Featured Restaurant: Le Gigot
GutterGourmet — August 30, 2010
Gigot d’Agneau aux Flageolet and Crème Brûlée at Le Gigot.
Enter Le Gigot. Içi Paris. The only things missing are the French accordion music and the mimes. Pick one of the 10 tiny bistro tables and you’ve abandoned Cornelia Street for the Left Bank
Featured Restaurant: ilili
Maryse Chevrière — August 25, 2010
Lamb Chops, seared with Za’atar Salsa Verde and Herb Roasted Tomatoes.
With the impending opening of game-changing, market-restaurant hybrid, Eataly, at the end of this month, a lot of attention has been devoted to the great things being planned by Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. But the focus on the neighborhood’s dining options reminded us of another Flatiron joint that deserves mention: ilili, Phillippe Massoud’s still-swank Mediterranean venture.
To start, there’s Hommus, of course, and Labne, a tangy strained yogurt— textbook examples of whipped and silky smooth, respectively. Tear a piece of the thin, warm puffed pita and attack unabashedly between sips of the signature Not-So Bloody Martini (or for something more floral, the From Manhattan to Beirut). The Mouhamara, a vibrant, nutty-textured mixture made from sun-dried pepper, walnuts, and pomegranate molasses comes highly recommended. With it you should order the leafy, parsley-heavy burghul Tabbouleh to add to the mix. All together it makes for wonderful grazing.
First Look: Dinner at Vandaag
Maryse Chevrière — August 12, 2010
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Top, Popped Barley, a fantastic snack being served at Vandaag in the East Village.
Before officially debuting their dinner menu today, East Village newbie, Vandaag, opened their doors to friends and family last night. Through the next-day aquavit and genever-induced haze, there are several things that stand out about the Dutch and Scandinavian-inspired restaurant.
First, clearly, the cocktail program rocks. Their beer cocktails have already gotten good play but equally interesting are those starring spirits in step with the restaurant’s style of cuisine. The B-Side Sling, made with Bols Genever, Roobis-infused vermouth, lemon, maraschino, and bitters, is more powerful than its feminine coloring suggests. This take on a Manhattan is great for sipping, but smooth enough to drink as a two-part shot for those who are inclined.
Featured Brunch: Joseph Leonard
Maryse Chevrière — July 30, 2010
Saucisson a L’Ail: Pork and Garlic Sausage, Fried Eggs, Hash Brown, Crème Fraîche and Arugula.
That on a recent Sunday three dishes had been 86’d from the brunch menu at Joseph Leonard (including the day’s special), says something about the restaurant’s weekend dining program: it’s popular.
But removing the Biscuits and Gravy, Croque Madame, and the Watermelon Salad, while disappointing, still leaves several tempting options. You can stick with the familiar— Lox on Rye, Brioche French Toast— or lean towards the more creative— Beef Tongue Corned Beef, Saucisson a L’Ail. The latter ($13) presents sausage and eggs perhaps not as you expected. The pork and garlic sausage is loose and terrine-like, delicately sliced and held together by a ghost casing. With it are two fried eggs and a fat nest of a hash brown with a super crunchy shell.
Featured Restaurant: Mama’s Food Shop
GutterGourmet — July 26, 2010
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Clockwise from top: Fried Chicken, Honey Roasted Carrots and Mac n’ Cheese, exterior.
I always wondered why Roger and JJ in the 70’s sitcoms, “What’s Happening!!” and “Good Times,” were so skinny when their mamas were so pleasantly plump. Clearly, they were missing out on some good cooking. (Maybe that’s why Rerun spent so much time at Roger’s house.) While no one behind the counter at Mama’s Food Shop on East 3rd off of Avenue B fits the description of those sitcom mamas, I always imagine that’s who is doing all the cooking there. The place literally drips with soul.
Featured Restaurant: South Brooklyn Pizza
GutterGourmet — July 19, 2010
A Margherita slice at South Brooklyn Pizza in the East Village.
I’ve devoted a large part of my life in search of great pizza. I don’t go around joking, or lightly declaring a “new greatest” pizza. But, I recently had a private tour with Jack, the pizzaiolo at the new South Brooklyn Pizzeria on First Avenue near 7th street, and folks, there’s a new greatest pizza in town.
Featured Dish: RUB’s Ham and Brie Burger
Maryse Chevrière — July 13, 2010
Ham and Brie Burger at RUB BBQ.
Yesterday was definitely an important day in the annals of New York burgerdom. After all, the hotly anticipated Shake Shack Theater District finally opened— three new awesome concretes, hello! But, it was also a Monday, which means these weren’t the only new burgers to anticipate. That’s right, we’re talking the RUB BBQ weekly burger special, and on last night’s menu: the Ham and Brie Burger.
What’s so exciting about a ham and Brie combination? After all, as far as sandwich stuffers go it’s pretty standard. Then again, who could have anticipated Goober and Butter Burgers being such big hits? Chef Scott Smith seems to have a predilection for funky, robust cheeses (the Bacon and Roaring Forties Blue Cheese Burger), because this was Brie with a presence.
The gooey, rind-on cheese was paired with house-cured ham that could easily pass as prosciutto—soft, salty, with a little pull. It’s a reminder that pork can indeed exist on top of a burger in a form other than crunchy bacon. All that and you still didn’t lose the flavor of the meat. Leads us to a familiar question: when can we anticipate the announcement of a stand-alone RUB burger joint? (Please?)
Featured Brunch: Vinegar Hill House
Arthur Bovino — July 02, 2010
Reuben Sanchez: braised corned beef, sharp Cheddar, Tomatillo-Jalapeño Jam.
Sometimes brunch is better on Saturday. Sometimes, it’s better to do the far end of the brunch stretch. If you don’t mind lounging in bed, wait and let that 11 o’clock start pass in favor of a 2 o’clock meal. On those occasions, one of the perfect brunches is at Vinegar Hill House in Brooklyn. Outside, inside, wherever you want, there’s less of a wait and the food is just as good.
Featured Restaurant: Khyber Pass
GutterGourmet — June 30, 2010
Lamb Shish Kebab with Tomatoes, Onions, and Brown Basmati Rice at Khyber Pass on St Mark’s Place.
If you’re like me, you organize your take-out menus by cuisine. If you’re a little more obsessive-compulsive, you might even alphabetize them. It helps with the following, nightly conversation about where to eat.
“Hey, honey, what kind of take-out do you want?” American? No. Japanese? Nope. Korean? Doesn’t cut it anymore. Mexican? Moroccan? Nah. Wait, I’ve got it. Pizza! Kidding. Just kidding. Recently, just as I was about to start over again, I noticed that I had missed something I had filed in the A’s: Afghani food.
Featured Brunch: Egg in a Nest at Penny Farthing
Maryse Chevrière — June 18, 2010
Egg in a Nest: Two Eggs served any style over Breaded Parmesan Toast with Home Fries.
For all the positive buzz about the antique-industrial design of the East Village newcomer, Penny Farthing, its menu has not garnered the same respect. But sometimes you have to test the baseline, and at brunch, that means the greatest hits— Eggs Benedict (of course), French Toast, Steak and Eggs, and a childhood favorite, Egg in a Nest.
Penny Farthing’s Egg in a Nest is a dish known by many aliases: Egg-in-a-Basket, Moon Egg, Bull’s Eye, and Egg-in-the-Hole. That’s just to name a few. Two eggs are served in a breaded Parmesan toast “nest.” You can appreciate the thinness of the buttery toast as a better vessel for soaking up that extra-runny yolk. Sure, the loose sprinkling of Parmesan could be slightly more heavy-handed, and more melted, but it adds a nice touch of salt when you do get those gooey, cheesy bites. This is by no means on the same playing field as ‘inoteca’s luscious, signature Truffled Egg Toast. Still, with a side of fruit and home fries, it can strike a homey, comfort dish chord.
Of course, with Ssäm Bar and Milk Bar literally up 13th Street, it may not be the most interesting brunch option in a neighborhood known for culinary diversity. But, if you’re in the mood for something classic and familiar, Penny Farthing fits the bill quite nicely.
Featured Brunch: Balaboosta
Maryse Chevrière — June 11, 2010
Coconut Brioche French Toast stuffed with Cream Cheese and served with Stewed Strawberries.
On a warm, summer Sunday afternoon, the SoHo-Nolita juncture at Mulberry Street can be frazzle-inducing. Throngs of bag-toting tourists weave down Broadway, a crowded street fair along the Little Italy main drag, the scene outside Balthazar. You’re hungry. You just want a quiet, no-need-to-wait brunch— a few small plates. For this, take refuge in Balaboosta, the young off-shoot from Taïm chef, Einat Admony, where familiar dishes are given the Middle Eastern treatment.
Featured Dessert: Churros at Barmarché
Maryse Chevrière — June 08, 2010
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Raffa’s Cinnamon & Sugar Churros with Butter Pecan Gelato.
After a big meal, there’s the dessert you order just to pick at, and then there’s the dessert so fantastic you end up finishing before remembering that you weren’t hungry in the first place. At Barmarché in NoLita, that I’m-not-going-to-regret-this-decision dessert is Raffa’s Cinnamon & Sugar Churros.
Their smell invades as they near— fat, cinnamon and sugar coated, log cabin-stacked churros. The crisp ridges give you that Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal throwback, but the dough inside is soft and cakey.
For a dessert that is usually improved by a dipping sauce, these churros can easily stand alone. Still, you should try them with the cool, caramel sauce— a welcome alternative to the now standard warm chocolate sauce. And while there’s nothing wrong with the usual accompaniment, it’s warm out now, and there’s also a very good butter pecan gelato on the side to be enjoyed.
Featured Restaurant: Traif
Arthur Bovino — June 07, 2010
Pork Belly Confit, Lentils, Artichokes, Tomato Marmalade, and Moroccan Whiskey Cocktail at Traif in Williamsburg.
Just when you thought this let’s-hang-yarn-from-a-window-and-take-photos-of-it-from-the-sidewalk neighborhood couldn’t give you yet another storyline there it is. Unkosher food nonpareil on the edge of Satmar territory from a Jewish chef with experience at Eleven Madison Park and Le Bernardin. The south labeled streets’ most recent newcomer, Traif, makes good on its name— and man, is it good.
Featured Brunch: Maialino’s Pesce Spada Affumicato
Maryse Chevrière — June 04, 2010
Pesce Spada Affumicato at Maialino.
Smoked fish, cream, onion, toast— a combination familiar to New York’s brunch scene. But at the Gramercy darling, Maialino, the concept is given fresh legs Italian-style: Pesce Spada Affumicato.
The customary lox is replaced with smoked swordfish that is clean and simple, like a breakfast crudo. The fish is mild but with a meatier texture than you would expect for such a thin slice. It’s a plate that begs for do-it-yourself construction. A shmear of smooth robiolina on thin, chewy toast, swordfish on top of that, finished with a tart sliver of pickled red onion. A side of bitter greens, well-dressed with a splash of acid, helps you slow down and keep pace between bites.
Featured Brunch: Yerba Buena Perry
Maryse Chevrière — May 28, 2010
Sandwich Cubano at Yerba Buena Perry.
The brunch menu at Julian Medina’s Yerba Buena Perry presents you with that problem-you-want-to-have situation of too many good-sounding dishes to chose from. On it you’ll find brunch staples tweaked with Latin flavors— Cachapa Benedict with Serrano Ham over a Sweet Corn Cake, French Toast with Manchego Dulce de Leche. But, there are also familiar classics like Churros, Huevos Rancheros, and a Cuban Sandwich. The solution? Arrive hungry and over-order.
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