AlwaysInvestigating: Fancy Snack Food
The Glutttoness — October 14, 2009
From left, Cod with Potato Chips (Ed’s Chowder House), Broccoli and Cheetos (Park Avenue Autumn), and Pretzel-Crusted Crab Cake (davidburke townhouse).
When Park Avenue Autumn’s (view) Craig Koketsu started the trend with Cheetos on broccoli, we were excited, but now that people are following suit and doing cool things with everyday snack foods, we are very excited. Sure, it might not be as extreme as Erik R. Trinidad turning Wendy’s Spicy Chicken Sandwich and Frosty into a “gourmet” Chicken Mole Frostano on Fancy Fast Food, but considering what’s being done with Cheetos, potato chips, pretzels and breakfast cereal (e.g. Franklin Café Southie’s Cap’n Crunch Fried Chicken in Boston), just imagine the possibilities for Hot Fries, Smartfood and Cool Ranch Doritos.
Broccoli and cheddar is a classic combination, but choosing Cheetos as your cheddar is pretty damn awesome. And Koketsu doesn’t just use ordinary Cheetos, opting instead for broken chunks of Cheetos Crunchy. Any nutritional value from steaming the vegetables is further undermined by what you don’t see, the pool of butter at the bottom of the bowl. Butter-coated Cheetos amounts to a new level of crazy deliciousness, like the savory equivalent of eating Fruit Loops in melted ice cream. It will be near impossible to ever enjoy broccoli this much again.
FirstLook: Ed’s Chowder House
The Gluttoness — October 05, 2009
The exterior of Ed’s Chowder House, and the raw bar, inside.
When news broke about Center Cut’s transformation into Ed’s Chowder House (view), I instantly had confidence in Jeffrey Chodorow’s new direction with Eighty-One’s Chef Ed Brown. After City Harvest’s Street & Savory Event in June, I named Brown’s Crispy Fried Clam Roll the evening’s best savory bite. Considering that Center Cut was bad and remarkably over-priced, a sophisticated clam shack seemed worth a shot (though said Clam Roll is nowhere to be found). The stately decor and older crowd hasn’t changed much, but both the bar (with it’s own menu) and dining room are crowded with diners now that buttery Lobster Rolls are flying out of the kitchen a la Pearl Oyster Bar.
SEARCH: Fish & Chips
The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009
There are no two ways about it, a fresh basket of Fish & Chips and a cold beer just make a great meal. You don’t have to cross the pond for it either. A Salt & Battery dishes up some of the best British pub grub in town. Their chips are soggy by American standards but believe it or not, that doesn’t stop them from being really good, and the fried cod is a great control against which to start judging other fried fish in the city. The impressively crisp exterior encases buttery, flaky fish inside. The tartar sauce, which almost seems to have been puréed, is also superb. We love to add a dash of malt vinegar for a distinctive tang. If you want to put A Salt & Battery’s fish and chips up against the city’s other top contenders, just use the VERY ADVANCED SEARCH we’ve included for you below.
AlwaysHungryNY Recommended Fish & Chips
Other recommended renditions of fish and chips can be found using this search.
AlwaysHungryNY Fish & Chips with Outdoor Seating
One problem with A Salt & Battery is the cramped, limited seating. If you’re looking to feast on Fish & Chips in an outdoor setting, use this search.
Dish of the Week: Nobu-Style Fish & Chips
The Gluttoness — September 15, 2008
As an ode to his trio of London restaurants (I think the one in Hyde Park is actually the best in the world), Nobu has taken a stab at England’s specialty, Fish and Chips. Using elements from his most famous dishes, the delicate Miso Cod and the crispy Rock Shrimp Tempura, the generous pieces of supple cod are perfectly coated in a crispy tempura crust. In a fusion of English and Japanese flavors, the vinegar-heavy ponzu dipping sauce not only pleases the palate, but perfectly balances the dish. The fried fish is appropriately served in a traditional parchment paper cone, and the intricately stacked (Linkin-Log style) “chips” remind you that your food is not being made behind the bar at a Manchester pub. In Nobu terms, the Fish and Chips is a relatively new dish as it has only been on the menu for about a year, and this highbrow rendition is indubitably the real dog’s bollocks.
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