James Beard medal James Beard Foundation Nominee 2010

Thought For Food

AlwaysTraveling: La Tana dei Golosi’s Chocolate Eggplant

Melanzane Al Cioccolato di Amalfi.

Restaurant: La Tana dei Golosi
Address: Via di San Giovanni in Laterano, 220, Rome, Italy (Eggplant for Dessert? posed the question: “Have you ever had a dessert involving eggplant?” It recalls a dish that was part of a six-course tasting menu, themed, “Kingdom of the Two Sicilies,” which I ate in Rome with my sister at La Tana dei Golosi in 2007.

La Tana dei Golosi seems to have changed chefs and owners, but back then it was an unpretentious slow food restaurant near the Colosseum that used excellent local and organic ingredients. It changed menus every two months and focused on a region of Italy and an historic moment of that region. The waiter told the story of each plate brought out. Thinking about that meal makes me happy. But I digress.

“Caramelle Del Goloso,” (Pasta Filled with Fossa Cheese and Pears) served with fried spaghetti was crazy good, inspiring several attempts to recreate it. To answer Robyn’s question, the most memorable dish was the last one, a wonderful surprise: Melanzane Al Cioccolato di Amalfi (Fried Eggplant with Chocolate). There was no limit to my skepticism, but the thin layers of chocolate-covered fried eggplant were delicate and delicious— accompanied by candied orange peels, pine nuts, drizzled chocolate and powdered chocolate and sugar.

My Neapolitan is remedial, but as far as I can tell, the dish is called, E’ Mulagnane c’a’ Ciucculata, and it’s supposedly an ancient tradition of Salerno. Proof positive that you can dip anything in chocolate and it will taste fantastic. Check out the slideshow for pictures of the rest of the meal.

 

AlwaysFresh: TriBeCa Greenmarket (7/29)

The AlwaysHungryNY.com Team is hitting the streets and heading to farmers markets throughout the city to scope out the fresh, seasonal ingredients that are inspiring the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.

This week, we were in TriBeCa at the TriBeCa Greenmarket. Click on the thumbnails below to see pictures from our farmers’ market tour. Remember, you can always use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out more about the foods that are currently in season.

 

AlwaysInformed: Harry’s Italian Pizza Bar

Eggplant Parmigiana Hero at Tuesday’s Dine Around Downtown

Gold St. may have seemed like a good idea in theory, but the 24-hour diner/bar/sushi concept wasn’t exactly embraced by locals in the financial district. As previously reported, the father-son team of Harry and Peter Poulakakos, is refurbishing the 2 Gold St. space and reverting to their successful “Harry’s” brand, this time with an Italian spin: Harry’s Italian Pizza Bar. If the term “pizza bar” sounds familiar, that’s because they’re also responsible for the perennially packed, Adrienne’s Pizza Bar.

We’ve gotten the early word on some of Harry’s new signature dishes. The menu will elaborate on Adrienne’s and include its renowned Old-Fashioned Pizzas. Aside from pizza, the big draws will be: family-style pasta portions (fitting considering this family-owned venture is under Peter’s management), a Meatball Hero, Steak Pizzaiolo, Stuffed Artichokes and Baked Clams. If you can’t wait until the June 15th opening, assuage your cravings for Italian at Adrienne’s in the meantime. Try the eggplant topping on your next old-fashioned pie— the thin slices make for a great Eggplant Parmigiana Pizza.

AlwaysQuestioning: Terrance Brennan & Bradford Thompson of Bar Artisanal

Together, Executive Chef, Terrance Brennan (of Artisanal and Picholine) and Consulting Chef, Bradford Thompson (formerly of Lever House) are delighting diners with their ““French”:http://www.alwayshungryny.com/thought-for-food/tag/French/ inspired” interpretation of Mediterranean small plates in an extension of the Artisanal brand, Bar Artisanal. AlwaysHungryNY recently sat down with these two chefs who have turned the failed Trigo space into a grand bistro in TriBeCa. When the kitchen at Bar Artisanal has settled into a routine, Brad hopes to open a restaurant with French and West Indian themes. In the meantime, the two are perfecting dishes, and eating plenty along the way.

AHNY: Are you Always Hungry?
BT: I’d say so, yeah…for adventure.
TB: No, because I nosh all day, especially with the new restaurant.

AHNY: So, what did you eat today?
BT: Two espressos and a cappuccino. We had a photo shoot all day. Oh, and granola.
TB: We had the photo shoot, so I tasted the Pizza, Chutney, Steak Tartare}thought-for-food/tag/Steak-Tartare/, Roquefort Parfait, Chickpea Frites, Oysters and Hangar Steak.

Brennan & Thompson on trends, snack foods and 'must-have' ingredients >>

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