Featured Dessert: Treats from Blue Smoke Bake Shop

Arthur Bovino — August 31, 2010

Left, Blue Smoke Bakery Shop’s Chocolate Layer Cake. Right: Banana Cream Pie and Key Lime Pie.

It may not be fair to new cupcake shops opening nationally in the wake of the New York trend, say Georgetown Cupcake, or Crave Cupcakes in Houston, but after several years it’s difficult to get excited about dry cake and buttercream. Still, when new shops open there’s the matter of due diligence. Case in point, Blue Smoke Bake Shop, a little booth by the entrance to Danny Meyer’s Flatiron barbeque joint.

But, even the most devout cupcake-trend hater has to give it up to pastry chef Jenn Giblin. The display may not be as big as the one at the other Flatiron BBQ joint, Hill Country, and the staple flavors aren’t as creative, but all in all, they may be better— at least the double chocolate. And there’s other good stuff. As Grub Street reported, the Bake Shop sells cookies, breads, cakes and pies from 11:30am till 9pm.

More at Blue Smoke Bake Shop >>

Featured Dessert: Tabla Cart’s Kulfi Pop

Maryse Chevrière — August 24, 2010

Milk Chocolate and Almond Kulfi Pop from Tabla’s seasonal cart.

Here’s a Flatiron dessert option that not only hits the popsicle trend, but also presents a nearby ice cream alternative for those who have already cycled through Shake Shack’s custard calendar: Tabla cart’s Milk Chocolate and Almond Kulfi Pop.

For those unfamiliar with it, kulfi is a type of flavored, milk-based frozen dessert originally from India. At Tabla’s seasonal cart you can have it sandwiched between chocolate chip cookies ($3), or on a stick as a “pop” ($3) that has been dipped in milk chocolate and covered with slivers of raw almond.

More about Tabla's Kulfi Pop >>

Featured Dessert: El Quinto Pino

Maryse Chevrière — August 16, 2010

Crema Catalana at El Quinto Pino in Chelsea.

By now you know El Quinto Pino as that quintessentially perfect Spanish tapas-winebar date spot. A tiny space with low light where you can sip from a glass that benefits from a good pour, and share bites like uni panini, croquetas, and “tomaca.” But, if you have yet to stay for dessert you’re missing out.

Presently, there are two options to choose from: Crema Catalana and Torta Santiago. Order both— they’re just $6 each. The Crema Catalana is like Crème Brûlée’s Catalan cousin, but with a more rustic feel— the cracking burnt sugar crust not even reaching the edge of the dish. The custard underneath is sweet with impressive volume, fluffy in a way you don’t imagine custard can be.

More dessert at El Quinto Pino >>

Featured Dessert: For the Love of Salted Caramel

Arthur Bovino — August 10, 2010

Sundae: Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Candied Popcorn, Whipped Crème Fraiche & Chocolate Sauce at ABC Kitchen.

It’s not news that Salted Caramel is taking over the world. But the path to world domination must go straight through New York. There’s currently a trio of salted caramel high-flyers for the City’s dessert-lovers to check off their lists. Take the salted caramel quiz:

• Have you had Shake Shack’s Salted Caramel Custard? Yes? Good.
• How about Cake and Shake’s Salted Caramel Shake? Yes? Excellent.
• Lastly, the Salted Caramel Sundae at ABC Kitchen. Yes? Wow. You’re good, and excused.

Everyone else, read on…

Salted Caramel hat trick >>

Featured Dessert: Pies ‘N’ Thighs’ Molasses Cookie

Madeline G. Muldoon — August 03, 2010

Pies-n-Thighs’ Molasses Cookie.

Though it hides from the limelight in a case near the T-shirts and beer koozies, the Molasses Cookie at Pies ‘n’ Thighs possesses just as much star power as the famed menu standout, the chicken biscuit.

At $2, the Molasses Cookie is certainly a deal— it’s as large as a man’s hand. And it satisfies both soft and crispy cookie lovers with a thin, chewy texture and spots of sticky, caramelized molasses. And perhaps best of all, in addition to the candied taste there’s a racy streak— a kick of seasoning.

Pies ‘N’ Thighs’ Molasses Cookie presents a triple-threat of sweet-salty-spicy that most desserts can only dream of attempting. That is, if desserts do dream. We were too busy vacuuming up every last crumb of this humble treat to find out.

AlwaysInvestigating: Robicelli’s Alcohol Cupcakes

Madeline G. Muldoon — July 27, 2010

Clockwise from top: Robicelli’s Cherries Jubilee Cupcake, Bananas Foster Cupcake, and Hot Buttered Rum Cupcake.

The crowd of post-punk kids loitering on Ludlow outside Cake Shop isn’t there for the eats. That’s understandable: the latest feature at this Lower East Side neighborhood coffee shop/venue/record store, Robicelli’s alcohol-infused cupcakes, resemble crusty, overcooked polenta topped with a flutter of hipster Cool Whip.

The Cherries Jubilee, Bananas Foster, and Hot Buttered Rum cupcakes sat in a sad cluster under clouded plastic adorned with a yellow “21+” sticker. Though the bartender couldn’t explain how, the cupcakes supposedly each contain one shot of liquor. “We’re still trying to figure that out,” he shrugged.

Though last week’s Time Out New York called Robicelli’s the answer to the “overhyped and underwhelming” cupcake phenomenon, they have yet to hit their stride as a bar-bakery sweet. In fact, the failure of these “special” desserts discourages any further sampling of the company’s other products.

The goods, no more than two ounces each and bone-dry, beg you to ask just where all that uncooked alcohol is. The cake portion barely provides a hint of vanilla. The redemption of the baked flavor wasteland is in the light frosting that tops the muffin portion. The Cherries Jubilee and Bananas Foster had edible toppings, but they were certainly not intoxicating in any way. However, the hard, Hot Buttered Rum went untouched after one bite of the cloyingly sweet butterscotch-drizzled topping.

Location: Cake Shop
Address: 152 Ludlow Street
Hours: Daily, 9:00am-2:00am
Contact: (212) 253-0036

Featured Dessert: Terroir Trio

Arthur Bovino — July 20, 2010

Olive Oil Cake with Riesling-Soaked Peaches.

You’ve no doubt by now heard about Terroir’s Olive Oil Cake— the one sitting on the cake stand under a glass cover by the front window. It’s citrusy, moist and delicious without being too sweet. And the cake is accompanied by Riesling-soaked peaches that still have some texture. But the cake is just one of three simple, great desserts at Terroir that deserve some attention.

There are a few notable qualities to these three desserts. First, they’re fairly small portions, not cheap small, but just-right small. Second, all three desserts have both two textural components, and two flavor components. Three, the central component of each has fantastic mouthfeel.

Three Great Desserts at Terroir >>

AlwaysInformed: Spekuloos for Sale from Wafels & Dinges

Arthur Bovino — July 14, 2010

A Liège Wafel with Spekuloos Spread and Strawberries from Wafels & Dinges.

There it is in the in-box, sweet, sweet news: “IT’S NOT PEANUT BUTTER, IT’S SPEKULOOS!” Wafels & Dinges is now selling their secret weapon, Spekuloos, the “winning ingredient” used in their victory over Bobby Flay on Food Network’s Throwdown.

While it may not be being popularized across the country at quite the breakneck pace the press release makes it seem— “And It’s Spreading Across America”— (look out! it’ll be on your jelly sandwich in the lunchroom tomorrow!) this is exciting news. If you’ve missed our previous coverage, basically, Spekuloos (or Speculoos), tastes like Golden Grahams Cereal in dessert sauce form. Spekuloos didn’t originate as a spread, but as a cookie— for the full details, read all about it here.

Previously, finding Spekuloos was tough. You could buy the cookies at Le Pain Quotidien and at Walgreens which sells Lotus Bakeries’ ‘caramelised biscuits’ rebranded in the United States as Biscoff. As far as we can tell, before this, getting the spread meant ordering a 28oz jar for $7.58 through the airline food supplier, Gourmet Center.

Now you can buy Spekuloos through Wafels and Dinge’s website, at their truck, and at their new stands at the South Street Seaport, Riverside Park, and at the Arcadia Gift Shop on Eighth between 21st and 22nd Streets. “It leaves Spekuloos-virgins in awe,” their site claims. Indeed.

Featured Dessert: The “Shacked-Up”

Arthur Bovino — July 13, 2010

“Shacked-Up,” an off-menu mash-up of three new concretes.

SHAKE SHACK THEATRE DISCTRICT
Starring Danny Meyer

OPENING NIGHT: A SHAKE SHACK LINE!
A musical about tourists and zealots alike!

The new Shake Shack in Midtown West has created opportunities for burger headlines, pun-ridden show titles, and at the least, the names for three new menu-standard concretes: the Great White Way, Pretzel! The Concrete, and Jelly’s Last Donut. Those new menu items have also created the opportunity for a new over-the-top off-the-menu option, a mixture of all three.

Shake Shack Mash-Up >>

Featured Dessert: The Red Cat’s Pistachio Semifreddo

Maryse Chevrière — July 06, 2010

The Red Cat’s Pistachio Semifreddo with Hot Fudge and Crème Fraîche Brownie.

Keeping your ice cream options varied and interesting is an essential part of the summer dessert ritual. And if you haven’t tried it already, the Pistachio Semifreddo at The Red Cat offers reprieve from the waffle cone and cookie sandwich routine.

The dessert arrives on what looks like your grandmother’s china— cute and vintage— very apropos for a restaurant with such a strong neighborhood vibe. The Semifreddo is glistening and white, an ice cream snow globe with flecks of vibrant green pistachio, sitting on a thin, but rich crème fraîche brownie base. Then, with the flick of a wrist, it’s gone— hidden beneath a stream of hot fudge poured tableside.

It doesn’t taste much like pistachio (disappointing, but not enough to make you put down the spoon), they’re there more for crunch. The mousse is light and airy as it should be, with a fading, faintly cool center. The effect is a like a polished hot fudge brownie sundae, and really, who can say no to that?

Featured Dessert: Dark and Stormy Float at The Redhead

Maryse Chevrière — June 29, 2010

Dark and Stormy Float: Cherry Ice Cream, Ginger Beer, and Gosling’s Rum.

If old-school soda shops were to become the next trend in New York cocktail culture, The Redhead’s Dark and Stormy Float would belong there. It’s the dessert Archie and the gang would order in college.

Rich cherry ice cream with pieces of whole, crushed cherries makes the strongest statement. Sure, it’s Häagen-Dazs, and it’s delicious. Gosling’s Rum and ginger beer complete the equation, but most of the ginger flavor comes from the cookie garnish. Dunk the cookie in whole and let it soften in the liquid if that’s your thing, or better yet, crumble it up and sprinkle the pieces over the on top.

In the heat of a summer evening this float ($9.00) is cool enough to count as refreshing, a delightful, drinkable dessert that can stand in as cocktail once you’ve past that point in the meal when it’s acceptable to order another round.

Featured Dessert: Five Leaves’ Ice Cream Cart

Maryse Chevrière — June 22, 2010

Clockwise from top: The new ice cream cart outside Five Leaves in Greenpoint, a single scoop cone of Bitter Chocolate Mint, a cup of Salted Caramel Pretzel.

There are few occasions when Five Leaves doesn’t fit the bill for all your Greenpoint dining needs. There’s a menu for those who appreciate both good sardines, and a burger topped with beets and a fried egg. Outdoor tables serve as spots for a romantic meal. And the bar is a great place to meet up with friends for a round of Southern Belles. With the launch of an ice cream cart, it’s now where you go when it’s 90 degrees out and Mister Softee won’t do.

The retro, airstream-shaped cart debuted outside the restaurant on June 13th, where it will serve homemade ice cream on Sundays through June from 12:00pm to 11:00pm, and every day in July and August. Selecting from the four flavors presents a difficult choice: Salted Caramel Pretzel, Honey Vanilla, Coffee Amaretti, and Bitter Chocolate Mint. They’re the creations of Nick Morgenstern of the General Greene, which also has a cart. Five Leaves stocks their ice cream year-round.

Bitter Chocolate Mint is the hip, sophisticated cousin of that familiar, bright Green Mint Chocolate Chip flavor you’re used to. The chocolate is dark, rich, and not too sweet. It’s plain appearance belies an in-your-face mint flavor— it’s like chewing on a mint leaf. For those experiencing withdrawal from Shake Shack’s Salted Caramel custard, this rendition actually improves on it. The base is super salty and faintly sweet. Pieces of crushed pretzel are folded in to order so they retain their crunch. The only thing that would make it even better? Chocolate-covered pretzels.

First Look: The Best Chocolate Cake in The World

Arthur Bovino — June 18, 2010

The Best Chocolate Cake in the World.

The Best Chocolate Cake in The World is now in New York. We told you about it already. Enough talk. It can be yours right now. For free.

They’re selling slices and giving away samples. Carlos is handing them out himself. They said they’re open until 9pm. Go. Then look at this slideshow to memorialize what you just scarfed down. The full menu is below. Starting next Friday they’ll also be doing:

• House made chocolate drinks (a Chocolate Shot! Iced Chocolate!)
• Fresh-squeezed juices (blueberry, celery, grapefruit, strawberry, and more)
• Gelato (Espresso, Fresh Mint, and others)
• Tostas with baby shrimp, Portuguese Ham, and other meat and cheese combinations.
• Coffees and Affogato.

Now go. And let it pause in the sunlight by the window for a sec before you take that first bite.

The Best Chocolate Cake in the World >>

Featured Dessert: Cake Balls at BabyCakes NYC

Arthur Bovino — June 15, 2010

Cake Balls at BabyCakes NYC at 248 Broome Street on the Lower East Side.

Three spots start doing Cake Balls within a month? First Momofuku Milk Bar’s Cake Bonbons, then they showed up at Hester Street, and now BabyCakes NYC, where yesterday the counter-person said they had been making them for about a month. As Fork in the Road recently noted, we must be witnessing a nascent trend— an insurrection of upscale Munchkins against the ruling cupcake class.

Let’s face it, as good as something may taste, a tagline like BabyCakes’, “Refined Sugar Free, Gluten Free, Wheat Free, Soy Free, Casein Free, Egg Free, Vegan, and Kosher,” is going to make you gun-shy. There’s no need to worry with this dessert— they do contain sugar, and they’re really good. Whereas the Milk Bar Cake Bonbons are fudgier, more dense, with a delicate air and the sense that they won’t travel well—more like cake truffles— the Cake Balls at BabyCakes are more chewy, more cakey too, and wet—though in a thick, large-crumb kind of way.

BabyCakes varies their flavors— they’ve made Red Velvet, Vanilla with lemon frosting, and combinations of chocolate and vanilla. Yesterday’s flavors included: Chocolate with Vanilla Glaze, Vanilla Sprinkle, and Lemon ($1.75/each). While the Chocolate ones are familiarly fudgy with a chewy edge, the non-pareils-sprinkle studded Vanilla Balls are less powerfully flavorful. That lack of punch is more than made for with the flavor in the Lemon Cake Balls. You smell the citrus as soon as you open the bag. Inside the texture resembles a light, wet fruitcake the color of golden raisins.

Featured Dessert: Churros at Barmarché

Maryse Chevrière — June 08, 2010

Raffa’s Cinnamon & Sugar Churros with Butter Pecan Gelato.

After a big meal, there’s the dessert you order just to pick at, and then there’s the dessert so fantastic you end up finishing before remembering that you weren’t hungry in the first place. At Barmarché in NoLita, that I’m-not-going-to-regret-this-decision dessert is Raffa’s Cinnamon & Sugar Churros.

Their smell invades as they near— fat, cinnamon and sugar coated, log cabin-stacked churros. The crisp ridges give you that Cinnamon Toast Crunch cereal throwback, but the dough inside is soft and cakey.

For a dessert that is usually improved by a dipping sauce, these churros can easily stand alone. Still, you should try them with the cool, caramel sauce— a welcome alternative to the now standard warm chocolate sauce. And while there’s nothing wrong with the usual accompaniment, it’s warm out now, and there’s also a very good butter pecan gelato on the side to be enjoyed.