Top 5: Tarte Flambée

May 27, 2009

Our quest for the city’s best Tarte Flambée was inspired by the Flambé Pizza, a version of the savory Alsatian appetizer at Co., and immediately hit a snag with a disappointing rendition at The Bar Room @ The Modern. Named “flambée,” because it was originally baked by flames in a wood-burning oven, the crust is typically charred and topped with bacon, onions and crème fraîche. Like most traditional dishes, there are countless preparation methods. Some recipes substitute fromage blanc for crème fraîche, some call for puff pastry, others use thin, pizza-like dough, and then there is the debate as to whether the onions should be added raw, lightly sautéed or totally caramelized.

For the sake of our Top 5, the overarching ranking factor considered by the CORE was flavor. Click here to see our Top 5 Tarte Flambée.

AlwaysHungryNY: JoeDoe’s Conflicted Jew

The Gluttoness — May 21, 2009

With a sandwich named the Conflicted Jew, it was only a matter of time before the CORE descended upon the Lower East Side’s JoeDoe. The name of this Sammy may be tongue-in-cheek, but it actually showcases liver (tongue is reserved for the Philly Cheese Tongue). Billed as their “classic liver, bacon and onion sandwich,” the conflict in The Conflicted Jew, is obviously the fact that while a liver and onion sandwich is inherently Jewish, Bacon is not kosher.

The sandwich is served in quarters with an apple dipping sauce. Its highlight, the bread, is at turns eggy and crisp like French Toast. “The Conflict” inside wasn’t much of a struggle— the bacon should have been crisper and the liver needed more seasoning. For such a great name, the sandwich wasn’t as amazing as we had hoped, but still a pleasurable experience. The first two quarters are fun to eat and definitely worth trying but we just can’t imagine someone saying, “I’m so in the mood for JoeDoe’s ‘The Conflicted Jew’ right now.”

Even if they were, we’d be surprised if they could finish it. This is the kind of sandwich that you’d enjoy tasting for kicks because of its name and afterwards only to introduce it with a wink to your friends.

Featured Dish: Mexican Radio’s Nachos

The Gluttoness — May 19, 2009

The CORE loves nachos, but there’s a fundamental issue of uneven topping distribution in most presentations we’ve come across. Most often, you’ll get a giant stack of tortilla chips with a healthy top layer of ingredients. But each ingredient rarely ends up together on every “chip, and after the first few bites clear away some of the toppings, you end up with a pile of naked tortilla chips underneath. You are lucky if a few straggling black beans manage to slip through the cracks.

Mexican Radio has figured out a solution, and the result is not only aesthetically impressive but profoundly flavorful. Individual tortilla chips are laid out much like slices of a pie, one next to the other in a circular composition around a pile of chopped lettuce and sliced, pickled jalapeños. Each chip is evenly coated with an adequate layer of melted cheese and warm black beans and the jalapeño slices in the center allow you to control the spiciness of each nacho. Decorative swirls of crèma and hot sauce create a bulls-eye presentation, which guarantees that each bite is perfect.

It’s difficult to imagine ever eating nachos any other way again.

AlwaysHungryNY: Kurve & Basta Pasta Asian Pastas

The Hungry Goat — May 18, 2009

Drawing inspiration from foreign cuisines and cooking techniques is part of what chefs do. But what to make of Basta Pasta, a Japanese-run Italian restaurant serving Spaghetti with Tobiko, and Kurve, a contemporary Thai restaurant, dishing up an Asian spin on Carbonara?

Basta Pasta
Spaghetti con Uova di Pesce (Spaghetti with Tobiko & Shiso, $15)

This dish arrives steaming with the smell of the sea. Its clean, focused flavors and simple presentation is the first indicator of classic Japanese technique. The spaghetti was cooked the way it’s supposed to be cooked— just a touch past al dente. These silky threads were dressed in a light oil-based sauce, which made them very slurpable. The dish was covered with Shiso leaf chiffonade and was abound with Tobiko. The jewel-toned orange roe pop all over your mouth with each bite, releasing tiny bursts of sea essence that aren’t fishy in the least. This is a great sushi-lover’s pasta.

Kurve
Spaghetti Carbonara with Bacon & Thai Basil ($12)

Save the presence of pork (in the form of bacon) and pasta, there’s nothing really Carbonara-ish about this pasta. Rather than being smooth, the sauce was mealy, like a pesto. And indeed, there is something nutty about the flavor, but it’s derived from the overall texture created by a combination of all ingredients. Large pieces of salty bacon added crunch, and fiery, dried chilis provided texture and a powerful spicy kick. The result is odd in a way only Kurve knows how to be—odd because somehow, it works. You spend the first four bites figuring it out, then suddenly, you’re picking at stray pieces of bacon and pepper, wondering what just happened and craving more. Sure, the pasta is slightly overcooked, and the sauce is puzzling, but for spice lovers, it has an inescapable pull.

After tasting these dishes we’re not exactly sure anymore who’s making what with which influences, but with such successful executions, being confused is an acceptable state of existence.

AlwaysInvestigating: Philly vs. NY Soft Pretzels

The Gluttoness — May 14, 2009

I’ve never had the physical evidence to back up an assertion I’ve made many times: New York City’s street vendor soft pretzels don’t hold a candle to Philadelphia’s soft pretzels. During a recent trip to Philly I made a point of going to the Philly Pretzel Factory to bring back proof.

The Philly Pretzel Factory’s slogan is, “Real Pretzels Travel in Packs.” Stumped? Philadelphia soft pretzels come in sheets, usually rows of ten. They’re long and narrow, like squashed New York City pretzels with thicker ropes. During baking, the sides adhere to each other as they expand, creating the sheet effect (right). Enough about aesthetics— let’s focus on taste.

from left: Philly Soft Pretzel, New York Street Vendor Pretzel

Since I grew up in Philadelphia, I turned to two impartial members of the CORE:

CORE Member, The Hungry Goat:
“Philadelphia Soft Pretzels are much denser, the salt MAKES this pretzel. It’s tough and very chewy, especially the outer layer, and I wish it was softer. As far as New York pretzels go, bigger is not better. While I prefer the texture of the NY pretzel, the dough is totally bland, and there is not enough salt to make up for the lack of seasoning. It’s like eating something that has the flavor of a water cracker but in doughier form.”

CORE Member, Arthur Bovino:
“I’ve got New York pride so I’m loathe to cede ANYTHING to Philadelphia and I mean anything (I’m not even a Mets fan). So it really makes me mad that even with the significant advantage of being just bought from a vendor before I ate it, New York soft pretzels lost out to day-old Philly ones that sat overnight in a fridge. The charcoal smokiness I enjoy smelling as it wafts from the New York pretzel street carts during the winter isn’t enjoyable to taste and not only were the exteriors undersalted but they were somehow dry on the inside too. The Philly pretzel was properly salted, still moist and tasted like I remember enjoying soft pretzels as a kid. In the name of all things NY-pretzel-holy, somebody do something, please.”

Philadelphia pretzels are also a better deal wallet-wise. At the Philly Pretzel Factory, ten pretzels cost $3.00. Two pretzels from a New York City vendor cost $4.00. No contest—Philly wins.

Perfect Bite: The Ditch Dog

The Gluttoness — May 13, 2009

AlwaysHungryNY exalts the concept of the ‘perfect bite,’ the combination of an excellent dish’s best flavor elements (how many components depends on the dish) to achieve flavor maximization. The true power move at any restaurant is to take this concept to the next level: integrating the best elements from several excellent dishes to create the supreme perfect bite.

The concept was formalized during a steak dinner. The steak was delicious, but it was the juicy bite of steak topped with creamed spinach, mashed potato and fried onions that was, well, perfect. The CORE is obsessed with creating the perfect bite for every meal.

Now, while we are often forced to carefully consider flavor combinations as we stack our tines high with meticulously constructed mouthfuls, some dishes do all the work for us. Take something that may sound revolting at first, Ditch Plains’ Ditch Dog ($14).

Click here for more about the Ditch Dog and the "Perfect Bite" >>

AlwaysInvestigating: Hungry Hippos Eat “The Hippo”

The Gluttoness — May 13, 2009

The last time the CORE chose a place to eat based on the word ‘hippo,’ it led to a meal at Fat Hippo, and a disastrous review. Undeterred on our quest to find all things high-quality Hippo, we set out to test a grilled chicken Churrasco, called, “The Hippo” at Island Burgers & Shakes.

This hole-in-the-wall joint occupies a narrow space decorated with surfboard shaped cutouts and lined with circular, ketchup and mustard colored tables. Ironically, it’s the plate-wide churrascos, not the burgers, which the restaurant’s sign promotes. There are more than fifty different topping combinations available for Island Burger’s plate-wide sandwiches, from the Cordon Bleu (ham and swiss on sourdough) to the Tijuana (bacon, jack cheese, guacamole and onion). All are available on over-sized burgers and on Churrascos with lettuce, onions and pickles. You can opt to build your own sandwich using the list of extras (for example, blackened chicken with bayou mayonnaise) and choose between buns (sesame, pita, Pullman sourdough, dark rye or ciabatta).

“The Hippo,” an open-faced churrasco, is a butterflied, grilled chicken breast topped with curried sour cream, bacon, cheddar, onion, scallion and guacamole. Like the animal after which it’s named, the sandwich is tremendous— the poor pita could barely handle the chicken, let alone the wealth of toppings. It seemed to scream out, “Set me free!”

In order to create a workable sandwich, the chicken needed to be cut. The first bite was an overwhelming creamy mess of sour cream and guacamole. A more carefully constructed bite featuring every element was much better. The mishmash of flavors was good, but it really came down to a tug-of-war between the curry and the guacamole. Surprisingly, the bacon disappeared in the madness—never a good thing. The lingering curry flavor ultimately won.

Our verdict? The sandwich tasted very good, but structurally it has problems. The heavy sauces make the pita soggy and too easy to rip— something two slices of Pullman sourdough bread would easily fix. Though there is room for improvement, this is definitely a Hippo that we would play with.

AlwaysHungryNY: The Cardinal Club

The Gluttoness — May 11, 2009

Ever invited friends over for dinner, cooked them a fantastic meal and bathed in their rave reviews, seriously considering charging for your food as they suggest? We recently dined at the home of one entrepreneurial couple who followed through on the idea. You may have heard of this before. The New York Times called similar dinners, anti-restaurants. The couple, Simon & Paula (both 27), who prepared our meal, call their kitchen turned restaurant, The Cardinal Club. Running a dinner club was a natural evolution considering the couple’s passion for food and the hosting capabilities their garden apartment allows them. Inspired by Spring and an incredible meal that Jeff had attended at the club the week before, he insisted that the CORE return to experience this special place.

The couple named their dinner club for the cardinals that frequent their backyard. They transformed their ample garden into a clandestine dining sanctuary where friends can enjoy a leisurely meal in a homey, relaxing environment—an amazing alternative to the chaos of dining out in New York City. The warm glow of the romantic garden was compliments of Christmas lights and candles. There were plants, trees and flowers, but also fresh herbs, grown for use in Cardinal Club meals. Inside, a vintage record player spun an eclectic mix of tunes, from South African jazz like Startime with the Dark City Sisters to Ghostface Killah’s Supreme Clientele. You couldn’t help but instantly feel blessed to be aware of this hidden gem.

To keep the Cardinal Club private, Simon and Paula (both graduates of NYU’s Tisch School of the Arts), only serve one party per evening (up to 6 guests fit comfortably) and all groups must be recommended by former diners. Diners can choose to have three to six course menus. The cost per person is: $50 for three courses, $60 for four courses, $75 for five courses and $90 for six courses. Every menu is ingredient-driven and relies on French execution. The dinners are always BYOB, so we brought two different sangrias, made using AlwaysHungryNY recipes.

Simon, our cook for the evening, acquired his culinary experience at one of the first acclaimed French restaurants in the Southwest, Vincent on Camelback, in Phoenix, Arizona. Simon learned a lot while working there under Chef Vincent Guerithault, but he is still largely self-taught. He has an impeccable knack for combining seasonal and seldom-used ingredients. He thoroughly sources ingredients from the Union Square Green Market, specialty restaurant suppliers and renowned purveyors. He gets his meat from Esposito’s Pork Store, and his fish from The Lobster Place, for example.

Paula, our Argentinean-bred hostess served us consummately—lighting candles and refilling drinks. She even went the extra measure by serving things on a silver platter. While she doesn’t participate in the cooking, her South American background surely influences his cuisine.

Click here for the Dish-by-Dish >>

Top 5: Mexican Corn

May 11, 2009

Sure, we’re prematurely excited for summer, but we can’t help it. BBQ, bathing suits and sweet corn are right around the corner. Musing about corn, the CORE (Council of Real Eaters) members started discussing Mexican Corn. Elote, as it’s known, is no longer simply a side dish. It can be a barometer of a good Mexican restaurant. A flavorful preparation usually requires grilling, then blanketing the corn with some type of Mexican cheese (like cotija), and a sprinkling of heat (chili powder) or other smoky spices. Some variations include slathering on mayonnaise or a flavored aioli. That’s fine, just don’t forget to squeeze the lime!

Click here to see our Top 5 Mexican Corn.

AlwaysInvestigating: The Creamy Side of Eel

May 08, 2009

What are the chances that two CORE (Council of Real Eaters) members would eat two particularly decadent, creamy, unexpected eel dishes on one night?

Very slim, which is why that we just couldn’t keep to ourselves:

1) L’Atelier de Robuchon in the Four Seasons Hotel, serves L’Anguille: Caramelized Eel Layered with Smoked Foie Gras.

CORE Founder, Jeff Zalaznick:

“I had forgotten how incredible this dish was. It truly showcases a high-level of pure French and Japanese fusion. The terrine-like composition combines Japanese-style eel with French-style foie gras. This decadent dish is characteristically Robuchon in its sophistication of both presentation and flavor— flawless execution of sweet caramelization, smoky and savory.”

2) Poke, a sushi restaurant on the Upper East Side, has a Dancing Roll: Eel and Avocado on the outside and Cream Cheese and Avocado inside.

CORE Member, Arthur Bovino:

“I don’t normally enjoy eel or cream cheese in my sushi, but I was honestly delighted. It wasn’t overly sweet and the mix of texture and taste with the soft, warm rice made for a winning combination. The avocado furthered the creaminess, but was incidental to the eel/cream cheese combination.”

That’s right, two creamy eel compositions on one stormy night. That’s how the CORE gets down.