AlwaysInvestigating: More to a Mozzarella Sandwich than Meets the Eye
The Gluttoness — August 06, 2009
Ordering a cold cheese sandwich has never been a compelling option. Not grilled cheese sandwiches— those have a time and place (with tomato and bacon)— we’re talking sandwiches that recall Wonder Bread and Kraft Singles. But when a sandwich is assembled with divine mozzarella and freshly-baked bread the result can be sensational. Take Porchetta’s Mozzarella Cheese Sandwich, which opened our eyes to the genre’s potential. It won’t dethrone the Porchetta Sandwich as Porchetta’s best item, but it inspired us to find other good renditions.
Clockwise from top left: Porchetta’s Mozzarella Sandwich ($7), Sanpanino’s Fresh Mozzarella Sandwich ($6.50), Defonte’s Fresh Mozzarella Sandwich ($8.50) & Farinella’s Caprese Panini ($9.25)
Porchetta (restaurant page) Fresh Di Palo Mozzarella in a Sullivan Street ciabatta roll, lacquered with olive oil and topped with sun-dried tomatoes and caper-herb tapenade. It’s love at first bite.
Sanpanino (restaurant page) The owner, Leonardo Scarpone said this means “Saint of the Sandwich” in Italian and Sanpanino tries to set a divine example by making their own mozzarella. Firm rounds of cheese, plum tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil are served on golden, fluffy focaccia (from Royal Crown, Staten Island) whose saltiness gently seasons each component. While the restaurant’s name also implies pressed sandwiches, “Lenny” recommends eating them cold to appreciate the ingredients.
Defonte’s of Brooklyn (restaurant page) Their surprisingly mild mozzarella is also made in-house, and it’s piled high with just a few tomato slices. The garlic bread is like an exceptionally crusty, double-wide French baguette garnished with burnt garlic bits and brushed with basil-flecked olive oil. The abundant mozzarella is well-matched with the hearty bread, which stands out but doesn’t undermine the authority of the cheese.
Farinella (restaurant page) Of this selection, Farinella’s Caprese Panini is king. The housemade focaccia is a standout in it’s own right— thin, crisp and salty. But it’s the oozing, slightly sour buffalo’s milk mozzarella that Alberto Polo Cretara imports from Naples, which is unparalleled by the other sandwiches. The creamy slices are amply dressed with fresh basil, lettuce and tomato, and milk drips like jus while you eat. A cheese sandwich has never been so satisfying.
AlwaysLearning: Pan Bagnat
Michelle Kiefer — July 30, 2009
Pan Bagnat, a different way to eat a classic dish, Salade Niçoise, in sandwich form.
What it is: Pan Bagnat is a sandwich made with raw vegetables, tuna, and olive oil. Though there are several variations, the official recipe (see site) calls for bread filled with: tomatoes, green peppers, spring onions, fava beans, black olives, tuna, olive oil, basil, salt and pepper. Other acceptable ingredients are hard-boiled eggs, artichoke hearts, radish, anchovies, onions, and garlic. Right, Pan Bagnat from Bistro Cassis.
Where it’s from: Nice, France. Along with Ratatouille and Salade Niçoise, Pan Bagnat is a notable character in Niçoise cuisine. It means “wet” or “bathed” bread.
An association called La Commune Libre du Pan Bagnat was created “for the defense and promotion of Pan Bagnat.” For a mere $45, you can even become a Citizen of Honor and receive a sticker, certificate, and card that confirm your support of this culinary tradition. As if that isn’t enough evidence of an ardent love for this sandwich, Niçoise shopkeepers created a giant Pan Bagnat as part of a summer food celebration last August. This 40 meter-long (131 feet) sandwich required the use of 400 tomatoes.
Where to get it in New York: Bistro Cassis (restaurant page), and Nice Matin both serve a rendition of Pan Bagnat on their lunch and brunch menus. Using these recipes, the right vegetables and some crusty bread, you could also try your hand at making Pan Bagnat. Vegetarians who consider omitting the tuna should be warned that they are considered a scourge by the mayor of Nice. He was quoted as saying that the Pan Bagnat “has too often suffered attacks that have distorted it to make a type of vegetarian sandwich.”
AlwaysFresh: TriBeCa Greenmarket (7/29)
Michelle Kiefer — July 29, 2009
The AlwaysHungryNY.com Team is hitting the streets and heading to farmers markets throughout the city to scope out the fresh, seasonal ingredients that are inspiring the culinary genius of locavore chefs and amateur gourmets alike.
This week, we were in TriBeCa at the TriBeCa Greenmarket. Click on the thumbnails below to see pictures from our farmers’ market tour. Remember, you can always use AlwaysHungryNY.com’s Seasonal Calendar Page to find out more about the foods that are currently in season.
AlwaysPartying: National Creative Ice Cream Flavor Day
Katie Reisert — July 01, 2009
Left: Ginger and Red Bean. Center: Peanut Butter & Jelly, Merlot and Grass. Right: Basil.
Happy National Creative Ice Cream Flavor Day! From Momofuku Milk Bar & Bakery’s Rosemary soft serve and Il Labratorio del Gelato’s Thai Chili Chocolate, to The Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory’s Wasabi and Shake Shack’s Coffee and Donuts frozen custard, tons of creative ice cream flavors are being churned out in the city. To celebrate, we sought out some.
Click here to read about some of New York City's most creative ice cream flavors >>
AlwaysInvestigating: Pizza D.O.C.
Lina Mark — March 17, 2009
New Yorkers are passionate about the definition of true ‘New York Pizza,’ but it does not compare to the Neapolitans’ obsession with, and pride over, their beloved creation. In 1984, the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (True Neapolitan Pizza Association) established strict guidelines for what is considered a true Neapolitan pie. In order to control the origins and protect its reputation, only the most authentic pizza is granted the status of D.O.C. (‘Denominazione di Origine Controllata,’ meaning, Controlled Denomination of Origin).
To be recognized as such, all ingredients must be fresh, and all natural, including San Marzano tomatoes, and Bufala Mozzarella or Fior di Latte (a mozzarella-like cheese made from cow’s milk rather than milk from water buffalo). The dough must be made with only “00” flour, water, yeast, and salt. The pizza can be no wider than 12 inches in diameter and it must be baked in a wood-burning oven at about 800 degrees for no longer than 90 seconds.
In an awesome example of “practice what your preach”, the American-chapter president of the Associazone Pizzaiouli Napoletana is taking perfect pizza-making into his own hands. March 23rd marks the prospective debut of Roberto Caporuscio’s Kesté on Bleecker Street. While Kesté‘s pies are hotly-anticipated, will they really be significantly better than any of Manhattan’s others D.O.C.-approved eateries? You’ve got a few weeks before the first pie is served, so in the meantime, check out these AlwaysHungryNY-approved pizza shops, that have the distinction of D.O.C.:
3. L’asso
6. Peasant
How To: Homemade Canned Tomatoes
Zak Williams — October 01, 2008
It is almost time to say goodbye to tomatoes. Soon the BLT will no longer be offered on ‘wichcraft’s menu and heirloom tomato salads will start coming down off the specials board. If you cannot let go of the fresh flavor though, there is a way to keep it going through the year. If you ever wondered how they keep that market fresh tomato flavor in their sauces in Italy, here is the answer.
Last week, I took some time to catch up with family in New Haven during our annual tomato-canning session. My great great aunt hails from just outside of Naples in a small town called Casserta, and her little tomato garden produces enough tomatoes and basil to make about 10 gallons of “canned” tomatoes.
1. Clean and drain a large batch of fresh tomatoes (any variety will do, though we prefer plum).
2. Remove the stem and surrounding area using either a knife, your hands, or a corer. Then, using your hands, tear each tomato apart to drain some of the water and remove a few seeds. Reserve this liquid.
Click Here To Continue Canning >>
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