Gras in Lotus Crepes with Savory Bean Djan

Desert Moss: A black and hairy green that grows outside Beijing and has a mushroom-like taste.
Homemade Steamed Tofu Custard with Crab, Shrimp, Lobster, Mussels & Air Dried Scallop, Desert Moss & Tanjin Bouillon