Featured Restaurant: Carteles at Cienfuegos

GutterGourmet — March 08, 2010

The Cubano Cristo at Carteles.

Carteles at Cienfuegos just opened, but it’s already serving one of New York’s best new sandwiches.

That’s right, there is a new authentic Cubano for New Yorkers to celebrate. Carteles (E. 6th St, just west of Ave. A) is named for a Cuban magazine whose covers are the Havana equivalent of The New Yorker. It is a serious Cuban coffee shop that sells Café Cubanos, Cortaditos, Espumitas, and Chino Latinos (a Café Cubano with salt) made with Café Bustelo, the unrivaled king of Cuban coffee. There are five sandwiches including a Sloppy Joe, and the Pechuga (grilled chicken). But the stars are the Cubanos.

More About Carteles' Cubanos >>

Featured Dish: Rustica Pizza

Arthur Bovino — March 08, 2010

Clockwise from top: Manducatis Rustica’s Rustica Pizza. The fireplace at the back of the dining room.

Manducatis has been a Long Island City stalwart almost uninterrupted since 1959. No one is saying it’s the City’s best Italian. But there is still something fun about walking through its non-descript door and into the cascading dining rooms that each feel like secrets. Development may have infiltrated Long Island City, but Manducatis’ owners, the Cerbones, have made their own progress in the past two years. Namely, when their daughter, Chef Gianna Cerbone opened her Italian café nearby: Manducatis Rustica.

There is a doll-house, but thrown together quality to Rustica’s decor. An old oven. Mismatching chairs. Brick walls. There’s a large open doorway to the kitchen. The layout takes a cue from Manducatis, with a working fireplace in the back of the first dining room.

You may have heard about their celebrated calzone, a sauce-covered $15.00 behemoth described as “a pizza folded over on itself.” But there’s also a list of brick oven, Neapolitan-style pizzas. The eponymous pizza pie, the Rustica ($13.00), is dressed with goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, and a healthy pile of fresh arugula. The dough is chewy and pliable, if not necessarily very crisp. You could see how it would make for a good calzone. For dessert, there’s fresh gelato, and cannolis done the right way— plain or chocolate-dipped, but filled to order. Now that’s Italian…American.

Restaurant: Manducatis Rustica
Address: 46-33 Vernon Boulevard, Long Island City, NY 11101
Contact: (718) 937-1312
Hours: Mon-Thur, 12:00pm-9:00pm; Fri-Sat, 12:00pm-10:30pm; Sun, 12:00pm-8:30pm.

AlwaysInvestigating: X-Tudo Burger

Arthur Bovino — March 08, 2010

Cross-section of the X-Tudo Burger at New York Pão de Queijo in Astoria, Queens.

Any sandwich whose name begins with an ‘X,’ especially a sandwich that is Brazilian, deserves attention. That goes double when that X is followed by ‘tudo,’ which means ‘everything’ in Portuguese. Many of Brazil’s snack bars serve a version of the X-Tudo, which is a cheeseburger with many toppings. While New York has its own non-Brazilian, topping-towering burgers (the Sunburnt Cow’s Burger with the Lot for one), finding one with South American flare is more difficult. One place where you can find the X-Tudo is New York Pão de Queijo (left) in Astoria.

More about the X-Tudo >>

Featured Dish: Bereket’s Doner Kebab

GutterGourmet — March 04, 2010

Bereket’s Doner Kebab with the works.

It is late at night. You’re on East Houston. You stroll past Yonah Schimmel’s Knishes, then by Russ & Daughters. You stagger in the door, and tip the counter man who slices the perfectly spiced meat and overstuffs a sandwich for you. The bread disintegrates, unable to contain the mountain of meat inside. No, not Katz’s Romanian influenced pastrami on rye, I’m talking about the Doner Kebab on pita at Bereket Turkish Kebab House.

The lamb-beef fusion is covered with hot sauce and cacik, a Turkish yogurt sauce, which is runnier than its thicker Greek cousin, tzatziki. The meat, which is only a little bit thicker than prosciutto, absorbs their flavor the way pastrami soaks up Jewish deli mustard. The countermen expertly alternate the meat with tomatoes and onions inside the grilled pita before applying the red and white sauces.

The Turkish Doner is distinct though similar to the Greek gyro and the Middle Eastern shawarma. Basically they all involve lamb and/or beef rotated on a spit with the roasted meat sliced by hand and stuffed into pita bread with various vegetables and condiments. Perhaps if we set a long enough table and served all three (and threw in some Jewish pastrami for good measure) we could bring peace to the Middle East, or at least a helluva party to the Lower East Side.

Featured Dish: Sushi Zen’s Omakase in a Bowl

GutterGourmet — March 02, 2010

Bara Chirashi “Sushi Zen Style.”

Sushi Zen is on my list of Top 10 sushi bars in the City, and Chef Toshio Suzuki is a master. The omakase is always unique, amazing, and…expensive. For a somewhat more reasonable alternative without sacrificing the variety of the omakase, order the Bara (literally “little things”) Chirashi.

For $55 you get a large bowl of some of the finest sushi rice you’ll ever taste, delicious fresh wasabi that is cleverly tucked into the underside of the bowl’s lid (placed next to you), and special shoyu sauce to season with. On top of that there is, now take a deep breath: Fatty Blue Fin Tuna, Giant Clam, Salmon, Octopus, Silver Shad, Salmon Roe, Cooked Tuna, Squid, Tomago, Shrimp, assorted pickled vegetables, with Uni placed delicately in the center.

As fresh, sweet, and zesty as the wasabi is, you don’t really need any. There is already so much natural flavor from the high quality fish, and the seasoned rice with sesame seeds at the bottom of the bowl. Each flat wooden spoonful of the Bara Chirashi is wonderfully different in texture and taste. It’s a veritable omakase in a bowl. On a recent occasion the lady next to me asked, “Is all of that for you, or are you planning to share that with the entire restaurant?” As if that weren’t enough, the Bara Chirashi comes with an intensely flavored light or dark (your choice) Miso Namako Mushroom Soup or Miso Asari Clam Soup, the latter filled with delectable clams floating, still in their shells, in the soup.

There is perhaps no better time to enjoy Bara Chirashi. In Japan, March 3rd marks Hinamatsuri, an annual festival celebrated with ornamental dolls. Meals prepared for the festival often consist of chirashi and clam broth (though the chirashi can vary by region). Of course, you don’t need an excuse.

Featured Restaurant: T-Poutine

GutterGourmet — February 23, 2010

Clockwise from top: Classic Poutine, Cochonnet Sandwich, Exterior.

New York’s poutine scene. Always Hungry has done a poutine tasting in Brooklyn, covered the fabulous smoky meat version at Mile End, and sampled Hotel Griffou’s duck confit-covered gourmet rendition. Of course, the ultimate is the foie gras-covered poutine at Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal. But French fries covered with cheese curds, all smothered with brown gravy, “Classic” poutine, that’s the best bet at T-Poutine on Ludlow.

Click for More Poutine >>

Featured Dish: This Way, This Way

Arthur Bovino — February 22, 2010

This Little Piggy’s This Way Sandwich: Roast Beef, Cheez Whiz, and Au Jus on an Egg Roll.

Good News/Bad News on This Little Piggy Had Roast Beef brought word of an unlisted mash-up called the “F&*^ It” rounding out the effectively brief menu. But a few things went unmentioned.

This Way, That Way, and The Other Thing >>

Featured Dish: Berliner Brat Burger

GutterGourmet — February 08, 2010

Clockwise from top: Berliner Brat Burger, Freakin Deal, and a Bratwurst.

Rolf Babiel has been missed since he passed last October, but thankfully, his brother Wolfgang carries on the Hallo Berlin cart tradition. I spent many a day on the corner of Fifth and 54th, waiting for my order to be ready— one of the great combination specials, often the ‘Dr. Atkins,’ or the ‘Churchill.’ Then there’s the ‘Freakin Deal,’ a wurst with onions, potato salad, and a warm crusty roll— a freakin’ deal indeed for $4.00. I loved to eat from an overflowing paper tray at one of the little folding counters on either side of the cart while watching Rolf slice the wursts and throw fresh ones on the grill.

But it’s a little cold for standing around outside, so lately I’ve taken to visiting Hallo Berlin Express on 9th Ave and 50th St. It has given me occasion to enjoy a sandwich that has not been given enough attention— the Triple B.

The Berliner Brat Burger is served on toasted bread with horseradish mustard and a pickle ($5.00). As the name suggests, it’s actually not so much a burger, as it is a salty, porky sausage in burger form. The one problem you encounter is that the bread doesn’t hold up to the juicy patty and its other toppings: rotwein, sauerkraut, and sautéed onions. But that won’t matter much when you down it while quaffing one of the German drafts they have on hand.

Featured Dish: Corsino’s Spiedini

Arthur Bovino — January 28, 2010

Tuna And Sweetbreads Spiedini with Capers and Lemon.

Spiedini, the Italian word for skewered, grilled foods, have long been a popular item at Jason Denton’s ‘inoteca’s, and at his new restaurant, Corsino, he has taken things to the next level. It’s surf and turf spiedini: Tuna And Sweetbreads.

There’s a big red center in each large cube of tuna, and a sweetbread that has been cut in half. They sit on a light zig-zag-drizzled sauce with charred capers (a tad bitter) and lemon. Somewhere between bites of sweetbread and tuna, the light, flaky texture of the sweetbread creates a little flavor disorientation— “Wait, am I eating fish?” — but there’s nothing confusing about wanting a second plate ($16.00).

More On Corsino's Spiedini >>

Featured Dish: August’s Lamb Belly

Maryse Chevrière — January 21, 2010

Kleftiko of Lamb Belly: Grilled Lamb Belly, Tzatziki, and Black Sesame from August.

Pork belly has had its time—we’re ready for a new belly. Call it a hunch, but we think the next belly to make a flop is going to be lamb belly.

The surge has yet to begin, but if you want a sneak preview of a trend in the making, head over to August, where they are already celebrating this great ingredient. The restaurant’s Kleftiko of Lamb Belly is a most welcome alternative for those suffering from pork belly exhaustion.

The tender, fall-off-the-bone meat is at turns creamy and shredded like pulled pork. A crust of black sesame seeds (warning: potential date dish nightmare) adds powerful toasted notes and texture. A cool tzatziki acts as a loose sauce for the bed of vegetable spaghetti that props up the piece of belly. The flavor of the meat strikes a Goldie Locks-like balance of being pronounced without being overwhelming.

Featured Dish: Maialino’s Burrata

Arthur Bovino — January 20, 2010

Burrata at Maialino.

Today, Sam Sifton reviewed Maialino. We agree with much of what he said, including nods to the salumi, tripe and Chicken alla Diavola. Not mentioned, however, were some of the restaurant’s strong protein dishes like the Veal T-bone and Braised Lamb, as well as an excellent burrata appetizer. And, what dish could be more perfect to mention given it’s National Cheese Lovers Day?

Executive chef, Nick Anderer, said Maialino’s “legit, real-deal burrata,” is flown straight from Puglia. They get it through Lou DiPalo of DiPalo Selects, who Anderer said they use “almost as a purchaser.” Along with Marea’s Nova Scotia Lobster with Burrata, and the Burrata Pizza special at Kesté, Maialino’s is another incredible rendition worth seeking out.

“It’s a buffalo milk mozzarella casing,” said Chef Anderer, “the inside is buffalo cream with buffalo stracciata, torn shreds of buffalo milk cheese soaked in buffalo cream. When it’s cut open it’s like a buffalo milk stracciatella.”

There’s not much more to it. “We put it on a plate and we put some Marcelli olive oil on it.” Well, that’s not completely true, there’s a scattering of Maldon salt and fresh ground black pepper.

You will only find the burrata on Friday or Saturday, when it arrives. Any fan of this type of cheese won’t be disappointed. When cut, it oozes and spreads out to fill the gap. Each bite has a creamy tang accented with a light bitterness of olive oil. It’s the kind of dish that when it’s gone, the first thing you look for is bread to mop up the film on the bottom of the plate.

Featured Dish: Co.’s Honshimeji & Guanciale Pie

Maryse Chevrière — January 13, 2010

Company’s Honshimeji & Guanciale Pizza.

The pies at Co. certainly haven’t been want for coverage, but with the constant flurry of artisanal pizza news in New York, it can be difficult to keep up. Here’s an item that may be under your radar: the Honshimeji & Guanciale Pizza.

The pie features the Co. classic charred, blistered crust and a creamy layer of garlicky béchamel. The surface is punctuated by thin shavings of guanciale, tiny Honshimeji button mushrooms that become roasted in the oven, and the real star— four sunny-side up quail eggs. This is a restaurant that understands the best way to put eggs on a pizza: one per slice. The perfectly executed runny yolk breaks upon your first bite (brunch places take note). You get to play the game of angling the slice so that it gets evenly distributed as a secondary sauce.

Featured Dish: Havoc Burger

GutterGourmet — January 11, 2010

Patty & Bun’s Havoc Burger.

Patty & Bun is one of the latest entrants to New York’s burger wars. An attractive bar on W. 8th Street next to Gray’s Papaya, P&B distinguishes itself from the rest of the burger crowd by wreacking havoc on our conception of the traditional burger. While P&B’s burgers have been written up, some of the more interesting sandwiches on the menu, like a Monk Fish BLT, The Caddy Patty (“biko vakra” beef patty topped with shredded braised duck and shiitakes), and the Havoc Burger haven’t gotten as much attention. We visited recently to check out the latter.

Cross-section of the Havoc Burger.

The Havoc Burger (deluxe, $15) forces you to redefine what makes a great burger. There’s the unorthodox, so-called “tequila drop bun” (not spicy, but chewy like a kaiser roll), which stands up nicely to the juicy burger, the condiments (Portale-piled-high chimichurri and pickled Napa red cabbage), and a meat blend that could confuse even Pat LaFrieda: beef, lamb and pork. American cheese and ketchup are not only unnecessary here, they’re unthinkable add-ons to this unique burger.

While the bun holds together nicely, this isn’t the kind of burger you’re going to want to put down— the sauce drips everywhere. This is great flavor-wise, but it also adds moisture to a patty that the restaurant makes sure to cook all the way through because of the pork mixed in.

Featured Dish: The Gargiulo

Arthur Bovino — November 23, 2009

Top, the Gargiulo, Brennan & Carr’s Burger Smothered w/Roast Beef and Cheese, in a “half-cup” of broth. Left, back in the day (courtesy, brennanandcarr.kpsearch.com). Right, Brennan & Carr, presently.

“Hot Beef.”

There’s little new about Brennan & Carr in Gravesend, Brooklyn. The squat, roadside beefeteria has been doing its thing since 1938: roast beef in a setting where if you squint, it could be a Revolutionary War era tavern. The roof’s sign says most of what you need to know. The rest is application: hot beef broth, hot beef burger, hot roast beef, hot beef burger topped with hot roast beef and cheese.

The roast beef is cheap and tasty, the fries are fine, and the frank tastes like the kind of dog you’d get at a beer hall. Of the other items, the onion rings are the most notable (a Burger King like exterior, but they’re bigger). But it’s all about the Gargiulo ($5.90), a “burger smothered in roast beef” and cheese. With all the burger newcomers to New York City, it pays to remember a classic. The Gargiulo, waiters explain, was named for the employees of the Coney Island Italian stalwart, Gargiulo’s Restaurant, frequent customers who concocted the sandwich.

If you haven’t been, don’t be confused, while the Gargiulo is on the take-out window menu, it’s not on the placemat menu. Don’t be deceived by its appearance either. Like most sandwiches (most everything actually) at Brennan & Carr (view), the Gargiulo requires dipping in a “half-cup” of the blister-your-mouthroof-hot-jus, which doubles as an incredibly tasty, very beefy Beef Broth Soup.

The process goes like this. Cut burger in half. Dunk. Pause. Soak. Wait. Wait. Okay, eat. There’s an infusion of flavor, the meat goes soft and juicy, the onions seem sweeter, the cheese gets all melty Kraft Single-like, and the bread turns into a moist kaiser sponge filled with flavor. It’s like a riff on French Onion Soup, American-style, with a burger sitting in it.

Remember, if you don’t do the dunk, you’ve missed the point.

Click Here for More Beautiful Pictures of the Food at Brennan & Carr >>

AlwaysInformed: Norma’s Breakfast Dumplings

Arthur Bovino — November 06, 2009

Breakfast Dumplings at Norma’s in Le Parker Meridien.

It happened at Norma’s (view) and it could have been epic, the meeting of two all-time favorite things: Breakfast and Dumplings. There they were under “Eggs Cellent” on the menu: Breakfast Dumplings Stuffed with Scrambled Egg, Shrimp and Mushroom.

They even looked promising when they arrived: six plump dumplings in a bamboo steamer basket. The disappointing reality wasn’t something to be ordered again: run-of-the-mill scrambled eggs, but served inside dumplings, and for $22.00. It really even wasn’t worth eating a second one. They needed some salt, some fire, something.

There are those ideas that you just have to categorize under, “it seemed like a good idea at the time.” After all, that’s the counterbalance for the unorthodox dish that succeeds. And when you run into something that doesn’t work you can comfort yourself by knowing that eating it had to be done and that at least at Le Parker Meridien there’s an easy solution to put you back in a good mood: Burger Joint.