James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

AlwaysPartying: LUCKYRICE Party at Fatty ‘Cue

Clockwise from top: Smoked Beef Brisket, The ‘Cue Cocktail, Chef Daniel Boulud and Pit Master Robbie Richter dig into the ‘cue.

When Daniel Boulud tastes your barbecue, then asks where he should go to buy a smoker for his father’s backyard in France, you know you’re doing something right.

Reports were that Fatty ‘Cue, this most eagerly anticipated restaurant, had quietly opened to the public last Friday, though it was insisted at last night’s LUCKYRICE Festival media preview party that the joint had actually only officially opened the day before. Sure, there had been a long wait. Yes, Fatty Crab Upper West Side had their one year anniversary before the opening. And yes, pit master, Robbie Richter noted that after all this time, some of the original dishes they’d come up with had come and gone. That having been said, last night’s tastes were a harbinger good things to come.

Out back, Robbie carved hunks of low-and-slow smoked brisket that was moist, integrated with fat, and sealed with a ring of charred crust. A bowl of hot chili paste materialized and things got even better. A slick, sweet-heat chili oil arrived, and a crowd formed. There were ribs, of course, pork and lamb. The first was sweet and cindery, the second, sticky and tender, with jerky-like skin and a creamy garlic-lemon emulsion.

A thinly sliced pork loin, like a superior deli meat, inspired visions of potentially wonderful sandwiches. Non-meat items made cameos. A ramen-esque Bowl of Noodles, and better yet— bowls of small clams swimming in a heat-packed broth best enjoyed after it soaked into pieces of thick toast.

The cocktail situation was on-point too. A classic Dark & Stormy, the suggestive Foreplay cocktail, and most notably, the namesake ‘Cue, which was as hot as the restaurant is bound to be.

More Photographs from Fatty 'Cue >>

AlwaysPartying: Fatty Crab UWS Turns One

Clockwise from top: Lamb Breast Sandwich with Lemon-Garlic Emulsion from Fatty ‘Cue, the scene at the bar at Fatty Crab UWS, T-Shirt from the upcoming Fatty ‘Cue.

Last night the Fatty boys celebrated the one year anniversary of Fatty Crab UWS in full-flavored fashion. Among the bites and booze flowing there were previews of two Fatty ‘Cue cocktails (The ‘Cue and the Hunter S) and three dishes. The bartenders worked furiously to send out Fatty cocktails like the Chupacabra, the Dark & Stormy, and the Fat & Dirty, with champagne bottles at the ready. “Maybe save those for later?” someone suggested. “When’s later?” flew back the response with a smile.

Speaking of later, what about the ever-elusive Fatty ‘Cue opening date? Three days? Three weeks? Three months? Rumors floated among the packed revelers in the dining room, but in the VIP room (the doorway to the kitchen) the guys could be overheard being more concerned (at least for the night) with the next round of Malpeque oyster shooters, and making sure that drinks were being distributed en masse to party-goers who were having trouble bellying up to the bar. Whenever the opening is, we’ll be there to get some more of that lamb breast sandwich.

More Fatty 'Cue Preview Photographs >>

AlwaysInformed: Cabrito’s Border Dogs

From top left, clockwise, Cabrito’s Border Dogs: Sonora Dog, Danger Dog and Lucha Libre Dog.

Cabrito (view) really knows how to use the flat-screen TVs they recently installed. No NY1 on these bad boys— they’re reserved for specialty events like Mexican Lucha Libre, the World Cup, and for now, football. Given Chef David Schuttenberg’s new promotional menu for his football parties, the combination of food and flat-screens may make this your new favorite Sunday hangout, especially if you enjoy eating while watching the game, but are tired of snacking on junk while surrounded by drunken frat boys at sports bars. Schuttenberg’s line of “Border Dogs” coincides with the ongoing hot dog craze, but it was his time in Tucson, Arizona (and a recent NPR article, The Sonoran Hotdog Crosses The Border), which inspired him to recreate the “Mexicanized” Sonora-style dogs.

Schuttenberg balances the Cabrito/Fatty profile (read: spicy/funky) with the regional flavors of Mexico. As per Sonoran custom, the dogs are wrapped in bacon. At Cabrito, Nathan’s (“because they’re New York”) are wrapped in bacon, Fatty ‘Cue’s smoked coriander bacon. Then they’re deep-fried. Rather than the dense, traditional bolio, Schuttenberg uses Martin’s Long Potato Rolls, which he coats in lardo then griddles. Each of the three border dogs ($8.00/each) are distinct. For him, the “Sonora Dog” represents home, the “Danger Dog” is about being a badass, and “Lucha Libre” is pure, artery-clogging gluttony.

Click Here for the Dog-by-Dog Pictures >>

AlwaysInformed: Fatty Bars

Fatty Bars on sale ($8.00/each) at Cabrito.

As I sat down at the bar in Cabrito, I thought I was seeing things. But the display of Fatty Bars wasn’t a figment of my imagination, but rather new sweet merchandise from Zak Pelaccio and Team Fatty. According to the folks at Cabrito, the $8 chocolate bars have been available for two weeks and can be found at: Cabrito, both Fatty Crab restaurants (West Village and UWS), and the Fatty/Cabrito kiosk at the Mad. Sq. Mark’t on 23rd Street.

The candy bars come in two flavors: milk chocolate with puffed rice and ginger, and bitter chocolate with almonds, chili, praline and salt. They’re made by a boutique chocolatier in Brooklyn, and are wrapped in foil, as if the golden ticket on a Wonka Bar had gone crazy.

From Fatty Bourbon (by Buffalo Trace) to Fatty Bars, it will be interesting to see what Team Fatty comes up with next. Or maybe they could just focus on opening Fatty ‘Cue already— the Epicurious preview was a terrible tease.

AlwaysPartying: Fatty Football Feast

The Gluttoness’ heaping helping.

I’m used to enjoying hanging with the guys for marathon Sunday football sessions, but this past Sunday was really special. As I embarked up the stairwell at 844 Broadway for Epicurious.com’s “Fatty Sunday,” the scent of smoked meat was almost palpable. On the third floor, the always awesome Fatty team was offering a sneak-peek at the Southeast Asian Barbeque that’s going to be served at their long-awaited Brooklyn outpost, Fatty ‘Cue.

 

Left, Robbie Richter and Corwin Kave. Right, Zak Pelaccio.

The event was dubbed, “A Zak Pelaccio Lunchtime Feast,” and the buffet-style spread fit the bill. The room was outfitted like a cafeteria, with room-length tables flanked by flat-screens (on which the Giants showed Kansas City who was really chief). The food was showcased in the demonstration kitchen, where Zak Pelaccio, Corwin Kave and Andrew Pressler worked the burners, while Robbie Richter sliced Smoked BBQ Lamb Shoulder. It was topped with a Goat Yogurt Chili Sauce and the first bite had my nose running in no time. Since the Fatty crew intends to focus on local, sustainable products, all of Sunday’s dishes won’t necessarily be available when Fatty Cue opens, but they hope to keep a lamb and/or goat dish on the menu.

Continue Reading >>

AlwaysPartying: Grill-off at Water Taxi Beach (Long Island City)

Water Taxi Beach in Long Island City, Queens

Tuesday night, the brave, food-serious masses paid $35 to eat grilled food while huddling under tents as it rained in Long Island City at Water Taxi Beach (view site) for the Local Grill-off, the signature event of the first annual NYC Good Beer Month sponsored by the Good Beer Seal. The event benefited the Slow Food NYC Harvest Time and Snail Buck programs, which encourage New Yorkers to buy local food from regional Greenmarket farmers.

Amateur contestants battled for the title of “Good Beer Month Grill-off Champion” by preparing grilled food that was supposed to be produced from sustainably and humanely-raised animals and produce grown on farms within 150 miles. Challengers ranged in experience— some were semi-professional, competitive cooks while others were nine-to-fivers seeking culinary adventure. Their ingredients were grown, purchased, foraged, donated and hand-picked from farmers’ markets and local farms.

Ribs Within took top honors with their Smoked Pork Belly with Bok Choi Shooter. The best of the rest succeeded by aiming low and letting local, seasonal ingredients speak for themselves.

 

Clockwise from top left: BBQ Chicken Wings (Fatty Cue), Motz Burger (Water Taxi Beach), Pulled Pork & Pork Belly (Fette Sau)

There was other food on hand. Water Taxi Beach offered their Motz Burger and Fette Sau provided their pulled pork and ethereal pork belly. Jimmy Carbone of Jimmy’s No. 43 hosted and provided Flying Pig Farm’s Sausages with mustard. But Zak Pelaccio’s Fatty Cue owned the day with a preview of his brined, smoked, grilled, curried BBQ chicken wings served by Fatty Crab chef Corwin Kave. It was paired with a “wing condiment” (rye, sherry and lemon orgeat), a riff on the Mai Tai designed to be paired with the West Indian dry rub spices on the wings.

Following are the contestants, their entries, the farms from which they acquired their ingredients and the contestants’ favorite summer ingredients.

Click here to learn the contestants, their entries and the farms and the contestants' favorite summer ingredients. >>

<< Back to Thought For Food