AlwaysInvestigating: Philly vs. NY Soft Pretzels

The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009

I’ve never had the physical evidence to back up an assertion I’ve made many times: New York City’s street vendor soft pretzels don’t hold a candle to Philadelphia’s soft pretzels. During a recent trip to Philly I made a point of going to the Philly Pretzel Factory to bring back proof.

The Philly Pretzel Factory’s slogan is, “Real Pretzels Travel in Packs.” Stumped? Philadelphia soft pretzels come in sheets, usually rows of ten. They’re long and narrow, like squashed New York City pretzels with thicker ropes. During baking, the sides adhere to each other as they expand, creating the sheet effect (right). Enough about aesthetics— let’s focus on taste.

from left: Philly Soft Pretzel, New York Street Vendor Pretzel

Since I grew up in Philadelphia, I turned to two impartial members of the CORE:

CORE Member, The Hungry Goat:
“Philadelphia Soft Pretzels are much denser, the salt MAKES this pretzel. It’s tough and very chewy, especially the outer layer, and I wish it was softer. As far as New York pretzels go, bigger is not better. While I prefer the texture of the NY pretzel, the dough is totally bland, and there is not enough salt to make up for the lack of seasoning. It’s like eating something that has the flavor of a water cracker but in doughier form.”

CORE Member, Arthur Bovino:
“I’ve got New York pride so I’m loathe to cede ANYTHING to Philadelphia and I mean anything (I’m not even a Mets fan). So it really makes me mad that even with the significant advantage of being just bought from a vendor before I ate it, New York soft pretzels lost out to day-old Philly ones that sat overnight in a fridge. The charcoal smokiness I enjoy smelling as it wafts from the New York pretzel street carts during the winter isn’t enjoyable to taste and not only were the exteriors undersalted but they were somehow dry on the inside too. The Philly pretzel was properly salted, still moist and tasted like I remember enjoying soft pretzels as a kid. In the name of all things NY-pretzel-holy, somebody do something, please.”

Philadelphia pretzels are also a better deal wallet-wise. At the Philly Pretzel Factory, ten pretzels cost $3.00. Two pretzels from a New York City vendor cost $4.00. No contest—Philly wins.

Perfect Bite: The Ditch Dog

The Gluttoness — May 13, 2009

AlwaysHungryNY exalts the concept of the ‘perfect bite,’ the combination of an excellent dish’s best flavor elements (how many components depends on the dish) to achieve flavor maximization. The true power move at any restaurant is to take this concept to the next level: integrating the best elements from several excellent dishes to create the supreme perfect bite.

The concept was formalized during a steak dinner. The steak was delicious, but it was the juicy bite of steak topped with creamed spinach, mashed potato and fried onions that was, well, perfect. The CORE is obsessed with creating the perfect bite for every meal.

Now, while we are often forced to carefully consider flavor combinations as we stack our tines high with meticulously constructed mouthfuls, some dishes do all the work for us. Take something that may sound revolting at first, Ditch Plains’ Ditch Dog ($14).

Click here for more about the Ditch Dog and the "Perfect Bite" >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Hungry Hippos Eat “The Hippo”

The Gluttoness — May 13, 2009

The last time the CORE chose a place to eat based on the word ‘hippo,’ it led to a meal at Fat Hippo, and a disastrous review. Undeterred on our quest to find all things high-quality Hippo, we set out to test a grilled chicken Churrasco, called, “The Hippo” at Island Burgers & Shakes.

This hole-in-the-wall joint occupies a narrow space decorated with surfboard shaped cutouts and lined with circular, ketchup and mustard colored tables. Ironically, it’s the plate-wide churrascos, not the burgers, which the restaurant’s sign promotes. There are more than fifty different topping combinations available for Island Burger’s plate-wide sandwiches, from the Cordon Bleu (ham and swiss on sourdough) to the Tijuana (bacon, jack cheese, guacamole and onion). All are available on over-sized burgers and on Churrascos with lettuce, onions and pickles. You can opt to build your own sandwich using the list of extras (for example, blackened chicken with bayou mayonnaise) and choose between buns (sesame, pita, Pullman sourdough, dark rye or ciabatta).

“The Hippo,” an open-faced churrasco, is a butterflied, grilled chicken breast topped with curried sour cream, bacon, cheddar, onion, scallion and guacamole. Like the animal after which it’s named, the sandwich is tremendous— the poor pita could barely handle the chicken, let alone the wealth of toppings. It seemed to scream out, “Set me free!”

In order to create a workable sandwich, the chicken needed to be cut. The first bite was an overwhelming creamy mess of sour cream and guacamole. A more carefully constructed bite featuring every element was much better. The mishmash of flavors was good, but it really came down to a tug-of-war between the curry and the guacamole. Surprisingly, the bacon disappeared in the madness—never a good thing. The lingering curry flavor ultimately won.

Our verdict? The sandwich tasted very good, but structurally it has problems. The heavy sauces make the pita soggy and too easy to rip— something two slices of Pullman sourdough bread would easily fix. Though there is room for improvement, this is definitely a Hippo that we would play with.

Top 5: Mexican Corn

May 11, 2009

Sure, we’re prematurely excited for summer, but we can’t help it. BBQ, bathing suits and sweet corn are right around the corner. Musing about corn, the CORE (Council of Real Eaters) members started discussing Mexican Corn. Elote, as it’s known, is no longer simply a side dish. It can be a barometer of a good Mexican restaurant. A flavorful preparation usually requires grilling, then blanketing the corn with some type of Mexican cheese (like cotija), and a sprinkling of heat (chili powder) or other smoky spices. Some variations include slathering on mayonnaise or a flavored aioli. That’s fine, just don’t forget to squeeze the lime!

Click here to see our Top 5 Mexican Corn.

AlwaysInvestigating: The Creamy Side of Eel

May 08, 2009

What are the chances that two CORE (Council of Real Eaters) members would eat two particularly decadent, creamy, unexpected eel dishes on one night?

Very slim, which is why that we just couldn’t keep to ourselves:

1) L’Atelier de Robuchon in the Four Seasons Hotel, serves L’Anguille: Caramelized Eel Layered with Smoked Foie Gras.

CORE Founder, Jeff Zalaznick:

“I had forgotten how incredible this dish was. It truly showcases a high-level of pure French and Japanese fusion. The terrine-like composition combines Japanese-style eel with French-style foie gras. This decadent dish is characteristically Robuchon in its sophistication of both presentation and flavor— flawless execution of sweet caramelization, smoky and savory.”

2) Poke, a sushi restaurant on the Upper East Side, has a Dancing Roll: Eel and Avocado on the outside and Cream Cheese and Avocado inside.

CORE Member, Arthur Bovino:

“I don’t normally enjoy eel or cream cheese in my sushi, but I was honestly delighted. It wasn’t overly sweet and the mix of texture and taste with the soft, warm rice made for a winning combination. The avocado furthered the creaminess, but was incidental to the eel/cream cheese combination.”

That’s right, two creamy eel compositions on one stormy night. That’s how the CORE gets down.

Top 5: Italian Burgers

May 06, 2009

The burger may be an American classic, but, over the years, a variety of cultural spins have been put on it. For example, AlwaysHungryNY recently highlighted the Asian-inspired Wagyu Burger at Kurve. Another variation, a favorite of ours actually, is the Italian Burger. Having eaten them across the city, the AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters has finalized its list of New York’s Top 5 Italian Burgers.

Click here to see who’s ranked and why.

AlwaysHungryOlympics: Clinton Street Eating

The Gluttoness — April 24, 2009

The AlwaysHungry Olympics is a feature dedicated to gastronomic feats that defy normal human boundaries. These expeditions are a true test of strength, endurance and concentration that can only be achieved through practice and dedication of the mind, body and soul. The AlwaysHungry Olympics demonstrates how some can turn eating into a sport, and on that rare occasion, into an art form.

Clockwise from left: Fat Hippo’s Steak & Eggs, Cube 63’s Sushi, Frankie’s Rabbit Pappardelle, Falai’s Exterior [food not pictured by request]

It had all the makings of a glorious night. The AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters was heading out for a meal at Fat Hippo. The name alone had us excited considering that we essentially share a logo (though their hippo is much fatter than our silverware-wielding cartoon). Our anticipation for the evening evaporated when we realized that the Burger Fondue’s itty-bitty burgers were the menu’s only worthwhile bites. An hour hadn’t even passed before it was obvious that we couldn’t allow this to be the end of our night but rather an awful amuse bouche to our next destination. Our location on Clinton Street inspired an AlwaysHungry Olympics— a hopeful Tour de Gluttony of this narrow Lower East Side street’s numerous eateries.

San Marzano Brick Oven Pizza called to us from the other side of 71 Clinton Street, but the address just put Wylie Dufresne on the brain. WD-50 is unfortunately closed on Tuesday night, so we opted for a table at Cube 63 to sample their specialty sushi rolls. Considering it’s BYOB and we had no booze, we were compelled to cross the street afterwards for pasta and wine at Falai. Clerkenwell was debated as our next stop, but the ridiculously small menu and even smaller crowd sent us packing. A totally empty Sachiko’s on Clinton wasn’t enticing either.

We ended up at Frankies 17 Spuntino, the busiest spot on the block. Admittedly, we stopped eating short of Clinton St. Baking Co., but we feel safe declaring Frankies as the clear-cut victor for the best dinner on Clinton Street. This conclusion can only be understood through the context of each restaurant experience, so follow the links below to learn all the juicy details.

1. Fat Hippo 71 Clinton Street

At first glance it was clear that the entrées would outshine the appetizers. Burger Fondue and a Duck Cuban sounded far superior to House Cured Salmon with Potato Latkes…Click Here For Full Review

2. Cube 63 63 Clinton Street

Owners Ken & Ben Lau, brothers with a fondness for booze-infested fun, had a recipe for success with their low prices and creative specialty rolls. You’re not going to Cube for an omakase, but rather to binge on inspired spicy tuna rolls with eel sauce and extra crunchies… Click Here For Full Review

3. Falai 68 Clinton Street

The bread was impressive. Some rolls were stuffed with stewed black cabbage and others with sautéed onions and fennel. But the amuse, a Parmesan Cheese Marshmallow with Capers and Anchovies was nauseatingly salty and nearly impossible to eat without destroying… Click Here For Full Review

4. Frankies 17 Sputino 17 Clinton Street

Both dining rooms were full. One of the things that keeps both Frankies Sputino locations packed is their dedication to sourcing only the finest ingredients. When ingredients aren’t up to their standards they make their own… Click Here For Full Review

AlwaysHungryNY: Num Pang In The Ass

The Gluttoness — April 06, 2009

A while back, the Council of Eaters convened over a dinner at Kampuchea Noodle Bar. We loved our starters, namely the Pork Belly, Ribs and Pickles, but we were underwhelmed by the sandwiches. Having recently tasted our first Baoguette, the bar was set mighty high at the time, and “The Kampuchea” frankly couldn’t compete. While the Stewed Oxtail was a standout, the experience made us skeptical of the forthcoming Num Pang, the restaurant’s Cambodian “Banh Mi“ offshoot.

Upon closer investigation, the fact of the matter is that Num Pang’s sandwiches are actually delicious, and a significant improvement to their predecessors at Kampuchea. The soft yet sturdy Parisi Bakery rolls, are slathered in a spicy chili mayo, and pair beautifully with the bouquet of fresh ingredients—cucumber, pickled carrots and cilantro. As usual, some hit the spot more than others, here’s the rundown:

Our favorite was the Pulled Duroc Pork with Spiced Honey. The substantial roll soaked up the flowing pork juice. The spiced honey and vinegar-soaked veggies combined for an awesome sweet-and-sour profile that worked famously in collaboration with the salty swine. Runner-up went to the Peppercorn Catfish. Large fillets mingled with sweet soy sauce, that enhanced and that did not overwhelm. The perfectly cooked Skirt Steak, seasoned with crushed coriander and peppercorn, was challenging to keep together, but the excellent cooking temperature, and the essence of charcoal grill, made for some robust and enjoyable bites.

Coconut Tiger Shrimp was as enjoyable as Kampuchea’s, where we liked it. Hoisin Veal Meatball had no sign of hoisin, but rather, the tomato and basil accompaniments made it resemble and taste like an Italian meatball sub topped with traditional banh mi trimmings. The odd yet intriguing combination would have received more attention had they not skimped so much on the meatballs. As can be expected, the Vegetarian Num Pang was the least exciting.

Like our dinner at Kampuchea, Num Pang left us with a good impression—the former earned itself a solid B, and the sandwiches warranted an even more favorable B+/A- rating. While our experience at Kampuchea ended with a very friendly chat with Chef Ratha Chau, my encounter with Ratha at Num Pang was quite the contrary.

Click Here to Read About Our Encounter... >>

AlwaysInformed: Edible Creepy Crawlers

The Hungry Goat — April 03, 2009

File this under: weird edibles you’d never expect to see at an airport newsstand. I was in the Houston Intercontinental Airport, buying my usual pre-flight trash rags, when I stumbled across these gems (pictured above) in the aisle of kitschy Texas-themed souvenirs. Take a close look. That’s right, those are lollipops with real—I repeat, real—worms and scorpions inside them.

Online research revealed that Hotlix, the self-proclaimed “original insect candy creator,” has a whole product line of creepy crawler treats that extends way beyond lollipops. Bizarre food aficionados with appetites for cringe-worthy eats can choose from delicacies like BBQ “Larvets,” Bacon & Cheddar Cheese “Crickettes,” and Chocolate-Dipped Insects—all fashioned with critters that have been fed special diets to make them “edible.”

Two brave members of the AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters puckered up and sampled the strawberry and blueberry scorpion pops. The verdict? Really, really chewy, then crispy…and delicious.

AlwaysHungryNY: Cuban Beats on Thompson Street

The Gluttoness — April 01, 2009

If neither the name, nor the on-sight cigar roller send the message, Cuba is undeniably Cuban. The space echoes salsa music and the sangria is flowing. The menu reads like a laundry list of Cuban classics—Yuca, Plantains and Tamales give way to Ropa Vieja, Vaca Frita and Lechon Asado. From all appearances the Council of Eaters is optimistic. The growing crowd furthers our high hopes, but did the Cuban food further our good time or did it dampen the already rainy evening?

Read the full review.

AlwaysLearning: Koulibiac

March 26, 2009

The AlwaysHungryNY Council of Eaters was dining at Balthazar on a Wednesday afternoon when we were presented with a daily special that was surprisingly unbeknownst to any of us: Koulibiac. Two fillets of salmon sandwich a beautiful layer of mushroom duxelles. This is then wrapped in a mixture of stewed onions, spinach, cabbage, dill and rice, which is then wrapped in puff pastry and served over a white wine and mushroom cream sauce. As you can see, this results in quite a presentation. Although this rendition was overcooked and underseasoned, it was clear that this dish had a lot of potential, and was deserving of further investigation.

Koulebiac is the French adaption of a traditional Russian speciality, Kulbyaka, a fish pie with grains (usually rice—kasha and buckwheat are alternatives), mushrooms, onions and hard-boiled eggs baked in a pastry shell. The dish can be prepared with any fish, or even chicken, though salmon is the most traditional. Historically, the dish was finished with Vesiga, which is the dried marrow of a sturgeon’s spinal cord. The Russian staple was brought over to classical French cuisine by the great Chef Escoffier in “The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery,” in which it became known as Koulibiac or Coulibiac.

The French adaption elevated the dish to haute cuisine. Shallots are substituted for onions, the pastry shell is either egg-washed brioche dough or puff pastry, and the creamy mixture of condiments is seasoned with white wine, dill and sometimes lemon. The presentation can best be compared to that of beef wellington. Koulibiac can be made as an individual serving and served as an appetizer, or a large piece of salmon can be used, making for a large, family-sized portion that can be sliced table-side.

What if we substituted the pastry for a bacon weave? We will be experimenting with this very interesting dish in the future.

Top 5: Chicken Fried Steak

The Hungry Goat — March 18, 2009

When I heard about the opening of a West Texas-themed restaurant called Marfa last month, I got a hankering for Chicken Fried Steak like you wouldn’t believe. Being a Texas native, I was doubtful that any East Coast eatery would be able to make a Chicken Fried Steak with White Gravy that could hold a candle to the renditions I eat at home. Clearly this had Top5 mission written all over it. One massive chicken-fried coma later, the AlwaysHungry Council of Eaters was ready to rank. Determining the order was pretty cut and dry, except for when it came to naming the number one spot. Marfa was easily the most authentic, but Cafeteria had a slight edge in terms of overall flavor. It sent us into the throws of a deep gastro-dilemma (not to mention a heated argument), but in the end, there could be only one winner. Click here to find out who came out on top.