AlwaysInvestigating: Sick of Tuna? Try Nicky’s Sardines

The Gluttoness — October 29, 2009

Nicky’s Sardine Banh Mi, $5.

The “Classic Vietnamese Sandwich” is the obvious order on any visit to Nicky’s Vietnamese Restaurant (view). It features pâté, Vietnamese ham and roasted ground pork beneath the customary banh mi garniture of slightly pickled carrot, cucumbers and cilantro. But recently, I was tempted by a Sardine Banh Mi, which I was surprised to see as one of the menu’s few alternatives. The proliferation of Asian fish sandwiches is evident at even the simplest establishments.

When I was young, my Grandfather made sardine sandwiches for me all the time. Considering my earlier days were marred by pain-in-the-ass eating habits (including three years of vegetarianism), I’m surprised now that I always accepted these canned fish sandwiches. Nicky’s rendition doesn’t include the tomato, onion and vinegar accoutrements of my childhood, but it still made for a nostalgic lunch.

Both sandwiches begin with toasted bread. But Nicky’s warm baguettes are far superior to my Grandfather’s sliced rye. They’re a worthy base for any great sandwich. The slathering of mayo instantly melts into the toasted roll’s soft underbelly. The oven-roasted sardines lose some of their natural oil, but the creamy bed of spicy mayonnaise moistens them. The combined flavors taste much like your typical, albeit spiced, tuna sandwich, although the hefty handful of cilantro and hearty vegetable crunch creates a distinctly Vietnamese profile. With a squirt of sriracha, the sardines’ mild fishiness disappears.

The Sardine Banh Mi is definitely different, and satisfying on its own, but ultimately, if you’re into heat and not averse to swine, then when it comes to grabbing banh mi at Nicky’s, nothing beats the classic.

AlwaysInvestigating: More to a Mozzarella Sandwich than Meets the Eye

The Gluttoness — August 06, 2009

Ordering a cold cheese sandwich has never been a compelling option. Not grilled cheese sandwiches— those have a time and place (with tomato and bacon)— we’re talking sandwiches that recall Wonder Bread and Kraft Singles. But when a sandwich is assembled with divine mozzarella and freshly-baked bread the result can be sensational. Take Porchetta’s Mozzarella Cheese Sandwich, which opened our eyes to the genre’s potential. It won’t dethrone the Porchetta Sandwich as Porchetta’s best item, but it inspired us to find other good renditions.

Clockwise from top left: Porchetta’s Mozzarella Sandwich ($7), Sanpanino’s Fresh Mozzarella Sandwich ($6.50), Defonte’s Fresh Mozzarella Sandwich ($8.50) & Farinella’s Caprese Panini ($9.25)

Porchetta (restaurant page) Fresh Di Palo Mozzarella in a Sullivan Street ciabatta roll, lacquered with olive oil and topped with sun-dried tomatoes and caper-herb tapenade. It’s love at first bite.

Sanpanino (restaurant page) The owner, Leonardo Scarpone said this means “Saint of the Sandwich” in Italian and Sanpanino tries to set a divine example by making their own mozzarella. Firm rounds of cheese, plum tomatoes, fresh basil and olive oil are served on golden, fluffy focaccia (from Royal Crown, Staten Island) whose saltiness gently seasons each component. While the restaurant’s name also implies pressed sandwiches, “Lenny” recommends eating them cold to appreciate the ingredients.

Defonte’s of Brooklyn (restaurant page) Their surprisingly mild mozzarella is also made in-house, and it’s piled high with just a few tomato slices. The garlic bread is like an exceptionally crusty, double-wide French baguette garnished with burnt garlic bits and brushed with basil-flecked olive oil. The abundant mozzarella is well-matched with the hearty bread, which stands out but doesn’t undermine the authority of the cheese.

Farinella (restaurant page) Of this selection, Farinella’s Caprese Panini is king. The housemade focaccia is a standout in it’s own right— thin, crisp and salty. But it’s the oozing, slightly sour buffalo’s milk mozzarella that Alberto Polo Cretara imports from Naples, which is unparalleled by the other sandwiches. The creamy slices are amply dressed with fresh basil, lettuce and tomato, and milk drips like jus while you eat. A cheese sandwich has never been so satisfying.

FirstLook: SHO Shaun Hergatt

The Gluttoness — June 08, 2009

It’s rare that I’m speechless, but last Thursday night’s preview dinner at SHO Shaun Hergatt stunned me into my first satisfied oblivion of 2009. Executive Chef Sean Hergatt has spent two years turning the concrete canvas within The Setai New York into a modern Asian masterpiece with simple elegance and ruby red accents. An expansive glass wall separates diners from the theatrics of the grand kitchen and many of the tables face Hergatt’s “stage” where he commands his dutiful “players.” You witness meticulousness then taste it.

The striking décor is matched by the drama of SHO’s impeccable food, which the chef described as “Asian-accented, modern French cuisine.” Hergatt is a brawny Australian with a sweet smile—the unexpected artist behind brilliantly feminine dishes that are as artistically inclined as they are sophisticated in flavor. There’s a continual dance between delicacy and decadence. Riveting taste always wins, but it’s the manner in which it’s achieved that is so interesting.

Duo of Canapes: Crêpe w/ Tobiko & Sour Cream over Lime & Sesame Seed Tuille w/ Whitefish Tartare

Two velvety crêpes were filled with tobiko and sour cream, then tied in purses, served over thin slices of lime and topped with gold leaf. Two sesame seed tuilles were rolled like cigars and stuffed with whitefish tartare. There was an impressive equilibrium between the rich insides and the subtle exteriors.

Click here for AlwaysHungry's full First Look at Sho Shaun Hergatt >>