AlwaysTraveling: Maria’s Pastry (Boston, MA)

Michelle Kiefer — January 08, 2010

A chocolate-laced cannoli at Maria’s Pastry in Boston’s North End.

Location: Maria’s Pastry
Address: 46 Cross Street, Boston, MA (map)
Contact: (617)523-1196
Hours: Daily, 7:00am-7:00pm
Grade: A
Always Hungy Recommends: Cannolis

Everyone knows that Mike’s Pastry and Modern Pastry are the places to go for cannolis in Boston’s North End. That’s precisely the problem. Sure, there’s some charm to squeezing into one of the tables between the two massive lines of customers (the Chocolate-Covered Chocolate Chip Cannoli at Mike’s is worth a visit). But there are few things more exhilarating when traveling than finding that no-fuss, authentic joint that locals know as their best-kept secret. That’s Maria’s Pastry.

As with Modern, Maria’s cannolis are filled upon ordering, but with the added benefit of losing most tourists. Located off Hanover Street, the North End’s main drag, Maria’s has all the claims of authenticity (family-run and operated since 1982, traditional Italian recipes), but it possesses a refreshing atmosphere. The place has a “take-it-or-leave-it” vibe. There’s fluorescent lighting, a cat wanders around, and during one visit a customer got chided for complaining about the mini pizzas.

Once you order from behind the counter and sit down, they pretty much forget about you, which is a good thing considering you’re not going to want to be distracted. The cannoli has a crunchy, but not overly brittle outer shell filled with a soft, not-too-sweet and incredibly fresh-tasting ricotta cream that rivals anything found at the more populated pastry destinations.

AlwaysTraveling: O Ya (Boston, MA)

Zach Aarons — August 21, 2009

Bottom left, Hamachi Nigiri with Spicy Banana Pepper Mousse. Right, Warm Eel with Thai Basil, Kabayaki, and Fresh Kyoto Sansho.

Restaurant: O Ya (view site)
Address: 9 East Street, Boston, MA‎, 02111 (view map)
AlwaysHungry Grade: A+
AlwaysHungry Recommends: Foie Gras Nigiri, Fried Kumamoto Oyster Nigiri, La Ratte Potato Chip Nigiri, House Smoked Wagyu Nigiri

In 2008, The New York Times’ restaurant critic, Frank Bruni, put O Ya at the top of his list of the “country’s best new restaurants.” The following year, Boston Magazine named it “Best of Boston 2009, General Excellence.” More accolades followed. Most importantly though, Jeff suggested that I go there, so I recently visited to see if O Ya could dispel my skepticism about Boston’s culinary scene.

O Ya is pleasant and unpretentious. The menu is divided into two sections. The front features nigiri and sashimi, while the back includes vegetables, meats, salads, soups, and several interestingly named categories: ‘truffles & eggs,’ ‘other stuff,’ and ‘something crunchy in it.’

We ordered omakase, which focused on the nigiri and sashimi. It began with oysters— one of two prominent appearances of this ingredient that seemed strategically timed. Though both dishes featured Kumamoto oysters, they could not have been more different. The first was a summery dish that opened up the palate with bright, delightful flavors: Fresh Kumamoto Oyster coupled with Watermelon pearls and Cucumber Mignonette.

At the meal’s midpoint, just as the memory of the fresh oyster began to fade, the evening’s best dish arrived, Fried Kumamoto Oyster with Yuzu Kosho Aioli and Squid Ink Bubbles. The fried oyster was light and fluffy, but possessed dark, savory flavors. Its squid ink bubbles paired elements of traditional Japanese cooking, avant-garde gastronomic technique, and good old New England-style seafood. The oyster was a masterpiece that melted away mellifluously. It was unlike any oyster I have ever tasted.

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36 Dishes in Boston, MA

Arthur Bovino — August 10, 2009

In The New York Times weekly column, 36 Hours, a weekend-long itinerary is given for different cities. AlwaysHungryNY.com, is taking a more culinary-focused, food-challenge approach to weekend travel with a new, occasional feature, 36 Dishes. The goal? To eat and drink a combination of 36 memorable dishes and beverages from significant places in a city during one weekend.

Left, Boston from Top of the Hub bar in the Prudential Building. Right, the Tall Ships in Boston Harbor

Today’s feature is a recap of 36 Dishes eaten in Boston over the weekend of July 10-12, when AlwaysHungryNY.com ate everywhere from the South End to Harvard Square. Our weekend of eating began on Friday night at 10:50pm, ten minutes before the Radius kitchen closes.

Click to see all 36 Dishes in Boston, MA. >>

AlwaysPartying: Joe & Mario’s 4th Annual Wine & Swine

Jeff Zalaznick — May 12, 2009

from left to right, Cesare Casella, Billy Gallagher, Mario Batali & Dave Gallagher slicing up the Whole Roasted Pig

Yesterday, Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali hosted their 4th Annual Springtime Wine & Swine event, at the Bastianich home in Greenwich. In addition to Mario, Michael Schlow (Radius), Cesare Casella (Salumeria Rosi), William Gallagher (Becco), Dave Pasternack (Esca), Fortunato Nicotra (Felidia), and Andy Nusser (Casa Mono & Tarry Lodge) were all making it happen in the kitchen.

The surprise guest was Schlow, who was in from Boston making his award-winning Radius Burger. Topped with cheddar, horseradish mayo and fried onions, this is unquestionably one of the finest burgers in the world. Pasternack’s Balsamic Octopus is also a gift to humanity, as it truly defines what tender octopus should taste like. The Ribeye was immaculately tender and served perfectly rare. The Pig, cooked overnight and served whole, was a revelation as well. The party was phenomenal—the weather was beautiful, the band was rocking, and excellent Wine and Swine was served all-around. Perfect Monday.

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Always Traveling: Boston’s Best Chowdah

Spencer Gellman — March 12, 2009

It started with one of those ridiculous Yahoo! Homepage teaser articles. You know the ones that usually talk about a dog who can bark the alphabet or an Icelandic woman who gave birth to her fifth set of octuplets. And while those articles are typically easily hurdled roadblocks between me and my fantasy football team, this one actually reached right through my heart strings and went straight for the decision making epicenter of my being…my stomach.

The article, entitled “It’s the Best Burger in America!,” described how the (read: horribly overrated) Shake Shack was dethroned at the 2008 South Beach Wine & Food Festival by some gourmet monstrosity hailing from Beantown known only as the Radius Burger. Intrigued and mildly aroused by the findings, I had no choice but to pile into my parent’s Toyota hybrid and go see for myself if this French Bistro known for their Duck Egg atop leeks could really bring the ruckus to the American classic.

Of course, to go all the way up to Boston just for a burger would be a perfectly good waste of time, effort and potential calories. If I was going to do this trip the AlwaysHungry way, which is pretty much how I do everything from brushing my teeth to petting my dog, I was going to make sure I checked a few more boxes off my culinary bucket list. Being in Boston, I figured there was no better objective than to figure out once and for all which local eatery yielded the best New England Clam Chowder.

After a solid 3 minutes of Googling, I compiled a list of 5 establishments in Paul Revere’s hometown that were said to have the crème de la crème of this creamy soup: The Union Oyster House, Legal Sea Foods, The Barking Crab, McCormick & Schmick’s, The Salty Dog Seafood Grill & Bar and Houston’s (yes, that Houston’s). With my food itinerary in hand, and a fresh domestic beer induced hangover in my head, I set out, determined to try at least a cup of clam chowder from each of the celebrated establishments.

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The Round-Up: NYT’s 10 Best New Restaurants in the U.S.

June 27, 2008

Taking a pause from “making or breaking” the success of restaurants and chefs in New York City, Frank Bruni has canvased the country’s culinary landscape and found what he considers to be the top ten best new restaurants in the U.S excluding NYC. (2/27)

Central Michel Richard (Washington)

Cochon (New Orleans)

Coi (San Francisco)

Fearing’s (Dallas)

Fraiche (Culver City, CA)

Guy Savoy (Las Vegas)

Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink (Miami)

O Ya (Boston)

Tilth (Seattle)

Ubuntu (Napa, CA)