James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

AlwaysPartying: Scharffen Berger Chocolate Luncheon

from left: Chef Jacques Pépin; Sharffen Berger Chocolates; John Scharffenberger

Julia Child once called Scharffen Berger, “America’s finest dark chocolate,” recalled John Sharffenberger during yesterday’s Scharffen Berger Chocolate Luncheon at the French Culinary Institute in SoHo, an event honoring the soon-to-be-released film, Julie & Julia (Aug. 7).

Guests were treated to a clip of the title character, Julie Powell (Amy Adams) being inspired by Scharffen Berger chocolate, a chocolate-tasting led by John Scharffenberger, cooking demos by Chef Jacques Pépin, and a three-course lunch consisting of chocolate-inspired dishes. The tasting involved three dark chocolate varieties (82%, 70%, 60% cacao) and one milk chocolate . Unlike single-origin chocolates, Sharffen Berger sources cacao blends from multiple origins that change each year depending on which beans are deemed “extraordinary” at the time. Mr. Sharffenberger described this blend as a “symphony” in contrast to the “beauty of a flute solo.” It’s an approach that corresponds with his description of “flavor as a time lapse.”

Lunch was prepared by Chef Jacques Pépin with help from FCI students. The appetizer, Pâté de Faux Gràs a Ma Façon, featured a buttery crostini spread with rich, savory chicken foie gras, sprinkled with cacao nibs and chopped pistachio. The entrée was a perfectly tender Tri Tip Roast with Cacao Nib Rub. Some audience members were the lucky beneficiares of one of Chef Pépin’s cooking demonstrations: crepes with grated chocolate. The grand finale was a dessert trio: Warm Chocolate Cake with Apricot-Cognac Sauce, Chocolate Raspberry Gratin, and Chocolate Rochers with Hazelnut and Cornflakes. Each dish emphasized the simplicity of its ingredients.

Sharing one of his favorite quotes, Pépin asked, “What is patriotism but the tastes of the dishes you had as a child?” This link between food and memory was present throughout the afternoon as he shared memories of his family as they related to the chocolate dishes he prepared, as well as his favorite anecdotes of Julia Child, the woman who made French cooking accessible to the masses.

 

Pâté de Faux Gras a Ma Façon

 

Tri Tip Roast with Cacao Nib Rub

 

Warm Chocolate Cake w/Apricot-Cognac Sauce; Chocolate Rasperry Gratin; Chocolate Rochers w/Hazelnut & Cornflakes

AlwaysHungryNY: J.T. Pappy’s Termigator Hot Sauce

It will be interesting to see what fast food product placements there are in Terminator Salvation’s 2018, post-apocalyptic vision of California. Indications are that director, McG (Joseph McGinty Nichol), has taken the project seriously, so while the resulting debris of Skynet’s attempt to annihilate humanity may include half-destroyed signs for 7-Eleven and Pizza Hut (rumored product placement partners), we’re guessing John Connor and the Resistance won’t be snacking on Twinkies and Tuscani Lasagna.

While it’s not a tie-in to the film, we recently discovered one chuckle-inducing, Terminator-themed food product: J.T. Pappy’s Termigator, a “Politically Incorrect Extra Hot Sauce“ in a 9 oz bottle ($3.95). The label pictures a pumped-up, toothy alligator resembling Arnold Schwarzenegger, wearing a leather vest and sunglasses, and sporting a crew cut. The claim on J.T. Pappy’s website challenges the Terminator’s superiority throughout the series:

Pappy always said, “Ain’t no tougher critter than a hungry gator!”

Somehow, we doubt anything vegetarian could take on a T-800 but we’ll give the sauce one thing: after an initial two seconds of sweetness, it has a pretty significant bite— enough to give a considerable tickle to the back of your throat. Austin Scorpio, a fan of the early movies and the sauce’s creator, said he was inspired to make the sauce during Arnold Schwarzenegger’s gubernatorial campaign (“politically incorrect” referring to his missteps and his marriage to Kennedy-clan member, Maria Shriver).

As it’s doubtful that Christian Bale or AH-nold (in his certain cameo) will say the classic catchphrase, we’ll leave you with J.T. Pappy’s version: “Sauce-A-La Vista, Baby!”

AlwaysTraveling: Charlie’s Hamburgers (Folsom, PA)

Charlie’s Hamburgers was first opened by Charlie Convenry in 1935. When the restaurant was forced to relocate further away from Route 402, Charlie sold it to long-time manager, Bernard “Bunny” McDonald, who opened the new Folsom, PA, location in 1986.

One juicy bite of a Charlie’s hamburger makes it easy to understand how they have maintained a loyal fan base despite a no-frills attitude and an influx of fast-food chains— little besides the location has changed. The same family of Jewish butchers has supplied the restaurant since 1935 and aside from the ice cream, nothing is frozen. The secret behind the beef is that they use meat from the front portion of the stomach. When asked about the smaller than average burger size, it’s explained that things are done the way they were first done and that, “people had smaller appetites back then.”

 

To compensate for the smaller patty size, most customers order doubles (above). Cheeseburgers are topped with thick slabs of yellow American cheese cut the old-fashioned way, from a giant brick. At Charlie’s, hot dogs (right) mean Philly Franks sliced through the center and weighted so the insides get blackened and extra crispy. Burgers and dogs are served on Baker’s Touch Sandwich Rolls, and the buns are always grilled on the greasy flattop. Condiments include ketchup, mustard, relish, pickles, tomato, onions, but you also have the option of ordering “à la Charlie,” with pickles, tomato and fried onion (top). Charlie’s has always used Potts Ice Cream to make their super thick milkshakes. It’s said that this is in return for Mr. Potts having lent Charlie Convenry part of the stake he needed to originally open the restaurant.

It might seem easy to saddle up to the counter and consume burger after burger with a cool Black-and-White milkshake, but if you’re the competitive type, keep in mind you’ll have to best the current record of 28 burgers if you want the title for most eaten. According to the folks at Charlie’s, this record is the legacy of Pat Ryan, who played the Mayor in The Toxic Avenger. Considering the cult following for these hamburgers, it’s fitting that an actor from a cult classic holds Charlie’s hamburger-eating title.

Restaurant: Charlie’s Hamburgers
Address: 336 Kedron Ave, Folsom, PA (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: B
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Hamburger, Cheeseburger, Shakes
Notes: Closed Tuesday.

 

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