AlwaysRemembering: Ubuntu & El Bulli
February 17, 2010
From left: Ubuntu’s Gargouillou of Daily Vegetables, El Bulli’s Sea Anemone 2008.
Along with the news about El Bulli, the sudden departure of Jeremy Fox (and staff) from Ubuntu means that within a week, two storied dining experiences seem to have just up and disappeared.
We’d like to direct your attention to the photographs of two excellent meals that we were fortunate enough to enjoy at these restaurants. We’re anxious to see the outcome of these chefs’ next ventures.
AlwaysTraveling: The Bazaar by José Andrés (Los Angeles, CA)
Jeff Zalaznick — July 29, 2009
Mozzarella-Tomato Pipettes with Micro basil and Instructions
The Bazaar, located in the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles, is the first restaurant by José Andrés outside the Washington D.C. area. José Andrés is a culinary legend in Spain and the United States and is a disciple and close friend of Chef Ferran Adrià. He started to bring some of El Bulli’s molecular magic to the US when he opened the six seat Mini Bar on the second floor of Café Atlántico. This concept has been expanded with the opening of Bazaar.
The menu is split into two sections: Traditional Tapas and Modern Tapas. The traditional is a solid run-through of traditional Catalonian tapas, while the modern is the experimental— the magic of food and science that one would expect at a place called The Bazaar by José Andrés. While Andrés’ “modern” masterpieces borrow from El Bulli, they truly are a personification of a chef who has embraced both his past and his present. You’ll find the airs, foams, tomato hearts and spherification, but at the same time, the dishes are characterized by an American sensibility. There are riffs on Caesar Salad, Tacos, Cheesesteaks, Shrimp Cocktail and Caprese Salad.
Indeed, Bazaar might be called, El Bulli Americana. It might also be called the best new restaurant of 2009. It is definitely in the running in my book.
Restaurant: The Bazaar
Address: 465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Olives, Caviar & Tomato Heart Cones, Tempura Avocado, Ottoman Carrot Fritters, Organized Caesar, Watermelon Tomato Skewers, Sea Urchin Buns
Organized Caesar
Quail Egg, Parmesan
Sea Urchin
Avocado, Steamed Buns
AlwaysTraveling: El Bulli (Roses, Spain)
Jeff Zalaznick — June 16, 2009
In honor of tonight’s late opening of El Bulli (it usually opens in April) I thought it appropriate to publish my meal of July 24th, last year (above, Sea Anemone 2008). I do not know why it has taken me so long to share this, but for some reason I needed to let it marinate for a bit.
History:
For the unitiated, El Bulli overlooks the Cala Montjoi Bay in Roses on the Costa Brava in Catalonia, Spain, and unbelievably, was founded as a minigolf installation in 1961 by a German couple who named it for their French bulldogs (a breed known colloquially as bulli). The year 1964 saw the restaurant’s first incarnation, which won its first Michelin star in 1976 with Chef Jean-Louis Neichel, and its second (1990) and third (1997) stars with Ferran Adrià, who started there in 1984 and took the helm in 1987. At last count, El Bulli employed more than 40 chefs and is a temple of molecular gastronomy . El Bulli has been judged the world’s best restaurant a record five times (2002 & 2006-2009).
My Thoughts:
1) El Bulli makes you feel better about yourself as a person and proud of yourself as an eater.
At El Bulli, you feel incredible about yourself. You have made it. You are holding court in the king’s castle. The culinary holy grail (above, Razor Clam / Laurencia). It is a totally surreal experience. Euphoria seizes your grip on reality. Finally, you can walk with your head held high amongst the culinary elite. You get to truly savor this feeling because as one of the eight thousand (out of two million) who will get to eat there this summer, there is no rush. I sat down at 7pm and finished well after 1am. We then sat on the terrace (a must) for a few hours— that’s an eight-hour meal. In order to truly appreciate this, one needs to be an experienced eater. It makes all the hard work worth it.
2) The El Bulli team is incredible.
The swagger and exclusivity that you would think would come with the territory is non-existent. Upon arrival, you are greeted graciously by Juli Soler (Chef Ferran Adrià‘s partner in crime) but so casually that you feel as if you made the reservation on OpenTable a few hours before, not as if you had been trying for years of your life (above, Water Lily).
3) I understand why El Bulli is considered the best restaurant in the world.
El Bulli was not the best meal of my life. But it was the most interesting, and food-wise, the most intense. It totally blurred the lines between what was edible and what was art. It humbles dining experts, as it makes you realize that there are still so many gastronomic boundaries to be explored and broken.
Everything at El Bulli is fun. Everything is perfect in its own way. This is exactly what is so impressive: the El Bulli Way is different. In this oversaturated food world, where trends take control and dishes start to seem similar, it is so seldom that we actually find something or someone who is doing it truly in their own way. That is why El Bulli is so special. They do it their way. And, their way is fantastic.
4) You got to have friends.
Losing my El Bulli virginity was a team effort by way of a wonderful marriage between my closest friend Zach Aarons and Camilla Gale. Had Zach not had the foresight to ask Camilla to be his wife, I would have never been asked to Provence for the engagement party. Had I never been asked to Provence, had Zach not had the good fortune to get a reservation and had someone not dropped out, then I would still be living the shameful existence that is never having been to El Bulli. Zach, good choice.
Honestly though, I was truly honored to be a part of this historic meal between the Gale and Aarons families, and I cannot thank both of you enough for including me. Now, the question is, where are we going this summer?
Overview:
Restaurant: Restaurante El Bulli
Address: Cala Montjoi, Ap. 30 17480, Roses, Girona, Spain (view map)
Rating: *** (Michelin)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Parmesan “Air”, Hot & Cold Pea Soup, Spherical Olives, Sea Anemones, Rabbit Brains – menu changes constantly though so just go with it
Click here to see the entire El Bulli meal, in order, Dish by Dish >>
Always Traveling: Paul Bocuse (Lyon, France)
Jeff Zalaznick — March 09, 2009
Paul Bocuse is not the easiest restaurant to find, but once you get it in your sights there is no way to miss this garish edifice. Bocuse has consistently maintained a prestigious 3-star Michelin rating since it opened in 1965, and as one of the first prominent public culinary icons, this chef’s legendary restaurant seemed like a logical starting point for our journey.
Restaurant: Paul Bocuse
Rating: *** (Michelin), #71 (World’s Best Restaurants List)
AlwaysHungry Grade: B-
Signature Dishes: Soupe aux Truffes Noires V.G.E (Black Truffle Soup), Volaille de Bresse en Vessie “Mére Fillioux” (Bresse Chicken cooked inside a Pig’s Bladder)
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Salade de Homard du Maine a la Parisienne (Parisian Lobster Salad) & Turbot au Champagne (Turbot in a Champagne Sauce)
Click to read the Dish By Dish >>
AlwaysPartying: 30 Inches of Fury
The Gluttoness — September 02, 2008
Being the birthplace of many a famous chef, it was only fitting that The French Culinary Institute took their Hot Dog Eating Contest to the next level. With a supreme panel of judges, golden t-shirts emblazoned with “Concours de Chien-Chaud” (Hot-Dog Contest in French), and homemade 30-inch dogs dubbed “30-Inches of Fury,” this was definitely going to be an eating event for the masses. Even Dorothy Hamilton showed up for the shindig, citing how the school’s amphitheater wasn’t even as crowded when Ferrán Adriá came for a demo! Nick Wong took the First Prize, receiving an unbelievable array of gift certificates to enjoy free gourmet meals at some of the city’s most-respected restaurants. And for the sake of hungry girls everywhere, Victoria Canonico was able to represent the women with an impressive third place finish. Good times were had by all, except those who participated—apparently the hot dog casings (i.e. fresh intestines) were chewy and prone to getting stuck in the contestants’ teeth. Even the winner might have to wait a bit before breaking into his Grand Prize.
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