AlwaysPartying: National Poultry Day
March 19, 2010
The Label Rouge Roasted Chicken Special at Del Posto.
National Poultry Day, a reason to celebrate duck, turkey, and egg dishes everywhere. And of course, chicken. Recently, New York Magazine picked Maialino as having New York’s best roasted chicken. It’s true that it is a great rendition. Jeff has been eating it for lunch on an abnormally regular basis. But, the most incredible chicken we have tasted in the last few months was a Label Rouge Roast Chicken at Del Posto that is on occasion available as a special. This is something that you need to look out for, and our pick for National Poultry Day.
If you’re lucky enough to be dining at Del Posto on a night when the Label Rouge Chicken is being offered as a special— order it. Words like tender, juicy, well-seasoned, they all apply. Yes, it was tender. Like a perfectly-cooked, medium rare pork chop. Juicy, as in, this meat self-bastes-juicy. Salty. Sure, but that good salty— as if suddenly, chicken had a bacon-like quality to it.
AlwaysInvestigating: Chicken Beak-to-Tailfeather
Arthur Bovino — March 11, 2010
The Always Hungry approach to chicken beak-to-tailfeather eating.
From FergusStock and Cabrito to Hakata Tonton, there was a time last year when there seemed to be nose-to-tail eating going on every which way you turned. It involved hearts, tongues, and heads of oxen, pigs, duck, goat and the like, but no chicken. Then someone on the interwebs wrote a post about eating balut (fetal duck embryo), inspiring beak-to-tailfeather eating. Okay, so no one ate any beaks. But we did gather an impressive résumé of tasty chicken offal from restaurants around the City.
AlwaysHungry: The New White Gravy
Maryse Chevrière — February 18, 2010
Fried Chicken Sandwich at Georgia’s with Cheese Grits.
Always Hungry has a tradition of eating outside the box. Fresh lobster tail becomes a topping for bar pizza. Dessert at Momofuku Milk Bar is an exercise in creating the ultimate double-decker ice cream sandwich. At a place known for French dip, a burger gets dunked in hot beef broth. This, my friends, is what we call “the move.” It is how a traditional southern side dish was reincarnated as a decadent sandwich topper at Georgia’s Eastside BBQ.
As has been documented, and recently noted by GutterGourmet, “Georgia’s perfectly fried not-too-greasy, heavily-battered chicken is, for lack of a more perfect description, well, perfect.” The meat is tender and juicy, the coating is golden brown, and audibly crunchy. Recently, to switch things up, we ordered it as a sandwich. The caveman-sized portion of fried chicken dwarfs the toasted bun you’re meant to pick it up with. This is not your average crispy chicken sandwich.
Delicious as it was, something was missing. The lone melted Kraft Single did not add much value to the flavor profile. Enter Cheese Grits: the new White Gravy. Georgia’s Cheese Grits and Bacon are a regular special on a menu of rotating sides. But the combination of Cheddar and Monterrey Jack cheeses, and salty bacon are enough to make it as a stand-alone dish. In this application it morphs into a creamy, savory sauce that finds its way into all the nooks and crannies of the crispy batter. It’s a messy beast of a Southern sandwich that you won’t be able to put it down— nor will you want to.
Top 5: Chicken Liver
January 15, 2010
Chopped or smooth, with accoutrements or not, New York has some spectacular chicken liver.
Chicken Liver comes in many forms, the major ones being chopped, pâté, and crostini di fegato. New York has always had a wealth of renditions, but recently, gourmet incarnations seem to be popping up more and more. Regardless of the distinctions involved in their preparation, Always Hungry’s Top 5 Chicken Liver list represents the best in New York.
Click here to find out Always Hungry’s Top 5 Chicken Liver.
Have an idea for a Top 5? We’d love to hear from you. Go to the bottom of a Top 5 page and enter your suggestion into the “Suggest a Top 5” field along with your rankings and your email address.
AlwaysHolidays: The Twelve Days of Christmas
Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — December 25, 2009
AlwaysHungryNY.com’s ‘Twelve Days of Christmas’ Food Tree.
To celebrate Christmas, here’s the full food carol version of ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, featuring some of the great dishes we tasted in 2009 that we’re willing to sing about. Happy Holidays!
On the twelfth day of Christmas my waiter brought to me…
Twelve beets for eating,
Eleven tasty smoked things,
Ten gourds a-heaping,
Nine pies a-twirling,
Eight, made with milk-in,
Seven soups worth sipping,
Six eggs for feasting,
Five on-ion rings.
Chicks from four birds,
Three fried ‘French hens,’
Two desserts for two,
And Felidia’s pear ravioli.
AlwaysHolidays: On the Fourth Day of Christmas
Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — December 15, 2009
Technically, the Twelve Days of Christmas don’t start until Christmas Day, but we’re already in the holiday spirit. So to celebrate over the next eight days, we’ll bring you the classic carol, ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, with thematic dishes we’d be willing to sing about.
Four Calling Birds. What are calling birds anyway? They’re supposedly the Evangelists: Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John; or their Gospels. “Calling birds,” are also said to be an Americanization of the English name for blackbirds, “colly birds.” Not sure about you, but we haven’t eaten any blackbirds lately. Instead we focused on chicken dishes from four restaurants whose names include a bird.
Today, our Christmas food carol begins:
On the fourth day of Christmas, my waiter brought to me… chicks from four birds,
Clockwise from top left: Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken’s Fried Chicken, Mad for Chicken’s Korean Fried Chicken, Little Owl’s Crispy Chicken, and from Dirty Bird, Rotisserie Chicken.
AlwaysHolidays: On the Third Day of Christmas…
Arthur Bovino and Maryse Chevrière — December 14, 2009
Technically, the Twelve Days of Christmas don’t start until Christmas Day, but we’re already in the spirit. To celebrate over the next nine days, here’s the carol, ‘The Twelve Days of Christmas’ AlwaysHungry-style, featuring some dishes we tasted in 2009 that we’d be willing to sing about.
Three French Hens. What can we say? We like our French birds a little crispy. Fried chicken is one of the city’s many food trends du jour, but right now, we’re all about these three.
Thus, our Christmas food carol would go:
On the third day of Christmas, my waiter brought to me… three fried French hens,
From left: barMasa’s Garlic Chicken Karaage, Buttermilk Channel’s Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Cheddar Waffles, and Momofuku Noodle Bar’s Southern-style and Korean-style Fried Chicken.
And the rest of the carol would go:
Two desserts for two,
And Felidia’s pear ravioli.
AlwaysHungry: Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken
Arthur Bovino — December 02, 2009
Top, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken. Exterior and meat cross-section
There had been some reports, but since reopening in mid-October, Charles’ Country Pan Fried Chicken (view) had been getting surprisingly little love, until today’s $25 & Under, that is.
Indeed, Charles Gabriel’s Harlem buffet is back in business, and it was great to see it get some play today. But one thing in Dave Cook’s article struck an odd chord, “The result is a thin, crisp crust encasing meat that’s juicy but never greasy; each piece is luscious and flavorful through and through.”
We happened to eat at Charles’ on Sunday evening (mac & cheese, black-eyed peas, okra and tomato, and collard greens, thank you very much), and it’s true that the meat is juicy— it’s the kind of fried chicken you and your dinner companion each take a bite of then look at each other and silently nod in now-that’s-what-I’m-talking-about unison. But “never greasy?” Oh, it’s greasy, all right. It’s take one bite, don’t let go of the glistening chicken and you’ve somehow already managed to get smudges on your glasses greasy.
And that’s a good thing. This is fried chicken we’re talking about— we want there to be some grease.
AlwaysInformed: Pera’s Meat on a Stick
November 17, 2009
Left to right, Pera’s Chicken Adana and Lamb Adana.
If you’ve ever found yourself scouring the grocery store for that perfect piece of pre-packaged meat on a stick, the folks from Pera Mediterranean Brasserie (view) have come to the rescue.
The Midtown restaurant has made their delicious Mediterranean lamb and chicken preparations available in ready-to-cook packages for purchase on their website (above, $11.95/each). The site features two other skewered meats products (Lamb Loin and Chicken “Shish”), as well as Lamb Ribs and a Lamb Burger—with the promise of more to come.
Crack open the Cryovac and enjoy.
DishDoppelgänger: Sorella and McDonald’s
Arthur Bovino — November 16, 2009
Left, Sorella’s Crispy Veal Sweetbreads. Right, McDonald’s Chicken McNuggets (10 piece).
You know you’ve been caught looking at celebrity look-alike features in tabloids on the supermarket line or when surfing online. Well, we’re applying the concept to well-known dishes and others that resemble them. And why not, for those of us interested in food, Thomas Keller’s Oysters and Pearls dish is just as iconic as Jay Leno’s chin. As soon as a doppelgänger dish emerges, you better believe we’ll spot it.
Sorella’s Crispy Veal Sweetbreads with Quince Bacon Marmalade.
Just to be clear, Sorella (view) is wonderful. There’s the crisp, salted Grissini. The Pate de Fegato with its half inch spread of creamy chicken liver mousse. Another favorite are the perfectly seasoned, Crispy Veal Sweetbreads with Quince Bacon Marmalade ($11.00). They’re the ballpark rendition of sweetbreads. They feature a cornmeal-like crust that’s gritty in a good way. But someone has to say it: as unlikely a comparison as it may seem at first, Sorella’s sweetbreads and their sweet, musty sauce, trigger a taste recall of McDonald’s (view) Chicken McNuggets.
AlwaysInvestigating: Different Diavolos
The Gluttoness — October 23, 2009
“The Devil’s Chicken” at dell’anima left, and Lupa.
Pollo al Diavolo is popularly known as “The Devil’s Chicken,” a reference that reflects this dish’s characteristically fiery flavor. But spiciness is a broad and subjective descriptor. Two of Manhattan’s standout renditions set the tongue aflame, but approach their heat from two different schools of spice.
dell’anima’s (view) Pollo “al diavolo” ($20.00) is one of the premiere chicken dishes in town. On the menu since opening day, the all-natural, air-chilled Giannone chicken is seasoned with smoked paprika, fennel pollen and chili flakes and served with broccoli rabe and garlic. The spices are applied directly to both sides of the chicken and the authoritative heat is matched by a distinct smokiness. Taste aside, what truly elevates this dish is the impeccably crisp skin of the gilded, pan-seared bird.
Lupa’s (view) Pollo alla Diavola ($19.00) commands a different breed of heat. Marinated for 24 hours in olive oil, black pepper and lemon, the breastbone is removed after the chicken is roasted. A comprehensive coating of crushed black pepper and chili flake creates a hearty, seasoned crust for the juicy meat. Instead of the lingering, back-of-the-throat heat typical of red pepper, the peppercorn-encrusted flesh is abrasive on the tongue.
Both dishes showcase chicken at its finest. Just be sure to have water handy. Actually, wine will do.
Featured Restaurant: The Harrison
The Gluttoness — October 20, 2009
All-Natural Chicken with Roasted Lemon, Garlic and Potato Purée, $24.00.
When I first moved to Manhattan, I lived in Chelsea, and before I was immersed in the restaurant business, my instant go-to spot was The Red Cat. From the rustic decor reminiscent of the Hamptons, to the thoughtful American cuisine that was simple with refined subtleties, it was perfection. And the tempura green beans got me every time. When I moved to TriBeCa, I was thrilled to have a Jimmy Bradley stalwart in my neighborhood again, even if the fast-paced world of culinary journalism had me rushing around to newer restaurants rather than just enjoying a meal at The Harrison (view).
The bustling ambiance makes The Harrison feel like a grown-up version of The Red Cat, grander in size, but with the same homey sensibility. The eclectic American menu is more expansive than the one uptown, and executive chef, Amanda Freitag’s impressively composed cuisine speaks for itself. Her thick-cut pork chop is just as stellar as The Red Cat’s. And just look at that beautiful chicken. Every bite from every dish had me kicking myself that I hadn’t visited sooner.
Julienned beets and toasted pistachios composed a mountainous salad over a bed of creamy robiolina cheese. Lamb ragu was tossed with soft, house-made chitarra, which was enhanced by a dollop of ricotta and a fresh sprinkle of mint. Skate strayed from American cuisine— the cauliflower was seasoned with curry and paired with sweet golden raisins. And that chicken. It’s the kind of preparation that demonstrates chicken doesn’t need more than crisp skin, moist flesh and good seasoning to be insanely delicious. Sure a few slices of roasted lemon and a luxuriously silky pomme purée don’t hurt either.
And my favorite tempura string beans? Well, I’ve got three new favorite words: Duck Fat Fries.
See new pictures of food at The Harrison on its restaurant page here.
AlwaysPartying: International Cuisine Day
Arthur Bovino — October 02, 2009
Epicurious.com Editor-in-Chief, Tanya Wenman Steel’s, Peachy Keen Chicken and Edamame Succotash.
Epicurious Entertains NYC’s International Cuisine Day featured four demonstrations, two by notable chefs, Michael Psilakis and Marcus Samuelsson. Epicurious.com’s Editor-in-Chief, Tanya Wenman Steel (right, with two audience volunteers) filled in for L.A-based chef David Myers by preparing two recipes from her cookbook. There was also a beer cocktail demonstration by Epicurious.com’s Executive Editor (and in-house drinks specialist), James Oliver Cury. A few notes and observations from the event follow.
AlwaysFresh: A Day at Stone Barns
Michelle Kiefer — October 02, 2009
Tomorrow at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture is their Sixth Annual Harvest Fest, a community celebration of the farm at its most fruitful. As our Calendar notes, family-friendly festivities will include live music, a farm market, hayrides and games from 10:00am to 3:00pm. Here is a beautiful piece about a day spent at Stone Barns by Michelle Kiefer, an AlwaysHungryNY.com contributor.
Top, Stone Barns Farm. Bottom left, Raspberry Coffee Cake. Right, Blue Hill Café.
As fantastic as a meal is at Blue Hill at Stone Barns (restaurant page) it’s not something everyone can afford. But as a recent visit demonstrated, you don’t have to splurge to have a great time eating and experiencing Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture (view site). And it’s closer than you think, just a forty-five minute drive or a thirty-five minute ride from Grand Central to Tarrytown on the Hudson Line’s express train followed by a 10-minute, $12 cab ride to the farm.
OnlyLook: Mother Burger
Arthur Bovino — September 30, 2009
Mother Burger’s Bacon Cheeseburger w/Applegate Farms’ Organic Sunday Bacon $8.50.
You know you should be suspicious when servers at a restaurant with ‘burger’ in the name suggest everything except the burger. That happened at Mother Burger (view site) in the plaza behind One Worldwide Plaza in Midtown when we were recently invited for dinner.
The large, open courtyard should be an ideal setting for drawing office coworkers when the whistle blows. Blockheads Burritos co-owners (and brothers), Don and Ken Sofer, must have had a similar thought when they recently signed their 10-year lease. With outdoor seating, $2.00 beer specials, blue skies, recession-friendly prices and hormone-free and organic meats, there’s reason to be hopeful, albeit skeptical when sitting down to the free peanuts.
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