Featured Restaurant: Baohaus
GutterGourmet — March 10, 2010
The Royal Frush at Baohaus, and a can of Hey Song Sarsparilla Taiwanese Root Beer.
Eddie Huang’s Baohaus on Rivington is attracting Taiwanese (and everyone else) looking for Gua Bao buns—authentic Taiwanese street food.
Huang, a third generation Baozi-maker opened it partially as a tribute to his F.O.B. (“fresh off the boat”) mother, and partially to improve on the City’s Taiwanese steamed bun game. Mostly he wanted to serve New Yorkers, like his buddies at Artichoke (for whom he designed the T-Shirts, and the Led Zeppole logo), something fucking good to eat. With raves from the New York Times, and nods from the Food Network, people are lining up out the door for his real deal Taiwanese street vendor fare.
AlwaysInformed: Dim Sum Deal at Jing Fong
Arthur Bovino — March 09, 2010
Clockwise from top: Jing Fong in Chinatown, Beef and Shrimp Shao Mai, food carts, Tapioca Dessert.
An escalator up a passageway lit by crystal chandeliers spills you out into a vast, gilded dining room filled with blue neon, and table after table. There is a constant chatter in Cantonese, and different smells rising in clouds of steam from carts as they pass through the crowd.
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So it is at Jing Fong Restaurant on Elizabeth Street, the Chinatown dim sum hotspot with an enticing weekday special (left) that should not be forgotten. Just be wary of the small print: “All promotions are subject to change without notice.” A meal can end with haggling the bill as if you had been transported to a market in Hong Kong. Even if you think you may have paid a few extra dollars for being a gweilo (foreigner), you can still walk out feeling as if you are about to burst with dim sum without having spent a fortune. It’s especially fun for a long lunch, if you can get away from the office.
For those who haven’t been, the more adventurous rites of passage include: Chicken Feet with Black Bean Sauce, Boiled Pig Stomach, and Honeycomb Tripe. Everyone seems to find at least one of these dishes enjoyable— at Always Hungry that’s the Tripe (chicken feet involve too much work for too little payoff). It may not be as pretty as some of the versions we love around town, but it’s still good.
AlwaysTraveling: Dim Sum at Hakkasan (Miami Beach, FL)
GutterGourmet — February 26, 2010
Clockwise from top: Honey Roast Pork, Prawn Won Ton, Har Gau, and Seafood Fried Rice.
Restaurant: Hakkasan
Address: 4441 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33140
Hours: Dim Sum Lunch, Sat-Sun, 12:00pm-3:00pm
Contact: (877) 326-7412
Grade: A
Always Hungry Recommends: Grilled Shanghai Dumplings, Steamed Har Gau, Char Siu Bun, Sweet and Sour Prawn Wonton, Chinese Sausage & Fish Shu Mai, Seafood Fried Rice with XO Sauce, Crab E-Mien Noodles, Boneless Roast Duck, Honey Roast Pork
Dim Sum is said to mean “touch of the heart,” or “close to the heart,” so there was no better way to celebrate the convergence of Valentine’s Day and Chinese New Year recently, than to dine at Hakkasan Miami, and experience their Sunday Dim Sum. Though much of the menu consists of mainstays, the quality surpassed the best dim sum I’ve had. That includes the dim sum at the Imperial in Vancouver, Yank Sing in San Francisco, and New York’s Chinatown Brasserie. It even rivals my experiences in Hong Kong.
Steamed Har Gau were pristine and contrasted interestingly with their Sweet and Sour Prawn Wonton counterparts. The Char Siu Bun won the most-often-reordered award, while the Chinese Sausage & Fish Shu Mai were the most aesthetically pleasing. Siew Long Bun were tinier than most soupy buns, making them easier to pop in a single bite (the better to scald your mouth, than squirt your neighbor).
Grilled Shanghai Dumplings were perfect potstickers, though filled with chicken rather than minced pork. The chunks of crab in the Seafood Fried Rice in the always mysterious XO Sauce were only surpassed by the Crab E-Mien Noodles covered with egg white and Grand Marnier Sauce. Traditional Chinese barbecue is my favorite so when the honey roast pork came out I thought I’d died and gone to pig heaven. But shockingly, it was the Boneless Roast Duck that required seconds.
Alan Yau, who created Hakkasan in London, was going to come to the Gramercy Hotel in New York a couple of years ago, but decided not to. New York’s loss was Miami’s gain.
AlwaysPartying: The Year of the Tiger
Arthur Bovino — February 12, 2010
Decorations in Chinatown.
Kung Hei Fat Choi! Congratulations and be prosperous!
We’ve been eating a lot in Chinatown lately. So to honor the Year of the Tiger, we’re sharing some of what we’ve enjoyed and experienced. Like the game-changing Salt and Pepper Squid from Yee Li, the Spicy Pork Jerky form Ling Kee, the exceptional BBQ Pork Banh Mi from Sau Voi, newcomers like Xi’an Famous Foods, and of course, standards like Peking Duck from Peking Duck House.
While by no means a definitive guide to eating all of Chinatown, it is a collection of interesting and noteworthy foods in the neighborhood. They’re worth checking out if you haven’t already visited, and worth returning to if you have. You can also check out previous Chinatown coverage here.
Now, where are our little red packets…Lycee Dow Loi!
Click Here for the Full Slideshow >>
Featured Restaurant: Xi’an Famous Foods
GutterGourmet and Arthur Bovino — February 12, 2010
Clockwise from top: Cumin Lamb Burger, Spicy Pork Spine Noodle Soup, Exterior.
The greeting card and federal holidays have been getting all the love. But this weekend also marks the Chinese New Year: The Year of the Tiger. And if you haven’t yet been to Xi’an’s new satellite, there’s not a more buzzed about place in Chinatown to visit for a meal to bring in the new year.
Xi’an Famous Foods is beneath the Manhattan Bridge near the corner of East Broadway and Forsyth, next to where the original Saigon Bakery used to be (for banh mi trivia experts). There’s as much room for customers as there is for one more person to squeeze into the last car of a Brooklyn-bound L at 1st Ave during rush hour. Stake out the tiny metal counter in the corner, or have a spot to eat nearby in mind. Hint: there are two Starbucks within about eight blocks (111 Worth St and 183 Centre St).
Of course, the dish that put the “Famous” in Xi’an Famous Foods is the incredible Asian cumin spiced lamb “burger” on flat bread. The muttony, powerful, cumin-flavored meat totally delivers on its reputation. The pork “burger” will make you forget about David Chang’s Momofuku buns (for a moment). They’re spectacular and are 50 cents less then the lamb at $2.00 and $2.50, respectively.
For the thrill seeker, there’s the Spicy and Tingly Lamb Face Salad. The cold, fatty, spicy meat has just enough greens mixed in to be put in that category. The Lamb Treasure’s Soup (exactly what you think), and the Stewed Lamb Spine and Rib are also not for the faint of heart. The noodles in the Stewed Lamb Spine Hand-Pulled Noodles in Soup are amazing, and the soup gets better and better as you reach the bottom. If they run out of the lamb spine, try the pig spine— it’s delicious too. Wash it all down with sour Hawberry tea made from the fruit of the Chinese Hawthorne tree and you’ll think you’re in Xi’an City instead of New York City.
What’s in a Name: Peking Duck House
The Gluttoness — October 01, 2009
Just as parents set out to find the perfect name for their newborns, chefs and restaurant owners alike are always searching for the perfect title for their restaurants. Some people go for the obvious, like a relative’s name or a favorite ingredient, but often, there is more to a moniker than meets the eye.
Presentation of Whole Peking Duck from Peking Duck House on Mott Street.
Peking Duck House (view) is a glaring exception to the rule above. Unlike the newly opened Blue Elm, or Xie Xie, or any other restaurant whose name leaves no indication as to what is being served, Peking Duck House wears its product on its signage. If you’re looking for peking duck, then Peking Duck House is the obvious place for you. Fancier than most Chinatown establishments, the white tablecloths and suited waiters set a much more elegant tone than Nice Green Bo’s hurried service, awkward communal seating and sticky plastic tabletops.
Most importantly, the namesake dish is as well-executed as anywhere else in New York City, and at much more affordable prices than fancier Chinese restaurants like Tse Yang or Mr. K’s. An entire Peking Duck, with the traditional fixings costs $40 and this BYOB establishment offers prix-fixe deals for larger parties at $26.50 per person.
We prefer the Mott Street location, but with another restaurant in Midtown, you don’t have to head down to Chinatown. Peking Duck House is perfect for a range of occasions, from birthday dinners and quiet dates to a night out with the kids or impressing out-of-towners. Peking duck lovers need not look any further for their fix. Sometimes the obvious choice is the best one. In this case the sign says it all.
AlwaysInvestigating: New Buns on the Block
The Gluttoness — September 09, 2009
Until now, your best bet for pork buns (not counting Chinatown) was below 14th Street, the Goliaths being, Momofuku Ssäm and Noodle Bar. During the past few months Midtown has sprouted new restaurants that serve Chinese steamed pork buns (char siu bao).
Mantou Chinese Sandwiches, on the East Side (view site), is a sliver of a restaurant specializing in sandwiches on “sesame seed-studded, steamed mantou—a traditional Chinese steamed bread …a staple of Northern Chinese cuisine.” On the West Side is Xie Xie (restaurant page), which is Mandarin for “Thank you.” Xie Xie’s five-item Asian sandwich concept is helmed by Chef Angelo Sosa, who was executive sous-chef at Jean Georges for four years. Both places have a counter for ordering and seating, but these interpretations showcase two styles.
Mantou serves two buns, Spicy Pork or Braised Pork (each costs $3.95). Instead of buying them individually you can opt for the $9.95 Combo Box which includes any two sandwiches with a side salad and shrimp chips. The buns look like Big Mac’s but are soft and luscious like fluffy English muffins.
Mantou’s Braised Pork Bun.
Mantou’s spongy bun envelops thick, tender slices of braised fatty pork. It’s dressed with crunchy slivers of cucumber, cilantro, and hoisin, which ensure fresh well-rounded flavors and juicy sweetness that balance the rich flavor of the salty pork. The first taste (with a little Sambal) was the best. Unfortunately, the next bite included the chewy end of the roast.
AlwaysTraveling: Hakkasan (Miami Beach, FL)
The Gluttoness — July 07, 2009
Some meals are simply unforgettable. Chef Alan Yau, founder of the Wagamama chain of noodle shops, is renowned for elevating Chinese cuisine in the United Kingdom. My dinner at his London restaurant, Hakkasan, was one of those jaw-dropping meals that I’ve always dreamt of reliving. When word came that he would be completing the trio of big name, high-end Chinese restaurants (Philippe and Mr. Chow) setting up on South Beach by bringing Britain’s only Michelin-rated Chinese restaurant across the pond to the Fountainbleu Resort, I booked a trip to Miami before I could pinch myself.
The London location impressed me as dark and seductive, and the new Miami outpost is equally sexy with labyrinthine dining rooms and elaborately carved wooden walls. It’s a theatrical atmosphere and the perfect backdrop for an expansive, creative Cantonese menu that features far-off ingredients like bitter lemon, choi sum, and lily bulb, which even impressed my Chinese dining companion.
Entrées are divided by fish, seafood, poultry and meat. It’s a vast menu sure to please any palate, but a meal at Hakkasan is best begun with a sampling of Dim Sum and the signature Jasmine Tea-Smoked Ribs, which were so fantastically succulent that they separated at the slightest touch of a spoon. Clay Pot Chicken was tender, while the subtle gaminess of Stir-Fry Ostrich offered a welcomed far-off flavor followed by a discriminate dash of spice. From the tequila-laced Pink Mojito to the Hot and Sour Soup and the Pandam Souffle, every taste was as vibrant and boisterous as the restaurant itself.
It’s impossible not to have fun at Hakkasan. It’s much like a Vegas production— an elaborate, Asian-inspired set with seductive dark lighting, calculated nightclub soundtrack and explosive flavors. Hakkasan was a trailblazer in London, and now it’s making its mark on Miami as well.
Restaurant: Hakkasan (view site)
Address: 4441 Collins Ave. (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A-
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Jasmine-Tea Smoked Ribs, Dim Sum, Stiry Fry Ostrich, Sha Cha Chilean Sea Bass, Crispy Szechuan Shredded Ribeye, Chocolate Fondant
SEARCH: Kids Are AlwaysHungry Too
June 19, 2009
Tomorrow kicks off Kids’ Restaurant Week in New York City. From June 20th through June 28th, 32 of the city’s restaurants will be offering special prix fixe children’s menus. Some notable participating restaurants include: Artisanal, BLT Burger, Blue Water Grill, DBGB Kitchen & Bar, Kefi, Otto Enoteca Pizzeria, The Oak Room at the Plaza Hotel and Zarela.
Of course some Manhattan eateries always welcome the younger ones, it’s just a matter of finding them all. For this reason, AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Very Advanced Search has a kid friendly feature that enables you to find the best place to bring the kids without sacrificing a good meal. Clicking “kid friendly,” then searching will provide you with a list of all the city’s children-friendly restaurants.
Of course, you can also just use our Very Advanced Search Engine to find restaurants that serve kid-approved fare. We have included some typical examples below but if your children have more sophisticated tastes, well, you can search those too.
AlwaysQuestioning: Wine Enthusiast’s Sybil Strum
The Gluttoness — June 09, 2009
Ten years after its first event at the Whitney, Wine Enthusiast’s Toast of the Town Grand Tasting is being held on June 15th at the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center. Since its first year the event has spread to San Francisco, Atlanta, and Chicago. There are plans for it to be held in Dallas next year.
We recently spoke with Wine Enthusiast’s CEO, Sybil Strum, who founded the business with her husband. She shared some details with us about life as an oenophile, her favorite food and wine pairings, and of course, what she’s AlwaysHungry for.
Read the full interview with Wine Enthusiast's Sybil Strum >>
AlwaysInvestigating: Eatin’ Dumplings at Eton Dumplings
Lina Mark — May 06, 2009
On an unassuming corner in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, a small storefront houses Eton Dumplings, New York’s ““Best New Dumplings”:http://newyork.timeout.com/articles/eat-out-awards/73190/eat-out-awards-2009-best-new-dumplings-eton,” according to Time Out New York. Inside Eton Dumplings (named for the owner, Eton Chan) there’s not much to the place, but what there is has charm. There are four tables, a couple of counter stools and an open kitchen behind a granite counter. The kitchen is pretty basic: four burners on two hotplates, a steamer and a table where dumplings are formed, Two Hawaiian ice machines next to the register crank out more than 20 flavors of Hawaiian Shave Ice. And that’s all folks. Dumplings and Hawaiian Shave Ice are all they do at Eton Dumplings, but they do it well.
The chalkboard menu shows three kinds of dumplings: pork and beef with cabbage, chicken and mushroom, and vegetable with tofu. There’s also a special dumpling that changes frequently. You can order one kind of dumpling (5/$3.50) but the sampler (3 of each/$6.75) is the obvious move.
The dough is made with a special Chinese flour, which is finer and retains more water than conventional flour. The fillings are made in the morning in large batches, then formed and filled throughout the day. Watching the bandana-wearing dumpling-makers in action—cutting, rolling, filling, and crimping the dumplings— is like watching Oompa-Loompas working in Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. They cook the dumplings to order, first pan-searing them to crisp the bottom skin, then steaming them in the same pan.
Read more about Eton Dumplings and the 25 Dumpling Challenge! >>
Menus Made Simple: Bar Bao
March 11, 2009
To truly be AlwaysHungry, one must fluently speak food in at least five languages, but, as you journey towards enlightenment, there will be times when a menu presents too many obstacles. Enter Menus Made Simple: our way of making sure that you are properly prepared before you go to a restaurant. There is nothing more annoying than asking the waiter a thousand questions. Save yourself the embarrassment.
Rau Ram (aka Vietnamese Coriander or Mint): An herb with narrow, dark green leaves similar in smell to cilantro, with a bitter, peppery flavor and slight essence of mint. It is the essential ingredient in Singapore or Malaysian Laksa.
Spicy Beef Salad with Pomelo, Pineapple, Chilies & Rau Ram Herbs
Ginkgo Nut: The hard-shell kernel from the fruit of the Maidenhair Tree. A persimmon-type fruit surrounds the nuts, which must be removed, and often imparts a disagreeable smell on the nuts. The nuts are then dried, cracked and boiled so the flesh of the nut falls away from the core. Considered a delicacy in China, these ovular, pale yellow nuts are used in both sweet and savory dishes. Their texture is that of a soybean and they have a slightly sweet flavor.
Pandan: Long, bright green leaves from the Pandanus Plant that grows in tropical areas of Asia and the Pacific Islands. They have a sweet taste and nutty aroma and are often pounded, ground or steeped in liquid like coconut milk to best extract the flavors. The leaves are used in both sweet and savory cooking like vanilla flavoring. Pandan can also be purchased as a ready-to-use paste in Asian specialty stores.
Sweet Soup with Gingko Nut, Lotus Seed, Yucca, Coconut & Seaweed Pandan Coconut Broth
Nuoc Cham: Vietnamese dipping sauce with a watery consistency and orangey-brown hue that is often served as a condiment. The basic ingredients include 1 part lemon/lime juice, 1 part fish sauce, 1 part sugar and 2 parts water, and the sauce is prepared hot on a stove so that the sugar can melt. The resulting flavor is sweet and sour but this can change depending upon proportions and additional flavoring additives like soy sauce, chili oil, and/or vinegar.
Crab Spring Rolls with Pork, Shrimp & Jicama & Nuoc Cham Sauce
AlwaysInformed: Socarrat’s Maiden Voyage
The Gluttoness — March 05, 2009
The AlwaysHungry Council of Eaters were perfectly poised to test drive Socarrat’s brand new delivery feature. Eager to see how the actual socarrat would hold up in a delivery container (Philippe Express’ Crispy Beef is rarely crispy), we made it our business to be the first to find out if their normally delicious paella was indeed delivery-friendly. As many of our staff were out on assignment, our first order was a modest one—two orders of Paella de Carne and a single Fideua.
As we hoped, AlwaysHungry’s order was the first, it arrived today at 1:00pm, hand-delivered by Socarrat’s manager, Grant Nathan. When asked if he was nervous about the paella holding up en route—he confidently replied, “We are blessed with a wonderful chef, he knows what to do.”
The Crispy Fideua (pictured left), topped with an ample amount of seafood, unfortunately fell victim to a cardboard like consistency. Although unpleasant, it was unclear whether this was delivery related or not. Conversely, the Paella de Carne (pictured right), chock full of pork, chicken, duck and chorizo, was absolutely delicious. A mushroom soffrito packed it full of flavor, and the varied, well-cooked meats kept this taste train going. The texture of the bomba rice was dead on, but the dish was totally void of the prized socarrat from which they took their name. The sacrifices we make for delivery…
While tasty, the paella was missing its distinct flavor. Maybe it was lacking in saffron, maybe something else, but the taste caused confusion. Jeff thought it tasted like the love child of fried rice and risotto, while I felt it was more like a mixed meat version of Arroz con Pollo. A blind taste test by our next door neighbor yielded “Chicken Tikka Masala,” further demonstrating the collective confusion over the origin of this paella’s indistinguishable taste. Also, at $20 a pop, the portions were very small. The small aluminum containers were quickly devoured in only a few minutes time.
At the end of the day, the maiden voyage of Socarrat’s Paella was not what we expected. The flavor profile threw us off and the bottom could have definitely been crisper, but that being said, it was a very enoyable eating experience that I am sure we will have again. Next time, we will just have to order six of them.
Menus Made Simple: Shang
February 24, 2009
To truly be AlwaysHungry, one must fluently speak food in at least five languages, but as you journey towards enlightenment there will be times when a menu presents too many obstacles. Enter Menus Made Simple: our way of making sure that you are properly prepared before you go to a restaurant. There is nothing more annoying than asking the waiter a thousand questions, and now you can save yourself the embarrassment.
Osmanthi: Flowering plants native to East Asia. The tiny, white flowers bloom every season except winter and have a strong fragrance and floral flavor.
Burdock Root: The root of the burdock plant is best known for its prickly heads that resemble thistles. Burdock is grown in many nations but it is native to Asia where the roots are commonly used in the cuisine. They have a brownish-red outer layer and pale gray flesh inside. The flavor of young burdock root resembles that of an artichoke while older roots tend to become bitter.
Magret Duck Breast with Osmanthi Flower Chili Honey & Braised Burdock Root
Tong Yuan: Eaten in Singapore to celebrate Don Zhi, these gummy dumplings are made from glutinous rice dough that is rolled into marble-sized balls and are often served in soup. The balls are boiled and are ready to eat when they float. Any additional flavor and color can be added to the dough during the kneading process.
Traditional Warm Black Sesame & Peanut Tong Yuan, Grapes, Watercress & Osmanthi Honey Consommé
Water Shield (aka Dollar Bonnet): Perennial, aquatic “herb” with floating oval-shaped leaves that are green on top and reddish-purple underneath with small, light-purple flowers that rise above the surface. Water sheild imparts a light, fresh essence although it has no distinct taste, instead it takes on the flavor of the soup with which it’s often prepared.
Kelp-Marinated Seared Kobe Beef with Pickled Vegetables, Water Shield, Browned Butter Soy & Wasabi
Char Siu (aka Barbequed/Roast Pork): This type of sui mei (Cantonese roast pork) literally translates to “fork roast” after the traditional method of preparation. Long strips of seasoned, boneless pork are skewered with long forks and placed in a covered oven or over a fire. The meat, typically a shoulder, is seasoned with a mixture of honey, five-spice powder, fermented tofu, dark soy sauce, hoisin sauce, red food coloring and sherry or rice wine vinegar which turns the exterior layer of the meat a dark red.
Shaved Char Siu Pork Loin with Hot Mustard Green Bean, Lily Bulb & Almondine Salad
Mantou: A dough made from wheat flour, water and leavening ingredients that is commonly used to make Chinese steamed buns.
Whole Wheat Mantou Bread/Foie Gras & Chicken Liver Pate with Green Onion Pancakes, Wheat Mantou Crisps & Black Currant Jam
Lemon Balm: An herb in the mint family native to Europe and the Mediterranean. The name comes from the leaves’ slight lemon scent and it’s often used as a flavoring element in ice cream and herbal teas.
Crispy Lobster, Salted Duck Egg, Lemon Balm, Shallot & Chili Lime Juice in Lettuce Wrap
Pennywort (aka Brazilian Water Ivy): Bright green-stemmed plants with round leaves and low-growing habits. The plants do not need be rooted and thrive best in aquatic, marshy environments. Their flavor is marked by a slight, bitter tang.
Thin Sliced Octopus with Tomatillo, Tomato Salad & Pennywort Relish
Black & White Tree Ear Mushrooms (aka Wood Ear Mushrooms): These types of mushrooms grow in bunches out of the sides of trees making it look like the trunks have ears. The lobes are meaty and flat on the other end and can get as big as 8” across. These mushrooms are best known and most often used in Asia although they grow in China, Europe and the United States. When fresh, they have a somewhat gummy texture and are translucent in color. When dry, they turn black, but they are the only edible mushroom to have the same flavor and texture when fresh or when dried and reconstituted.
Steamed Soy Spinach Custard with Black & White Tree Ear Mushrooms & Soy Juice
Madai: The name for Japanese red snapper.
Sashimi of Madai poached in Fresh Chicken Coriander Broth
Djan: A Sichuan-style chili sauce.
Smoked Squab Breast & Foie Gras in Lotus Crepes with Savory Bean Djan
Desert Moss: A black and hairy green that grows outside Beijing and has a mushroom-like taste.
Homemade Steamed Tofu Custard with Crab, Shrimp, Lobster, Mussels & Air Dried Scallop, Desert Moss & Tanjin Bouillon
AlwaysLearning: Peking Duck
January 28, 2009
Peking Duck aka Beijing Duck
Arguably China’s most iconic national dish, Peking duck dates all the way back to the 13th Century. But what few realize is that the preparation of an authentic Peking duck requires a strictly regimented process that is controlled from farm to fork.
The Bird
Not only must the birds belong to the Peking breed, they are only allowed a short 60-day lifespan. The first 45 days are spent in ignorant, free-range bliss, while the last 15 are spent in confined seclusion, where the ducks are restricted from exercise and force-fed a pound of grain four times a day. The feeding cycle ensures that the bird’s lean meat will be interspersed with fat in order to achieve maximum tenderness and flavor during the roasting process. After two weeks of non-stop eating, the ducks end up weighing about 5 to 6 pounds (a hefty 35 times their original weight).
The Roasting Process
The duck’s feathers must first be carefully removed (typically by repeatedly dunking the bird in hot water) so that the skin remains perfectly intact. Next, the bird is inflated with air like a balloon; a technique which separates the skin from the fat. The skin is then basted with a sugar solution and hung to dry in a cool, arid spot for at least a day—another secret for tender meat. The ducks are then hung by their necks and roasted inside an open oven, called a “hanging oven,” over fruitwood fire for 40 minutes.
The Carving Ceremony
Part of the attraction of Peking duck lies in the spectacle of its unique presentation and service. The whole roast duck is first presented to the table before it’s butchered table-side. Slices of the duck’s crisp sizzling skin are served first because it is customary to eat the skin while it’s hot. The rest of the bird is sliced into small crescent-shaped pieces—skilled carvers should be able to yield 100-120 thin slices out of a single bird. One way to enjoy the dish is to craft a Chinese duck fajita of sorts, stuffing a thin pancake with skin, meat, hoisin sauce and scallion. If you’re really lucky, the server will offer to make a soup out of the leftover carcass.
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