Featured Dish: D’Artagnan’s Mangalitsa Ham
GutterGourmet — August 18, 2010
Mangalitsa from Grace’s Marketplace, now imported by D’Artagnan.
Did you celebrate the legal importation of Jamón Ibérico Bellota? Have you too broken the law with smuggled Culatello di Zibello? Well, there’s a new pig in town. As recently noted in The Times, D’Artagnan is now importing and distributing Mangalitsa ham. The wooly, Hungarian Mangalica, or Mangalitsa, is literally a pig in sheep’s clothing. We sampled a preview at last year’s Oktoberfest at Klee Brasserie in Chef Daniel Angerer’s porky strudel, but had to taste the new stuff.
Cured in Spain, Mangalitsa is very similar to the Ibérico. At $80/lb, it might be described as a “poor man’s Ibérico,” as Ibérico sliced a mano can fetch twice that price. The fat of the Mangalitsa is not as redolent of the oil of nuts as the Bellota, which is only used to describe the Iberian hogs nourished on acorns. The Mangalitsa’s diet consists of barley, wheat, corn, soybean, and grass. This doesn’t produce the same meltingly-fatty marbling as the Ibérico Bellota.
We recently sampled a ¼lb of Mangalitsa ($20), and can report that it was good, though not Ibérico good. In fairness, this Mangalitsa was not bone-in, and was machine sliced. Hand-slicing would undoubtedly improve the texture. Still, it’s a welcome addition to New York’s growing charcuterie obsession. The ham is available at Grace’s Marketplace, which by the way is as close to the original Balducci’s as you can get (Grace was Balducci’s daughter).
Location: Grace’s Marketplace
Address: 1237 3rd Avenue (at 71st St)
Contact: (212) 737-0600
Hours: Mon-Fri 7:00AM-8:30PM, Sat & Sun 8:00AM-7:00PM
Featured Dish: Kesté’s Insalata Pizza Sandwich
Arthur Bovino — August 11, 2010
A quarter cross-section of Kesté‘s Pizza & Vino’s Pizza insalata.
Last June, when Grub Street reported on the pizza wallet at Kesté Pizza & Vino, aka the Portfolio, we took note with excitement— the Neapolitan pie goes portable! But we measured the ‘Neapolitan’ equivalent of New York’s street slice against the original with mixed results. While they tasted good, wallets made with regular Kesté pies (they wouldn’t make minis), with toppings and without, eaten crust or tip first, either burst open or devolved into a mess of bread and cheese. Whether you were sitting or walking, it was a fail. A new innovation at Kesté, the Pizza Sandwich, had more promise.
Featured Dish: RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger
Arthur Bovino — August 03, 2010
RUB BBQ’s Donut Burger.
At the risk of writing about all things RUB BBQ, all the time, we bring you last night’s regional burger special: the Donut Burger. That’s right. They went there. A classic RUB Burger featuring cheese, pickles, and onions, but on a donut. As it was sans bacon, it wasn’t quite a Luther Burger (named for the late Luther Vandross), but it was damn tasty.
The last Krispy Kreme donut shop in New York City, the Penn Station branch, has a sign up that says, “Temporarily Closed,” so RUB’s owner, Andrew Fischel, went with Glazed Donuts from Dunkin’ Donuts. It started us thinking about the next step, a double Luther Burger: donut half, burger, bacon, donut half, burger, bacon, donut half. What? Why are you looking at me funny?
Featured Dish: RUB’s Ham and Brie Burger
Maryse Chevrière — July 13, 2010
Ham and Brie Burger at RUB BBQ.
Yesterday was definitely an important day in the annals of New York burgerdom. After all, the hotly anticipated Shake Shack Theater District finally opened— three new awesome concretes, hello! But, it was also a Monday, which means these weren’t the only new burgers to anticipate. That’s right, we’re talking the RUB BBQ weekly burger special, and on last night’s menu: the Ham and Brie Burger.
What’s so exciting about a ham and Brie combination? After all, as far as sandwich stuffers go it’s pretty standard. Then again, who could have anticipated Goober and Butter Burgers being such big hits? Chef Scott Smith seems to have a predilection for funky, robust cheeses (the Bacon and Roaring Forties Blue Cheese Burger), because this was Brie with a presence.
The gooey, rind-on cheese was paired with house-cured ham that could easily pass as prosciutto—soft, salty, with a little pull. It’s a reminder that pork can indeed exist on top of a burger in a form other than crunchy bacon. All that and you still didn’t lose the flavor of the meat. Leads us to a familiar question: when can we anticipate the announcement of a stand-alone RUB burger joint? (Please?)
AlwaysInvestigating: Sandwich Planet’s Napalm Burger
GutterGourmet — June 23, 2010
The Napalm Burger at Sandwich Planet, with a cross-section.
Recently, we profiled the Hellfire Slice. Today, we’re turning up the heat by reviewing Sandwich Planet’s Napalm Burger. Because of its location near the edge of the known solar system (the entrance to the Lincoln Tunnel on 9th Avenue and 39th), stumbling upon Sandwich Planet can be like discovering Pandora. In lieu of Unobtainium, Sandwich Planet fulfills our species’ need for sandwiches and variety.
Featured Dish: Cervelles au Beurre Noir
GutterGourmet — June 02, 2010
Cervelles au Beurre Noir at La Lunchonette.
I’m probably the only person who watches Return of the Living Dead and wonders whether I’m missing out on some good eats. The zombie predilection for brains over other parts of the human anatomy is not easily explainable. However, if done with a classic beurre noir sauce with cepes, those zombies may be on to something. Returning to an old favorite on 10th Avenue, La Lunchonette, I was delighted to see the cervelles— calves’ brains— listed as one of the chalkboard specials.
The beurre noir is not really black, but a brown butter sauce. The brains are not dissimilar in taste or texture to sweetbreads, though creamier. Naturally, they’re wrinkled and folded, but they’re also delicious enough to satisfy any monstrous craving. If brains seem a bit much to swallow, try watching Michael Jackson’s Thriller video to stimulate your appetite— works for me.
Featured Dish: Chorizo Sopes at Hecho en Dumbo
Arthur Bovino — May 19, 2010
.jpg)
Sopes de Chorizo at Hecho en Dumbo.
Hecho En Dumbo’s move to the Bowery automatically meant one thing, greater ease to get to one of its signature dishes, something that’s long been Always Hungry recommended: Sopes de Chorizo.
Featured Dish: Chimbori Jalwa at Tamarind Tribeca
Maryse Chevrière — May 18, 2010
Chimbori Jalwa, a new appetizer at Tamarind Tribeca.
Think appetizers at an Indian restaurant and your mind might automatically go to samosas, chutneys, and roti with raita. Not wrong, but at the recently opened Tamarind Tribeca, there is another dish worth ordering to join these menu standard-bearers: Chimbori Jalwa.
A new menu addition that is unique to the TriBeCa location, the dish ($14.00) presents fresh lump crab meat molded into a short-stack cylindrical tower, like a crust-less crab cake with Indian spices.
Mixed with ginger and garlic, and tinted with Madras curry powder, there’s a sweet heat from the introduction of green chilies. It stays on the tip of your tongue and matches the sweetness of the crab. Scattered kernels of corn and sliced scallions add texture, and there are two spice-charred breadsticks available for munching— a muted balance to the intensely flavored dish.
Featured Dish: Wasabi Shumai at Yama 17
Arthur Bovino — May 13, 2010
Wasabi Shumai at Yama 17.
Putting aside the proper or authentic way of eating wasabi, let’s discuss the eat wasabi, pound the wall, lab-rat-reaches-for-electrocuting-cheese approach to it. If you’ve found yourself doing that more times than you can remember, there’s a shumai for you. The Wasabi Shumai at the Irving Place sushi joint, Yama 17, just blocks from Union Square.
At first glance, the five shumai that come per order ($7.50) don’t look like much. They’re a tad larger than typical dumplings with wasabi-flavored skins the color of light green parchment paper. Usually when you eat a bit too much wasabi, it takes a few seconds for that breath of fire to rush up through your nasal passage to send your brain tingling. The brain-on-needles effect is almost immediate, you don’t even need to close your mouth, and you’re already hitting the table, or at least clenching a fist.
You get the same result whether or not you dip the dumplings in soy sauce. The moment passes. You reach for another. As Eisenberg’s sign says, “Either you get it or you don’t.”
Featured Dish: Triomphe’s Scallops in Foie Gras Butter
GutterGourmet — May 12, 2010
Scallops with Porcini Mushroom and Foie Gras Butter.
Though overshadowed by its neighbor, DB Bistro Moderne and its infamous $32.00, foie gras-stuffed Original db Burger, Triomphe, the French restaurant tucked into the Iroquois Hotel, has a similarly luxe signature dish: Chef Steven Zobel’s Scallops with Porcini Mushrooms and Foie Gras Butter.
Featured Dish: Faustina’s Strozzapreti
Maryse Chevrière — May 10, 2010
Faustina’s Strozzapreti with Suckling Pig Ragu.
Anticipation for the opening of Porchetta master Sara Jenkins’ forthcoming East Village pasta house has been running high. And while the chef has only spoken of plans to include simple favorites like spaghetti with tomato sauce, one neighborhood restaurant is already serving a dish that meets the porchetta pasta bill: Faustina’s Strozzapreti with Suckling Pig Ragu.
Fresh, handmade pasta, loosely twisted, slicked and glistening with salty pork fat. Fans familiar with Scott Conant’s pomodoro pedigree might expect a tomato-based ragù— not so, and with this, the chef proves himself equally adept. Besides, anything but the hunks of moist, shredded suckling pig would be a distraction. Focus, and search for the crunchy morsels of crackling, as those make the best bites.
Featured Dish: Tuna Ribs at Kanoyama
Arthur Bovino — May 06, 2010
Nakaochi (Tuna Ribs) at Kanoyama.
The Japanese tradition of frying bones may be hot right now, but it’s not the only presentation of bones worth celebrating. Take for example, Nakaochi— an off-the-menu rite of passage dish at Kanoyama, the popular East Village sushi spot.
Featured Dish: Colicchio & Sons’ Burger
Maryse Chevrière — April 29, 2010
The Burger at Colicchio & Sons served in the Tap Room is topped with Pecorino and Balsamic Onions.
If you’re dining in the Tap Room at Colicchio & Sons, and looking for a dish with a seasonal nod, get the Tripe and Ramp Pizza. But if you’re looking for a meat fix, order the Burger with Balsamic Onions, and Pecorino. Bite into it and you’re reminded that not long ago the restaurant was home to chef Tom Colicchio’s steakhouse, craftsteak. This is a “Beef, it’s what’s for dinner” (or lunch) burger.
Featured Dish: Ikura & Ankimo at 15 East
Jeff Zalaznick — April 20, 2010
A special dish of Ankimo & Ikura at 15 East.
Everytime I eat at 15 East, Masato Shimizu has the power to blow me away with the freshness of his fish, and the way he straddles the traditional, and the creative in such an elegant fashion. On my last visit he changed the game. He married two of my all-time favorite sushi ingredients, Ankimo (Monkfish Liver) and Ikura (Salmon Roe). Both were perfect examples of the ingredients, and the flavors melded to create a very exciting flavor explosion. How could it be that both Ankimo and Ikura had been in my sushi repertoire for so long and never met? Life-changing.
Featured Dish: Kurage
GutterGourmet — April 19, 2010
Kurage Sashimi at Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar.
You think you’ve seen it all— massaged octopus, sea urchin, raw lobster, giant snail, monkfish liver, flying fish roe, abalone. But have you checked kurage off your list?
If not, head over to Blue Ribbon Sushi— the original in SoHo, or the one in Park Slope, either one— and order kurage. It resembles orange, translucent, shredded cabbage. Animal or vegetable you ask? “Jellyfish” the itamae will inform you politely. Jellyfish marinated in a soy vinegar with bits of cucumber (sunomono). Served gunkan, battleship-style, or as sashimi cupped in cucumber, kurage has a pleasing, crunchy-yet-chewy texture.
Remember all those times on the beach as a kid when the lifeguards yelled, “Jellyfish! Get out of the water!” They were probably just those little transparent, relatively harmless jellyfish, but there you’d be, trying to repress that childhood phobia of being stung by a giant Portuguese Man O’War. And that was it, with the lifeguard’s call, your day in the water would be ruined. Well, now all these years later, you can sip a box of cold daiginjo sake at the sushi bar, and relish your revenge.
<< Back to Thought For Food
"Unleash Your Inner Fat Kid."
Whet your appetite with a daily dose of AlwaysHungry's Thought for Food. We provide content that will improve your knowledge of food, and that will enhance your experiences with food. We do not write industry gossip.
Always Hungry Newsletter
