AlwaysPartying: National Cheese Lovers Day

January 20, 2010

A few of our favorite cheesy dishes.

Today, January 20th, is National Cheese Lovers Day. From our favorite breads and sandwiches to multi-borough quests and cheese cave internships, Always Hungry’s love for all things fromage has certainly been well-documented. For your viewing pleasure, we have organized by category some of the best and most interesting cheese dishes we’ve enjoyed recently.

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AlwaysHungry: New York’s Great Bread Baskets

The Gluttoness — November 02, 2009

Complimentary bread basket at Bar Americain.

Complimentary bread baskets are a beautiful thing, they’re the reason why AlwaysHungryNY.com has a Worth-It Bread option in its Advanced Search Engine. After all, who doesn’t love free stuff? Well actually, Frank Bruni for one. Remember?

“If restaurateurs charged for bread, might those of us who hanker for bread on a given night end up with better bread as a result of the restaurant being able to treat it — and, indeed, being forced to treat it — like any other menu item?”

Maybe. But charging for bread could just as easily mean diners would be paying for the same mediocre bread baskets that used to be free. Regardless, the restaurants featured below already serve some of the best bread in New York City. A warm, fresh French baguette is a simple delight, but these baskets go above and beyond the call of carbohydrate duty. BLT Prime’s steamy, sea-salted popovers are inspiration in themselves to have a steak dinner whether or not you’re in the mood. And while Del Posto and Commerce operate out of disproportionately sized kitchens, both serve some of the best bread in town. We won’t even go into the famed lardo that Del Posto serves with theirs.

From tomato-dressed focaccia to buttered buns and French gougères, the bread baskets in the slideshow below really made it difficult to exhibit self control. Whether the bread was assorted, as at Bar Americain or purely in the style of the restaurant’s cuisine, as at Beyoglu, each basket was delicious in its own right—although they all tasted even better since they were on the house.

Go ahead, ask for seconds. We won’t tell.

AlwaysFresh: The New Amsterdam Market

Michelle Kiefer — September 17, 2009

Beautiful handmade pastas made by The Ravioli Store in Long Island City.

We really enjoyed wandering through the debut of the third annual New Amsterdam Market (view site) this past Sunday on South Street by the Seaport, and not just because of all the free samples of bread, chocolate and sausages. If you haven’t been yet, you have to check it out. There are more than 70 vendors selling everything from farm fresh produce to baked goods and cooked foods in the bustling atmosphere of legendary public market halls like London’s Borough Market.

You’ll be pleased to come across familiar names like Marlow & Sons, Saxelby Cheesemongers, and Sullivan Street Bakery as well as newcomers like Basis, which Grub Street noted is planning to open a retail store late fall, and Saltie, former chef Caroline Fidanza’s (Marlow & Sons and Diner) takeout spot/bakery, which is slated to open tomorrow in Williamsburg (378 Metropolitan Ave).

If you missed the market check out our great pictures, then get down there from 11am to 4pm on one of the next three remaining dates (10/25, 11/22 and 12/20).

Featured Dish: Da Andrea’s “Le Tigelle”

The Gluttoness — September 10, 2009

“Le Tigelle,” Composed Flat Bun with ‘Parma’ Imported Prosciutto at Da Andrea off Union Square.

When you think pork buns, it’s the Asian version, Char Siu Bao, which most likely comes to mind. But the next time you’re craving a swine sandwich there’s a decidedly Italian option at Da Andrea (restaurant page). Forced to relocate from Hudson to 13th Street, their signature baked-to-order Flat Buns with ‘Parma’ Imported Prosciutto ($11.00) have found a larger audience in their new digs.

Da Andrea’s chef-owner, Gian Pietro Branchi, modeled this dish on “Le Tigelle Modenesi,” an appetizer he said you will typically find in Modena, Italy, the region of Emilia-Romagna which inspires much of his restaurant’s cuisine. In Modena, he said, the buns are usually served with a variety of cold cuts like Salami, Coppa and Mortadella (similar to the accompaniments in Via Emilia’s Gnocco Fritto). But the chef chose to serve just prosciutto (give the customer too many options and things get complicated). Each order is displayed on a wooden tray covered with a generous layer of “prosciutto crudo di parma,” a stack of seven piping hot buns and a small ramekin of grated Parmesan. All are combined to create the ultimate Italian-style pork bun.

The flat buns resemble silver dollar flapjacks, although their crisp, browned exteriors are nothing like the outside of a pancake. Once sliced open, fragrant steam emerges from the soft doughy insides— the perfect melting ground for a spoonful of Parmesan cheese. The marbled fat of the thinly sliced prosciutto also benefits from the warmth— the natural oils infuse the thin buns with robust flavor. The saltiness of the cheese and cured meat provide ample seasoning and with a little applied pressure you can create an instant prosciutto panino.

Whether you’re looking to savor a quick bite with a glass of wine or use these buns as the ultimate bread basket, this simple, do-it-yourself dish is a delicious, addictive experience. The only place you’re likely to find a better bite is in Modena, where it’s usually served with rosemary and garlic lardo.

AlwaysInvestigating: New Buns on the Block

The Gluttoness — September 09, 2009

Until now, your best bet for pork buns (not counting Chinatown) was below 14th Street, the Goliaths being, Momofuku Ssäm and Noodle Bar. During the past few months Midtown has sprouted new restaurants that serve Chinese steamed pork buns (char siu bao).

Mantou Chinese Sandwiches, on the East Side (view site), is a sliver of a restaurant specializing in sandwiches on “sesame seed-studded, steamed mantou—a traditional Chinese steamed bread …a staple of Northern Chinese cuisine.” On the West Side is Xie Xie (restaurant page), which is Mandarin for “Thank you.” Xie Xie’s five-item Asian sandwich concept is helmed by Chef Angelo Sosa, who was executive sous-chef at Jean Georges for four years. Both places have a counter for ordering and seating, but these interpretations showcase two styles.

Mantou serves two buns, Spicy Pork or Braised Pork (each costs $3.95). Instead of buying them individually you can opt for the $9.95 Combo Box which includes any two sandwiches with a side salad and shrimp chips. The buns look like Big Mac’s but are soft and luscious like fluffy English muffins.

Mantou’s Braised Pork Bun.

Mantou’s spongy bun envelops thick, tender slices of braised fatty pork. It’s dressed with crunchy slivers of cucumber, cilantro, and hoisin, which ensure fresh well-rounded flavors and juicy sweetness that balance the rich flavor of the salty pork. The first taste (with a little Sambal) was the best. Unfortunately, the next bite included the chewy end of the roast.

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AlwaysTraveling: Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo (São Paulo, Brazil)

Arthur Bovino — September 08, 2009

Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo

Restaurant: Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo
Address: Rua Haddock Lobo, 1408, São Paulo, SP, 01414-002, Brazil (salghadhinos and a cloth-covered basket on top filled with warm goodness. Rich, sunglass-wearing women rub elbows at the counter with anyone who has a few reais to spend on what are the best pão de queijo in the city, if not the country.

Part of what’s so good about this place is how fresh everything is— literally just from the oven. Every fifteen minutes, fresh pão de queijo is brought out front and placed in the basket, usually by Tiao, the ever-smiling baker with the white hat who is a local celebrity. The fresh pão don’t stay in the basket long, there’s usually a line of businessmen, children, tourists and housewives who have staked out the counter. Unlike typical renditions, these are not domed. Instead, they’re misshapen and elongated. And while they’re made with cassava flour according to traditional methods, they are very light and their texture is unique— more like a cross between pão de queijo and biscuits from the American South. They’re like warm, cheesy, slightly stretchy biscuits with a slight crunch on the outside.

The coxinha is just as addictive. Some have attributed the attraction to “its crunch, unlike any candy bar.” While it’s true that this delicate exterior is superb, it’s the center that’s truly amazing. If chicken were candy without being sweet, this would be it. The meat is delicately shredded, as if done by hand, and it’s moist, as though it was just cooked, battered and fried moments ago. Add your dash of hot sauce with each bite, down some espresso and don’t expect to eat anywhere else after because once you’ve tasted one of each, you’ll be gobbling up several more.

Coxinha at Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo.

Pão de Queijo, fresh from the cloth-covered basket.

AlwaysLearning: Pão de Queijo

Arthur Bovino — September 04, 2009

Pão de Queijo in Astoria at New York Pão de Queijo, $1.75.

Pão de Queijo (pronounced, pow de KAY-ju, with a nasal ‘ow’) is an addictive, gluten-free, South American salgadinho.

Where it’s from: Pão de Queijo is one of many different salgadhinos (snacks), like Coxinha and Pastels, which you can find everywhere in Brazil. It is most often sold at cafés, where it’s eaten with espresso for breakfast while standing at a counter— though it can be found all day. Variations are said to be found in Bolivia, where they’re known as Cuñapé, and in Paraguay and Northern Argentina where they’re known as Chipás.

What it is: In Portuguese Pão de Queijo means ‘cheese bread.’ Bread isn’t quite accurate— gougère or cheese profiterole is more apt. Basically, it’s a domed cheese puff one to three inches wide, made using Povilho Azedo, cassava flour (tapioca starch) usually with Queijo de Minas cheese inside. Origins are murky, but it’s thought to have been created by slaves who harvested the yucca crops and gathered the starch leftover after processing. Starch was rolled into balls and baked. Later, when cattle-farming became widespread, cheese was introduced. One Brazilian chain that specializes in it, Casa do Pão de Queijo (founded in 1967 in São Paulo), attributes it to the 18th century in the state of Minas Gerais, a region in the Southeast of Brazil, a little less than 300 miles from Rio.

How it’s made: Recipes vary, but generally, milk, oil and butter are first mixed over heat. Then tapioca flour, eggs and cheese are added. After the mixture cools, balls of dough are formed and cooked for about twenty minutes. The combination of tapioca starch and cheese creates a slightly gummy, chewy consistency inside, like a palatable rubber cement. When done right, they are crisp on the outside and light, airy, warm and slightly chewy on the inside with full, cheesy flavor. One of Brazil’s best places for pão de queijo is in São Paulo— Pão de Queijo Haddock Lobo —a little shop in a neighborhood called Jardins Paulista.

Where to get it in New York: There are pockets of Brazilian restaurants downtown (like Casa and Cafe La Palette in the West Village, and one place in the East Village, Esperanto) that serve pão de queijo, as well as a few in Midtown (Emporium Brasil) on what’s left of Little Brazil on 46th Street (“Little Brazil Street”) and also in Newark, and Astoria, Queens.

One AlwaysHungryNY.com favorite spot for pão is New York Pão de Queijo (right), a small café in Astoria. It has other treats including açai na tigela and a bevy of Brazilian fruit juices. Fair warning: once you’ve eaten one, it’s difficult to stop.

AlwaysLearning: Welsh Rarebit

The Gluttoness — September 03, 2009

Welsh Rarebit from The ChipShop on Atlantic Avenue, in Brooklyn Heights.

Welsh Rarebit. If you just heard the name, you would probably expect a plate filled with some kind of rare meat. The reality couldn’t be farther from that. In honor of National Welsh Rarebit Day…

What it is: Welsh Rarebit consists of toasted bread topped with a savory sauce made with melted cheese. The sauce is typically made with Cheddar cheese, although some recipes call for the addition of dark beer, mustard, cayenne pepper and/or Worcestershire Sauce. The cheese-covered bread is then broiled and served very hot so that the cheese is bubbling and golden brown. There are many variations of the original dish. One, the Buck Rarebit, calls for topping Welsh Rarebit with a poached egg.

Where it’s from: This traditional British dish dates to the 18th century, perhaps as early as 1725. The name is thought to be a corruption of the word, ‘rabbit,’ the theory being that rabbit was the food of the poor and that the Welsh, who were notoriously poor, couldn’t even afford that. As such, instead of eating meat with bread, cheese became the ‘meat’ component of the dish. In 1785, by virtue of a misnomer in A Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue, the name of the dish evolved into “Welsh Rarebit.”

Where to eat it in New York City: Where better to enjoy a classic British dish than surrounded by maps of the Tube, Beatles posters, and plates commemorating Princess Diana in one of New York’s most traditional British gastropubs, The ChipShop (Brooklyn Heights restaurant page, Park Slope restaurant page). The restaurant is best known for a lengthy list of beers-on-tap and deep-fried treatments of pizza, Twinkies and Haddock (for a phenomenal Fish & Chips). But their “English Menu” is full of other British favorites like Scotch Eggs, Haggis, and of course, Welsh Rarebit.

The ChipShop’s glossary defines Welsh Rarebit as “cheddar cheese, heavy cream and mustard on bread and baked—served with tomato.” The folks there identified the mustard as Colman’s and noted that eggs are also used in the sauce. At the restaurant, the slice of thick, crisp white bread arrives browned and bubbling, adorned with a halved slice of tomato. It’s part open-faced grilled cheese, part Croque Monsieur (minus the ham). It’s like a savory, cheesy French Toast. The exterior crust has a hearty crunch, but the heavy dressing of cheese sauce soaks the bread’s innards and oozes from the sliced center.

Welsh Rarebit is comfort food at its finest. It’s no surprise that this decadent dish was a food staple eaten by the poor as it definitely helps you to escape from your financial burdens, at least momentarily, even longer when accompanied by a cool pint.

HungryHamptons: Briermere Farms (Riverhead, Long Island)

The Gluttoness — August 28, 2009

Clockwise, from top left: Briermere Farms’ pie menu, Pies, more pies and cookies.

Restaurant: Briermere Farms (view site)
Address: 4414 Sound Ave., Riverhead, NY 11901 (view map)
Grade: A-
Recommended Dishes: Fresh Blueberry Cream and Apple Crisp Pies
Hours: Mon-Thu 9am-5pm; Fri-Sun 9am-5:30pm

Everyone has their favorite Hamptons farm stand, but when it comes to fruit pies, everyone’s favorite is Briermere Farms. It looks like any other on-site greenmarket, but the outdoor display of tomatoes, sweet plums and snap peas isn’t why pie lovers rush to Riverhead. Rather, it’s the tiny indoor bakery that brims with homemade fruit pies, cakes, cookies and freshly baked breads. The seasonal pie list features classic fillings like Peach, Cherry and Pumpkin (come fall), and of course, the fruit is all from their own farm. Briermere also creates clever combinations like Blackberry Apple and features less frequently used fruits like Boysenberry and Apricot.

Briermere Farms’ fresh Blueberry Cream Pie, $28.

Briermere is particularly well known for its cream pies, which can be topped with either apricot-glazed fresh fruit or cooked fruit pie filling. The bottom is lined with a buttery crust and a delectable, smooth whipped cream cheese base. On the weekends, specials like Lemon Meringue, Coconut Cream and Chocolate Cream rarely last until the 5:30pm closing time. The fresh Blueberry Cream Pie is out of this world. The mountainous arrangement of sweet sapphires is impressive enough, but it’s the simple trifecta of flaky crust, fruit and billowy cream that is simultaneously rich and refreshing.

Fresh Blueberry Cream and Apple Crisp Pies.

Briermere’s other standout is the Apple Crisp Pie ($16), the only pie given the “crisp” treatment, an atypical one at that. It’s covered completely with a crust onto which the crisp is adhered. The result is an exorbitantly crunchy coating. Once you break through the covering, the freshly caramelized apples spiced with brown sugar and cinnamon ooze out decadently. It’s legitimately one of the best apple pies ever, making Briermere a mandatory stop on any summer trek out east.

Featured Dish: Gambas Com Acorda at Pão!

The Gluttoness — August 11, 2009

Gambas com Acorda at Pão!

Pão! co-owner, Frank Coelho, a native of Portugual, didn’t set out to reinvent the Portuguese culinary wheel, just recreate it on a quiet corner in SoHo. His regulars, many of whom are Portuguese and looking for a taste of home, rely on this quaint eatery at Spring and Greenwich for authentic Portuguese fare. Specialties at Pão! (restaurant page) include Caldo Verde, a kale-based soup with potato and linguica (mild Portuguese pork sausage) and Bacalhau and Braz, traditional sautéed cod with egg, onion and straw potatoes.

Pão means “bread” in Portuguese so it shouldn’t be a surprise that bread is a prominent ingredient in one of its signature dishes, Gambas com Acorda, Grilled Tiger Shrimp with Lemon Shellfish Bread Pudding. The beautiful, monochromatic dish features six juicy, butterflied tiger shrimp, which are practically bursting from their glistening orange shells to kiss the lemon-rosemary cream sauce dressing the plate. The shrimp tails are anchored in a mound of savory shellfish bread pudding that is riddled with bits of shrimp, scallop, clams and mussels. The pudding is made from the same broa de milho (wheat and corn bread) that adorns every table.

Gambas com Acorda is much like an Iberian shrimp and grits, with the warm bread pudding offering a smoother sensation than grits. The firm flesh of the shrimp complements the silky texture of the pudding, and the tangy lemon sauce balances its richness. The dish is perfectly paired with a crisp glass of vinho verde, a bright, clean, slightly carbonated ‘green wine’ made from unripe grapes.

AlwaysInvestigating: More to a Mozzarella Sandwich than Meets the Eye

The Gluttoness — August 06, 2009

Ordering a cold cheese sandwich has never been a compelling option. Not grilled cheese sandwiches— those have a time and place (with tomato and bacon)— we’re talking sandwiches that recall Wonder Bread and Kraft Singles. But when a sandwich is assembled with divine mozzarella and freshly-baked bread the result can be sensational. Take Porchetta’s Mozzarella Cheese Sandwich, which opened our eyes to the genre’s potential. It won’t dethrone the Porchetta Sandwich as Porchetta’s best item, but it inspired us to find other good renditions.

Clockwise from top left: Porchetta’s Mozzarella Sandwich ($7), Sanpanino’s Fresh Mozzarella Sandwich ($6.50), Defonte’s Fresh Mozzarella Sandwich ($8.50) & Farinella’s Caprese Panini ($9.25)

Porchetta (restaurant page) Fresh Di Palo Mozzarella in a Sullivan Street ciabatta roll, lacquered with olive oil and topped with sun-dried tomatoes and caper-herb tapenade. It’s love at first bite.

Sanpanino (restaurant page) The owner, Leonardo Scarpone said this means “Saint of the Sandwich” in Italian and Sanpanino tries to set a divine example by making their own mozzarella. Firm rounds of cheese, plum tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil are served on golden, fluffy focaccia (from Royal Crown, Staten Island) whose saltiness gently seasons each component. While the restaurant’s name also implies pressed sandwiches, “Lenny” recommends eating them cold to appreciate the ingredients.

Defonte’s of Brooklyn (restaurant page) Their surprisingly mild mozzarella is also made in-house, and it’s piled high with just a few tomato slices. The garlic bread is like an exceptionally crusty, double-wide French baguette garnished with burnt garlic bits and brushed with basil-flecked olive oil. The abundant mozzarella is well-matched with the hearty bread, which stands out but doesn’t undermine the authority of the cheese.

Farinella (restaurant page) Of this selection, Farinella’s Caprese Panini is king. The housemade focaccia is a standout in it’s own right— thin, crisp and salty. But it’s the oozing, slightly sour buffalo’s milk mozzarella that Alberto Polo Cretara imports from Naples, which is unparalleled by the other sandwiches. The creamy slices are amply dressed with fresh basil, lettuce and tomato, and milk drips like jus while you eat. A cheese sandwich has never been so satisfying.

AlwaysTraveling: White House Sub Shop

The Gluttoness — August 03, 2009

The White House Special (Extra Salami, Provolone, Ham and Cappicola).

When it comes to submarine sandwiches, the White House Sub Shop in Atlantic City, NJ is boss. Sure, you can go to Sack O’Subs in Ventnor City or Dino’s Subs and Pizza Shop in Margate City, NJ, but when you’re craving a Chicken CheeseSteak, nothing beats the White House. In fact, no trip to Atlantic City is really complete without pre- or postgaming it at this institution. The small corner shop is on Arctic Ave., within walking distance of the Tropicana, and is marked by the giant neon sign with a 6-foot long sub between the words, “White House,” and “Home of Submarines.”

Restaurant: White House Sub Shop
Address: 2301 Arctic Ave, Atlantic City, NJ (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A-
AlwaysHungry Recommends: “White House Special,” Capicola & Provolone Sub, Chicken Cheese Steak, Tuna Sub

By your turn, know what you want. Guys behind the counter, though friendly, don’t suffer fools lightly.

As everyone knows, bread is the foundation of any good sandwich. The folks at the White House have been doing this since 1946— they know good bread. Their high quality rolls are made by the Formica Brothers Italian Bakery— it’s no small reason for the shop’s success. The owners have proudly displayed “Bread Facts” around the restaurant (all natural, no fat, no sugar).

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AlwaysTraveling: La Bague de Kenza (Paris, France)

Michelle Kiefer — July 23, 2009

Assorted pastries at La Bague de Kenza in the 11th Arrondissement, Paris

Pastries are a must-eat when visiting Paris— there is no better place to indulge in classics like macarons, tarts and éclairs. But stopping into the Algerian pâtisserie, La Bague de Kenza in the 11th Arondissement, reveals a side of Parisian cuisine not readily found in every guidebook.This now trendy part of town still maintains its lively and multi-cultural feel, making La Bague de Kenza an exciting detour from the more touristed Parisian streets.

Restaurant: La Bague de Kenza (view site)
Address: 106 Rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris, France (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Ghribia, Cravatte de Pistache, Makrout, Dziriate, Mhajeb, Kesra

The shop is a wonderland of colors. Counters are filled with towering platters of small pastries in myriad shapes and designs. Each cookie and cake creation is an intricately detailed work of art. These are nut and honey-based treats that will surprise even the most devout pastry-lovers.

Two standouts include Ghribia, a Hershey Kiss-shaped mound with a subtle sweetness that melts on your tongue like the softest shortbread you can imagine, and the Cravatte Pistache, a crisp green spiral whose nut-sprinkled shell gives way to gooey pistachio filling. Other excellent choices include Makrout, a dense and crumbly cake made with dates and honey that puts Fig Newtons to shame, and the Dziriate, a delicately folded cup of pastry filled with almonds.

There is also a small counter featuring savory creations— an ideal way to balance all the sweets you’ll consume during your visit. The Mhajeb is an exceptional savory treat, a crêpe filled with cheese or vegetables. Even more addictive is Kesra, a dense, flatbread with a chewy center. Try to buy some of these wedges before they sell out or you may find yourself craving them at all hours.

There’s so much to choose from at La Bague de Kenza. Employees are happy to guide you with descriptions, but half the fun is in picking randomly. The truth is, all you really need to enjoy this unique pastry experience are a few French demonstrative pronouns – or just the ability to point and smile.

There are three other locations: 173 Rue du Faubourg, Saint-Antoine; 233 Rue de la Convention, Paris 15; 1 Avenue Charles de Gaulle, Savigny-sur-Orge (Essone)

Featured Dish: Dumpakht

Katie Reisert — July 20, 2009

Banjara’s Lamb Dumpakht

The white tableclothes and the comparatively large size of Banjara (restaurant page) make this Indian restaurant on the corner of 6th Street in the East Village stand out among the tiny curry houses of Curry Row. But it is Dumpakht (pronounced, Dumb-Paht), Banjara’s signature dish, which makes it stand out not just among Indian restaurants in New York City, but as one among a handful of establishments serving it across the country. According to the menu, Dumpakht is “a method of cooking by which the cooking vessel is sealed with pastry, resulting in a deliciously moist flavorful dish.”

“Dum” is said to mean steam and “dum pukht” has been translated to mean “to choke off the steam.” The dish’s origins are somewhat murky. According to one story, this style of cooking in India can be traced back to the 18th century when supposedly, a benevolent ruler ordered sealed containers of food to be kept on hand for laborers working on an epic project, thus spawning a style of cooking.

Some compare Dumpakht to chicken pot pie, but at Banjara, the presentation is much more impressive. A shallow copper pot is filled with meat braised in a cream-based, buttery stew that is sealed closed with naan that rises to form a dome two to three-inches in height. Banjara’s Dumpakht is available with lamb, chicken, shrimp or vegetables ($13.95-$19.95).

Steam rises from the colorful stew as you tear open the bread. The sauce contains bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cashews, almonds and a subtle hint of curry— but the taste is more sweet and creamy than intensely spicy. The cooking method results in perfectly tender meat, which has been cooking in its own juices. The highlight of the dish is that it’s self-contained —there’s no need to order extra naan to wipe up the excess delicious sauce as you finish.

Featured Dish: Belcourt’s Pane Frattau

The Hungry Goat — July 06, 2009

Poached eggs are an unequivocal favorite among brunch-goers, but common renditions like Eggs Benedict and Eggs Florentine can get old. Fortunately, the East Village brunch hotspot, Belcourt (restaurant page), is reviving a classic Sardinian dish with poached eggs called, Pani Frattau.

Belcourt’s menu is studded with familiar, well-executed brunch staples like Vanilla and Bourbon French Toast, Shirred Eggs and Buttermilk Biscuits with Fruit Preserves, making the description of Pani Frattau —known more commonly as Pane Frattau— stand out all the more: “music-paper bread lasagna with house made ricotta, crème fraîche, parmesan and poached eggs.”

As it turns out, music-paper bread, more commonly referred to as “carasau bread,” is merely a toasted durum wheat flatbread historically popular among Sardinian shepherds. This simple peasant bread, whose whimsical name is derived from its appearance, is used in several Sardinian dishes. In Pane Frattau it’s the base for a kind of rustic, deconstructed breakfast lasagna. Traditionally, it’s made by softening the bread in hot water then topping it with tomato sauce, grated pecorino cheese and a poached egg. Belcourt’s surprisingly light rendition adds ricotta and crème fraîche, which when combined with the silky poached egg, acts as the perfect contrast to the bread’s still-crisp outer edges.