AlwaysInformed: Señor Tacombi

Arthur Bovino — September 04, 2009

Señor Tacombi, a Mexican street taco concept from Playa del Carmen, Mexico.

There have been rumblings that Aaron Sanchez might be working on a food truck and now, it seems, things may be coming together. Señor Tacombi (view site) is a taqueria concept that has been operating in Playa del Carmen, Mexico for about three and a half years. It’s a taco stand fashioned with a 1960’s VW bus. We’ve heard that the founder, Dario Wolos Cantu, has partnered with Myriad Restaurant Group and Aaron Sanchez (of Centrico), who will supposedly be taking care of the taco and Mexican street food menu. Here’s the catch, as we understand it, while the bus could be moved for events, it’s not going to be a mobile concept.

Most of the website is in Spanish, but amidst images of white lingerie-wearing angels and Mexican-wrestling-mask and white business suit-wearing men, the concept seems to be traditional Mexican street tacos with quality ingredients. The menu (with magic mushrooms and flying, cape-wearing pigs) of these self-proclaimed “LOS HIJOS DEL MAÍZ” (Children of the Corn) has featured:

Fish Tacos: Herb-breaded grouper and shrimp, fresh ceviche with lime, Pico de gallo and olive oil.
Veggie Tacos: “Magic Mushrooms,” queca pacheca, beans, corn and slices of cheese.
Beef: Flank steak, with green pepper and onion.
Pork: Cochinita pibil and carnitas
Chicken: “Chicken Locochón,” shredded chicken breast in tomato sauce, chipotle and onion.

AlwaysLearning: Cochinita Pibil

Josh Kaplan — June 30, 2009

What it is: Cochinita Pibil, or Puerco Pibil (Buried Baby Pig/Hog) is a whole suckling pig or pork butt, rubbed with an intricate spice blend, wrapped in a banana leaf and slow-roasted. The magic of the dish is created by Achiote Paste (or Recado Rojo), made from a distinctive spice blend that includes: clove, achiote, cumin, allspice, dried Mexican oregano, black pepper and salt, combined with sour Seville Oranges, vinegar, garlic and habanero peppers. Once slathered with paste, the meat is usually covered with sliced onions, wrapped in a banana leaf, and placed in a large baking pan in marinade. It is then covered with tin foil and cooked at a very low temperature until it falls apart. Traditionally, Cochinita Pibil was buried in a pit with a fire at the bottom to roast it.

Where it’s From: Cochinita Pibil is one of the most famous staples of Yucatán cuisine. It is commonly associated with the Mayan Indians who are said to have originally cooked it in a pit oven in the ground.

Finding it in New York City: Cochinita Pibil is on the menu at Zarela in Midtown. The fine representation (above) arrives wrapped in banana leaf with a side of creamy poblano and corn rice. Inside, the juicy, stringy pork cubes are topped with pickled onions, habanero and orange relish.